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Thanks
I called a mechanic and he says I should have just cleaned the filter in place, and not removed it. Does anyone know how I can fix this!? my car is stuck up on ramps and wont drive.
I was sure that all the electrical connections were still pluged in when I put the pan back on.
Please HELP!
First off... make sure you put enough fluid in it! If the fluid is very low, it will not build the hydraulic pressure needed to engage the gears. If the level shows fine, it may be that something is not aligned properly on the filter and the fluid is not able to flow through it as it should.
So when I took it in recently I had them replace front axles and CV boots, valve cover gaskets, crankshaft seal and timing belt. Now that these new parts were on, an intermittent clattering noise began to come from the trans. If I start it up, the engine is fine and has all power. Acceleration is fine and smooth. There's no bucking. There is still the old binding problem and high torque while in park. The mechanic mentioned something about having too high a pressure in the trans, and that it was throwing a code.
I drove it slowly a few times and the intermittent loud clatter eventually 'spun' and settled down into a light, constant clatter coming from the trans.
1) Is it possible that the front axles which went bad were over-stressed by the binding problem?
2) Is it possible that the valve cover gaskets and crakshaft seals were worn out and leaking due to some over pressure caused by the trans?
3) If I baby it on level, low-speed, A-to-B streets, do I have a good hope the trans will last a while longer?
Repairing my own trans is quoted at $1800 minimum, so I'm wondering about a junkyard replacement trans.
4) What year and model range of Subaru trans will work on a 97 Outback AWD? Any horror stories about a junkyard trans replacement turning out to be crap?
Thank you!
As for 4, you should be able to use a 95 through 98 transmission in this car without any compatibility issues. There were some changes in 99, and I think those tend to be less reliable (based on empirical evidence), so you may want to keep your search capped at 98. It is always a gamble when you head to a junk yard. That said, I had 220,000 on my '96 Outback and were you to claim its transmission, I bet it would take you many more trouble-free miles. In other words, you never know but you should also pay accordingly.
I checked MA on 95 Legacy AWD auto ... Price range $200 - $400
My questions are: Does the low fluid make it not go into gear or drive? What fluid does it use? How much fluid? Is there any way to check whether the transmission is working or faulty? Are there any online Legacy transmission data/ manuals available in case I want to strip it down? Can I convert it easily to automatic?
I know it's a lot of questions but I am optimistic for an answer.
Thanks go to everyone who takes the time to look at my question.
Mark
Are you sure you want to do this? My Subaru is on order so this is generic info.
Clutch reference means its manual (stick).
If you can move the gear stick between gears without using the clutch and nothing happens (I assume engine running) it sounds like the the selector forks are shot, not good. It might just be adjustment, but more likely a gearbox rebuild is required.
I assume the clutch is hydraulic, if fluid levels are low, top them up (master cylinder) but its irrelevant, you say can hear something happening when you operate the clutch and the gears are not being selected.
Lack of fluid in a manual box can make it hard to select a gear - but above you say you can move gear stick and nothing happens - thats not a clutch fault, its a gearbox fault.
Can you convert to auto - basically no, its a major and $$ job - getting the manual will not be enough.
Are you sure you are describing the problem correctly? Clutches typically fail in the run mode or just slide like crazy. Depending on how the clutch failed, trying to move a (good) gearbox into gear without a clutch will make a lot of noise and maybe result in attempted movement. If failure mode was no drive then it is possible to stir the gearbox with no event.
Can you describe step by step what you doing and having nothing happen?
To replace the clutch you have to split engine and gearbox - sounds like you need to also consider having the gearbox checked or exchanged.
The clutch is not expensive, its the labor to part and mate engine and gearbox - you don't want to pay for that twice, and doing it yourself - you need help the first time.
I assume you had the vehicle towed - since as you described it does not run under its own power.
My trusted mechanic checked it out and said I need a transmission rebuild. About $ 1850. + installation, clutch, bearing, fork and main seal while he's in there. Totaling about $3500.
Does that price sound right? He said the rebuild would not be more than that and probably lower but the rebuild shop wont know until they open it up.
My first thought was to sell the car if I can, it has 147,000miles and use the cash for a down payment on a newer model. I would be lucky to get 4-5k on trade in I think. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
cfj1
I think the trade may be better - but you need to do the calculation. .
Based on discussions with two dealers and a transmission shop, the vehicle should not have this issue at such low mileage. I getting a range of repair estimates of $1,400 (simple torque converter replacement) up to nearly $4,000 (subaru remanufactured trans with 12mo/12,000 mile warranty).
I'm trying to handicap the likelihood of coming in at either end of the range above.
(By the way Subaru America is unwilling to help since outside of 5 yr/60,000 mile warranty and I cannot provide service records from a dealer.)
Thoughts, opinions sought. Blue book value $8000-$8500.
There have been reports of a delayed engagement that sounds like a first gear clutch issue, but this only happens the very first time shifted into first when cold, and doesn't repeat again until the next cold start.
The issue has occurred only when the car is 'cold' and from a stop. I have tried backing out of my drive, shifting to Drive and then feel it slip. I have stopped and re-started and felt the slip - each time the car has not really warmed up, perhaps running less than 5 minutes.
It is hard for me to tell what gear the car is in when the non-engagement / slippage happens. Given the duration of the slip and the speed (say 5-15, 17 mph) at which I have felt the slippage, I believe the car is in 2nd gear and possibly 3rd.
I had a mechanic put a box to the computer and gotten diagnostic codes P0732 and P0733, which, according to a Subaru manual, indicate incorrect gear ratios for 2nd and 3rd gear. He also took 2 pressure readings (don't know which) that were in the correct range.
Before spending big bucks, find some shop that has a tranny flush machine with solvents and give it a try. Sometimes it is as simple as varnish or dirt in the valve body that is causing a reduction in pressure on a band, allowing slippage.
I'll see what I can find.
This car had a Japanese replacement transmission installed two years ago ($1600) including a matching differential. It's only gone 16,000 miles since then. A month ago I noticed that tight turns were "binding" and stiff. Also, the "POWER" light in the instrument panel flashed when I turned on the ignition.
I took it to my mechanic (the one who installed the replacement tranny) and we counted the flashes so he could check the code. Sixteen flashes. He said it needed a solenoid (probably) and would be $350-400. No bigee except I replaced the starter 3 months ago ($220) and had the head gasket replaced last May ($1890).
I'm fairly mechanically inclined and willing to do the solenoid IF that's the problem. How doable is this surgery? Thanks!
It appears I'm going to have to have the transmission cracked open and potentially rebuilt.
Subaru of America has told me the company would not assist in the repair in spite of the low miles on the car / transmission because I do not have adequate service records (i.e. mileage-based recommended service at a Subaru dealer). Save the car having been in an accident shouldn't the transmission be rock solid at only 55,000 miles?
Any suggestions?
Thank you
To "disengage" the rear wheels, if the fuse is not doing the trick, you could disengage the hard link. That would simply involve removing the driveshaft linking the rear differential to the center differential and is a simple, quick job.
1ST shop told me they would need to drop the trans. in order to make a diagnosis.
They also told me that my car would not go into first gear.
When the guy told me this my response was " you didn't drive it without transmission fluid in it did you, remember that is why I had it TOWED, because it is leaking really, really bad?"
His reply was a pause.
I got scared and told him to hold off and I would call him back in a few minutes.
So the next day I called the 2ND shop to try to compare prices using the info from shop #1.
Shop #2 made me feel more confident in them so I had car towed from shop 1 to shop 2.
Shop 2 told me well no wonder shop 1 said it wouldn't go into 1ST gear, it was four quarts low in fluid. Shop 2 put fluid in and it shifts fine.
But...
my transmission would not leak for shop 2.
They tried but couldn't get it to leak, so I picked it up and drove it home and there was no leak.
Now about 100 miles later it is leaking like it was before.
It appears to only be leaking when it is turned on.
A constant drip.
The trail going down the road into my driveway has the drops spaced about 3/4 of an inch apart.
The filter and pan gasket had been replaced but that didn't change anything.
Any help/suggestions/ideas/comments are appreciated.
The two bolts are tight so I think the leak is coming from somewhere up above them.
I'm not sure what is up there that would leak and my Haynes manual doesn't show any pics.
I don't think that the gasket between the diff. and the trans. is leaking unless it is doing so from the top where I can't see it.
If it is this gasket, appx. how much is too much to pay to have it replaced?
Is this kind of gasket replacement something that can be done at home or is it best left to a trans. repair shop?
I mentioned before that it appears to only leak when the vehicle is running, I just want to add to this that it starts dripping as soon as the car starts. It doesn't need any time to warm up or anything. :confuse: :sick:
That is not too surprising, given that an automatic transmission works through hydraulic pressure. As soon as the engine is running, the system pressurizes. I would have to be more familiar with the way that housing is put together to be of any more use to you. If it is coming from the gasket area, that means the center/front differential is a sealed unit with the transmission housing attaching to the back of i, with automatic transmission fluid being in direct contact with the gasket area. If it is a single gasket, replacing it would involve fully separating the two units, probably after removing the entire transaxle from the car.
The leak may be varying in its intensity as result of small debris in the lubricant partially blocking it from time to time. Again, I am only speculating.
A member with the handle "girlcarbuilder" may be able to provide you with good advice on this one.
its not affected in forward. A mechanic told me its the sellanoids, there is 3 in the valve body, electrical problem, not uncommon. Can fix by pulling the pan down.
Your input is greatly appreciated.
I have a leak from the Gasket that goes in between the Transmission and the Differential.
Appx. what kind of price should I be expecting a transmission shop to charge to have this gasket replaced?
Could there be a reason why this gasket would have started leaking, besides it probably being the same age as the car?
Any info. provided is appreciated, I really need my car fixed but I don't want to get taken advantage of or be screwed over.
Thank You Everybody and Anybody!
Of course, the seal itself is probably a $20 part.... :sick:
I finally had my 97 fixed, my mechanic went by your inst. the car works like a charm. No more blinking, no more biding in rev. no lunging forward when shutting off the engine. works great. pj43
Just wondering if you or anyone else have been able to find some kind of solution to this problem. I'm not all that familiar with the operations of a transmission, but a coworker suggested that their may be some sort of hydraulic hose clogged or pinched that engages the transmission?? Any feedback is greatly appreciated!
Thank you!
John
I took it to a transmission place after a mechanic recommended I take it there since they couldn't figure it out. The guy at Aamco said after testing my car the transmission was slipping and that the fluid in the transmission had a burnt smell and was not the color it should be. He said that it would cost around $600 just to look at it and then another $1000 for the soft parts and labor to get it fixed; however he said he doesn't know exactly what in the transmission is the problem.
Being that the cost of the fixing is around 1/3 of the value of the subaru, is there anything else it could be or another solution to the issue so that I don't have to fork over that huge some of money? Any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated!