Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Subaru Legacy/Outback Transmission Problems

168101112

Comments

  • ashevilleianashevilleian Member Posts: 15
    So i think the last cheap thing i can do to fix whatever is happening with my subaru is change the spark plugs. My friend and i are going to do it and have found the correct plugs. Does anyone know what the torque should be for them? again, it's a 2007 subaru outback 2.5i.

    Thanks
  • ashevilleianashevilleian Member Posts: 15
    well, new spark plugs are in and the problem is still there so it's most likely the torque converter...sounds expensive
  • jasondpfjasondpf Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy outback, and I recently changed the transmission fluid, and filter... unfortunately for me, it now will not drive at all!!! :(

    I called a mechanic and he says I should have just cleaned the filter in place, and not removed it. Does anyone know how I can fix this!? my car is stuck up on ramps and wont drive.

    I was sure that all the electrical connections were still pluged in when I put the pan back on.

    Please HELP!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    So what is not working? Is the transmission just not engaging when you select a gear?

    First off... make sure you put enough fluid in it! If the fluid is very low, it will not build the hydraulic pressure needed to engage the gears. If the level shows fine, it may be that something is not aligned properly on the filter and the fluid is not able to flow through it as it should.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • pangeuspangeus Member Posts: 1
    1 year ago the trans started binding during tight turns. I adjusted my driving to avoid sharp turns. The engine/trans would also have a lot of torque when I put it into park to turn it off, and would lurch backward once that torque was shut off. I applied the brake before shutting it off so that lurch would not occur. I operated under hope that the trans would decline linearly over time rather than fail all at once.

    So when I took it in recently I had them replace front axles and CV boots, valve cover gaskets, crankshaft seal and timing belt. Now that these new parts were on, an intermittent clattering noise began to come from the trans. If I start it up, the engine is fine and has all power. Acceleration is fine and smooth. There's no bucking. There is still the old binding problem and high torque while in park. The mechanic mentioned something about having too high a pressure in the trans, and that it was throwing a code.

    I drove it slowly a few times and the intermittent loud clatter eventually 'spun' and settled down into a light, constant clatter coming from the trans.

    1) Is it possible that the front axles which went bad were over-stressed by the binding problem?
    2) Is it possible that the valve cover gaskets and crakshaft seals were worn out and leaking due to some over pressure caused by the trans?
    3) If I baby it on level, low-speed, A-to-B streets, do I have a good hope the trans will last a while longer?

    Repairing my own trans is quoted at $1800 minimum, so I'm wondering about a junkyard replacement trans.

    4) What year and model range of Subaru trans will work on a 97 Outback AWD? Any horror stories about a junkyard trans replacement turning out to be crap?

    Thank you!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    I would say no to points 1 and 2 above. For 3, I don't know. It sounds like it is nearing its end, to me. Have you changed out the transmission fluid to observe its condition?

    As for 4, you should be able to use a 95 through 98 transmission in this car without any compatibility issues. There were some changes in 99, and I think those tend to be less reliable (based on empirical evidence), so you may want to keep your search capped at 98. It is always a gamble when you head to a junk yard. That said, I had 220,000 on my '96 Outback and were you to claim its transmission, I bet it would take you many more trouble-free miles. In other words, you never know but you should also pay accordingly. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dlmracefansdlmracefans Member Posts: 2
  • dlmracefansdlmracefans Member Posts: 2
    Just picked up a 95 Legacy Wagon AWD at an auction, sold "as is" and when we pulled away to drive home, the car wouldn't shift into 2nd or 3rd gear on an automatic tranny. The engine revved up to 3500 rpm and just would not go over 35 mph. Any know if this is going to require a full transmission swap or do they make a tranny kit that might be an easier fix...don't want to stick a ton of money in it. Just needs to be able to get to and from work on a daily basis. Thanks for any advice.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    No idea, sorry, but paisan might know if he's around.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    if you want to locate a used tranny, you can visit www.car-parts.com

    I checked MA on 95 Legacy AWD auto ... Price range $200 - $400
  • rfloyd56rfloyd56 Member Posts: 1
    New posting, simular to ashevileian problem. mine is a 2003 Outback VDC, automatic, bought new. It has always had this problem. runs and shifts great, flatland. But when i go to the mountains, crusing 60mph, get to that point when it needs to downshift, it downshifts with a loud clunk and jerk. My fried says it sounded like the trany was going to fall out. I normally try to downshift myself and that goes smoother. I had taken to the dealership several times when i first bought it and they tried the rebooting, I believe they replaced a chip. Went to the mountains recently and it did it again. before I take it back would like to have an idea.
  • marquiessmarquiess Member Posts: 2
    I have just purchased a 1994 Legacy wagon that the owner told me needed a clutch. Now I haven't got that far as to look at the clutch just yet. My concern is that the transmission fluid level is very low. The vehicle can be put in any gear with the engine running and without the clutch and nothing happens. When I push the clutch down I can hear the pressure plate moving (maybe release bearing). The clutch obviously not doing anything.
    My questions are: Does the low fluid make it not go into gear or drive? What fluid does it use? How much fluid? Is there any way to check whether the transmission is working or faulty? Are there any online Legacy transmission data/ manuals available in case I want to strip it down? Can I convert it easily to automatic?
    I know it's a lot of questions but I am optimistic for an answer.
    Thanks go to everyone who takes the time to look at my question.
    Mark
  • wisalesmanwisalesman Member Posts: 10
    I just bought a new 2010 Legacy 3.6R Limited which I absolutely love. This is my first Subaru and this car rocks. I have on question regarding the transmission. When starting from a stop and turning either left or right it feels like the transmission is not smooth/slipping. This does not happen when going straight from a dead stop, so it may be the CV joint. Just wanted to know if anyone else has experienced the same thing and if it is just related to the Subaru. Thanks.
  • britgeezerbritgeezer Member Posts: 95
    Oh Boy,

    Are you sure you want to do this? My Subaru is on order so this is generic info.

    Clutch reference means its manual (stick).

    If you can move the gear stick between gears without using the clutch and nothing happens (I assume engine running) it sounds like the the selector forks are shot, not good. It might just be adjustment, but more likely a gearbox rebuild is required.

    I assume the clutch is hydraulic, if fluid levels are low, top them up (master cylinder) but its irrelevant, you say can hear something happening when you operate the clutch and the gears are not being selected.

    Lack of fluid in a manual box can make it hard to select a gear - but above you say you can move gear stick and nothing happens - thats not a clutch fault, its a gearbox fault.

    Can you convert to auto - basically no, its a major and $$ job - getting the manual will not be enough.

    Are you sure you are describing the problem correctly? Clutches typically fail in the run mode or just slide like crazy. Depending on how the clutch failed, trying to move a (good) gearbox into gear without a clutch will make a lot of noise and maybe result in attempted movement. If failure mode was no drive then it is possible to stir the gearbox with no event.

    Can you describe step by step what you doing and having nothing happen?

    To replace the clutch you have to split engine and gearbox - sounds like you need to also consider having the gearbox checked or exchanged.

    The clutch is not expensive, its the labor to part and mate engine and gearbox - you don't want to pay for that twice, and doing it yourself - you need help the first time.

    I assume you had the vehicle towed - since as you described it does not run under its own power.
  • legacy36rlegacy36r Member Posts: 2
    Hi jbaudet, I know your message is from 2007 but you are the only one I could find who may be having a similar problem. Does/did your car feel like it had a vibration/slip when turning left or right? This is what my car feels like and I am trying to see if I have a transmission issue or if this common to Subaru's. It does not give me this problem when going straight so I think this either a transmission issue or a bad CV joint.
  • marquiessmarquiess Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your advice.
  • cfj1cfj1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a noise coming from my tranny "like a gear tooth is chipped or missing". It changes with car speed in all gears, clutch in or out. No noise when stopped.

    My trusted mechanic checked it out and said I need a transmission rebuild. About $ 1850. + installation, clutch, bearing, fork and main seal while he's in there. Totaling about $3500.

    Does that price sound right? He said the rebuild would not be more than that and probably lower but the rebuild shop wont know until they open it up.

    My first thought was to sell the car if I can, it has 147,000miles and use the cash for a down payment on a newer model. I would be lucky to get 4-5k on trade in I think. Any thoughts?

    Thanks,

    cfj1
  • britgeezerbritgeezer Member Posts: 95
    Value if in prime condition for private sale with or without repair (after deducting repair costs), vs trade in.

    I think the trade may be better - but you need to do the calculation. .
  • aksubaruaksubaru Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2009 Subaru 2.5i I just bought and am having the same sensation during turns. My old 1999 outback was a standard, so I didn't have shifting issues.
  • mw94115mw94115 Member Posts: 4
    edited March 2010
    I have a 4-cylinder 2002 Outback with less than 55K miles (yes, that's right) and the transmission has begun slipping. It is most apparent on cool mornings (here in San Francisco that means in the 40s F) just after starting the engine. After putting car into drive and stepping on accelerator, the transmission engages then slips (best way i know how to describe at the moment) - the tachometer shoots up to 3500+rpm pulling out of my driveway.

    Based on discussions with two dealers and a transmission shop, the vehicle should not have this issue at such low mileage. I getting a range of repair estimates of $1,400 (simple torque converter replacement) up to nearly $4,000 (subaru remanufactured trans with 12mo/12,000 mile warranty).

    I'm trying to handicap the likelihood of coming in at either end of the range above.
    (By the way Subaru America is unwilling to help since outside of 5 yr/60,000 mile warranty and I cannot provide service records from a dealer.)

    Thoughts, opinions sought. Blue book value $8000-$8500.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Do you get this once it upshifts into 2nd gear, or is it only a first gear problem? Does it do this all the time from a stop (even when warmed up), or only the very first time you engage drive?

    There have been reports of a delayed engagement that sounds like a first gear clutch issue, but this only happens the very first time shifted into first when cold, and doesn't repeat again until the next cold start.
  • mw94115mw94115 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for your response.

    The issue has occurred only when the car is 'cold' and from a stop. I have tried backing out of my drive, shifting to Drive and then feel it slip. I have stopped and re-started and felt the slip - each time the car has not really warmed up, perhaps running less than 5 minutes.

    It is hard for me to tell what gear the car is in when the non-engagement / slippage happens. Given the duration of the slip and the speed (say 5-15, 17 mph) at which I have felt the slippage, I believe the car is in 2nd gear and possibly 3rd.

    I had a mechanic put a box to the computer and gotten diagnostic codes P0732 and P0733, which, according to a Subaru manual, indicate incorrect gear ratios for 2nd and 3rd gear. He also took 2 pressure readings (don't know which) that were in the correct range.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I just read thru theengine diagnostic table for P0732/33 on Page EN-480 of the 2002 shop manual, and it really doesn't help all that much. Just refers you to the tranny flow charts, and it sure gets complicated fast!

    Before spending big bucks, find some shop that has a tranny flush machine with solvents and give it a try. Sometimes it is as simple as varnish or dirt in the valve body that is causing a reduction in pressure on a band, allowing slippage.
  • mw94115mw94115 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for your time and effort.

    I'll see what I can find.
  • akakurtakakurt Member Posts: 1
    In reviewing other posts corresponding to my car's transmission problem I'm not sure if I can find one that matches the problem, so apologies if this is something that has been asked before.

    This car had a Japanese replacement transmission installed two years ago ($1600) including a matching differential. It's only gone 16,000 miles since then. A month ago I noticed that tight turns were "binding" and stiff. Also, the "POWER" light in the instrument panel flashed when I turned on the ignition.

    I took it to my mechanic (the one who installed the replacement tranny) and we counted the flashes so he could check the code. Sixteen flashes. He said it needed a solenoid (probably) and would be $350-400. No bigee except I replaced the starter 3 months ago ($220) and had the head gasket replaced last May ($1890).

    I'm fairly mechanically inclined and willing to do the solenoid IF that's the problem. How doable is this surgery? Thanks!
  • sadsubaruownersadsubaruowner Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    Has your problem been resolved regarding your 2002 Subaru Outback? I am having a similar issue with a 2003 Subaru Otback with 73,000 miles.
  • mw94115mw94115 Member Posts: 4
    No, I have not resolved the issue.
    It appears I'm going to have to have the transmission cracked open and potentially rebuilt.
    Subaru of America has told me the company would not assist in the repair in spite of the low miles on the car / transmission because I do not have adequate service records (i.e. mileage-based recommended service at a Subaru dealer). Save the car having been in an accident shouldn't the transmission be rock solid at only 55,000 miles?
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Were you able to find a shop with a good cocktail of solvents for flushing out a gunked up transmission? Did it help at all?
  • krookedmonsterkrookedmonster Member Posts: 1
    i just bought a 2000 legacy outback from a buddy. its got about 174K on it and I need a new transmission im prettty sure its shot. Any ideas where i can get a decently cheap trans??

    Any suggestions?
  • seedlessseedless Member Posts: 1
    Changed transmission fluid in my 1996 Subaru Legacy, draining old and refilling to the dose prescribed by the service manual. After completing fluid change, the transmission revs to 1500-2500 rpm before accelerating from a stop. Gears do not register properly.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Sounds like the fluid level may be low, requiring a "charging" phase in order to build up proper pressure. Have you checked the fluid level since the change to verify it is at the proper level?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • sparker3sparker3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Legacy outback 2.5L DOHC. Recently needed to replace the transmission and bought a used one, supposedly from Japan, from the supplier my mechanic recommended. The part number off the new transmission is TZ1A2ZAEAA-WX. It doesn't work after installation, and my mechanic says it acts like it is not able to communicate with the computer, suggesting maybe it is the wrong transmission. Original transmission number ended with JEBA. Supplier says it is the right transmission - numbers are different in Japan. I'm thinking of small claims court, assuming that it could be documented that it is not the right transmission for my car. Can anyone point me to a source where I can find out what it really fits? Help much appreciated, since I'm out a whole lot of money.
  • jbjjc9jbjjc9 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 Subaru Legacy with 100,000 miles and the rear wheels are binding in turns. Through research, I found this to be the clutch packs and solenoid. I would like to know how to repair it myself or disengage the rear wheels. The FWD fuse under the hood does not disengage it. The AT oil temp light blinks on start-up indicating an electrical failure, the last time the car was run. Any help someone could give me would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    The clutch packs are located in the housing for the transaxle (combination of the transmission, front differential, and center differential), so it is a laborious and complicated task to repair.

    To "disengage" the rear wheels, if the fuse is not doing the trick, you could disengage the hard link. That would simply involve removing the driveshaft linking the rear differential to the center differential and is a simple, quick job.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jbjjc9jbjjc9 Member Posts: 3
    thanks xwesx, I thought about that but if I pull the yoke out of the tranny the fliud will leak out, at least thats what would happen in an older car. I'm thinking about trying to change clutch packs and duty soleniod "c". it don't look to tough just drop the drive shaft, unbolt rear part of tranny case but I have to make some calls to find where to but the mpt clutch and solenoid. thanks for your help.
  • pupparentpupparent Member Posts: 3
    My transmission is leaking really, really bad. I have had it towed to two different transmission repair shops.
    1ST shop told me they would need to drop the trans. in order to make a diagnosis.
    They also told me that my car would not go into first gear.
    When the guy told me this my response was " you didn't drive it without transmission fluid in it did you, remember that is why I had it TOWED, because it is leaking really, really bad?"
    His reply was a pause.
    I got scared and told him to hold off and I would call him back in a few minutes.
    So the next day I called the 2ND shop to try to compare prices using the info from shop #1.
    Shop #2 made me feel more confident in them so I had car towed from shop 1 to shop 2.
    Shop 2 told me well no wonder shop 1 said it wouldn't go into 1ST gear, it was four quarts low in fluid. Shop 2 put fluid in and it shifts fine.
    But...
    my transmission would not leak for shop 2.
    They tried but couldn't get it to leak, so I picked it up and drove it home and there was no leak.
    Now about 100 miles later it is leaking like it was before.
    It appears to only be leaking when it is turned on.
    A constant drip.
    The trail going down the road into my driveway has the drops spaced about 3/4 of an inch apart.
    The filter and pan gasket had been replaced but that didn't change anything.
    Any help/suggestions/ideas/comments are appreciated.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Can you tell from what area of the housing the leak is coming? That might tell us something. If the transmission is otherwise working fine, then it is likely a housing seal or gasket that has given out. The problem is that there are several of them....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • pupparentpupparent Member Posts: 3
    The drips are dripping off of the two bolts at the lower rear area of the differential where the differential and trans. meet together. Right in the front center of the trans. oil pan.
    The two bolts are tight so I think the leak is coming from somewhere up above them.
    I'm not sure what is up there that would leak and my Haynes manual doesn't show any pics.
    I don't think that the gasket between the diff. and the trans. is leaking unless it is doing so from the top where I can't see it.
    If it is this gasket, appx. how much is too much to pay to have it replaced?
    Is this kind of gasket replacement something that can be done at home or is it best left to a trans. repair shop?
    I mentioned before that it appears to only leak when the vehicle is running, I just want to add to this that it starts dripping as soon as the car starts. It doesn't need any time to warm up or anything. :confuse: :sick:
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    edited June 2010
    I just want to add to this that it starts dripping as soon as the car starts. It doesn't need any time to warm up or anything.

    That is not too surprising, given that an automatic transmission works through hydraulic pressure. As soon as the engine is running, the system pressurizes. I would have to be more familiar with the way that housing is put together to be of any more use to you. If it is coming from the gasket area, that means the center/front differential is a sealed unit with the transmission housing attaching to the back of i, with automatic transmission fluid being in direct contact with the gasket area. If it is a single gasket, replacing it would involve fully separating the two units, probably after removing the entire transaxle from the car.

    The leak may be varying in its intensity as result of small debris in the lubricant partially blocking it from time to time. Again, I am only speculating.

    A member with the handle "girlcarbuilder" may be able to provide you with good advice on this one.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • pj43pj43 Member Posts: 9
    Re: I have a 97 and the light blinks 16 times, and binds in reverse @ a full turn.
    its not affected in forward. A mechanic told me its the sellanoids, there is 3 in the valve body, electrical problem, not uncommon. Can fix by pulling the pan down.
    Your input is greatly appreciated.
  • jbjjc9jbjjc9 Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I found the binding is the clutch packs located in the extension housing at the rear of the tranny and the blinking light is telling you an electrical fault occurred the last time you ran the car. That is probably the duty C solenoid which operates the clutch pack and is located in the extension housing as well, not at the tranny pan. I just had mine replaced 2 days ago for $550 and the car works fine. Check out these photos and you will see the clutch pack lying down and the solenoid mounted just to the right with wires coming out. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/Image007.jpg I hope this helps.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Very nice. Thanks for sharing; those photos are excellent. It looks like you did much more than just the center differential clutch pack and solenoid. Would you mind elaborating on the work for our benefit? Also, it looks like a few of the replacement parts (such as what looks like an internal drive shaft between the front and center differentials) are not the same between original and new. Did the new ones still work?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • cosmic007cosmic007 Member Posts: 1
    it is leaking out of the breather in the front diff it is a 1994 legacy can someone help me asap
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    What kind of fluid is it leaking? Gear oil or automatic transmission fluid? If it is ATF, there is a good chance that the internal driveshaft seal to the front differential blew.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • pupparentpupparent Member Posts: 3
    1992 Subaru Legacy , FWD, Automatic Trans.,
    I have a leak from the Gasket that goes in between the Transmission and the Differential.
    Appx. what kind of price should I be expecting a transmission shop to charge to have this gasket replaced?
    Could there be a reason why this gasket would have started leaking, besides it probably being the same age as the car?
    Any info. provided is appreciated, I really need my car fixed but I don't want to get taken advantage of or be screwed over.
    Thank You Everybody and Anybody!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    I am not really sure, but the transaxle does have to be pulled from the car. Based on that, I would estimate somewhere between 6-8 hours of labor. I would guess shop rates in your area are at least $100 (since they seem to be everywhere!), so probably between $700 and $1000.

    Of course, the seal itself is probably a $20 part.... :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • pj43pj43 Member Posts: 9
    I want to thank you very much for your link with trans.back end removed.
    I finally had my 97 fixed, my mechanic went by your inst. the car works like a charm. No more blinking, no more biding in rev. no lunging forward when shutting off the engine. works great. pj43
  • smashermashsmashermash Member Posts: 1
    I see this is an old post, however, I'm currently experiencing the same exact problem with my 2000 lgt wagon...I had to wait about 15 minutes before the transmission engaged tonight after work. The fluid is full and does not smell burnt or appear discolored. The transmission holds strong when in gear, just has technical difficulties engaging.

    Just wondering if you or anyone else have been able to find some kind of solution to this problem. I'm not all that familiar with the operations of a transmission, but a coworker suggested that their may be some sort of hydraulic hose clogged or pinched that engages the transmission?? Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

    Thank you!
    John
  • subaru2001subaru2001 Member Posts: 2
    My 2001 Subaru has been having a lot of issues as of late. Every time I try to accelerate while in reverse or making a turn with the car the rpms go through the roof. It then lurches thereafter making it quite dangerous to be driving out on the road.

    I took it to a transmission place after a mechanic recommended I take it there since they couldn't figure it out. The guy at Aamco said after testing my car the transmission was slipping and that the fluid in the transmission had a burnt smell and was not the color it should be. He said that it would cost around $600 just to look at it and then another $1000 for the soft parts and labor to get it fixed; however he said he doesn't know exactly what in the transmission is the problem.

    Being that the cost of the fixing is around 1/3 of the value of the subaru, is there anything else it could be or another solution to the issue so that I don't have to fork over that huge some of money? Any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
  • subaru2001subaru2001 Member Posts: 2
    After reading other posts it sounds like it could be a torque converter issue. Anyway this is just a little more info on the car. It has 78000 miles on it, and the car is jerking up until 30 mph. When going faster the car sounds and feels fine.
Sign In or Register to comment.