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Hey Susan, I just bought 2006 CRV LX a week before christmas and I don't have PTTR problem with mine. I will post my buying experience etc with pictures soon, hopefully next week. I took a long vacation over the holiday and enjoy driving my CRV. Several times when I'm driving, I let the streering wheel go (hands off) and the car goes straight, I try this in different speed from 20 to 50 mph.
As a good advise given by varmint, have a test drive to the car you intend to buy and see if it has PTTR, if there is no PTTR asks the salesman write down the VIN and match it to the car you have test drive. Then when you're ready to pick up the car, have another test drive and don't forget to check the VIN number. Make sure the dealer gives you the car with the same VIN number. Somebody from another forum has experience the VIN does not match with the car he had test drive and when he check the car there is a big sratch on top. So watch out!
I know buying a car can be emotionally exhausting but it's all worth it. Good luck and let us know when you buy one.
Any other suggestions? By the way, I have a system in my car, with amp and subwoofer.
Let me know if anyone has any suggestions....
Put me in the same category. Everyone loves my used cars, when even the OEM floor mats look brand new after 3 years. Yet in the same breath they say im compulsive about the maintenance and cleaning of my vehicles. My vehicle always sells to the first buyer who sees them.
Two Year
Any other suggestions? By the way, I have a system in my car, with amp and subwoofer.
Let me know if anyone has any suggestions....
Check the back up power (always on) fuse. Consult the OWNER's MANUAL as to exact location. If memory serves me right, it is in the under the hood fuse box.
Wind noise is annoying and can even give you head aches. Miata owners call it "wind burn".
So, indeed, try ear plugs.
When varmint gets his S2000 he'll understand I was actually trying to help. :P
David: brilliant, but slow down a bit...you have some potentially very useful tips in that post.
Can you offer more details, please? Pictures, perhaps? I can host photos for you if you want to e-mail them to me.
So the antennae is at the base of your dash? With one wire running to the c330 unit, and another (power) spliced into your cig. lighter?
Other questions - how is the unit itself mounted in that storage unit, just placed there loosely, or did you fasten it down? And no problems with fuses given you're drawing all that power?
Nifty idea. Kudos.
I ordered the Garmin dash mount for my c320 (same, but SD vs. HDD for yours). I'm not too happy with the mount. The power portion doesn't seem to work properly, as it doesn't turn on and off with the ignition like my suction-cup mount does.
If you prefer, we can move this discussion to the NAV thread: ateixeira, "Navigation / GPS Systems" #520, 6 Jan 2006 6:45 am
-juice
The CRV's road noise can be CONSIDERABLY (not slightly) reduced by installing passenger tires. The Bridgestone Dueller that many CRV's come with, is categorized as a Light Truck/SUV tire, not a "passenger car" tire. Many other tires out there for cars and Minivans work much better on the CRV. Besides making the CRV's ride more quiet, they provide much improved handling and also handle better in the wet and snow/ice. I discovered that most tires that get good reviews from Minivan owners (including Honda Odessey) work well for the CRV.
The Bridgestone Dueller is simply and average or below tire. My brother-in-law's Suzuki Grand Vitara (SUV-bigger than the CRV) had the exact same Bridgestones and he hated the ride and the tires in general. He went with Kumho All Season passenger tires and is much happier. I just ordered the same tires after doing extensive research on tirerack.com by reading all the reviews by people that have bought them. The Michelin Harmony is another decent tire that rated the pretty much the best in the All Season (regular performance SR) category but the cost might be a little too high for some.
Speaking of tire pressures as someone mentioned, you have to run your Bridgestones at 28-29psi, not 26 as is recommended on the driver's door. Most Honda dealers also deliver the SUV with 28-29psi tire pressures. This not only makes the CRV handle a little better (you 're not riding on the sidewalls as much when cornering) but seems to provide the best mileage and I believe actually reduces road noise. Do not go 30psi unless you have 4 adult passengers in the car or considerable extra weight in the car or the back is fully loaded with heavy gear and/or luggage or other heavy tools, etc. At 30psi or above the ride becomes bumpier and the steering more sensitive which some people may not like. Steering sensitivity or quicker steering results in quicker turn-in and can lead to small miscalculations like cutting the corner too tight and hitting a sidewalk or metal sewer protrusion with the inside wheel. My wife almost did that when I went up from 28 to 30.5 psi all around. 28.5-29.0psi seems to produce the best results on the stock Bridgestone 205-70-15's. The reason Honda recommends 26psi is because they only take into account the actual weight of the CRV + 1 driver. When carrying 1 or more passengers you need to go higher. Also most people carry a lot of stuff in the cargo area all the time (usually unecessarily) and this increase the weight of the car by a couple of hundred pounds sometimes. If you add the weight of a baby carriage, wipes box, a soccer ball, other toys, extra jacket(s)/clothes, auto emergency kit, CD's, books, some tools, etc., you 'll be surprised how much these can add up, and also hurt your gas mileage, as well as wear out your tires faster. Add this extra weight to the # of pounds 2 (or more) adult passengers can weigh, and 500lbs would probably be a conservative figure. This is why you need to keep them well inflated and check them regularly. The Bridgestones besides being a "crappy" tire they also don't maintain a good seal around the rim. They gradually lose air in a short period of time. I have to add 2+ PSI at least every 4 weeks! One time in the summer time (when they 're supposed to read higher, warmer=higher pressures), I didn't check them for about 7 weeks and they were all down to 24psi from 29. One was 23.5 (I use a digital pressure gauge but have analog ones too). So don't complain about poor gas mileage or possible handling deterioratin and excessive road noise before you check your tire pressures.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I agree that the Dueler is a crappy tire..(and, it is a passenger car tire in the CR-V size.. it has nothing in common with the SUV/truck tires in the larger sizes). but, my CR-V is just as noisy with the current Goodrich tires..
I've had both generations of CR-V.. and neither is a quiet ride.. A lot of road noise and wind roar in either iteration.. I'm not saying it can't be improved.. but, I think slightly was an accurate assessment..
The noise doesn't bother me.. but, I stand by my earlier statement.. If you want a quiet vehicle, don't get a CR-V. Otherwise, I recommend it..
regards,
kyfdx
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i have a car that i have driven maybe 5 months a year for 15 years. i changed the oil in fall '03, didn't drive until spring '05 and changed the oil of fall '05.
the oil (dino) was fine. the front drain plug always gets oil over the front stabilizer bar. it was still really slippery. put some valvoline maxlife in it last fall (synth i think). sure made the engine purr. i hated to put the car cover on it.
it usually warms up enough in february to start it. i'll check the oil for level and color when i do that.
You left the same oil in your car for almost 2yrs? Not good my friend. Makes my hair rise when I hear things like that :surprise:
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
The '05-06 models have 16" wheels and larger 215-65 tires which in themselves can handle more weight than the 205-70-15's. 1653 vs 1499, a difference of 154lbs.
I also believe the previous gen. CRV ('01 & older) like yours, has 25-30 less HP (but curb weight is less too) with less torque. So my guess would be the payload capacity of a '98 CRV would be around 700lbs, 750 the most. Don't feel bad. RAV-4's have a payload max. capacity of 675lbs. 850 is not bad but still on the low side. Now keep in mind these #s include the driver as well.
Many claim that Honda always publishes smaller payload #s on purpose and that the real #s are a bit higher. I kind of believe that because if you look at many V6 SUV's and pickup trucks with only 180-200hp (not a lot), you will see that their payload capacity is 1,500lbs. That's over a 75% increase! A huge increase if you consider the fact that they weigh much more than a CRV, and only have 20-25% more HP and 25-30% more torque. Now I 'm not saying HP/torque and payload capacity are increased geometrically in relation to each other. It's probably exponentially but still, a lot of these trucks weigh 3800lbs, 500+lbs more than the CRV!
I think the truth is as you found out that the CRV can take a lot more weight than the recommended payload (which btw, the # should be on your door, required by law) but I 'm guessing Honda is afraid, and rightfully so, of an increased # of warranty repairs should the owners operate their CRVs with the "actual" (higher) max. payload capacity for prolonged periods of time. The tranny, shocks and bushings (rear mostly) would be affected in that order from the most expensive to the cheapest. Tires would also deteriorate faster. They don't want people to haul heavy loads of stuff in their CRVs. It takes its toll on the car (any vehicle) if done frequently and major components would fail earlier giving the CRV an average or not so great reliability rating. I don't really blame them. It's just smart planning and looking out for yourself, and even us, the consumer.
My guess is the Ridgeline can haul twice as much with ease and was designed more for that. Our CRV's are really just tall cars. My wife's previous '01 Altima & '98 Accord could haul pretty close to what our '04 CRV can. We haven't really seen any benefits to buying the CRV except for sitting higher but my wife quickly learned that you still can't see ahead of you if there 's another SUV in front of you. Her main reason for wanting the CRV was to "see around other taller cars or SUV's"!! I tried explaining to her that with another CRV, or Cherokee or Explorer in front of her, nothing would change unless she was driving a MACK truck or 18-wheeler. She didn't believe me until after she bought the CRV and found out I was right :confuse:
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
my car... 2 years not many miles.
with my workhorse explorer, i have the oil changed avery 3k. other commuter vehicles, every 5k.
The RAV4 had a payload of 760 lbs, and of course the new generation that just came out has a lot more than that, I think about ~1100 lbs since it has a 3rd row of passengers to haul.
CR-V has been at 850 lbs all along, I believe. But to get the exact number, look at the GVWR in your door jamb, then subtract your curb weight.
-juice
regards,
kyfdx
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The RDX is based on an "all new" platform. The next generation CR-V will also be based on this same platform. That's different than the RDX being based on the current CR-V platform.
Okay.. maybe not..
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-juice
From Hondanews.com (the official Honda news release site):
RDX [prototype] features an all-new 2.3-liter i-VTEC(R) four-cylinder turbocharged engine that generates 240 horsepower and 260 lbs-ft of torque. This is the first application of forced induction technology in Acura history. The revolutionary i-VTEC Turbo technology uses a variable flow turbocharger, which is exclusive to the RDX,...
So if the turbo is really "exclusive to the RDX" then we probably won't see it on the next CR-V.
Of course until Honda releases final information on the production models this is all rumors, speculation, and wishful thinking.
JM2C
If it's still based on the current engine used in the CR-V/RSX/TSX I don't think they should call it "all-new".
We got the Turbo Life Dunk (fun name) over in Japan since 2000.
We got the Accord CDT-i over in Europe.
The Legend came with a turbo V6 in Japan back a decade or so.
A few random marine engines.
And, of course, Honda was so successful with their brand of turbo-charging it was banned from F1 racing for the reason that it provided an unfair advantage.
But, yeah, they seem to resort to turbo power only when it cannot be avoided. During the development of the S2000, they considered going with a turbo, but rejected it because of turbo lag. In their minds it detracted from the driving experience. They wanted fluid power delivery, even if you had to go to 9,000 rpms to find it.
My guess is they engineered their way around the turbo lag problem. So, there was nothing holding them back.
We don't know if it's based on the K series. It could be, but Honda did not have any engine badging on the concept RDX.
Force fed engines run best when the engine is designed to be a turbo from the ground up. You slap a turbo on any existing block, but it doesn't work as well as one built to be a turbo. Back when the rumor of a turbo first appeared, it included the idea that it was an all-new-from-the-ground-up engine. But no one has been able to confirm that part of the rumor.
Subaru's EJ257 block, the turbo one, is actually different than the EJ255 normally aspirated one. The turbo has a semi-closed deck design, plus oil jets to cool the pistons, which are forged to boot.
People assume they're the same, but even though they're in the EJ family, the block is in fact different. Even the gasket part numbers differ.
I bet this block is different, even if it has the same geometry as the current CR-V engine. Turbos get beefed up.
-juice
I'm not sure. Are there any other 2.3L Honda gasoline engines?
That the press release says "all-new 2.3-liter" and "first application of forced induction technology in Acura" suggests that the engine is new, as is the use of a turbo.
There was one in the Accord prior to 2003. But it's highly unlikely they revived a dead block for this.
The 3G CR-V with a more pedestrian power set up and corresponding mpg will probably be more to my liking. If not, there's the Fit.
I'm with you on this issue. My 1st Gen CR-V with 5 speed manual transmission has plenty of power. I don't need or want 200+ HP in my CR-V.
Does anyone have 18" wheels on their CRV, and if so, are there any good or bad things to be aware of? Thanks in advance.
One week after the new CR-V comes out, someone else will announce their latest offering and so on and so on....If you need a vehicle now you choose from what's available. Same with computers, consumer electronics, etc. If you constantly worry about what may be coming you'll make yourself crazy, imho.
In the past, they've done things like only tested the vehicles at night, covered in black tape, without any lighting on a closed test track.
Recently, they have begun letting out a little bit here and a little bit there... But they are still very conservative about it.
Toyota still left room for improvement - the gate still opens to block curb side loading at the grocery store, visibility could be better, and the AWD was actually down-graded to part-time.
Still, I think they set the bar for the segment.
18" rims? That's a lot of unsprung weight. The springs and shocks aren't tuned for it. Plus there is more rotational inertia so it'll actually slow you down a bit.
That might be a bit overkill, just make sure they're forged so that they're both light and sturdy.
-juice