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When you say "If your car stops but will start again change your crank shaft position sensor." Are you saying that the car stalls, like when coming to a stop, and then will restart when you crank it over? Know of any test that you can run on the sensor?
Have you ever experienced a sensation like a momentary power loss, but the engine doesn't stall, only jerks once?
Any problems with excessive parasitic battery current draw, and the solution?
thanks!
So I decided to change spark plugs and wires. Checked and double-checked plug gaps. Didn't solve my problem, but did get rid of misfire error codes. Next I decided it must be moisture getting into distributer cap, so I changed the cap and router. Great!! Solved problem and started right up. Well it ran for a little better then a day, then wouldn't start again.
I decided to hook code reader up again. This time, no misfire codes. Instead, I have three new codes I didn't have before. They are as follows:
Code P0123 -
Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Switch A Circuit High
Code P0113 -
Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High
Code P1698 -
No CCD/J1850 Message from TCM/PCM
I double-checked that all the plugs to sensors were connected and snug. Seemed good. I am now at a loss on what to do next and it seems the more I read the more confused I get. Anyone have any ideas, I could use some direction on what to try next. Thanks in advance!!
I have already told myself this before, I have blacklisted several other companies for similarly not standing behind their products. I am sure you too do not purchase from certain companies, perhaps from a bad experience, perhaps for ethical reasons, now you can include this one as I have, if you choose. I shall not waste any more of my hard earned money chasing demons implanted in a product at the time of manufacture with no way out provided by those in the know.
I can easily relate this to the soullessness of the corporation, the greediness of mindless decision makers, the pointlessness of accounting decision, but I will not digress or be furthermore redundant.
Namaste and good luck with your choices and decisions in life!
Thanks for your time
Tim
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P.S. Someone on another forum said it could be the EGR (Exhaust Gas Reciculatory) Valve stuck open or closed, he said there is a slot on the exhaust side of the EGR pipeing where i can adjust the stem that open and closes the flapper and lubricate it....
Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance..
- :confuse: Peter
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My Cirrus v6 1998 - Would start up and usually die a couple times, would die sometimes at stop lights.... Going down the road it would sometimes stall going down the road at 60 miles an hour !! I could always restart the car after a STALL.. No Dash lights would stay on, only flash on and off. Went to autozone to check for any codes, no codes!! Went to Pep Boys for Diagnostic couldn't find anything to cause the STALLING!! Finally I discovered this website
Read everyone's problems about stalling etc... FINALLY! Decided to try and replace the CRANK SHAFT POSITION SENSOR........MY CAR NO LONGER STALLS AT STOPLIGHTS AND DOESN'T STALL ON THE HIGHWAY Not saying this will work for everyone, but if you have the problems I have listed .. Crank Shaft Position sensor should be the first PART I would TRY to correct the problems. Note-- when my car would stall i could always re-start it every time. ( Which made me think it wasn't a bad crank sensor )
I hope this helps and works for you..... It may save you alot of CASH, and headaches!
Okay, I have a 98 cirrus also. Only 83000 miles because employment provided a vehicle, the car has just not been driven much. I am no longer employed so I am trying to get the car running. The problem I'm having is electrical. Intermittently the dash lights will go out and it doesn't appear that the battery is getting charged. I have replaced the battery and I have had the alternator check which checked out to be working. I have tried driving it short distances in case it dies but I'm not sure my problem is related to the problems in this forum. I want to sell the car but would like to fix this "battery light" problem first. Any suggestions?
I've not taken the time to read the more recent posts on this, but will. First let me throw out a quick fix for those that have been having problems in the summer, mostly after or when it's raining or very humid. Make sure you've got at least a half tank of gas and put in a bottle of Heet. Or just carry bottles with you, in case it's bogging or has stalled, even if you don't have much gas in there -- add it. Then with it in park or neutral with your foot on the brake, rev it for a couple of minutes. If you have the room for this, try and drive it a little bit in a safe enough spot to do so (like not crossing an intersection or pulling out into traffic). I've even driven it back and forth in my driveway like ten times to help the Heet do it's job. It evaporates moisture / water build-up. Then do your best to keep your car at about a full tank all the time.
I've gone through all the crap with this, had it to three different repair shops and dropped a ton of cash. A $2 bottle of Heet has done the trick more often than not. You just have to give it time to work through the system before you trust it to drive you far (I've found that out the hard way). Hope this helps somebody. Oh, and mine is a '99 Cirrus LXI. So it's not just the models before that.
https://youtu.be/sNBNGwYUz1g