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Chevy TrailBlazer Headlight Questions

13

Comments

  • goosehuntergoosehunter Member Posts: 3
    where did you et the sockets i have tried all the local stores in town and no one has them. please help
  • hawkeye2376hawkeye2376 Member Posts: 3
    I got my new ceramic (?) sockets from Arnold Motor Supply in Ankeny, IA. They had the stock all-plastic sockets as well, but these are clearly a different material. I haven't had a burned out bulb or socket since.
  • frnkiebfrnkieb Member Posts: 1
    I have an 02 chevy trailblazer with the headlamps out. high beams work, but the low beams dont seem to come on. autozone had the dashboard switch for aprox. $106 but that wasnt it. i replaced the turn signal switch ($150) that wasnt it either. all the micro switches seem to work and all the fuses were good. when the power was applied to the the correct fuses the lamps came on so i knew they were good. finally we found that there is resistor that supplies power to the lamps. apparently that was burnt out. when bypassed the lamps came on. its on order and will be replaced this afternoon. final cost $60+ tons of frustration. lol
  • lil_countrylil_country Member Posts: 1
    Can you tell me where the resistor is, I have a trailblazer. The low beams go off and everything else works.
  • marty54marty54 Member Posts: 1
    I have read a lot of other post about the low beams going out and the high beams still work. I have the same trouble. I traced it to the switch on the dash and that was 120.00. Well it didn't work. I checked both low beam head lites and they were both good. I have not tried to change #45 and #46 yet that will be tomorrow night. I looked at the wiring scamatic and have seen that there is a light sensor. According to the book this sensor makes the low beam driving lights dim during the day and turns them on even higher at night because it's dark. If it's not the 45 and 46 the only other thing it can be is that sensor. That is going to be a real pain to get to because it's in the dash near the windshield. If man maid it I will figer it out it just may take some time. If any one else has had this trouble and already knows would you please let me know what it is?
  • fj4072fj4072 Member Posts: 29
    This is classic relay problem. I took the relay out several times trying to show it to different auto parts stores. I ended up having to special order it. In taking the relay out many times, this effectively scraped the contacts clean to bare metal. I have not had any problems with the relay since then, even after I received my new relay. New relay is in my glove box just in case, I'm going on 9 months now with the old relay after contacts were scraped clean (accidently) :) By the way, if you ever do need to get at that sensor on the top of the dash, it's VERY simple. The whole top part of the dash just pops right out, being very careful not to break that is. The plastic piece that holds it in place broke on mine, so I ended up using epoxy to fix it.
  • leilani5leilani5 Member Posts: 1
    Just confirming that what i read on one of the post here is correct. my lowbeams work sometimes and sometimes not. mine is 2004. according to the owners manual, fuse schematic page 5-94 and 5-96 the fuse that causes this problem is #46(Headlamp Driver Module). it is one of the xtra large black fuses. Part#15016745 is marked on the top of the fuse. the fuse directly in front of this fuse is #45 (Cooling Fan). this fuse has the same part # so i interchanged the fuses and the lowbeams came on immediately!! happy!! i found the fuse online for approx. $35 but will check with dealer in the morning as it is midnight right now. this forum has really helped me save some money. i hope i have helped someone as well. thankx.
  • fj4072fj4072 Member Posts: 29
    You're correct grasshopper. Note: when asking for this part, it is a relay, not a fuse. The e-bay price seems high, meaning I thought it would be 1/2 price or so. New one from Autozone is $39 part # 20601. Don't trust what part # that pops up on their website, it's not the right part. Try cleaning the old relay contacts with some fine sandpaper and try it. I have a new one as a back up in my glovebox, but cleaning the contacts worked for me. :)
  • sar1127sar1127 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 trailblazer. Turned on truck last night and both low beams didn't come on. Just replaced both bulbs about 6 months ago when one of them went out. I put the good (old) bulb in to see if it was getting power and the light worked. I put the new bulb back in and oddly it worked. Tried to do the same thing on the other side and when I got the plug off noticed that one of the leads on the plug and bulb were burnt. Why would this happen? Can I just cut off the burnt plug and put on a new one? Is there something before the plug causing it to burn up? Like a relay or something? Or do they over time burn like that? Any suggestions? How or where to get the part? Easiest way to replace or fix?
  • jbs_fancijbs_fanci Member Posts: 3
    sar1127:
    I have an 02 TrailBlazer LT. Shortly after I bought it I noticed the passenger low beam was burnt out. It also had the wires/plug burnt (some sites i've visited state that later years were not made of the same materials & they believed this to be the issue...but I am unsure). My husband fixed the problem on mine. Not too many months later we were driving down the hiway at night and lost all low beams. Not too sure why I did it, but I instantly flipped over to high beams and they worked fine. Pulled over, turned off the suv & restarted it & low beams were back. This went on for a few months. After searching HERE, on Edmunds, we followed the advice of another poster. Here is a copy of the post we read & followed: Low beams are driven by a module in the underhood fuse block. #46 is the Headlight Driver Module ("HDM") which is a solid-state relay. This is becoming a common failure. You can test it by temporarily swapping it with #45 the "Cooling Fan" driver module for the fan clutch as they are the same type device. If that's it, you will likely have to buy the replacement from a GM dealer. Prices can vary from about $25 to over $40 for that module depending where you buy it. Good Luck!b> **note that hubby & I left modules #45 & #46 this way & never bought a replacement for either & that was about a year back. I've had no trouble with either device :o) Hope this helps!!
  • bdawson85bdawson85 Member Posts: 3
    I have an 03 TBLTZ and the driver side headlight went out. When going to change it the light came back on as if there was a short in the connector. The connector is melted and when the light does get connection, the connector gets so hot you can't hold it. I'm assuming I need to just get a new connector somewhere but I was wondering what was the cause of this as well. should I check out the 45/46 relays? Thanks for the help everyone.
  • frstarfrstar Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 TB with 20000 miles.
    After going through all the messages on this subject I may have found the answer in switching the relays #45 and #46. My symptoms are somewhat different(I think). When I park the TB after dark and then start it sometime later, the headlights do not work, neither hi or lo will come on. Last night after driving 2 miles and arriving home(miracle) the headlights came back on as I entered my driveway.
    It(the problem) may be related to the fact that I had parked under some lights before turning the engine off. This is a stretch but had happened before under those circimstances. Very frustrating and scary.
  • bdawson85bdawson85 Member Posts: 3
    As a follow up, I swapped the 45/46 relays and it didn't do anything different. I think my problem may just be a short in the connector itself. Any input?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    You should probably replace the plastic connectors with ceramic ones. I did this very thing some time ago when I noticed that the plastic connectors were getting deformed from the heat of the bulbs. Also, I noticed that some corrosion was present on both the bulb and connector contacts, which equals resistance to current flow and more heat. The ceramic connectors don't seem to be an issue. I got them at a local auto supply (Pep Boys) and used butt splices to connect them to the harness.
  • bdawson85bdawson85 Member Posts: 3
    Ok, thanks. I saw some high heat headlamp sockets on Autozone.com and they have them for several different bulb types. I'll just find out what the OE bulb is and use the matching socket.

    Thanks again for the recommendation.
  • gatorlbgatorlb Member Posts: 1
    For owners who experience the "headlight dimming" problem described in an older post. Let the vehicle idle for 20 seconds after starting. This solved my problem. Below is the service bulletin that describes the issue in more detail.

    Subject:Diagnostic Information on Headlamps Flicker or Momentarily Dim While Driving #05-08-42-001 - (03/07/2005)

    Models:2004-2005 Buick Rainier
    2002-2005 Chevrolet TrailBlazer
    2002-2005 GMC Envoy
    2003-2004 Oldsmobile Bravada
    with 4.2L Engine (VIN S -- RPO LL8)
    A concern regarding headlamps flicker or become dim while driving may be easily mis-diagnosed. It is very important to capture as much information from the customer as possible. Below is a guideline to assist with diagnostics.

    Verify the customers specific concern.

    • What time of day does this occur (is it light or dark outside) ?
    • What driving conditions (vehicle speed, engine speed, throttle position, etc...)?
    • What was the outside ambient temperature when the condition occurred?
    • What accessories was the driver using when this condition occurred (A/C, heated seats, rear defogger, etc...)?
    • If the concern is at dusk, could it be the automatic headlamps changing from DRL to Headlamp mode and possibly back to DRL again?
    • Are there any other relevant operating conditions?

    Diagnostic Information

    • Service Bulletin - 02-06-03-008A - Info - Low Voltage Display on IP Gauge, Lights Dim at Stop Lights, Battery Discharged, No Start, Slow Cranking, Dim Lights at Idle, Low Generator Output (SI Document ID #1540541)
    • Service Bulletin - 02-06-03-006B - No Start, No Crank, Battery, Batteries, Generator, Gages, SES, SIR, Brake, Security, Theft, ABS, Hot, DIC Messages, Lamp, Light, Battery and Generator Diagnostic Testing and Cadillac Roadside Service (SI Document ID #1563904)
    • Service Information - Exterior Lighting Systems Description and Operation (SI Document ID #826321)
    • Service Information - Battery Inspection/Test (Non-HP2) (SI Document ID #653410)
    • Service Information - Charging System Test (SI Document ID #1468059)
    • Service Information - Inspect for aftermarket devices that could affect the operation of the system. Refer to Checking Aftermarket Accessories in Wiring Systems (SI Document ID #816776)

    Important:
    • Keep in mind high current draw items may cause a noticeable dimming of lights and a fluctuation in the voltmeter may be noted and is a normal operating characteristic of the vehicle.

    • For 2004-2005 TrailBlazer, Envoy, Rainier and Bravada with the LL8 4.2L engine only, the Secondary Air Injection (AIR) pump activation is thought to be the main contributor to this high current draw condition and is a normal operating characteristic of the vehicle. Refer to Secondary Air Injection System Description (SI Document ID #1298539).

    For customers whose driving habits tend to run the AIR pump diagnostic test that leads to concerns with the headlight flickering, if the vehicle is allowed to idle for 20 seconds prior to driving, this should allow the passive test to pass and prevent from running the active test that may dim the lights. The passive test should/will usually pass 99 percent of the time, and by allowing the 20 second idle period, it should almost eliminate the active test. Be sure to check for codes and correct related concerns if this condition repeats.
    Additional high current draw items are rear window defogger, HVAC blower motor, rear air suspension pump along with other components.
    For easier diagnostics, it may be possible to control or monitor these components with a scan tool.
    It is important to inspect all related connections, grounds and battery terminals for integrity . A loose or corroded connection may exaggerate the concern, and may cause other symptoms. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections (SI Document ID #1470165).
    Corrections/repairs should only be made for specific concerns identified and not related to characteristic of high current draw components.
  • bigproblems33bigproblems33 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 04 Trailblazer. I have had problems with my low beam lights going out very often. I take my truck to firestone and when I first started taking it it was over $100 because they had to remove the whole front panel to get to the lights. But now they have lowered the price drastically, but I hadn't had to pay the last couple of times because the light goes out in 6 mths or less which is within the warranty. It is ridiculous!! I need to check the bulb socket the next time to see if this resolves my problems.

    I have experienced problems with cluster panels, low beams, actuators, heating/cooling system, etc. Every problem I have had I came on this forum and it shows people entering tons of problem with the same or related issues. I have even seen reviews from people that has '07 or higher chevy models and they are having these problems and it is ridiculous. I will NEVER buy another chevy/GMC vehicle again. These forums have really helped me to get to the bottom of some of my problems so I could go to a dealership like I know what was going on. But this is ridiculous and chevy does not do a recall on any of this.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    If your paying them over $100 extra just to remove the "front panel", they are taking advantage of you. It took me about 1.5 minutes to remove the grill (what I assume the front panel is). It just pulls off. Then removing the headlamp assemblies only requires pulling up two locking tabs on each one.
    I replaced both low beam sockets a long time ago on our 02 with ceramic ones due to the heat causing the plastic ones so soften and deform.
  • c118fec118fe Member Posts: 23
    is there a way to email corporate? Dealer kept putting me off on certified used car and when 12 mo B to B over finally said ok to re-paint my bumpers but being its out of warranty I would pay for rental.Went there 5 x over 1 year including day before warranty expired--We will call you--famous last words.Hoping corporate can help.Grey Chevrolet in Stroudsburg,Pa.
  • cck3cck3 Member Posts: 1
    I have tried everything. When the key is turned once i have low beam, turn it twice to where everything powers up, fuel pump gas gauge etc.. lights out and will not come back on. I have tried changing #45 and #46 relays all other fuses and micros ok. I drive with highs on all the time.
  • fj4072fj4072 Member Posts: 29
    Try cleaning the heck out of the contacts in the fuse box AND the relays. This is what worked for me to solve this same problem, while still using the old relay. But I have a new relay in my glovebox just in case it ever really does go out.
  • tnanningatnanninga Member Posts: 10
    I decided to replac the Airfilter & Plumbing with K&N filter and left the air cleaner bonnet off. The airfilter is exposed and may need to be cleaned more frequently. But its easy with K&N filter. The air inlet plumbing was replaced with a new tube that did not open to the AC bonnet so all air is filtered... :shades:
  • antonbynumantonbynum Member Posts: 1
    i have a 04 trailblazer and my headlights low beam went out. I checked the fues and the bulbs and they were not blown. please help
  • fj4072fj4072 Member Posts: 29
    Are both sides out? If so, switch relay # 45 with relay #46. Do you now have lights? If it's just the one side, check the wiring harness and the bulb socket. Some people have problems with the socket overheating and melting.
  • jules712jules712 Member Posts: 1
    I have an '06 TrailBlazer, & I just want to know how you replace the bulb in passengers side headlight. I was stopped last night & found out it was out, so now I have to figure it out & install it myself. Clear instructions would be helpful, since I really didn't see much of that on here. Thank you! :confuse:
  • jbs_fancijbs_fanci Member Posts: 3
    edited April 2011
    Raise the hood. The front grill pops right off by carefully pulling at the areas where it is clipped onto the SUV...it is plastic so be careful. Once you have the grill laid aside you need to stand in front of the passenger headlight. Look directly down at the top area that is under the hood & you will see that there are 2 clips...one on the extreme outter top on both sides...you will need pliers, etc to pull them straight UP....the one to the far outside is a bit under the fender edge & I used a long screwdriver to tug it up. Make sure you are right in front of the light to catch it so it does not fall. You need to remove the old light & replace with a new one....BUT I had done this TWICE and the exact same light kept going out. The problem is not always the bulb. In my case (and MANY others i have read about) the wiring that attaches to the piece where the bulb goes gets too hot and melts (once you are into the headlight area make sure to look it all over for melted or discolored wiring). My hubby had to fix my wiring & once he did it has never happened again. GOOD LUCK & BE CAREFUL!! Oh...a test you can do BEFORE removing everything to see if it possibly may be the wiring (or this is what we did) is to have your lights ON & use the outside of your fist and thump several times on the passenger side fender area close to the front where the light is. It didn't fix it everytime we did it, but MANY times we'd thump the fender & the light would come back on :)
  • fj4072fj4072 Member Posts: 29
    Easiest way to do this.....Remove the top of the air cleaner, at this point you have complete access to the bulbs. Remove the 3" round rubber boot, and remove the bulb. There is another way which involves removing the grill, but you chance cracking or breaking the grill and it takes too long.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    jules712,

    Just checking in to see if the issue has been taken care of. Please keep us posted.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • mfllngmmfllngm Member Posts: 1
    Both of my headlamps went out, I swapped #45 and #46 like someone had suggested, the lights started working. I went to auto parts store purchased a new relay. Installed the new one, made sure lights worked. They did! That was done in the morning, that night I went to leave and both headlamps out again. Swapped them again they worked, but what would have made the new module go out that I just purchased or what can I do now? i do not want to go to the dealership!!!
  • emnihaemniha Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I have a 2005 Chevy TB and my lights have been mysteriously shutting themselves off while I am driving down the road. I do not want to take to a dealer so I am hoping that doing what you did - replacing the relay. Have your lights continued working after thhis replacement? It is only my regular beams. The parking lights will continue to work and my brights will turn on. I just don't want to be driving at night and then my lights go out on me!
  • fj4072fj4072 Member Posts: 29
    edited September 2011
    I've dealt with this myself for 3 years now. Originally I went out and bought a relay. However, I tried taking the old relay out and putting it back in several times (10-15 times) which in turn cleaned the relay and fuse box terminals. My old relay has worked fine for 3 years since this cleaning, however, just recently went out on me completely. When removing the relay, make sure it's not super hot. If it is, replace it. I always keep a spare relay in my glovebox in case I run across someone with this problem. My new relay has been working great and is much cooler than the old one. Sometimes the old relays solder joints on the inside of it will crack, causing arcing which will make it hot......just replace it. I expect that at some point in time that my new relay will stop working in due time (temporarily), but it will be years. Just needs to be cleaned, not sure why, but that relay oxidizes very easily, and is the most common problem with TB's. 3 years ago, I had to special order the part....NO ONE had it in stock. 3 years later, everyone has this in stock, it's that common.

    On a side note, if your lights go out on you, just switch relay #45 and 46, your lights will start working again. But keep an eye on your temperature, the other one controls your fan. Like me, if you do need to switch relays, you're check engine light will eventually go on. Reason- there will be no communication for your fan to turn on and off. Which will throw an OBDII code (don't remember the #), but it's "lost communication with the fan" Just switch them back or replace the bad relay, the check engine light will go off automatically.
  • bigproblems33bigproblems33 Member Posts: 5
    This forum is so awesome I was about to spend $300 to have someone fix my lights. I have been experiencing the problem of both headlights low beam going out on me. I dont understand why. Please help me to understand what you are saying to do. Do I take 45 relay and put 46 in its spot? Do i need to leave something in 46 also? I am clearly not a mechanic and do not know where this is located but am willing to figure it out. Anything I can do to save some money will help. I appreciate your info.
  • fj4072fj4072 Member Posts: 29
    Yes, just switch the two relays to get you out of a jam. So #45, put in the #46 slot, and vis versa. Don't want to leave it too long or you'll get a check engine light for no communication to your fan. The fuse box under the hood, next to the battery is where they are located. The plastic cover has a schematic of the locations of the black colored relays, they are right next to each other. Buy a new relay, $40 from Autozone.

    My explanation of "why" is a thread or two above yours. The 2 problems are basically oxidation of the terminals, and cracked solder joints in the relay itself. Enjoy your $260 you didn't have to spend!
  • deltajoeldeltajoel Member Posts: 1
    I have an 02 Trailblazer. I was lucky enough to get pulled over because my headlight was out. Thought no big deal. I ran up to Autozone the next day and bought a set. Replaced them and but of course, the drivers light is still out. I checked all the head light fuses and I didn't see any that were blown. I made sure the connection was tight and the connector itself seemed fine. I have no clue and I'm living off a student loan so I don't really have money to go to a shop and since I'm in a small town, that cop will probably ticket me next time! Any advice would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. Once again, thank you.
  • fj4072fj4072 Member Posts: 29
    When it comes to individual lights not working, count the relay problem out.
    There is a known problem with the connector itself melting on the inside. Have you checked this out, or is that connector getting power? Hook a meter to it and see if you get power. Many people have needed to buy that pigtail and replace with a high heat ceramic connector. The wires going to the connector are too small for the amount of heat that goes to it. Which is why I use standard bulbs, not the extra brights ones you can buy, which draw more heat. On a side note, (just in case you don't know), you cannot touch the bulb itself with bare hands, the oil from your hands will burn a hole in that bulb really quick. Another thing to check, try switching bulbs from the one that works.
  • gator33gator33 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 ext-ls, I also had the problem with the headlights going out. I switched #45 and #46 relays and they worked fine, I bought a new relay at Advanced Auto for 34.99 and tax. Also my rear stereo speakers and cruise control were not working and the new relay fixed that problem as well (strange but they must be connected somehow). I will mention that my check engine light came on and the codes were for the fan cluch, fan cluch sensor and oxygen sensor, I replaced all and added a k&n cold air intake new plugs and cleaned the throttle body and mass air flow sensor, (the throttle body clean is apparently a necessity with the l6 every year or 20k miles) I mention the fan and cluch because I bought the truck used and suspect the dealer swapped the relays and reset the check engine light this caused the fan cluch and sensor to get defective 2 months after the purchase.
    Next question- after installing the new parts I reset the check engine light. During the first drive it came back on, Advanced Auto says the only code its throwing out is for the mass air sensor is detecting cold air. I susspect its the new intake, is this normal?

    Thanks for all the great info on this site!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • fj4072fj4072 Member Posts: 29
    FYI, when ever you have a check engine light, the cruise control is disabled which is normal. When the light is reset or goes out, it will work again. Never heard of the rear speaker going out like that. When you switch relay #45 and #46, you will get a check engine light either immediately or shortly after the switch, this is normal. The other relay runs the fan clutch operation, so that's what that is (happened to me also). The oxygen sensor, must of been coinsidence that it was going bad. Yes clean that Throttle body puppy once a year or more often if needed. Really no good way to clean our MAS , buy a new one, cleaning doesn't seem to work for us.

    As for your last question, having a new MAS MAY solve that light, however, I'd call K&N myself. They have an awesome technical department that could answer your question.
  • vskardainrenovskardainreno Member Posts: 3
    Hi all-

    I wish I had found this forum sooner; I have a feeling it would have saved me some $. My daughter has a 2006 Trailblazer and the low beams suddenly stopped working. Took it to a mechanic who at first thought it was a switch, then decided it was the body control module. So, $500 later, we have low beams. My question is this---Is the BCM where the relays are? It seems like relays are the popular choice here for fixing the problem...I probably got hosed for my $500, but I couldn't have her driving around with her high beams on. Any advice?
  • fj4072fj4072 Member Posts: 29
    edited November 2011
    No, the relays are in the fuse box. The BCM (Body Control Module) doesn't have anything to do with the low beam headlights.

    This relay problem can and IS intermittent. So if the relay itself wasn't taken out and or either replaced or cleaned, your low beam lights will eventually go out again. I would ask if this was done. If not, I'd encourage you to replace it yourself. It's about $40 or less, the fuse box is located right next to the battery on the drivers side. Take the top off the fuse box, then take the plastic piece off too. Both just pull up, no tools needed. Look at the bottom of the cover and look at either #43 or #46 relay, it's one of these two. They are both right next to each other, I believe it's the one closest to the firewall. Pull it up and out and replace. Will take ya 15 seconds to do. Good luck!
  • frstarfrstar Member Posts: 4
    As the previous messaged indicated, the relays are in the fuse box
    under the hood. I got my relpacement at a chevy dealer, just under $40.
    Very easy to replace...
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Information on the fuse block begins on page 5-109 in the Trailblazer owner's manual. It should be on the driver's side of the vehicle. There's a diagram in there, as well, detailing the different fuses and relays and their locations.

    Hope this helps,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • vskardainrenovskardainreno Member Posts: 3
    Thanks everyone!
  • kj2572kj2572 Member Posts: 2
    My daughter was stopped for having the driver side headlight out on our 2005 trailblazer. When I took it up to have the bulb replaced, they said that the bulb wasn't the problem, it was the contactor. Can this part be purchased at Autozone or someplace similar or does it have to come from a Chevy dealer?? If it has to come from GM, where can I get the part number so that I can order it online??
  • fj4072fj4072 Member Posts: 29
    You mean connector right? Go to Rockauto.com and buy it there, they are cheap and ship same day. Depending on which part you need there, use a high heat connector as this is a very common problem for us Trailblazer owners.

    rockauto.com has pictures there so you can match up perfectly, don't shy away from Dorman brand as it is a quality brand. Tons of us TB owners use this website to order parts because of they have price AND service....No I don't work for them :), just many great experiences with them myself. They have shipped within an hour many times for me.
  • zkeesee16zkeesee16 Member Posts: 1
    rockauto.com rules!!!
  • dmeier67dmeier67 Member Posts: 2
    First noticed that the left turn signal was doing double time which normally means a bulb out. Checked all bulbs and all are working. When I jiggled the high beam switch (same as turn signal) it would blink normally. Then next time start double time again. After a while when the high beam is on the left turn signal will blink once then stop. (Really not sure if related or not but the green arrow indicator on the dash stays dimly lit all the time. May be just picking up light from bulb behind meter cluster?)

    Also noticed that ALL front lights on the driver side are more dim than passenger side (high and low beam and turn signal and running light). It is very noticeable when driving. Not sure if the two situations are related.

    Here is what I have tried so far:

    Swapped the real tail light circuit boards. No change.
    Swapped the front head light assemblies. The one from the passenger side that had been bright became dim on the driver side and the driver side assembly became bright on the passenger side. So I am assuming it is not the lights, connections etc. as the problem stayed on the driver side even though the parts were changed.

    Checked voltage on both front sides. Reading just over 14 volts (same both sides).

    I swapped the high beam relay in the fuse box with another relay. No change.

    The turn signal relay uses the same relay for both right and left and em flashers (which flash normal speed by the way) so I don't think it is bad.

    My only thought now is that the turn signal switch is bad but a new one is $100+ so don't want to buy one if not needed. It may be causing the fast blinking, but not sure about the dim lights. Anyone have anything like this happen? I have read about some crazy electrical issues with the TB but nothing like this.
    Thanks
  • dmeier67dmeier67 Member Posts: 2
    Ok more info for post 159 above- after checking today and noticing that the high beam light flashed when the turn signal was on (I could not imagine an electrical system where the high beam would be on the same circuit as the turn signal). Anyway, I was going to take the fuse box apart to see if there was anything melted or shorted out underneath and noticed that all the bolts were already loose (hand loose). I tightened them all up and PRESTO all the problems went away!! So after several hours of messing around I lucked into the fix. I think the dealer left the screws loose a while back they had to do some electrical work. The issues did not start right away so I did not make the connection (no pun intended). p.s. This vehicle is trouble waiting to happen! I would sell it but it's not mine!!
  • wgh4012wgh4012 Member Posts: 2
    My lights have been staying on and draining my battery. I have a 2003 trailblazer. I have replaced my relay for the dimmers. We haven't ruled out #46 relay yet will be doing that tonight. I am almost positive it is not #46. Has anyone had this problem or have any other ideas of what it might be?
  • fj4072fj4072 Member Posts: 29
    After your vehicle is turned off or what? The TB's I've seen and it's been many, #46 has been stuck in the on position when the battery is being drained. If you're talking about the daytime running lights, there is an off switch. OR you could install a DRL killer.
  • wgh4012wgh4012 Member Posts: 2
    Yes, after I turn the car off my daytime lights stay on and drain my battery. I went to buy #46 and it is $34.00 with no refund. I want to rule out all the possibilities before I buy this part and it be something else. Thinking it could be sensor or somethng in the wiring but not for sure. Where is the off switch? The different light settings switch inside the car does not work when I try to turn them off.
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