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Chevrolet Aveo Engine Problems

24567

Comments

  • flaaveoflaaveo Posts: 161
    Just wanted to post something into this forum. No one posts,except me, lately. I changed my oil and filter today at 6 months, and 1,850 miles! Thats a lot of miles for me. But it was 6 months. I used the same full Synthetic oil that I used last time, I got it for less than plain Dino oil, on sale, I should have stocked up! It was like $1.50 a quart. Valvoline full Synthetic, and got a top of the line filter. I always forget its name. It is the deep metallic blue one that costs $6 each! And is suppose to have an anti siphon feature, and more filter pleats in it etc.... I threw out the box and the trash already came by. It is Micronic? Anyway..after 6 months, even though it was only 1,850 mils, I just couldnt let it stay in the engine anymore.
    I usually go for 3 months. BUT since I use Synthetic, I know I can go a lot longer, many more miles, but I just feel better when the car has clean oil in it.
    AND I am finally getting a whopping 19 mpg! Without trying. I guess it is finally broken in, and the Syn.oil and Bosch plugs help. So I have gone from 14-17mpg on a good day. To 19-20 mpg on the past 4 fill ups. Maybe there is hope for this engine.

    I saw someone selling a Daewoo Lanos hatchback, in mint condition. It looked like a car I would own. Not a mark on it or in it. BUT they wanted $4,500 for it. A bit much for that old of a subcompact car. and a company that no longer exsists in the USA...except for OUR Aveos. I think it is was a 1998.? The weird thing was that it said, 'the engine is the same as the one in the Nissan Sentra'! This is the same engine that is in our Aveos, except now it has the 4 valves per cylinder instead of only 2. I know our engines come from Daewoo...since GM owns Daewoo, to make our engines and build our Aveos, but how did Nissan get into the mix? Anyone know? :confuse:
  • timsehtimseh Posts: 24
    OK, you don't put a lot of miles on it... how long is your average trip? I'm astounded that your mileage is that low. I've heard some people reporting disappointing mileage, but that seems wrong unless you're either sitting at a dead stop with the air running for a large part of your daily commute or are driving very very short trips. (alternately, you don't have a hoodlum teenager nearby that's siphoning your gas, do you?)

    I've only got about 800 miles on my 08 LS Sedan now, but on my last fill up, I managed 35 MPG in 80% highway driving.
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    I remember reading somewhere that the Aveo gets it engine from a GM owned plant on Australia, but that might not be correct. It would, however, expalin the low-tech features on the engine, as GM seems to be behind the curve on new technology, especially in samller compact cars.

    By the way, the best mileage I ever got around town was 25 MPG and 31 MPG hwy (US gallons). I experimented with running hi-test gas, and it did increase the MPG, but not enought to make up for the cost difference per gallon. My Aveo was a 05 automatic LT model, and for those out there who think anyone who isn't getting 40+ mpg have our foot in the carb, well, they are simply flat-out wrong. I would LOVE to see someone show me their Aveo getting 40+ mpg and driving normal highway speed limits (as I said, regular speed limits, not 90 mph)..

    Folks, driving 45 mpg on the interstate highway doesn't count, since that isn't a realistic expectation, in my opinion.
  • flaaveoflaaveo Posts: 161
    If I put 4 miles a day on it ,I am lucky. It is 100% city driving. I see you have not read all my posts about my horrible gas mileage. About half the other Aevo owners say the same thing, the other half are like you, getting these unreal amounts from a tank of gas. I've had it checked by Chevy two times for computer error,and they say it is running perfect. I installed Bosch 4's spark plugs the first week of owning it,brand new...then my first oil change, i switched it over to Synthetic oil,that put it up to like 15 mpg, IF I drove like a little old lady. BUT now the past 3 tanks, I am getting 18-20mpg...more towards 18mpg...but I hit 20 every so often.

    I did fill up one time on 93 octane,but at $3.55 a gallon, I did it once! Since then it has gotten 18-20mpg on the last 3 tanks.
    No one is stealing my gas, it is locked, remember:) the tank cover is locked.
    I think it did need to hit over 5,000 miles to break in. But the Synthetic oil and Bosch plugs help a lot! And now they are helping more.
    So, maybe one day,before I trade in on something that gets 30+ on gas alone, or a hybrid Civic, I'll get 22mpg out of it. :D
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    I also ran synthetic oil in mine. I say "ran" because I recently sold it. It had 34K miles, and the body was beginning to implode. Door handles came loose, and the area of the dash that holds the instruments came loose. Also, the moonroof ceased working in the "tilt" mode, and this was the 2nd moonroof on the car.

    All this, and more, on a car that was garaged when not in use and never saw a mile on a dirt road. I swear, my Aveo was put together without any wrenches...they only tightened the fastners "hand-tight".

    Mechanically, speaking in a "reliability" frame of reference, I had no problems. No oil useage or oil leaks, and the car never left me stranded. I did, however, find the suspension "creaking and moaning" somewhat bothersome, but it didn't affect reliability.

    I religiously changed the oil/filter every 6 months or 5k miles, and I found that synthetic oil did seem to improve the mileage 1-2 mpg, but I can't scientifically prove it.

    I had intended to keep this car for several years, but when I saw the costs that I would have to pay to fix the sunroof when the car was out of warranty, I knew it was time to unload this vehicle and cut my losses.

    My opinion on the Aveo is that there will be 2 types of owners...the guy who buys the bare-bones car at a great price and puts tons of miles on it will probably be satisfied, but the guy who buys the loaded LT version, like I did, will probably wind up being somewhat disappointed in his vehicle.
  • timsehtimseh Posts: 24
    No, I'm still getting caught up here. I haven't had time to read through everything.

    I do have to say, though, that driving 4 miles a day, I'm not surprised at the mileage you're getting. That's barely enough to get it up to operating temperature.

    I don't think what I'm getting is unreal at all. 35 MPG highway, doing 65 over relatively flat terrain for several hundred miles seems perfectly reasonable. Those same couple hundred miles of city driving, maybe 30 miles of that a day, nets me about 26-27 MPG. About what I would expect.

    It's really too bad that true plug in electrics aren't a reality in the U.S. yet (at least not an affordable option). You sound like you'd be the perfect candidate.

    I'd be curious to know what your mileage would be like if you took it out for a weekend road trip some time. I'll bet you'd see a huge difference.

    I seem to recall (and I'm no expert) that there are basically 2 types of hybrids. Those designed for highest economy in city driving, and those designed for highway economy. I never really paid attention to which is which because, frankly, with my driving habits, I wouldn't save enough in gas to pay the difference between, say a Honda Civic and an identical Civic Hybrid.

    I'm afraid that if you traded for something that is rated at 30+ on gas alone, you'll end up in the same boat you're in now unless your driving habits change.

    And please note, when I talk about driving habits, I'm not implying that you drive like some hopped up teenage kid (god, that statement dates me, doesn't it?). I'm talking about putting 4 miles a day on your car. Heck, if I had a commute that short, I'd just ride a bike or get a scooter... Actually, I home office, so I don't put many miles on my car either, but when I do, it tends to be in the range of 30-50 miles at a time, or over 150 at a time depending on the clients I'm going to see. I'll have the occasional 800-1000 mile trip on there as well, but haven't had the opportunity to do that since I purchased mine.
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    Information on GM engines from Wikipedia...looks like they are made in Melbourne, Australia....

    I think someone got the Nissan Sentra confused with the Daewoo Gentra....see below...

    D-TEC/E-TEC II
    Holden makes various Family II engines for GM India and GM Daewoo at its Melbourne plant. Variations include displacements from 1.6 L. to 2.4 L. Unlike the Ecotec engines, the block is made of iron.

    [edit] L34
    This is the 2.0L (1998cc) variant of the engines, featuring 86mm bore and 86mm stroke. Power is 119hp (89kW) @ 5400rpm and torque is 126ft·lbf (171N·m).

    The engine has been used on following vehicles:

    Chevrolet Optra
    Chevrolet Evanda
    Suzuki Reno
    Suzuki Forenza

    [edit] Other models
    1.6 L - Daewoo Kalos, Daewoo Gentra, Chevrolet Aveo
    1.8 L - Chevrolet Lacetti, Chevrolet Nubira, Chevrolet Rezzo
    C24SE, *2.4 L SOHC - Isuzu Rodeo
    2.4 L DOHC - Chevrolet Captiva, Opel Antara
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    I have a neighbor who has one of those Daewoo's and it is working for them. They never shared engines with Nissan. Nissan is having enough problems with their 4-cylinder engines nowadays with their recalls.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    you can go 9 mos to 1 year if it's full synthetic and only3-4k miles.
  • c118fec118fe Posts: 23
    I changed to full syn.I plan to only change the filter @ 7500 mi and top off.Let the filter do its work and see how clean the oil stays.
  • My wife and I bought a new 07 aveo last june and didn't have any problems with it until recently. The same thing was happening to us the brake and battery lights were coming on and the brake wasn't engaged. It finally got to the point where the car was dieing on us and we had to keep having it towed to the service center. They could not find out what was wrong with it at first, but eventually they replaced the battery, the ignition switch and finally the alternator ( in that order) since they replaced the alternator we haven't had any problems. Chevy has really ticked me off with this one. It's very unlikely that I'll buy a chevy again.
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    Hey, Poncho167...

    My daughter is looking at a new Toyota, and I have seen several comments from you in these feeds that Toyota attempts to convince owners that a lot of problems are "normal service items" instead of actual failures/problems. She has a Corolla now, and has had good luck, with no trips for anything other than normal service on her current car (ie, oil changes,etc).

    Is there a publication (or web-sites, etc.) that I can get more detailed info on this phenomenon?

    Thanks...
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    I would use a search engine such as google to see if the corporate information regarding this is listed. The recent engine sludge problem was another example of this and Toyota ended up taking responsibility for that after lawsuits were presented. I have read about it numerous times on blogs though I have not seen the official corporate letter to dealer service. Doing a brief search this morning just came up with normal wear and tear information which was part of what they are saying but I didn't see what those items were in the search.
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    Here's the link to a site discussing the oil sludge settlement...

    http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2007/01/toyota_sludge_settlement.html
  • Do you have an immobilizer on this car? One of the things an immobilizer does is cut off the fuel supply so that you can't start the car without a programmed key. It's possible that they key or the immobilizer module isn't working right. Have you tried another key?
  • luckinsluckins Posts: 63
    My car has some kind of issue where it "hiccups" when you start it. It only started recently after I changed my spark plugs and wires. It seems to be getting better. I noticed that there is a loud thump coming from the back on the car when it "hiccups", too. Then, the car will run absolutely perfectly for about a week or so before it does it again. It does it about 5% of the time, it will "miss" right at fire-up. The battery, alternator, starter are all fine.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    When you changed your plugs did you by chance drop one. If so its possible the insulator could be cracked causing spark issues. Though this is likely not the case I thought I would throw it out there.
  • luckinsluckins Posts: 63
    No, I was very careful and did everything as close to the "manual" as I could. Today, I had the same problem and it cranked fast, then very slowly, then sped up and started. Also, I remembered that sometimes the starter doesn't disengage after cranking and I get a buzzing sound right after start up that lasts about 2 seconds. So, I definitely think it might be a starter problem. But, I can't convince anyone at the dealership because when I take it in, it starts and runs to perfection. It's funny, after it gives me a really hard time for a few starts, it will start up for exactly 23 times after that perfectly. Then, the car will start to run rough and on the 24th time, it will "skip" or crank slow. Isn't that funny? :confuse:

    Well, I think it's just one of those things that has to totally break before I can take it in and say "see". I might try to work it out so that that 24th time happens on a day off when I can take it in so that they can see I'm not making it up. Problem is, I'm afraid it's just not going to start one day and I work at night. And, this last time it "skipped" it cranked really slow. But, I was playing around with it last night, so I might have worn the battery down by starting it up too much. :blush:
  • grace4evergrace4ever Posts: 30
    Please could you tell me how many quarts of oil on an oil change. I had my oil changed for first time at an oil change place instead of dealership and had a garage floor full of oil when I woike up this morning. Did they overfill or not get filter on correctly? :confuse:
  • kisstinkisstin Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Aveo LS with about 43,600 miles on it. A few days ago i was leaving work and when i started my car, the engine started to shake for about 30 and almost lose power, then proceded to go back to normal.

    This has been happening everytime i start my car. I've also noticed that if i don't wait for the engine to shake and sputter before i drive off, the engine will stall.

    Does anyone know what could be causing this?

    Any ideas on a fix?
  • sedmondssedmonds Posts: 1
    Not sure it's the same issue but I did have my last car doing the same thing and it was a dirty idle air control sensor. Just needed to be cleaned really good. It would start and either run fast or so slow it would die until it warmed up a little. Bad sensor.
  • timsehtimseh Posts: 24
    According to the manual, it's 3.96 Quarts (with filter).

    I'm guessing they left the washer off of the drain plug when they replaced it. I'd be on the phone screaming at the manager if I were you.
  • grace4evergrace4ever Posts: 30
    Hey thanks for your answer.
    Actually that's exactly what I did. I looked at the receipt and it said they had put in 5 qts of oil. I was a madwoman. I had to have my husband take it back because I had to work and he said the man said that the oil filter had not been tighten down enough but that the receipt was computer generated and he had only put 4 qts in. So I guess my crisis is over. I'm so afraid something will screw up my warranty that I won't take it anywhere else but the dealership from now on (and never have before). And another thing!!! - it doesn't cost any less at one of those lube places than it does at the dealership.
  • timsehtimseh Posts: 24
    This is the first car I've had where I've promised myself I'm just going to take it to the dealer for things like oil changes and routine maintenance.

    Partly because I'm lucky enough to work from a home office now, and the dealer has free wireless Internet, meaning it's not a big deal if I have to wait an hour while the oil gets changed. I can keep right on working.

    You're right about the cost, too. These days, it's actually less expensive in my neck of the woods to just get it done at the dealer.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    Your dealer is going to be your best bet for your car maintenance especially if you don't have a regular trusted mechanic. Even if you pay a little more the dealer will have a track record of your maintenance and will be more willing to address any other issue or question in the future being that you seek their service.

    Your owners manual has all the information about quantities of oil and oil filter part numbers, etc. Remember to check your oil yourself from time to time, it is very easy. Moter oil should only be checked when the engine is cold before driving to get accurate results.
  • dettra303dettra303 Posts: 1
    I need to replace the CO2 sensor on my car. It is the one before the catalytic converter. Could someone tell me if this would be easy to do
  • have you figured this problem out. I just started to have problems with starting my 06 aveo, have 82K miles on it. It has a hard time starting and at idling it hic cups and stalls. Also the Ignition Switch is hot to touch. Any one having this problem ?
  • smartiessmarties Posts: 3
    Hello.
    Got a CPU problem with my 2008 Aveo, not even 1500km on it, got the car on the 20/06/2008 and took it to GM on monday (21/07/2008) for repair. It started with some small banging in the trunk area, then one day the car stalled, got it to start again 5 min later.
    For a week after that problem, the car started but the iddle of engin speed was jumping like crazy plus the banging was still there. It the day the car was fine, it's in the morning that the problem came. The ingnition switch is hot too, the dealer do not think it has a link.
    They are going to thake the CPU from an other Aveo (hopping there is no problem with that one) replace, check in the morning if the problem come back. If all goes well, i should have it by thuesday...
    :sick:
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    The warm/hot key thing has been reported here in the past. Is that something totally new for yours or did you just notice it?

    I think you meant you took the car back to Chevrolet because GM is located in Detroit, Michigan, U.S.A..
  • Though my Aveo hatchback is a 2007, it is a new car - one of the 2007 leftovers - that I bought in April of this year. I have gone only 1,000 miles with it, and it is stalling under dangerous circumstances. It is with a Chevrolet dealer who so far has not been able to diagnose the problem. Anybody got any ideas? The car stalled twice in the middle of a highway, and there is no way I am going to drive the car out of the dealership until the problem is diagnosed and fixed, because if the car stalls in the middle of one of the highways all over this area of Florida, there could be a resultant multiple car pileup with injuries and deaths.
    - Burton H Wolfe
  • smartiessmarties Posts: 3
    Well i still don't have my car, been gone since the 21 july now. The mecano changed all the wiering in the car (computer area). Apparentaly it is not the computers they are fine, it is a bad connection between them that is causing the trouble. The guy from GM Canada, the big tech guy, is flying to montreal today cuz they really don't know. They say maybe a relay... :cry:
    I ask to look at the hot key problem, maybe it is link to my problem. I saw it on the net that a few person had this problem with the 2007, but soo far not with the 2008. It is told that a guy had even his CD player melt. My representant from GM think that GM Canada will just give me a new car if the problem is not solved by friday (1/08/2008)
    I just want my car back, i don't like the one they lent my (cobalt LT)
  • Finally getting my car tomorrow morning..17 days later...even the tech from GM had a hard time finding the problem. It is not the relays, not the CPU, not the gas. It was the computer that was touching a metal part of the mounting bracket that was creating a jack. The computer was not getting any info in out out so that would be a reason why the car was stalling in the morning, it didn't know the heat or the octane of the fuel...(this is a really short summary). The hot key problem...well it did not do it a the garage, maybe the jack problem was doing a short??? we'll see in time..
    Soo i almost had a new car :(...but mine has only 1500 km... :shades:
  • This is a followup to my previous message. The engine of my Aveo hatchback stalled again this afternoon while I was driving it. This is the third incident - twice while driving, once while stopped at a red light. This is a car which has just a little over 1,000 miles on it. Though it is a 2007, I bought it new in April of this year (2008). There has been a recall of Aveos before, though not for this particular problem. It looks like it is time for another recall. In any event, I am about to demand that my car be replaced - but NOT with another Aveo. Though I like this car very much, like the way it handles, I no longer trust it. If the engine stalls on a highway - and you have to drive on highways in this area of Broward County, Florida - there could be a multiple car pileup with injuries and deaths.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    Unfortunately, not too many auto dealers domestic or foreign will take cars back because one has a continuing problem. This is not a common practice.
  • aveoctbaveoctb Posts: 5
    Not always true. In PA we have a lemon law that says that if a problem occurs within 12 months / 12000 miles that the dealer fails to fix after 3 or more attempts, they're obligated to either replace the vehicle with a similar vehicle, buy the vehicle back (minus some reasonable amount for wear), or pay you whatever the problem would cost you in resale value. I believe that if arbitration fails and you have to go to court, they're even obligated to pay your legal costs, though I'm not sure.

    If your state doesn't have a lemon law, check your other options as there is a federal lemon law, and you can always seek counsel regardless of specific laws if you feel you've been ripped off:

    http://www.consumeraffairs.com/lemon_law/
  • There is a happy ending, but an embarrassing one for me, to the problem I have encountered with engine stalling. It turns out there is nothing wrong with the car. I was allowing the key to dangle in the ignition from a keycase I use. When the dangling moved the key too quickly or distantly, that caused a change in the position of the switch so as to take the connection out of drive mode, thus cutting off the engine. A perceptive service advisor at the Chevrolet dealership where I took the car for the first three-month service, as well as diagnosis of the problem, finally figured it out. Since dumping the keycase in favor of a single key that stays straight in the ignition, there has been no problem. This goes to show you that sometimes there is a practically unimaginable cause of a mechanical problem that will remain unresolved unless every conceivable aspect is considered, including some factor that is not covered by "the book." You have to persist. I am so glad I did, since I did not really want to try to force Chevrolet to recall and replace my Aveo hatchback because, to the extent it is possible to love a machine, I have loved this car since the first day I drove it. Now I can trust it again, and I am having fun driving it - especially because of the way it handles and because of the gas mileage. For example, I filled the tank on July 16th and by August 10th when I took my next trip to a gas station for another fill-up, the tank was still at the halfway mark. Thanks to all who made suggestions as to possible cause of the stalling.
  • naseathnaseath Posts: 3
    I am having a very similar problem. Mine started when the oil pump gasket blew at 4900 miles on my 2007 Aveo. They fixed the gasket and reinstalled the timing belt incorrectly. They adjusted the timing belt and everything seemed to be okay.

    The next moring it took 3 tries to start and on the last try it seemed to sputter for a few seconds. The idle fluctuated between 500 and 1500 RPM a few times before finally settling at 1500 RPM (high idle). It ran fine after this and I took it to the dealer. They said it had dirty injectors. This surprised me since I mainly use Chevron gas, no cheap gas and it only had 5000 miles total. They cleaned the injectors and gave it back to me. It ran fine and started fine. The next morning it happened again. I left it with them for 4 days and they could not replicate the problem. It has happened 6 times now. in 2 months. It happens about every 2 weeks. Once it starts it has no problems. I can turn it off and start it again without any problems The dealer says they can't fix it because they can't find it.

    You said,
    "It's funny, after it gives me a really hard time for a few starts, it will start up for exactly 23 times after that perfectly. Then, the car will start to run rough and on the 24th time, it will "skip" or crank slow. Isn't that funny?"

    What is the time frame that you are seeing between the 24 times. Do you start it 24 times in row or is this over a few days of driving?

    Have you figured anything out? How many miles does your Aveo have and what year is it?

    Thanks
  • flaaveoflaaveo Posts: 161
    I know that you SHOULD pressure flush most radiators every 2 years, and refill with new coolant, of course. The chemicals in the coolant 'break down' around the 2 year mark, so I have always been told. My questions are.

    (1) Is it still the 2 year mark for flushing the coolant system for the Aveo, or does it have that long lasting coolant in it, that lasts like for 5 years?

    (2) OR would adding one of those pint bottles of Prestone 'Anti Rust/Water Pump Lubricant' additive, be just as good? I drain out like 1 pint of coolant, so it doesn't overflow, and just pour it in the radiator. It is suppose to replace the 'protective chemicals' in the coolant and help lubricate the water pump and make it last longer.

    I did use it in one of my Ford Rangers, at the 3 year mark, and the radiator never had any rust develop. I drive so little...I have a 2006 Aveo Hatchback, and it only has 9,700 miles. Does that change the time period to change the coolant and maybe make this an option?

    Should I spend all that money on an expensive professional flushing? OR spend just $6.00 on a bottle of that radiator coolant additive? Any opinions? I take very good care of my little car. But this is the first 'non warranty' maintenance thing I have had to think about doing, other than oil and filter changes of course.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    Flush every two years unless it has the 5-years Dexicool. Flushing services usually do it for $40-70. It is worth the piece of mind.

    Adding additives doesn't preserve the useful life of the antifreeze.
  • flaaveoflaaveo Posts: 161
    Hey. Thanks for the reply. Do you know if our Aveos have that Dexicool in them? That is the long lasting coolant I was talking about. Isn't it orange or red? I know mine is the plain old green...so its the plain old coolant?? Or do they come with that Dexicool?
  • If you have a lift and can get under the car, no. Sometimes they're hard to reach though and you may need an extension.

    1. Unclip the wires from the exhaust
    2. Use a wrench to loosen the sensor, then hand turn it the rest of the way out
    3. Turn the new sensor into place
    4. Clip the wires back into place

    If you have a SES light from the old sensor, it will usually take a few cycles for it to go off.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    If its green its the regular stuff. Dexicool as you mentioned is orange. I don't think it comes in the Aveo. Chrysler and Ford has their version of it.

    Interestingly, GM has had some issues with Dexicool. It seems that some 3.4, 3.8, 4.3 L engines had some gaskets that couldn't handle the formula leading to manifold gasket leaks and recalls.
  • I had a very similar problem on my 2007 Aveo. I first had a blown oil pump gasket at 5,000 miles. They fixed that and installed the timing belt wrong. They fixed that and then it had the starting issue like you described. Once it would warm up it would be fine. It happened around 6 times at random across 2 months. I took it in and the first time they found that the injectors were dirty at only 5,000 miles. They put in cleaner and it happened again the next day. They couldn't find anything. It then happened about every two weeks. It has now been two months without a problem. I am hoping that it was just some contamination from the oil leak or timing belt problems. They never gave me a straight answer. Did you ever find a solution?
  • This is an update to a posting I did back in August when my thermostat housing broke, last night I drove to the store and when I go back into my car the car started to shake and vibrate then the HOLD LIGHT was flashing. I turned it off and then on and then its fine, lucky the store was only 4 blocks away. What the hell is going on with this car, I hope CHEVY RECALLS these pieces of junk they call cars, I have had nothing but problems since I got it, and now its starting to smell like burn oil. Anyone has had the same problem?
  • I have a 2004 Chevy Aveo (base model). I got my car from a dealership May of this year, and have had nothing but problems. 3 weeks after I bought this car, the cerpintine belt broke and the motor crashed, it tooks months to find the part and $3500 later it's fixed. Now, I've had it back for about a month and the check engine light is on and my car jerks when stopped at lights and while driving. I keep taking it to auto zone and now codes p0700 and p1781 are coming on. Getting that checked out today. Auto zone says that it's a sensor problem, that the computer is sending mixed signals to the transmission, therefore it does not know what to do and when. This is the first American made car that I have owned and it will be last. After this repair, no matter how much it cost, I'll have put more money in repairs than I paid for the actual car and I haven't even owned it for 6 months. Only driven it for about 2 months out of that time. Any help with the codes would be greatly appreciated.
  • Although it probably doesn't make you feel any better, the Aveo is almost entirely South Korean. It's just a rebadged Daewoo Kalos, which is why they have such rotten reliability.

    As for your problem, well.... you could take a long shot on this first if you want: replace the spark plugs with the same kind of plugs you had before it threw the belt if they're different.

    However, in all likelihood when the belt went it destroyed the valves and you're looking at another $1500-$2000 in repairs. If replacing/repairing the head or other valve repair work was already included in that $3500 though, I'd take it back and make them give you a very clear and detailed description of what's currently wrong if they want any significant amount of money to fix the current issue.

    As a follow-up, unfortunately, the timing belts on Aveos are pretty much garbage. They're supposed to be inspected at 30,000 miles, and replaced regardless of condition at, I believe, 50,000. I've never had a car that ever needed a timing belt replaced before 100,000 miles, but I'm not risking it with this heaping pile of junk.

    Sadly, the person you bought it from probably didn't do this somewhat unusual maintenance work.
  • Was it cold on that afternoon. 2005-2006's have had a hard time dealing with cold and their computers. Mine did the same thing, right before the computer died.

    Ron
  • Re: OIL LEAK FROM FILTER [flaaveo] "I know a gasket comes off with every filter. I have never had a gasket NOT come off. "

    I have to admit confusion here. I've changed many a oil filter and have never had to add another gasket to the mix. Isn't the gasket that's already on the filter enough?

    Also, I have a 09 Aveo LS that I intend to change the oil and filter myself... but after reading though the forums and looking at my car I am not sure where the filter or more importantly the drain plug is. I see a few people thought the transmission plug was the oil plug. I just want to make sure. The obvious choice is the plug on the pan on the drivers side. I couldn't find the one "in the middle of the engine block".

    Thanks for any help.
  • I have a 2006. Same issue. Rough idle. It was a broken vacuum line. Purchased a 12" length of line for 96 cents. Problem solved.

    JD
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