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Comments
I apologize for the issues you have had with your vehicle. Have you had the present concerns looked at by the dealership? Or do the concerns still persist? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
Blown head gaskets are not a wear and tear item.
A blown radiator hose can cause overheating and a blown head gasket due to
warping the head.
It is Chevies problem not yours.
Dale
This car has been a strain on our marriage, and needless to say, I will never buy another Chevy as long as I live. "Disposable" is a kind word for this car.
How long has this concern been present? Have you taken it to another dealership for a second opinion? Has a service tech rode with you and experienced the concern as well? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
The only thing I can see is that there is a cell phone tower nearby and some high voltage power lines over head at that place in the road. It doesn't do it every time, but has nearly stalled three times, and often skips. It's worse at night. It's always at the same place on the highway.
Any ideas?
Have you taken your vehicle to the dealer? I look forward to your response.
Christina
GM Customer Service
- Burton, Wolfe, publisher of Mind Opening Books
SP
I would definitely recommend doing so. Please keep me posted.
Christina
GM Customer Service
Since then on a regular basis the car will lose power to the engine; when stepping on the accelerator peddle. The car acts like there is no signals from the accelerator peddle to the throttle assembly. There are days when it does nothing at all. There are times when it happens then the engine will just seem to return to normal, then out of the blue the engine will lose power again. There are never any warnings or check engine lights. None “HAVE EVER” come on. We have taken the car to 3 different Chevrolet dealerships; and to one independent garage; who did have the problem happen once while I was driving with the owner, but the OTC GENISIS Device could not identify what was happening, it just recorded the history of the event. None of the Chevrolet dealers could get it to duplicate or find any codes in the 10 days they had the car. The problem has continued off and on now for almost 6 Months. I have been taking videos with my HTC DROID when the car is having its problem (for all the good that will do). It is like keeping a journal. I show the RPM spikes and drops; the sudden deceleration and the “No response when the gas peddle is pushed. The problem has occurred at all speeds, including when on the freeway. The problem happens at times within the first few minutes of driving; and there are other times it may only happen once or twice in the same day. The car has gone up to two week without the problem happening; then starts again and is even worse for a while. We have already spent over $600 on various (so called fixes); including a complete fuel system cleaning (Including the THROTTLE BODY CLEANING) none have ever helped. I was told By a Chevrolet Dealer it was a bad O2 Sensor (But no check engine light had ever came on). O2 Sensors always cause a check engine light to come on. My wife refuses to drive the car. I think it may be the entire ECU COMPUTER; but no dealer wants to admit that, due to the cost involved.
I'm really upset - this is our family's only car and having to use it for both my wife and I to get to work and for a newborn that needs to go to the doctor for checkups is really stressing my wife out.
Any and all feedback from anyone having a similar issue would be GREATLY APPRECIATED! Thanks.
1) Went to Autozone after checking on this website and researching the internet for others that may have similar problem. Code reader at Autozone gave a P0303 cylinder misfire #3. Thus I bought 4 new spark plugs, Platinum NGK V power to replace the copper tipped NGK from factory. Hoping this might be solution or at least a cheap fix if lucky. After finally figuring out how to take off the black plastic cover to the engine ignition coil pack that had the four spark plugs under it, I changed out the old plugs and put in the new ones.
2) NO LUCK, car did run noticeably better but still flashing yellow engine light and slight rough idle within few miles of driving with new spark plugs. So call dealer and set up appointment to have them run their diagnostic machine check on the Aveo. This will cost you so expect to plunk down at least $75-$100 just for them to hook the machine up to your car but it is worth it.
3) Today I am $307 poorer! Yes, I have over 57250 miles on the car, all highway, so warranty of bumper to bumper was expired and no good. Apparently after doing more research, Aveos seem to all have a problem with their ignition coil or what the dealer calls coil or coil pack or coil bridge which sits on top of the four spark plugs with 4 black rubber boots that look like [non-permissible content removed] on a cow hanging down, literally. Inside those black rubber boots are the spark plug wires. Basically unlike other cars where you can just change out a bad spark plug wire for $25 or less and take out bad spark plug wire and put in good one, Chevy Aveo does not allow for that, YOU will have to buy the entire new coil pack or ignition coil pack, there is no way to fix just one or replace that bad spark plug wire, thus you have to buy the entire coil!
3) After doing much research and seeing other Aveo owners comment and checking ODB code reports, around 30,000 to 60,000 miles on Aveo there is a high probability that you may have a spark plug wire go bad inside this coil pack causing your check engine light to come on or stay on or flash or blink and it may give you the P0303 code. Thought others on here would like to know this so they do not drive themselves crazy trying to figure it out or spend lot of money on other areas trying to fix this problem that are not necessary.
4) I paid $144 for the labor and diagnostic machine reading plus $152 for new coil pack today. I got off easy I thought considering that I priced a new coil pack at Autozone and Oreillys last week and both were $762 - $815 each! I only found one other place online that had the new one for $426 for the coil pack alone. Granted it is not hard and is easy to install this coil pack, simply disconnect the connection plug on side of it, unscrew 2 Torx size 40 screws, lift up coil pack then put the new coil pack in it's place and done, then re-connect connection plug and put back in screws. Only should take 5-10 minutes at most. Key here is finding that coil pack though under $300, just was not able to do it so I took it to the dealer.
5) WARNING For those of you that think, oh what the hell, I can drive it anyway, so what if I lose a little power and light flashes or it idles rough I will get it worked on later when I get time. DO NOT DO THIS. You will ruin many more other parts or components that tie into your emission system, engine system and exhaust system which will screw up the catalytic converter, O2 sensor, and many other miscellaneous parts. The first two mentioned will run $150 for O2 sensor or more and the catalytic converter will run around $1000 or more to fix plus it could even harm engine valves and heads, not counting the labor also.
So it is not worth it. Go get it fixed immediately or stop driving your Aveo until you can have it fixed.
Had mechanic today tell me that he had worked on 3 other Aveos last year that the owners had ignored this warning light and kept on driving the car for many more thousands of miles until it would not hardly run or start at all, then try to have it fixed and ended up causing serious damage to the Aveo and having a several thousand dollar repair bill. Thus if you get one of these flashing engine yellow lights or the light stays on constantly or you go to Autozone and get a code reading of P0303, I strongly recommend you go to your dealer ASAP and or if you know where to find one of those new coil packs for less than $152 you can do it yourself.
Only problems I had during first year of ownership the dealer resolved immediately and did a great job with no hassles. Very pleased with the dealer, it is actually too bad Chevy does not include the actual dealer mechanics in their product design or get ideas or suggestions from them first before building or designing a new car, for it is these people that actually know what will work and last and hold up well as opposed to the engineers that come up with some pretty stupid ideas for design thus causing a lot of problems for the car owner and a lot of needless repairs.
Year 1 - I had to have the weather strips along both driver and passenger door adjusted and built up and re-attached so the howling wind or squealing loud wind noise would stop, and dealer fixed this for me during first year.
Second problem I had and it was covered under warranty also was the front left wheel bearing went out, no big deal, just a slight noise which I knew what it was immediately from past experience owning other car brands having same problem, dealer fixed this as well. This is something that happens and is normal wear and tear, I actually think I did it when I hit a hidden pot hole on I44 turnpike in Oklahoma last Feb running about 75 mph, since right after that I noticed the noise coming from front left wheel. Who knows maybe not. Anyway it was under warranty and got it fixed.
Year 2 - No problems at all, drove for entire second year and no problems other than the fact I had to replace the Hankook factory installed tires. After 27,000 miles they were completely wore out and no good, should have at least lasted 40-50 thousand miles, anyway at the end of year 1, I had new Hankook tires put back on the car, that was not good idea and was a big $300 mistake, I do not recommend Hankook to anyone now, they are not good tires to last, or well you do not get your moneys worth out of them at all, they wear out too fast and are far too expensive since they only last one year or year and half. This second set I have are ready to be replaced now and only have a little over a year and one month driving on highway with them after 30,000 miles. And this was with me rotating the tires 4 times in one year, helped a little bit, I may be able to get through spring and summer but doubt much more longer than that.
Year 3 - Check engine light came on and started flashing within couple blocks of home driving in from work last week, car immediately began to run rough, idle rough, misfire and lose power. I took it to Autozone and had it checked for free next day and got the ODB code P0303 when checked for free at Autozone. Changed out spark plugs, improved the rough idle and loss of power and gas mileage but still it was flashing check engine light and running rough or missing and losing power. Took to dealer yesterday, out of warranty now, I have put on 57,684 miles on it in little over two years, all highway driving 55-65 miles hour for work. Anyway, problem was the spark plug wire inside the ignition coil pack that sits on top of the spark plugs, unable to repair the one wire that was bad, have to buy entire coil. Checked prices at parts stores and best I could find was in $400 range for new coil, thus I ended up paying $307 to have new one installed. $152 for parts and $144 for labor of which $75-$100 of the labor is for the diagnostic hook up to machine that can tell Chevy mechanic exactly what is wrong unlike the Autozone hand held code machine reader you can get them to check with for free. Anyway I spent $14 on new spark plugs also at Autozone and even though they were not in bad shape yet I replaced them, according to manual they are to be replaced every 25,000 miles and no more than 37,000 miles, so I guess 57,000 plus out of them was not bad.
Conclusion - for what I paid for this brand new in Jan 2009, $10,675, I really cannot complain, and overall have been very pleased with the car or well more then pleased since it has exceeded my expectations. It is a manual 4 door sedan LS 2009. The gas mileage has been great. 40-46 mpg on highway driving always at 55-65 or more. The lowest gas mileage I ever got was 33.5 mpg and that was driving all in a city one week in stop and go traffic. Never have had a problem with anything tearing up inside the car, no road noise issues, no body part issues, no squeaks or noises, just the things I listed above. If I could have found a ignition coil pack for the car myself for under $300 I would have done this last repair myself but just the way it goes.
For all of those that have had bad experience, I feel for you that is no fun and expensive, but looks like Chevy is putting the AVEO to rest now this year and will not be building anymore, thus not much more time left for griping or complaining about this model of car! Looks like a new model, the Sonic will debut this fall and take AVEO place. Oh well, now to got look for some deal on new tires. It never ends, all any car ever does is cost a person money to operate them, an ongoing expense necessary to work or live in USA, no more no less than another tool. And well all tools wear out or need to be maintained, just a person hopes to buy a car for small amount of money and hope not to spend a fortune repairing it or keeping it running.
Maybe some day they will make a car like that, I have yet to own a car or truck yet that did not have to have something done to it or repaired or replaced or worked on and I have owned many. I just try now to buy or operate the least expensive model to buy and operate/repair that I can if I can. It changes from model and make each year sadly if a car makers gets one right for one year it seems they always change it in the next year or so it goes and one year model is never the same quality. Go figure.
Anyway here is wishing everyone owning AVEO many trouble free miles of driving.
Today I let my GF drive my car to work on the way home she had called me and told me the engine jolted real hard lost power and then died. When I got there to see what was wrong the car will turn over but not start. Engine shakes a little bit when trying to do so. Car has a little over 134,000miles and has not been hot rodded in any way.
We got the car towed home (thanks triple AAA, I def recommend their membership to anyone who does not have them it will save you a crap load!) my dad first sprayed some starting fluid into the intake, it wont even start from that or act like its going to. we took the spark plug from #1 firing and conducting a test with a curtain hanger and a long wire connected to #1 on the cap and grounded it and started.. it has spark.. so no issues there. When we try to start it just turns over and thats it.
I dont think the timimg belt is broke bc the engine is not locked up. however we can not take it back to the same shop that did the work because we had to sign something for them to fix the tensioner for the 2nd time for free because they gave us hassle and the document basically says their not liable after any issues occur after its fixed.
All the lights light up like normal when the key is on, I can hear the fuel pump turning on when the key is turned so I dont think thats the issue, where should we start? Is it possible that it jumped time. Any suggestions would be helpful at this point before we tear it down and start trouble shooting, I think the first thing is to see if it did infact jump time, and maybe the 2nd tensioner went bad, wont know until we pull it apart. Thanks for looking and for your time! I look forward to seeing your responses.
I hope this is helping everybody with the same problem. Make sure each reports this problem to GM, so they can make a decission to make a serious recall since it is not safe to drive the car , plus the diagnostic is not reading a darn thing, neither is any warning light coming on in the vehicle.
I am glad to hear your dealer was able to fix your concerns. I most definitely agree anyone experiencing issues should report their issues to GM. If you have any questions comments or concerns please feel free to email me directly.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I can understand your frustration, but don't condemn the car prematurely.
OTOH, DO "hold the dealer's feet to the fire" and have them diagnose and correct the problem.
Burton
Tricia, GM Customer Service.
when the car was at a stop light while idling. Once just after starting the car it started idled stopped. The fourth time we attempted to drive this vehicle dead battery that the tow driver (we called triple a forgetting about the warranty) Triple A said this battery wont hold its charge. So was of right now hate to say it but there seems to be an Ground wire problem with this Aveo.
Thank you for the updates. Please continue to work with your dealership. Keep me posted on any information from dealership.
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
Could you please email me your VIN? I would like to look further into your situation.
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
I would like to set up a case with GM Customer Assistance. In order to start the process I will need your complete contact information (including full name, mailing address and phone number), current mileage and involved dealership sent to me in an email. Also, could you please provide a brief description of the problems you are experiencing?
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
Rodger