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Hyundai Santa Fe Basic Maintenance Questions

2

Comments

  • tman16tman16 Member Posts: 4
    well I am back from dealong wit the paint problem and notning was solved at all..but 3 dealers wanted to sell me a new cr..i dont want new one just paint mine..my next step is to file a compliant to BBB and then i wil go to the news.no one will cover my paint
  • johnboyy2gjohnboyy2g Member Posts: 11
    Your dealer cannot claim a head gasket failure was caused by self change of oil. That is why they backed down, they knew they would lose.

    The fact that they tried not to honor your warrenty is because they have poor customer service and are disruputable.

    I would not buy from this dealer and would recommend to eveyone to avoid this dealer...how long do you think they will stay in business if this got out?

    Buy the way, the only dealers I've heard of that have tried this are in Texas and New York,,,,where are you located?
  • johnboyy2gjohnboyy2g Member Posts: 11
    replace the gas filter and check the air filter, also the egr valve.
  • johnboyy2gjohnboyy2g Member Posts: 11
    The two wheel drive Santy can be towed with a standard tow truck....the All Wheel Drive (4x4) or AWD cannot be towwed with a standard tow truck, you must have them use a flat bed truck.

    This would be the same for any PERMANENT AWD or 4x4 that cannot have the hubs manually released. Towing these vehicles will destroy the transmission/diff. :cry:
  • johnboyy2gjohnboyy2g Member Posts: 11
    Anyone bought one of the diagnostic computers, or one that can also reprogram the chips?
  • johnboyy2gjohnboyy2g Member Posts: 11
    Anyone tried any of the aftermarket add-on computers that modify the air mass sensors? Or any thing like that?
  • jjbelchajjbelcha Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me about the fog lights. Do I need to buy a replacment buld or a whole new fog light assembly?
  • nomoresantafenomoresantafe Member Posts: 2
    rwolf,

    you are the very first person we have encountered that has had the same safety issue as we have had with a 2003 santa fe. to make a very long, bureaucratic story short, we tried numerous times at the dealer, with a hyundai factory rep at the dealer, with hyundai of america and with the maryland attorney general's office to rectify the issue to no avail: they could never replicate the problem with their diagnostics hooked up so in their mind there wasn't an issue. we lost our lemon law grievance (and all respect for hyundai since they denied our offer to keep the santa fe until the issue arose). we'd be interested to hear your story!

    nomoresantafe
  • nomoresantafenomoresantafe Member Posts: 2
    all,

    just wanted to validate what our dealer told us regarding the 60K service. call it once bitten, twice shy, but he claimed that if we opted not to do the 60K service and replace the timing bely, at 60,001, the warranty would be voided for any damage caused by a subsequently broken timing belt. True or not true?

    nomoresantafe
  • michaelw2michaelw2 Member Posts: 11
    also curious

    my dealer told me even if I do not change engine oil at 3month/3thousand mile, will invalidate all the warranty, even in the owner manual it said 7500 miles( correct me if i am wrong).

    the more tricky part is what if I change it at 4 month or 3100 miles? will it also be ok?

    I guess it really depends on hyundai's reputation on warranty.
  • don33don33 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have a 2005 santa fe in Dubai, UAE...and have the same problem.....car occasionaly "hiccups" whilist cruising on the motor way at 90 kpm.
    Anybody have a solution ?
    Regards
    Don
  • tmbmtmbm Member Posts: 1
    Hi I have a 2004 Santa Fe. Had it inspected today and the guy at Midas showed me the transmission and coolant fluids. Said at 27,800 miles the trans. fluid should not be black!! Also the overflow container had no coolant in it. The temp was only set for 20 below. Here in upsate NY should be set for 35 below. Went to the Hyundai dealer where we are leasing from and he said both should be taken care of ASAP for over $400!!!!!!!!! Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • patrick7600patrick7600 Member Posts: 1
    Hi ohiojim
    Saw your post about changing the timing belt on your 2002 v6 santa fe. I have a 2001 4wd auto 6 cyl santa fe and am thinking of changing the timing belt and water pump on it myself. How did you get on when you changed you t-belt. What problems did you encounter, what sources of information did you find useful? Did you need any special tools/computers
    Was the job worth while doing yourself? I am mechanically minded learner just changed the t-belt on my girlfriends vw jetta using bentely manual

    Thanks in advance for your help
    Patrick
  • mhumble73mhumble73 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 05 Santa Fe with the 2.7 V6 engine. I am going to start doing oil changes myself but can't figure out from the manual how much oil, with filter change, the car takes? Is it 4.2 or 4.8? Also, how much transmission fluid on the auto tranny?
    Thanks for any help.
  • teacher447teacher447 Member Posts: 21
    I'd like to change the coolant in the radiator of my 2004 SF. There is a plastic plate under the radiator. Is there another way than to remove it to get to the radiator petcock?
  • evolutionmanevolutionman Member Posts: 4
    My wife sewed a terry cloth towel with a zipper on one end(make it slightly larger than the base of the child seat). Into this she placed a piece of foam mattress block. She placed this cushion unit between the leather seat in the back and placed the child seat on top of it. After 4 years, whenever we've had to clean the back, the leather was protected from scuffing and the foam block cushioned the leather seat from imprinting. Be sure to condition the leather seat in its entirety whenever you clean to maintain its suppleness and texture. ;)
  • dxnarcissusdxnarcissus Member Posts: 1
    Get that sucker serviced. My vehicle caught fire w/ relations to the timing belt. see: www.flaminghyundai.blogspot.com. You will not find mention of the timing belt there, but I assure you it was part of the problem, as well as the water pump, and clashing pistons/valves. Thank you.
  • joblackjoblack Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2003 2.7 V6 and need to change my timing belt shortly, as I have 59,000+ miles. Do I need to do "all" of the 60,000 maintenance in order to keep my warranty in tact or can I do portions of it? (I was told that instead of the 60,000 maintenance, I could do a Transmission Flush Service and a Coolant Flush Service instead). Also, I was given a price for the 60,000 maintenance which included the spark plugs, but was told the wires would cost an additional $85.00. Does that make any sense?? Thank you.
  • wjanerwjaner Member Posts: 25
    I would love to get a reply from one of you maintainance engineers out there in Hyundai land. I have a 2003 santa fe 4 cylinder. I desire to change the radiator coolant. I have the factory maintainance manual but it does not show an engine drain plug for the coolant.
    The coolant capacity is two gallons total. When I drain the radiator only one gallon will drain out.
    I found a plug on the rear of the engine block in a very inaccessable area so I want to be sure before I start the attack strategy.
    I know someone out there in Hyundai land can come through and help me. Man is great, man is powerful and man can do it. Please don't let me down Man!!
    Sparcap54
  • dkellyrocksdkellyrocks Member Posts: 1
    I just had my 2004 Sante Fe in for an oil change (not at the dealer) last week and they old me that the oil sensor switch is leaking and I need to take it to the dealer to get it fixed under the warrenty. Before we could get it to the dealer my daughter took it for a weekend out of town trip. On the way back the engine started making noise. It sounds real bad now. There is oil all under the body and the back window of my car. I had it towed to the dealer today and am afraid that since I didn't have the oil changes there and may not be able to produce all the receipts, I may have a problem. Anyway, was wondering if anyone else has had a problem with the oil sensor switch. :confuse:
  • srdriversrdriver Member Posts: 48
    My wife has a new Tucson and I am in the process of buying a new 2007 Santa Fe.

    Understand both vehicles call for 5W20 oil.

    Was wondering what brands people are using.

    I don't use the quick lube places and normally have the dealer change the oil but may start doing myself with Hyundai Oil Filters?

    About the only place you can get the cartridge type filter that the 3.3 liter engine uses is the dealer.
  • pelican19pelican19 Member Posts: 323
    Since the dealer price on oil changes are not much more than quick lube I wouldnt change unless your in a hurry. Reputable Hyundai dealers do much more than change the oil. They give your vehicle a quick inspection to make sure all is ok. Many times an issue with the car may not require a re-call but does require the dealer to inspect and correct if needed. For example, my wife has the Entourage, although there was nothing wrong with her brake lights when I brought it in for an oil change I noticed they were under the dash. Finding this a strange place to be for an oil change I questioned it. Turned out some wiring could rub the brake pedal over time and short so they were correcting the problem before it became a short.
  • mrmagoo1mrmagoo1 Member Posts: 15
    Use a hair dryer, keep it moving and SLOWLY remove any of the emblems (except the large "H" in the chrome circle, it will leave a hole).
  • mrmagoo1mrmagoo1 Member Posts: 15
    The dealer has it, but it's a little pricey, same as their duplicate key, at least the car is reasonably priced.
  • mrmagoo1mrmagoo1 Member Posts: 15
    The 2007 has a "drop in" oil filter, which is reached under the top plastic shield/plate on the engine. Has anyone changed their own oil with this filter. Any tricks or tips. Also, where do you get 5-20w oil? Thanks very much.
  • srdriversrdriver Member Posts: 48
    I plan on 3,000 mile changes. Have just over 1,000 miles on my 3.3 Liter 2007 Santa Fe now and plan on using the same 5W20 oil that we use in my Wife's Tuscan.

    Had thought about changing my own oil but now the plan is letting the dealer do it.

    I will furnish the oil and will be using Motorcraft 5W20 Semi-Synthetic oil that one can buy at Wal-Mart, or Havoline 5W20 oil.

    Have read good things about Hyundai oil filters.

    If your dealer has 5W20 oil, you can let him do everything including furnishing the oil.

    Many dealers use bulk 5W30 or 10W30 oils and that is the reason I bring my own oil.

    Being retired we make quite a few short trips around town and that is the reason I will stick with 3,000 oil changes.

    Plan on going on a 2,500 + mile trip next month and will have the oil changed just before heading out.

    I never go to the quick lube places + they will not have the oil filter for the 3.3 liter engine.

    At least here we find oil and filter changes cost less at the dealer too.
  • edmac1edmac1 Member Posts: 36
    You say "Many dealers use bulk 5W30 or 10W30 oils and that is the reason I bring my own oil." This is interesting since the manual recommends 5W20 and I would think that dealers would use the recommended weight. Also, you mention supplying the oil yourself. I don't know of any dealer, service station, or jiffylube where I live (Maryland) that will allow you to provide your own oil. They make part of their profit by charging you $3 a quart for oil they buy for 50 cents.
  • srdriversrdriver Member Posts: 48
    Dealer here has no problems with you furnishing your own oil. The 3.3 liter engine takes a special cartridge filter which as far as I am aware, is only available at the dealer.

    If you change your own oil, you can buy the filter at their parts department along with the O rings and crush washer that you need.

    I am operating under the assumption that the dealer will charge approximately the same rate for the service whether you furnish your own oil or not?

    Don't think you will find any of the quick lube places that have the cartridge filter + I have read that the OEM filters get great reviews.
  • mrmagoo1mrmagoo1 Member Posts: 15
    Went to dealer for oil/filter change. After checking level at home, found it to be about 1/2 quart over full mark. I would much rather do it my self. Also, they used 10W-30, I asked re that and they said they spoke with manufacturer and it's o.k. Well, maybe, but I would like to stick w/5-20W. The only thing that stops me is the "tightness" of the cap on filter cartridge. Anyone had experience w/this? Thanks for all the great info!
  • mr_magoomr_magoo Member Posts: 3
    Yes, the oil filter cap is tight. I used a strap wrench to loosen and tighten it. There was a reference set of matching marks, so I would know how tight to tighten the cap. Also, the oil level does vary quite a bit between first shutting down the engine and letting the vehicle sit. It varies much more then any vehicle I have ever owned. It is probably partially due to filter sitting up high and draining over time. I have only changed oil once, but I also noticed something else. The oil level seemed different after driving the vehicle. IOW, I normally let the car idle after an oil change then rev a little to circulate the oil. I then recheck the level. I did this with the 07 SF and oil level appeared fine. I drove the vehicle the next day, parked in same spot and the level was different. I will try to replicate this scenario during next oil change. The manual says wait 5-minutes from engine shut-down to check level. Like I already said, this vehicle varies oil level much more than any I've owned. HTH
  • srdriversrdriver Member Posts: 48
    The filler cap on both our 2007 Santa Fe and Tuscan clearly states use 5/20 oil. Some dealers and quick lube places use bulk 10W30 oil if you don't keep an eye on them + as I had previously mentioned that the quick lube places do not have the oil filter that Hyundai uses on the 3.3 Liter Engine.

    The following web site has quite a bit of info on oil and other maintenance related items.

    Link To Oil Info

    I think that any SM GF4 5W20 oil will work well for 3,000 mile changes.
  • aqateanaqatean Member Posts: 1
    My friends, does anyone reads manuals anymore. It states that HYUNDAI recommends "Quaker State", you can use 5W-20, 5W-30 or 10W-30, I believe the thickness depends of where you live; I just replace my wife's 2007 Santa Fe SE (at 3000 Miles) oil with 10W-30 because we live in Houston, I could not believe it when I saw the old oil, it was very dark, so I hope next oil change (6000 Miles) looks a little cleaner with the type I just put. As for the Oil filter, I did not replace it because I couldn't find it, next time I will thanks to a tip in this website. I check around and STP and Frame has it, you can get it Autozone and Walmart, it is a cylinder that looks as it is an air filter-no metal case. Personaly, I won,t spend extra money in doing this type of maintenance. Good luck! :shades:
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    We just kicked around oil changes and the "3,000 mile oil change myth" over in the CR-V maintenance discussion. And you can't tell out how dirty your oil is simply by looking at it. Many of us do what the manufacturer recommends. :shades:

    terryp1, "Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair" #5317, 11 May 2007 1:45 pm
  • davesuvdavesuv Member Posts: 149
    Difficult question since so much is dependent on your driving style. With over 8000 miles on my tires, they show very little wear. I anticipate well over 30 thousand miles before they need replacement. I will likely replace them sooner, just to get a tire with better traction ratings for safety reasons.

    I've never had any vehicle that required brake pad replacement prior to 80,000 miles. Then, I always use a light touch on the brakes (unless one of the many crazy drivers on the road forces something a little more drastic :) ). I have no reason to expect differently with the Santa Fe.

    2007 Santa Fe AWD Limited with Premium and Touring packages
    Dark Cherry Red with beige leather interior
  • flwonderflwonder Member Posts: 33
    Davesuv:

    How are you caring for the beige leather interior?
    I love the beige but feel like it would be a
    nightmare to keep clean along with the beige carpet.

    Any thoughts?

    Flwonder
  • jcwsbltdjcwsbltd Member Posts: 167
    If you have the beige carpet, I found a great looking set of similar colored floormats at Walmart for $24-95 iwth a darker beige insert that looks like they were meant for the car.
    I also found a cheap light brown floor mat big enough for the cargo area.

    I had leather on my old SUV which was a Taupe shade and it wore pretty well . I just used proprietary leather cleaner and conditioner on it, which worked just fine.
  • jcwsbltdjcwsbltd Member Posts: 167
    Thanks for the reply, Davesuv.After having read such useful stuff in these posts, It's always a pleasure to exchange experiences - it helps the learning curve for us all.

    I was hoping for 50K miles for these tires with regular rotations at 5k or so. The 18" tires are more expensive to buy.

    My last set of tires on a front wheel drive SUV obviously wore most on the front set,which I also had to replace at 35k. I had another set put on at 70k, so both sets lasted for 35k. I could have pushed them further, as they had just a small amount of tread left before the markers, but that's just not worth it. I shall have more regular rotations on the S.F.
  • lv2drvlv2drv Member Posts: 132
    flwonder, I know you asked davesuv but I can't help myself. I bought Leather Master cleaning and conditioning products. I haven't used the cleaner yet as I conditioned the leather right away. We are using those plastic mats with the deep tread that traps the snow, dirt and water to protect the carpet. Our SF came with the plastic liner and it stays in place at all times. There are frequent heel and shoe marks on the threshold so I use the Mr. Clean Magic eraser for these. Works like a charm! I'm always cleaning and babying my baby. My husband probably thinks I'm obsessed, but he's sweet to never say anything.
  • davesuvdavesuv Member Posts: 149
    I also really like the brighter interior of the beige leather. It, together with the sunroof, give a very open feel to the vehicle. Just like lv2drv, I like to try to take care of my interior. Kind of surprising for me since I've never bothered about it too much with my prior cars. There's something about this Santa Fe that gives me that extra incentive.

    I use Meguiar's Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner/Conditioner (comes in a spray bottle) on my leather seats. It does a nice job of taking any dirt off and keeping the leather soft. For most other surfaces, I use a product called Tech Stain Remover ( web site ). It's safe for the surfaces and does a nice job on stains. My wife really likes it for around the house.

    I bought a nice set of rubberized floor mats in a tan color that goes nicely with the beige interior. My SF came with the Hyundai ones, but I find from past cars that the lighter color carpet type floor mats quickly get dirty and are tough to keep looking nice (I've always had beige interiors). So I took the original ones out from the front and replaced them with a set of heavy duty tan rubber SUV-sized mats with deep grooves (bought them at Meijer). They fit perfectly without trimming. Now I can just take them out and hose them off and scrub them when I wash the car and they look great. I even cut out a hole in each mat to fit over the retention pin in the floor. For the second row, I just put the smaller rear seat tan rubber mats on top of the Hyundai mats. I did not get anything extra for the third row and just use the Hyundai mat there since it is rarely used. I have the Hyundai cargo tray to protect the rear cargo space floor.

    So far, my interior still looks like brand new :shades:

    2007 Santa Fe AWD Limited with Premium and Touring packages
    Dark Cherry Red with beige leather interior
  • flwonderflwonder Member Posts: 33
    lv2drv:

    Thanks for your help. Sounds like you
    are taking good care of the light interior.

    Flwonder
  • flwonderflwonder Member Posts: 33
    Thanks davesuv. I knew I could count on
    you for the answer. I have used the heavy,
    expensive mats on my last two cars. Got them
    from McNeils. They do a good job. Looks
    like the light beige will require a bit more
    maintenance but worth it.

    Flwonder
  • kdahlquistkdahlquist Member Posts: 130
    Brake pad replacement intervals vary greatly from vehicle to vehicle, environment to environment, and from driver to driver. Typically, heavier vehicles will go through brake pads more quickly than lighter vehicles. Front pads wear more quickly than rears, and cars with more front weight bias will wear the fronts even more rapidly (pickup trucks, for example, burn front pads very quickly because they are heavy vehicles with a large proportion of the weight on the front, so the rear brakes don't do much at all). If you drive mostly in stop-and-go urban traffic, you'll wear a lot more quickly than someone who drives long stretches on the highway or rural roads with few intersections. Finally, how much you use the pads will make a difference. If you drive smoothly and let your car slow down gradually (rather than carrying a lot of speed into corners and stops and then braking hard), you'll wear your pads more slowly.

    That said(tm), I've seen front pads need replacement as early as 20,000 miles (rarely) and as late as 100,000. Replacement of front pads in the 50-75,000 mile range is fairly typical. I start checking mine periodically once I hit 40,000 miles.
  • mak259mak259 Member Posts: 1
    I just changed the oil in my 2007 v6 Santa Fe today after finding out where the oil filter was from the previous post.
    To add to it, remove the 4 nuts and 2 bolts from the plastic cover (use a 10mm socket) and remove the cover.
    The oil filter is under a large black round cover on the right side, close to the air intake.
    Spin it off by hand or use a regular oil filter wrench. The Fram CH9999 filter came with new o-rings for the end of the shaft, that the oil filter goes over, and the cap.
    I used Castrol Syntec 5W-30 (also available in 5W-20).
    I changed the oil at 6500 miles (manual recommends 7500).
    I think the "every 3000 mile" campaign is a scam.
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    Last week I had an oil chg at the dealer on my 3.3L 2007 SE Santa Fe. I asked what weight Pennzoil they used and they replied 5W30! When I asked why they said it was because of the wild temp swings we have...(summers are usually 50's night and up around 100 or higher in the day, that was why. You rarely even see a cloud in the summer

    Winters are usually low 20's or high teens nights and low 50's in the day . High Desert of Reno Nevada (about 5000ft level at my house)

    Their reply sounded reasonable, that because of the severe temp swings we have here

    They only chg $32 so I figured why mess with it for that price...I am used to doing my own...(gotta protect that warranty...No squiggle room for anyone!!)

    BTW: there are TWO Castroil synthetics...the common one is made here and is not the same high quality as the German one...the common one is marked for use in the USA only on the back. I think Pep boys carries the higher grade Castroil Synthetic (Used to drive a Mini Cooper and found out on their forum! With the heat thrown out by that little supercharged engine...you wanted to use the good stuff!

    if they try it on the winter oil chg, I am bringing my own 5W20 with me. That would make for easier starting and better engine running in the cold of winter here, although we usually have low 50's day and low 20's nights in the winter....this year it got down to -2 a few times!!!! I had a Honda Element then and it used 5w20...glad it did since it took quite a while to warm that 4 banger up to running temp at that ambient temp! (I kept it in my garage too, where the SF now resides)

    BTW: My dealer is a good one and has been very cooperative. I showed up 4 months after purchase, the GM walked by and actually remembered my name when he stopped to chat! Then and again, maybe it is because it took 4 trips and numerous phone calls to sell me...(thanks to this forum!) he even remembered the Element I traded :shades:

    COMMENTS PLZ??
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    I forgot to mention that we have terrible UV here in Reno that will fade out leather, vinyl, plastics, rubber and just about anything. In the summer, you rarely even see a single cloud!!!! The higher you go, the more UV on your interior

    I learned about 303 Protectant when I had my all leather Mini Cooper. It does not leave a visible trace, and works like a charm. You can usually get it at Hot tub stores or RV places and it is well worth the $$.

    With Leather, I would first use Connaly (spelling?) Hide Food conditioner and then after it dried, put the 303 over it. Hide Food conditioner is recommended by Rolls Royce if that means anything...the leather in the Mini Cooper was Cordova and very soft and supple....we took many trips to the mountains at over 7500 ft and the leather never showed a trace of cracking or color fade. There were Minis in our group, where the Vinyl or leather had obviously not been treated to anything and it showed....No, I do not work for them either! :)

    We all (we had a great Mini Cooper Club) took a great deal of pride in the Mini's detailing and I used the 3 step Mequires wax system with a porter cable random orbital polisher...If you are REALLY into it...use a CLAY BAR before waxing...it will come out like a baby's behind...Of course the SF is a BIT bigger to wax than the Mini was :)
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    the manual says it is ok to use 5w30 as an alternative anyway...
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    Thanks somedai1...I saw that but I still want 5W20 in the winter time! Not looking for alternatives unless I have no choice!!!
  • jcwsbltdjcwsbltd Member Posts: 167
    Anyone have any preferences about prtotecting new paint on our Santa Fe's? When I asked about waxing/UV protectant at the auto supply shop, the rep. said when it comes to a new car, don't even use the automatic car wash for at least a year - hand wash it only with a mild car soap.
    That's great if it's only 72 deg. outside - not 108.

    Has anyone already done a paint protectant treatment? - results? Good/bad? Does it invalidate the warranty on the finish? When WOULD be agood time to do it - Phoenix has high UV and 355 days a year full sunshine - 10 days of rain a year if we're lucky.

    Any info greatly appreciated.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Wax is for glamour, not protection. :shades:

    Mr_Shiftright, "Teflon Paint Sealants Revisited" #7, 10 Jul 2003 10:33 am

    There's a lot of posts about various kinds of wax (and paint protection is generally wax) you may want to skim over in Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts) while waiting for responses in here. And check out Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair too.
  • mpuzachmpuzach Member Posts: 635
    ...NEVER take it to a car wash. It will come back with swirls and spiderweb scratches after one trip through. I've had excellent success using the Mr. Clean AutoDry System, microfiber cloths, and an electric leaf blower. The Mr. Clean System is a $20 item (Target, Wal Mart) that provides a final rinse with deionized water; you simply wash (with microfiber cloth), rinse (with regular water), do a final rinse with deionized water, then let the car air dry. The end result is a clean car with ZERO waterspots and ZERO spiderweb scratches. (After the final rinse, I use the leaf blower to blow off 95% or so of the remaining water; this helps to ensure that there won't be any spots.)

    We have 3 cars, all less than 2 years old. The above procedure is the only one that's ever been used on any of our cars. All 3 cars are completely free of spiderweb scratches. The keys are:

    Washing in a shaded area
    Using the Mr. Clean AutoDry System
    Using only clean microfiber cloths to wash
    Rinsing the cloth in a bucket of plain water after washing each section of the car
    Letting the car air dry (use of leaf blower is OK) so that nothing comes in contact with finish during drying
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