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Then on November 8, 2009, I noticed that the driver side power windows wasn’t working anymore as it would go halfway up then go back down when closing it. It would take several presses on the power window button to finally get the window back up. Again I called the dealer regarding this and would have it repaired on my 1000 kilometres preventive maintenance call which I had scheduled with the dealer for November 13, 2009.
But on November 11, 2009, at around 5 PM as I was cruising at around 70 to 80 kph on a Highway, the car’s engine suddenly and without warning abruptly died on me, the “engine malfunction” indicator came up, the oil pressure, battery warning, ESP lights came on. The steering wheel of the car started to freeze up making controlling the vehicle very hard, and the brakes became non-responsive. I was almost hit from behind by an SUV and several other vehicles blew their horns at me. I was just barely able to force the steering wheel to point at the shoulder and park there. On the shoulder, I turned the car keys to the off position and then tried to restart the engine. Upon putting the keys back to the ON position, Engine Malfunction indicator already on, on start up, the engine cranks up but wouldn’t start.
I called up Ford’s Emergency Roadside Assistance who sent a tow-truck to pick up the vehicle. I waited 3 hours for their tow-truck to arrive. I was left in shock with the incident but thankful that I was apparently not hit during that engine failure and I had no one waiting for me when I was stranded on the highway for 3 hours. I rode with the tow truck back to the and didn’t accompany them back to the dealer for delivery of the defective car.
I overlooked the initial problems with the vehicle as I thought these inconvenient but minor problems with the car. I had gotten their 5 year warranty and a comprehensive insurance with Act of God coverage for peace of mind. I reasonably felt safe about my purchase. But when the November 11, 2009 incident happened, it was the straw that broke the camel’s back. I was almost hurt during that incident, I NO LONGER FEEL SAFE driving that car. I’m not the only one using that car; I don’t want to place the lives of my family who rides with me in danger.
Ford Group Philippines said that the culprit was a faulty “PCM”, basically the computer module which controls the engine’s power. They said they had replaced the faulty PCM unit and the car is now in good running condition. But even if they have changed the faulty part, what caused that part to break down in the first place? The car was running fine before it happened and it just suddenly dies. I don’t think there is really a way to reassure me that what happened on November 11, 2009 wouldn’t happen again with that particular car. As prior to that major incident, there were at least 3 other faults with this supposedly brand new vehicle.
I am requesting the dealer/Ford Philippines that the unit I bought from them be replaced with another unit entirely and to make sure that this type of thing never occurs again as it appears they have poor quality control upon releasing so called brand new units.
It's really been frustrating as the Philippines has poor consumer rights but I expected more from a Global company. The vehicle was assembled here in the Philippines in Ford's local plant. I have talked to the consumer officer at ford and the manager of the dealer and they just told me the unit was now repaired and in good "running conditon". I don't want that car anymore. It's dangerous.
Since about 90K miles I notice the following problem.
When there is a snow on the road engine jerks time to time.
Only when it is snow, not rain.
Approximately once per couple minutes.
Feels like engine stops running for a a brief moment, but so far does not stall.
Check Engine light is off.
This is very annoying because such jerks are not good for transmission and I am afraid at one showy day engine could stall.
I was in mechanical shop couple times with this issue but no luck.
Some wires were replaced but it did not help.
What this could be?
let me know..Ps - Use good qualty parts on plugs & wires
As I can guess snow gets into some sensitive area of engine.
Have no idea what it could be.
Cliff
Not long ago, my dad had to replace the head on it for me and since then, I've been having all these issues....
This weekend I'm having the right-rear wheel bearing done and the EGR valve replaces (along with anything else that might need replacing....have to wait and see until he can get in there to look at it)..
Anyone else having similar issues? Or any ideas on what could be going on?
Vacuum leak? EGR sticking open? Just a POS?
Take a butane torch, do NOT lite it, turn it on and go around all intake ports at cyl head. also run it around all vuc.ports. If you the eng smooth out, you have than found your vac leak.
stay in touch
Cliff
Has anyone any ideas on this one please?
take it off. Take it for a ride & see if you now have better power, if so, you have a plugged catalic converter. If that does not fix it, check your timing belt ( if you have 1. not sure ) if you
do, line up the timing mark on the crank pully with the notch on the ft cover, remove belt cover and look for timing mark on cam sprocket, it should be at 12 noon, if it's at the bottom, rotate the crank 360 * and recheck. If belt is worn it may have jumped a tooth or 2. If you have a timing chain,under the valve cover, disregard the belt info.
Let me know what you find
clifford20@comcast.net
You fine people seem to have had many of these problems, any ideas of what I can do next without having to spend the money at the dealer? I have already changed plugs and wires, cant find a vacumn leak.
Thanks
Lou is St Louis
Something else you might try. taking your throttle posistion sensor, loose from the air intake
tube and see if the idle comes down.
Cliff
Auto trans ?
This morning, I noticed that finally the Check gas cap light is on. I quickly secured the Motorcraft part and replaced the generic cap. The warning light has not yet gone off. Is there a built in "Buffer" or delay set into the electical warning light system.? I figure It took a number of days for the light to go on, will it be likewise when shutting off?
Thanks for the quick reply. I will not need to try any of these remedies, which seem to very logical ( first thing to do is re-boot, of course).
This morning, very quietly, the sensors did their job and turned the warning light off. Quite symetrical, I must say. It took about the same time to activate the warning light as to de-activate.
So I will attach the tether on this replacement Motor Craft cap, it is a keeper. $34 well spent. My next time in Benington the generic cap hopefully can be returned.
we reolaced the intake manifold (plastic) aqnd were left holding a suction hose that we don't know where to connect? the dealer has no clue,and so do local mechanics. the engine light is on and it calls for the oxygen senser to be changed but we feel that the vacuum hose needs to be connected first.
anybody has an idea out there we would appreciate.
thanks
Z
Cliff
I will get back as soon as it dries out around here.
Cliff
Cliff
PS If you hose down engin at the car wash cover coil save $75.00
My 2003 ford focus SE has been jerking and not speeding up, ( stales) so I changed my spark plugs, and cords but it didn't help. I look at my car and notice that my crank case relief hose and valve is wearing, ( I took a picture to ford), could this be the problem.
washington
I drove about 90 miles round trip yesterday, with no problems.
Any thoughts?