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Comments
Thanks for the note. I was able to isolate the problem to the circuit board behind the instrument panel. See my post #201 with a link to detailed instructions with photos for the fix. By re-soldering the connector pins on the board, all of the problems went away. And it only cost me a couple of hours. The first time, I only re-soldered three of the pins but some of the problems re-surfaced. I repeated the process and this time made sure that the solder on all 9 pins melted and I added a small amount of new solder to each pin.
In addition, I examined the entire back of the circuit board with a magnifying glass and found several other sloppy solders with thin threads of solder bridging circuit board conductors. These could easily cause a short and the type of symptoms I observed. The circuit board also had gobs of rosin around many of the solders. This rosin should have been cleaned with a solvent when the circuit board was manufactured. Old rosin can collect dust and moisture and cause problems. I carefully removed the rosin with an Exacto knife and then cleaned the affected areas with dry-cleaning fluid and a Q-Tip.
I have not experienced problems since.
While I had the instrument panel out of the dash, I also looked for evidence of water leaking in around the windshield because others on this site suggested that this could be a problem. I'm on my 4th windshield on this vehicle and found no evidence of moisture or corrosion anywhere behind or beneath the dash. So this does not seem to be relevant in my case.
If one circuit board has the number of bad/sloppy solders, it suggests bad quality control and it is likely that others have the same problem.
My fix is consistent with your remedy (replacing the unit) only it does not cost anything. I am convinced that many of the electrical problems reported on this site can be traced to bad/sloppy solders on the instrument panel circuit board.
Thanks
link title
Since re-soldering all nine of the connector pins on the circuit board and cleaning the sloppy solders and rosin from the back of the board, I have driven 1000+miles with no problems whatsoever. This has clearly solved the problem.
2 days later the problem was still happening, only now the door locks and windows stopped working. They make a sound like they want to work, but no dice. The door locks actually sound like they're straining to open for some reason, and the windows just make a noise. The radio and heat and a/c work fine. Does anyone have any ideas that can help me? Could this be connected to the anti-theft system at all?? Thanks!!!
Thanks,
Is this electrical in nature..did I short something..or just a setting I need to re-enable.
It comes from the leaking windshield.
Look up my photo series and fix on the ford truck enthusiasts web site under electrical insanity.
Oh wait ... I found it:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/443324-electrical-insanity.html
There is water in your relay box just above and left of the steering column.
It comes from the leaking windshield.
Look up my photo series and fix on the ford truck enthusiasts web site under electrical insanity.
Oh wait ... I found it:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/443324-electrical-insanity.html
1. Remove the windshield wipers and exterior trim around the windshield.
2. Remove the interior windshield trim on the driver side
3. Carefully pull out the long rubber seal that extends from the front base of the windshield and which extends across the top of the driver door.
On the inside edge of the groove that seats the rubber seal, there are two steel plates that are spot-welded together. The water seeps under the rubber seal, runs down this groove (which is nothing more than a gutter). The water seeps between these two steel plates and drips onto your electrical components and shorts out the circuit board.
I coated the inside of the groove with a thin coating of silicone sealant and used a thin putty knife to squeeze the sealant between the two steel plates. I also did this on the inside of the windshield for good measure.
Be careful not to put too much silicone into the groove or else the rubber seal won't seat properly back in place. Also, you want to be careful not to "glue" the seal back in or it will be damaged the next time it is removed and it is an expensive part.
After doing this, it took a few days for everything to dry out and I have not had one hiccup since. It completely solved the problem.
If I hold down the auto side of the front wiondow switch the other passenger window switches work fine and sometimes the passenger windows will work fine once when vehical is first turned on the drivers window never works I hear the relay kick when you hit the switch but nothing happens.
I have door lock issues as well my rear door passender door will not open must times the locks sometimes work and sometimes do not.
My ABS light is on.
My check engine light as well
My washer fluid light is on.
I have had the dead battery issue but has not happened for some time.
Does the window control operation and door lock control go thru the insturment panel also and could it be the water issue ??
Or is there a relay or such that can be replaced ???
ps. The battery indicator gauge is around 16 and the car start quickly since the battery jump. Any ideas?
Thanks
These two fixes solved my problems.
I have a similar issue with 2004 Expedition except not when the engine is running. The truck was fine. My wife turned it off at the gas station. When she tried to re-start it there was no power - power locks and dash did not work, other than a little dim of dashboard lights occasionally. When I arrived, I tried putting it into Neutral to push it - without hitting the brakes - it would not do anything. When I hit the brakes, I could move it to Neutral and then suddenly all the power turned on. The truck started fine.
I was thinking it may have been in-between gears, but I was not able to re-create it.
Radio and fan controls no longer work on steering wheel controls
Rear vent windows will not open or close
Cd player doesn't work
Are these all fuse issues?