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What was the exact code? Here's a discussion on the crankshaft sensor: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=961719&highlight=star- t
It turns out the connecting wires to the sensor were bad which resulted in the code.
this is the wire to the solenoid after all the checks like sensor park neutral etc.
If it has power from this wire to ground when turning the key but no crank, then the solenoid or the starter is the issue.
There are two coils in the solenoid to engage the heavy spring loaded lever to pull in the main contact to the starter. Once the main contact is in the second coil is cut out of the circuit and the remaining coil is sufficient to hold it in until you release the key.
Verify that you have a good ground to the starter. It is through the bolts to the block, which is grounded by a big ground wire somewhere.
I am having the exact same problem. I have and 1998 Intrigue. My car has stalled on me while driving. It would give me starting problems as well. It wouldn't start right away then i would eventually get it going. I took it to my my mechanic and they replaced the key ignition cylinder (it worked for a day). Then they said I had a lose battery connection and they reset my security system (it worked for 2 days then bam). So I told them to try to disable the car starter (it worked fine for a couple days now the damn thing won't start at all) Funny thing is that when the car starter was connected it would start fine with the start but would die when i tried the key. So now its in my car port and won't start, it tries the engine light flickers, all the other lights go on the turn off, and runs rough then dies.. So I may have to get it towed to my mechanic again.
If you can you keep me posted on your dilemma. When I get it figured out I will let you know. maybe you can e-mail me : .bender1972@hotmail.com
It would be greatly appreciated, I have had this on and off problem for over a month
its so frustrating!!.
take care
Chris,
Did you ever get this problem resolved? If so what fixed it? My pastor has a 2000 intrigue and has similar problems with the car stalling when he is driving it and the car won't start sometimes. He can turn the key on and wait until the dash lights come on and then it will usually start. He has had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced. The mechanic tried to get the codes but they cleared when the engine stalled...do you think that would indicate an electrical problem? Anyway thanks.
Mark
Today, after mulling over the forums for a few days, I decided to go to Autozone and buy a new ignition switch for $80. It took me just over an hour to take apart my dashboard and put in the new switch. My car starts fine now! I am no longer embarrased to drive my car for fear of stalling!
I have no idea why a bad ignition switch causes an engine to act that way, but i replaced it and I'm well on my way to 200,000 miles now!!!
Did your Pastor ever find out what the problem was. Sorry I never responded before didn't see the post. You may have read my other posts though. I had the crank sensor, mass air flow senor replace and it worked for awhile but now its acting up again.grrrr
P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1); It could be an oxygen sensor.
P0306 - misfire in cylinder 6.
Question, how many miles and is the coolant at the right level?
Did your pastor ever figure our his problem, my car I thought was fixed , is not having stalling and starting issues.... Let me know thanks chris
(to let you know, I have replaced the crank position sensor, the oxygen sensor, computer, fuel pressure regulator, ignition switch. The problem went away for a couple months but now is back more often, I think i may have do with wiring near the ignition switch or the security system I think the the security is cutting off the fuel pump not letting it start... im gonna have it looked at again.
ill let you know..
if you like my email is bender1972@hotmail.com
Well I finally took my Car to a GM dealer. MY car would stall while driving no matter what speed, and would also have a terrible time starting. Previously I had a few things replaced, the crank position sensor (they replaced this cause a code came up for faulty part) ,the fuel pressure regulator, the ignition switch, the oxygen sensor, had a new ECM computer replaced all that and I still had problems.
I broke down and took it to a GM dealer. They did a test on it and found this
""on inspection found the ignition voltage to the PCM was dropping off the battery voltage to 3volts and then the car would not run correctly. Need new Electrical Ignition Switch"
. So basically the Electrical Ignition switch was faulty. I guess the other one i had installed was no good. What a piss off. I have read that alot of GM cars have this issue. Would be nice if they fixed this for free. Damn repair cost me $600.00.
O well it is fixed now I hope..
I will keep you all posted, if you wanna email me bender1972@hotmail.com
just to let anyone know
I had the a similar issue, my car would stall while driving for no reason, and many times it would just not start..I replace a few things the crank sensor, ignition switch, oxygen sensor, spark plugs. Read my post below if you are having stalling while driving issues or your car just one start and acts real goofy when starting this may be the problem. What the replace was a switched behind the ignition swtich, it was dropping of in voltage causing the car to stall. hope this helps. you can emil if u like
bender1972@hotmail.com
When I had the codes read it just came up security issue..
Hey Everyone,
Well I finally took my Car to a GM dealer. MY car would stall while driving no matter what speed, and would also have a terrible time starting. Previously I had a few things replaced, the crank position sensor (they replaced this cause a code came up for faulty part) ,the fuel pressure regulator, the ignition switch, the oxygen sensor, had a new ECM computer replaced all that and I still had problems.
I broke down and took it to a GM dealer. They did a test on it and found this
""on inspection found the ignition voltage to the PCM was dropping off the battery voltage to 3volts and then the car would not run correctly. Need new Electrical Ignition Switch"
. So basically the Electrical Ignition switch was faulty. I guess the other one i had installed was no good. What a piss off. I have read that alot of GM cars have this issue. Would be nice if they fixed this for free. Damn repair cost me $600.00.
O well it is fixed now I hope..
I will keep you all posted, if you wanna email me bender1972hotmail.com
thanks for all the help here
I have a 99 Intrigue and was having the same problem: no codes, but Service Vehicle Soon and Trac Off, and sometimes Security lights would go on. The gauges were also going crazy. Then, had trouble with hard starting. Did not think the two things were related.
Had battery replaced in January....still starting hard, and SVS and Trac off lights going on (and staying on).
Just had the alternator replaced and now starts fine, no SVS, trac off, security lights.....
The alternator replacement cost around $500 (for a rebuilt alternator).
I think that is high, but replacing the alternator isn't easy.
Hopefully, that's the fix!
If you still having starting problems, and stalling issues check the Ignition electrical switch. I was having trouble for over a year on my car, it sometimes would not start and would stall while driving. I have things replace and thought the problem was fixed but it kept coming back. The actual problem was the Electrical Ignition Switch. there is a switch behind the key cylinder and was causing all my problems...
I have a '99 intrigue that has had problems starting since we bought it. It will take a while to start, most often requiring a little gas to get it going. It will stall quite regularly while driving, it seems to do this when you switch from the accelerator to the brake or vice versa. We had it tested at auto zone and it gave 3 codes. One for mass air flow sensor, one for crankshaft position sensor and another one I cant seem to remember now. The man there told us to try cleaning these with carb cleaner and to check/clean the Idle Control Valve (?). After doing this it ran very rough for a few minutes but then seemed to get better. Now it is stalling again and become impossible to drive due to the brakes locking when it dies. From scouring all these posts it seems I should start with the ignition switch but I am confused.. Are there 2 ignition switches?? I've read that the Electrical ignition switch is the culprit (behind the 'normal' ignition switch?) or just plain Ignition switch? ANY help will be most appreciated, Its too hot to walk to work...
Coool Nick, have you seen walking dead..??
I had the issue with my car for a long time. The car wouldn't start it would try then just die, Other times it would start just fine. Sometimes the damn thing would even stall on me while driving.. The problem was so intermittent it was hard to diagnose. Sometimes I would go for a month with no issues. I finally took my car to a local GM dealer and they found the issue. However they were only able to find the problem because at the time the car would not start at all.
When I took it to GM dealer they quoted this on my bill
""on inspection found the ignition voltage to the PCM was dropping off the battery voltage to 3volts and then the car would not run correctly. Need new Electrical Ignition Switch"
So I'm pretty sure it was the swich behind the key cylinder(the key cylinder is below)
I think that this was the part giving me issues ====> http://www.racepages.com/parts/ignition_switch/oldsmobile/intrigue.html
It is a switch behind the above part.
It was shorting out the voltage to the battery shutting down the engine.
Yeah the dash lights and the engine light would flash on and off, the rpm guage would just die.. it was weird..
Since they fixed that part my car has been fine..
hope this helps
keep me posted..
thanks
chris
Hey Zombie chick if u want email me a bender1972@hotmail.com
keep me posted
I also has this stuff replaced on my car before I found the major problem, but this stuff can cause stalling and non starting
here is a run down on what they did
They replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor, the GM ECM (the computer in the car they said was burnt out, so it wasn't giving proper readings or codes)
when they put the new computer in and reflashed it a new code came up showing the
Crank Sensor was faulty so they replaced that...
PS> Walking Dead is awesome I cant wait for October...
I forgot to post the the Crank Position Sensor was replaced on my car,
that can cause stalling and starting issues too,,,
let me know just curious .....
damn cars !!!!!
Here is my stupid cars history: always takes several attempts to start and it almost always requires me to step on the gas pedal to get it to start (unless I want sit there forever), when it does start it rev's up and down until it just dies, then when I get it started it can stall at any time. There really is something about the gas pedal and the brake. If I am sitting at a light and I take my foot off the brake, it wants to die unless I press hard down again on the brake or hurry up and get it idled up past the #2 RPM and watch the brake. Usually it stalls between the 1 and 1.5 RPM's but at other times I can watch the RPM gauge go up and down while driving. When going uphill the check engine light while flash on and off but when your done with the hill it will go off (hence no check engine light to show anyone!) My Uncle and brother though I was crazy when I told them what was going on! Sure enough when I took it to them it started every time and stayed running! OOOOOOOH! Well finally I left there house and then it just died wouldnt start at all or anything. Hahaha on them. They checked stuff out for an entire day and couldnt figure it out. They said I have a "Ghost Car". Well, then more $$$ later, it went to the Dealership for the big/major coding machine. It came up with two codes: Crankshaft Positon Sensor B Circuit Malfunction, and Evap Emission Control System Leak-Small. So, we changed the Crankshaft Sensor. It ran better for about a week and now I am back to square one. I guess the Evap Leak thing is anything from a loose gas cap to a hole in any of the tubing, etc.- almost impossible to find. After reading all these posts I am willing to try the Electrical Ignition Switch. I have no choice, I am unemployed and trying to hang onto my house. So, getting a new car in not an option. Do you have any idea how much an Electrical Ignition Switch costs? Please advise! I sure do need the help
Here is my recent post...
OMG!!!! I have actually had it with my 2000 Olds Intrigue with the stupid special 3.5L engine. All these codes, many repairs and it still stalls and everything. Thanx for the new info though... I think I am going to try a new Electrical Ignition Switch. But I am confused... Are there two electrical ignition switches? or is there the ignition switch and then an electrical ignition switch behind it? and how do I replace it? Where is it? Please advise.
Here is my stupid cars history: always takes several attempts to start and it almost always requires me to step on the gas pedal to get it to start (unless I want sit there forever), when it does start it rev's up and down until it just dies, then when I get it started it can stall at any time. There really is something about the gas pedal and the brake. If I am sitting at a light and I take my foot off the brake, it wants to die unless I press hard down again on the brake or hurry up and get it idled up past the #2 RPM and watch the brake. Usually it stalls between the 1 and 1.5 RPM's but at other times I can watch the RPM gauge go up and down while driving. When going uphill the check engine light while flash on and off but when your done with the hill it will go off (hence no check engine light to show anyone!) My Uncle and brother though I was crazy when I told them what was going on! Sure enough when I took it to them it started every time and stayed running! OOOOOOOH! Well finally I left there house and then it just died wouldnt start at all or anything. Hahaha on them. They checked stuff out for an entire day and couldnt figure it out. They said I have a "Ghost Car". Well, then more $$$ later, it went to the Dealership for the big/major coding machine. It came up with two codes: Crankshaft Positon Sensor B Circuit Malfunction, and Evap Emission Control System Leak-Small. So, we changed the Crankshaft Sensor. It ran better for about a week and now I am back to square one. I guess the Evap Leak thing is anything from a loose gas cap to a hole in any of the tubing, etc.- almost impossible to find. After reading all these posts I am willing to try the Electrical Ignition Switch. I have no choice, I am unemployed and trying to hang onto my house. So, getting a new car in not an option. Do you have any idea how much an Electrical Ignition Switch costs? Please advise! I sure do need the help
The fuel pump is turning on when you turn the key, and everything seems too be moving as needed but it will not fire. The car has been towed back too my place as we tried for an hour and could not get it too fire. Anyone have any ideas?
i have a 2000 olds intrigue, iv had to replace my cps, but now im also having that strong smell of gas (but no visible leak) and also sometimes ill go to start it and it ownt start. but then itll start up randomly. and you can hear the fel pump working and everything, and its not electrical because my lights and everything work fine. if anyone can help please email me at jammyburks1@hotmail.com
Email me direct if you don't get it...
A few people have done extensive research and have found low voltage at the computers of cars with issues. The GM engineers set up these systems knowing there was sufficient voltage and current to operate the car properly. It is assumed there is always enough voltage to operate the systems. If the starter turns over well, the battery is OK. Some change the ignition switch and this seems to be the big key to many of these issues. This can help as there is a voltage drop through any switch. The new switch can bring the voltage up just enough to raise the voltage where the car will work again. I took it one step further.
If the battery is not providing sufficient voltage to the system, then the computer will not work properly. The wife's 99 Olds Intrigue will start and then stop. Only with a little gas will it keep running. This uses the initial fuel pump shot to get the engine running, and with a little gas pedal, then the alternator comes on line to boost the voltage to the computer. It runs.
So, I took a voltage reading of the battery with the engine off. It reads 12.5 volts. According to the experts this is the battery condition by voltage:
12.68 Fully charged
12.45 75%
12.24 50%
12.06 25%
So, I may be at roughly 80% of the required voltage for the car. The starter turns over quite nicely so I took this one step further. I took a reading, at the battery, during starting. The voltage reading was 10.5 volts while cranking. This is way to low to operate the computer and components of the car. It appears that all voltage is being consumed by the starter with no residual voltage to run the computer, etc..
The battery in the car now is a low grade jobber battery which came with the car when bought. I cannot determine when it was made or how old it is.
The FIX, I think!
I am a firm believer in a very good battery like a Delco or Sears Die Hard. There may be other good batteries out there but these are my two favorites. I get the biggest battery that will fit into the tray with the longest warranty. I can usually pickup one of these Delco's, with a seven year warranty, for around $80.00. This is a bit higher than the others but, I never have to clean the cables, they work well past the warranty period, and I never have to get a jump start. The Delco's just work, and well.
My son has a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix. It came with a Delco battery and has had no electrical issues, at all. The 1999 Intrigue, which the wife drives, has already had the MAF Sensor replaced, the temperature reading for the climate control goes flaky occasionally, and I have the start/stop issue going. All electrical issues.
Low voltage is a killer to any electrical system. This is like sending 90 volts to your home computer. It may work, but it may not. Ask any electrical engineer about low voltage issues.
I will be heading to the Delco dealer next week for a new battery. Will keep you informed if this simple fix makes the difference I think it will.
My local shop gives a trouble code reader for free and it has absolutely no trouble codes. My next step is to try the fuel pressure regulator, CPS, and fuel filter. Did you fix yours? HELP, I don't want to put a lot of money in this car again....
My car had this problem for awhile before I got it figured out. Almost a year of intermittent issues. What my car would do would not start some days and others it would be fine. Many times it would actually stall while driving at any speed, It even stalled on me on the damn highway. I had a bunch of parts replaced, the crank sensor, the computer, oxygen sensor, fuel pressure regulator, actual ignition switich (the switch where the key goes into).The problem was so hard to find since it was intermittent. At one point I had no problems for two months but the problem eventually got worse and worse to the point where the car would not start at all.
I finally to it to a local GM dealer and they found the issue.
""on inspection found the ignition voltage to the PCM was dropping off the battery voltage to 3volts and then the car would not run correctly. Need new Electrical Ignition Switch"
So I'm pretty sure it was the swtich behind the key cylinder(the key cylinder is below)
I think that this was the part giving me issues ====> http://www.racepages.com/parts/ignition_switch/oldsmobile/intrigue.html
It is a switch behind the above part.
It was shorting out the voltage to the battery shutting down the engine.
Yeah the dash lights and the engine light would flash on and off, the rpm guage would just die.. it was weird..
Have a mechanic you know try to fix if if you can cause the GM dealers rip you off..
maybe quote what i did above should help.
Since they fixed that part my car has been fine..
hope this helps
keep me posted..
thanks
chris
'Mechanics' first said it was the battery, and replaced mine ($250), even though it tested fine! Problem continued. Then they replaced the alternator (almost $500). No difference. Finally went to another mechanic, and they replaced the starter ($300). Problem solved!
ALSO....after the starter was replaced, the instrument gauges were FINE (no service engine soon light and trac lights going on and off, and the gauges weren't going crazy)!
if you still have probelms read my other posts.....
if you still have probelms read my other posts.....