Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
since you replaced the ignition switch, cam and crank sensors, read my post above. It may be the solution to your startign problem.
right now my Intrigue is starting to be a bit more trouble then I would like. I need it to make it another 6 months then I can start to look at replacing it.
Yesterday I got into my car to run some errands. I started having problems a few miles from the house; when I would press on the gas the car would struggle to get up to speed. In fact at lights and while making turns the car would sometimes cut off and make a weird knocking noise. I stopped to get some gas (about 3.4 gallons=$15) then proceeded to drive for about 35 miles, and the car continued to perform the same. After the 35 mile mark (three blocks from my destination) my car cut off and wouldn't start back. It cranks but nothing else, even if you press on the gas (seems to respond the same wether on the gas or not). I though that it may be out of gas, so I dumped four more gallons in and it was still the same. Tried to give it a jump as well and it was still the same. I don't know if the pump works or not when you turn the ignition to on (don't know what to listen for) but the service engine light was on sometimes, other times it was off, and other times it would blink. The only other things that i think it could be would be the fuel filter or the fuel pump. Please help me!
Since your Intrigue has been troublesome, I would invest in an OBD II scanner. You can get one off EBay or like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94168
What year is your Olds and how many miles?
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=733658&highlight=cran- kshaft+position+sensor
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=895404&highlight=cran- kshaft+position+sensor
If the "check engine" light doesn't come on and you are experiencing hard starting, you are basically dealing with either a bad ignition switch or the fuel pressure regulator. A bad crankshaft sensor or camshaft sensor will also cause hard starting but will throw a code. Neither the fuel pressure regulator or ignition switch will throw a code. This applies to the 3.5L engine.
I replaced the ignition switch myself using an aftermarket brand. I posted the directions here on Edmunds'. A poster from another forum supplied the directions.
http://www.carspace.com/guides/Cleaning-the-Ignition-Switch-on-a-2000-Intrigue
I've heard the fuel pressure regulator is not hard to replace and the part is not too expensive. If you are comfortable working on a car, you might want to try replacing the fuel pressure regulator and ignition switch yourself. A FPR costs about $60.
Hope this helps.
The first thing i thought of is a bad crankshaft position sensor. Normally this will throw a code if you start experiencing stalling issues.
Many people have assumed it could be a cracked head/block?, others assumed it could be the fuel treatment clogging the fuel filter, and needing another oil change. From your experiences, please let me know what you might think may be the problem. IM NOT READY TO GET RID OF HER! :sick:
THANKS IN ADVANCE
Did you use the same kind of oil as usual? A cracked head or head gasket failure is the likely problem. Have you checked your oil and coolant levels?
Tthis sounds like the treatment went into the crankcase. I hope it's just grammar.
How much stuff did you use and how much gas was in the tank?
What mileage have you added to the odometer since the treatment?
Why do people use these snake oil concoctions?
Proper reputable gas has injector cleaners in them already?
But the start issue is still with me and as bad as it ever was. The mechanic where I take it for my oil changes swears its a starter going bad. Won't start cold, but always when it warms up. I've seen other posts that contradicted that so I'm understandably leary. I'm also leary of the alternator fix, but haven't seen enough feedback from folks who've gone that route to be confident.
But I also can't think of anything else. In the last several weeks if it takes over a minute or so to start, the SEL comes on and I blow white smoke from the tailpipe. The SEL typically goes out the next morning if it starts in a reasonable time. I've always believed I'm damaging things by trying and trying to start it. Every time the key is turned off, then back on the fuel pump starts again. That leads me to believe the injectors are probably dumpling some fuel into the chambers causing the smoke when it finally fires up. Anyone else have any new thoughts on this issue?
Fade
have you experienced any other drivability issues like stalling? It sounds like you may have a problem with the ignition switch esp since it seems so erratic and has been happening for some time. The ignition switch is a very common repair in this car. Also you need to get the car scanned to see what is going on with the SEL.
As far as the white smoke, check your coolant level.
However, I now have a third issue. Today on the way to work, I had the usual stop-and-go for about 5 miles. When traffic finally broke free, I stepped on the gas and out the tailpipe came large billowing blue clouds of smoke. It actually ran fine, just blew smoke for about a mile, then quit and ran perfectly all the way to work, about another 5 miles. When I started it this evening, it blew a small amount of blue smoke, then I didn't notice any additional smoke the entire commute home. I checked the oil and I'm down almost a full quart even though the oil was changed just two weeks ago. I normally lose a quart between changes, but I've never lost this much this quickly. Any advice from the real mechanics out there?
Gary