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Oldsmobile Intrigue Starting/Stalling

24

Comments

  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I think whatever "sensor" there is for the key is inthe tumblers. The ignition switch is designed to re-use the tumblers so a re-programming of the key is not necessary.

    since you replaced the ignition switch, cam and crank sensors, read my post above. It may be the solution to your startign problem.

    right now my Intrigue is starting to be a bit more trouble then I would like. I need it to make it another 6 months then I can start to look at replacing it.
  • ffresh420ffresh420 Member Posts: 2
    I also have an intrigue like yours that I purchased at an auction. My car would do the same thing. To get it to start I would have to mess with the battery because there is a short in my cables. Sometimes, however, the car would start without that if you tried it a few times. I never fixed the problem because the dealer wants over $400 to replace the lines. I figured the inconvience was worth it.
  • ffresh420ffresh420 Member Posts: 2
    My car is not in good shape like most of these other posters. I purchased my car two years ago at an auction. The car had been stolen, so it wasn't in great shape. Anyway, I was trying to install a radio, but didn't use a kit to hold it in place. Because of that it ended up shorting out my dash, meaning I do not know how much gas I have or how fast I am going, and the only light that works is the "service engine soon" light. Recently the radiator busted and I replaced it with a new one. The car was not having any immediate problems after that, but seemingly the car got worse and worse until yesterday.
    Yesterday I got into my car to run some errands. I started having problems a few miles from the house; when I would press on the gas the car would struggle to get up to speed. In fact at lights and while making turns the car would sometimes cut off and make a weird knocking noise. I stopped to get some gas (about 3.4 gallons=$15) then proceeded to drive for about 35 miles, and the car continued to perform the same. After the 35 mile mark (three blocks from my destination) my car cut off and wouldn't start back. It cranks but nothing else, even if you press on the gas (seems to respond the same wether on the gas or not). I though that it may be out of gas, so I dumped four more gallons in and it was still the same. Tried to give it a jump as well and it was still the same. I don't know if the pump works or not when you turn the ignition to on (don't know what to listen for) but the service engine light was on sometimes, other times it was off, and other times it would blink. The only other things that i think it could be would be the fuel filter or the fuel pump. Please help me!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    There are several things that could cause the issues you are having. The first thing I would do is have the car scanned for any trouble codes. That will determine if we are dealing with a fuel delivery issue or an ignition problem. Otherwise we are all simply guessing.

    Since your Intrigue has been troublesome, I would invest in an OBD II scanner. You can get one off EBay or like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94168
  • kimphotokimphoto Member Posts: 7
    I been having the stalling problem, now on a daily basis. I can start the car without much issues (sometines its a little rough start). Now everyday driving, somewhre between 6-11 mins the engine will sputtter and stall. When re-starting, it will either not turn over (starter ok) or it will missfire and it feels like its running on 3 or 4 cyc. I changed the ingition pack and had a new fuel pump installed. I rarely get an error (service engine lite, on right side), sometimes this lite will appear but the dealer didnt get any code. reading the OM it said this lite will be related to emissions. After several attempts to get the car to re-start It will run perfectly ok for the rest of the trip. HELP! this is making me nutz!
  • vannguyenvannguyen Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue is running good but some time it won't start even the starter is cranking. I wait about 5 to 10 minutes and it starts OK; then the engine dies when I make a stop and no display on the pannel. I restart again, it may starts right a way or I have to wait again for it works.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    If the service Engine light comes on, there should be a code stored. I'm leaning toward the crankshaft sensor. Also have you changed the spark plugs? How many miles do have on this vehicle?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    is the service engine soon light on? If no light is on, it could be the ignition switch.
  • kimphotokimphoto Member Posts: 7
    only sometimes the service engine lite will come on, more so when the fuel tanks is 3/4 full or /14 mark (dont know if this matters). I changed half of the plugs.. cant pull the boots off the rear of engine. Last time the Service engine lite came on I took it to the dealer and they found nothing stored. They told me i need to replace my water pump and there is a oil leak coming from the intake gasket. Buts is really odd it happens usually at 7 mins after I start engine. Tonight it worked ok past the 7 min mark w/o problems, but the RPM did change when I came to a stop lite, and it got a tiny rough for about 2 sec.
  • kimphotokimphoto Member Posts: 7
    is there a way to monitor the fuel flow / psi while driving? are their any guages that can be attached? I'm suspecting a fuel cut out issue, but I had a new fuel pump installed so I dont think its the pump, I think it can be a relay.
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Actualy they are very simple.Cam senser is onder coolant resevour,two 10mm nuts hold it toguether.One 10mm bolt holds the sensor.The crank sensor is a bit more tricky,you have to drop starter,Tow 15mm bolts,and two 10mm bolts on the plastic cover.
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Ok I found the PCM under air filter.Now the dealer tells me,that I also have an ECM.Where is it? :confuse:
  • kkim_hikkim_hi Member Posts: 7
    :cry: Hi me again, update on my 7-12 min stalling. I changed the water pump and the stalling slowly went away for a few days, then I found my upper hose clamp broke, and after I repaced it the stalling came back. I found that if I losen the radiator cap and reduce the pressure the stalling is almost gone. Now I suspect a crack gasket someplace. I didnt find any water in my oil so thats a good sign but its confuses me why it will stall only after (i guess) the engine heats up? but after I get it restarted, it runs fine even hot without stalling again. Someone said it could be an Engine temp sensor (which leans the mix like a throttle did) or possible an head gasket break on the exhaust port, when it heats up steam/water enters the cyc and causes the stall. Help!!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Are you still losing coolant after replacing the water pump? Are there any "check engine" lights on? Is there white smoke coming out of the exhaust after the car heats up?

    What year is your Olds and how many miles?
  • KratkyKratky Member Posts: 1
    Cars stalls after 2 minutes on warm up. Checked the codes and got P0385 (Crankshaft Position Sensor). It then restarts and runs fine the rest of the day. I read many articles and believe this sensor located above the starter should be changed. My question: One of the articles says after replacement, the CKP System Variation learn procedure must be performed. This requires a Tech 2 scan tool at the dealership. Is this correct? If so, that means that you just can't take out the old one, replace it and drive away. It sounds like the dealer must perform the replacement for $300.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I've read conflicting positions on this. I've also heard about the need to do the "learn" procedure following replacing the CKS. But I've read of other owners replacing the sensor, not doing the learn procedure and having no issues. Below are a couple of exchanges discussing the crankshaft position sensor that may help:

    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=733658&highlight=cran- kshaft+position+sensor

    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=895404&highlight=cran- kshaft+position+sensor
  • jmerrittokjmerrittok Member Posts: 2
    I have 2000 old intrigue with hard start problem 69,500 miles on it. cranks and finally starts. seems to start in very cold weather 10 - 30 degrees. harder starting in warmer weather above 30. took to mechanic. Not showing any code. he replaced fuel filter, added fuel cleaner. ran out the ethanol fuel and replaced with higher octane(middle grade) fuel. seemed to start better. went back to lower grade non ethanol. still having hard start. it will start on 3rd try. the engine revs to 2400 rpm and settles down to normal idle. mechanic says that the fuel pressure is running around 31 psi. after starting engine runs too well to have too much wrong with it. it is consistantly hard in warmer weather than in colder weather. saw a posting #25 of 67 Re: 2000 Intrigue starting issues [dtownfb] that had very simmilar issues but did no see conclusion of results. please help!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    My issue ended up being a bad ignition switch (re-use the tumblers). My problem started in colder weather and by June I needed 5-10 tries to start the car. I also experienced stalling while driving and had the "security" light flash a few times. It took a while for me to diagnose the problem since the symptoms of a bad ignition switch can mimic fuel related problems like a bad fuel pressure regulator or a bad fuel pump. Also I simply didn't have the tools (or comfort level) to check the fuel pressure regulator.

    If the "check engine" light doesn't come on and you are experiencing hard starting, you are basically dealing with either a bad ignition switch or the fuel pressure regulator. A bad crankshaft sensor or camshaft sensor will also cause hard starting but will throw a code. Neither the fuel pressure regulator or ignition switch will throw a code. This applies to the 3.5L engine.

    I replaced the ignition switch myself using an aftermarket brand. I posted the directions here on Edmunds'. A poster from another forum supplied the directions.

    http://www.carspace.com/guides/Cleaning-the-Ignition-Switch-on-a-2000-Intrigue

    I've heard the fuel pressure regulator is not hard to replace and the part is not too expensive. If you are comfortable working on a car, you might want to try replacing the fuel pressure regulator and ignition switch yourself. A FPR costs about $60.

    Hope this helps.
  • jmerrittokjmerrittok Member Posts: 2
    thanks I will give it a try.
  • jc115jc115 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Intrigue and sometimes when I turn the ignition to start the car, it starts like normal the the next second the rpms drop below 1000 and sometime the car even stalls. Also other tine the car wont even start on the first try. Im not sure what to do.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    What engine do you have? Are there any "Check engine" lights on? Does the car stall while driving? Or does it stall after being driven for a while? Any other driveability issues?
  • jc115jc115 Member Posts: 2
    I have the 3.5 liter, and nope the check engine light doesn't come on. It hasn't ever stalled when i has driving, only when starting. Other than that it runs great
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    That narrows it down to the fuel pressure regulator or ignition switch.
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Member Posts: 92
    If you search the forum, you will find many cases of faulty ignition switches on Intrigues causing stalling and starting issues. When one of my Intrigues or my brother's two Intrigues has stalling issues, that will be the first part we replace.
  • nyitrain07nyitrain07 Member Posts: 1
    I currently own a 98 intrigue, with 105k and have owned for nine months. In Dec. 08, the car would not start in cold weather, but it was covered in snow. It started the next day, but kept on stalling and once it got warm it would no stay running. My father is a mechanic and we have replaced plenty of parts and problem is still not fixed. We have replaced spark plugs, boots, coils, fuel filter and pump, ignition control module, fuel regulator, crank sensor and new intake. I have read it could be the ignition switch, but i have tried to wiggle the key and the stayed running when it wanted to run. Everywhere i look i only read about the 3.5 motor and not the 3.8,so i dont know where to look anymore. Could it be the computer, mass flow air sensor and cam sensor. The computer isn't giving us any codes and seems to work fine. I am sick of this car and just want the problem fixed. Any ideas please comment back.
  • wkndgrlwkndgrl Member Posts: 4
    I recently bought a 2000 intrigue 3.5l v6 gx model with 109,000 miles on it. I took it to autozone and had the battery and alternator tested and my alternator was only running at 55 amps so i replaced the alternator and had it tested it again and the amp output was 141. well now the battery is not being charged by alt. what gives? also i had the service engine soon indicator come on so i had that tested and was told it is the crankshaft position sensor. i am due to have that replace this weekend. any assistance from experienced intrigue owners would be greatly appreciated. i am ready to throw my hands up. but i read several post in this forum that this is a really good car so please any insight. :)
  • intrigue05intrigue05 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 oldsmobile intrigue GL with the 3.8 series 2. I love the car but can get very frustrating. it ran perfect until about 150.000 miles. now it has started stuttering, then shutting off. I replaced the FPR and didn't have any luck If the car is cold when i first start it then it runs fine until i shut it off, then when i start it again and drive it it randomly shuts off. but then if i wait long enough and wait till the car is cold again it runs fine. Could this be a vacumm problem? im all out of ideas so any suggestions would help.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Are there any "check engine" lights on? Are you experiencing any hard starting on a regular basis? When the car stalls, do you notice any of the "warning" lights coming on? What else have you tried?

    The first thing i thought of is a bad crankshaft position sensor. Normally this will throw a code if you start experiencing stalling issues.
  • kimphotokimphoto Member Posts: 7
    Hi Thanks again, I'm not losing any coolant, and no white smoke. BUT the exhaust smell very rich after starting and running. I been getting a service engine lite (right side) and my friend had a code reader. It showed Crank position sensor (Part A) fault. IS this the cause of failures after the car warms up? But its strange that after I re-start, no more failures, so I'm confused if the CPS is faulting, why only after 7-11 min and not after re-start. If I replace the CPS do I need to have mech do a re-training i've been reading??
  • intrigue05intrigue05 Member Posts: 3
    htere is a check engine light on and when it turns on the car runs better. Im guessing that because it is then running off pre-programed data. But i was thinking it was a vacuum leak because i heard a hissing sound and when i revved the car there was a high pitched whisteling sound. i found a big leak between the manifold and throttle botty. that o-ring is bad and the manifold is a little warped. would that cause the car to stutter and die? and would i have to get a new manifold? or would just the o-ring do the trick?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The first thing you need to do is get your car scanned so you know what code is. Most likely the check engine light will give you an idea of what is going on with the car. You can get it scanned for free at most auto part stores. Make sure oyu get the actual code and not "oh, it's your oxygen sensor". There are enough people on this forum who have dealt with most of the problemw with the Intrigue that if you post the code, someone can help you.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The crankshaft position sensor is a common problem on the Intrigue and can cause the problems you are describing. From what I understand, it is not too hard to replace. Some people just replaced the sensor and did not do the re-learn process and did not have any problems. Some did the re-learn process. Search the main Intrigue board and see if someone posted the re-learn process. You can also try a internet search.
  • pizzapie1pizzapie1 Member Posts: 1
    I have been having the following problems the stall for no reason suspect the cam & crank sensors are there any surprises when you install new ones, like when we installed the new ignition it locked us out with pass lock? is there a relearn processHow hard are the installs and where are these two pieces located.
  • intrigue05intrigue05 Member Posts: 3
    yea i have a scantool and everytime i am about to use it my engine light goes off. but i figured out it was the mass airflow sensor. i unplugged it and when i drove with it unplugges it drove just fine so i replaced it and it's all fixed.
  • bold_1bold_1 Member Posts: 31
    Im back fellow intriguers and i have a big problem::::I recently changed the oil on my 3.5 with 169k, and added a bottle of lucas oil Fuel injector treatment; then the problems started. A day after that service, when starting the car cold I get a sputter and big snow white cloud of smoke then it would go away. While driving, I smell nor see smoke and it drove exceptionally well so I assumed everything was being "blown out". Fast forward to today (3 weeks later) I still have the white cloud when starting cold, then it fades to a faint blue. On my 6 mile stretch down I-270 to work I cruised at 65. When accelerating off the highway to about 45mph i could not see out of the rearview due to a grayish-blue cloud of smoke.

    Many people have assumed it could be a cracked head/block?, others assumed it could be the fuel treatment clogging the fuel filter, and needing another oil change. From your experiences, please let me know what you might think may be the problem. IM NOT READY TO GET RID OF HER! :sick:
    THANKS IN ADVANCE
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Did you go through the tank of gas in that 3 weeks? I have a hard time believing a bottle of fuel injector cleaner is causing your problems.

    Did you use the same kind of oil as usual? A cracked head or head gasket failure is the likely problem. Have you checked your oil and coolant levels?
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    I recently changed the oil on my 3.5 with 169k, and added a bottle of lucas oil Fuel injector treatment; then the problems started.
    Tthis sounds like the treatment went into the crankcase. I hope it's just grammar.

    How much stuff did you use and how much gas was in the tank?
    What mileage have you added to the odometer since the treatment?
    Why do people use these snake oil concoctions?
    Proper reputable gas has injector cleaners in them already?
  • fadefade Member Posts: 5
    This really is getting old. During the colder weather, my Intrigue started almost every time. Now that SoCal is experiencing a heat wave, it never starts on the first attempt. I did resolve my dash light, turn signal and headlight flashing issues by taking out the fuse block (passenger side-interior), underhood relay/fuse block and BCM and thoroughly cleaning all contacts. I pulled every fuse, cleaned their contacts and replacement them after coating with all weather contact lube. I pulled all the ground wires, burnished the contact areas, and also lubed with contact lube. To date, I have not experienced the holiday light festival and my turn signals have worked flawlessly. Good news on the highways out here.
    But the start issue is still with me and as bad as it ever was. The mechanic where I take it for my oil changes swears its a starter going bad. Won't start cold, but always when it warms up. I've seen other posts that contradicted that so I'm understandably leary. I'm also leary of the alternator fix, but haven't seen enough feedback from folks who've gone that route to be confident.
    But I also can't think of anything else. In the last several weeks if it takes over a minute or so to start, the SEL comes on and I blow white smoke from the tailpipe. The SEL typically goes out the next morning if it starts in a reasonable time. I've always believed I'm damaging things by trying and trying to start it. Every time the key is turned off, then back on the fuel pump starts again. That leads me to believe the injectors are probably dumpling some fuel into the chambers causing the smoke when it finally fires up. Anyone else have any new thoughts on this issue?
    Fade
  • wickline7wickline7 Member Posts: 2
    i have 98 olds intrigue with a 3.8 it came with a gear reduction starter cost $200 i found that an early 90's gm direct drive starter will fit probly any 3.8 just make sure the bolt holes are the same the gear has less teeth but sets closer to the fly wheel i got mine used but even new would be much cheaper :shades: and works great
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The main thing is you need to find out why the SEL came on. You probably have a code stored in the computer and can get a auto part store to read it for you. Make sure you get the actual number of the code.

    have you experienced any other drivability issues like stalling? It sounds like you may have a problem with the ignition switch esp since it seems so erratic and has been happening for some time. The ignition switch is a very common repair in this car. Also you need to get the car scanned to see what is going on with the SEL.

    As far as the white smoke, check your coolant level.
  • fadefade Member Posts: 5
    I'll have the SEL read although its currently not on. The coolant level is fine. Changed coolant and thermostat last summer at 100K miles along with belt. Hopefully no worries there. The car seems to run flawlessly at all times, it just won't start.
    However, I now have a third issue. Today on the way to work, I had the usual stop-and-go for about 5 miles. When traffic finally broke free, I stepped on the gas and out the tailpipe came large billowing blue clouds of smoke. It actually ran fine, just blew smoke for about a mile, then quit and ran perfectly all the way to work, about another 5 miles. When I started it this evening, it blew a small amount of blue smoke, then I didn't notice any additional smoke the entire commute home. I checked the oil and I'm down almost a full quart even though the oil was changed just two weeks ago. I normally lose a quart between changes, but I've never lost this much this quickly. Any advice from the real mechanics out there?
    Gary
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Blue smoke? http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Why_is_blue_smoke_coming_out_of_tailpipe
  • ridgerunner835ridgerunner835 Member Posts: 10
    my step son's 99 intrigue with 140K miles 3.8 engine ,started running rough today and nearly died while on the road,he was able to get it into a parking lot and he shut it off and it would not start back.it kinda just acted like the battery was weak,it would attemp to turn over,then just click.i was thinking alternator ,so itook the battery(known to be good) out of my silverado and tried it and got the same results.has any body ever had anything like this to happen to them with this kind of car?i was not with him so i don't know for sure what it started doing when it nearly stalled or he didn't know what kind of dash lights came on,he did notice the check engine was on right before he shut it off. thanks for any advice on this problem.i will let you know what is found.
  • ridgerunner835ridgerunner835 Member Posts: 10
    the problem turned out not to be electrical,like i suspected.my mechanic found that the intake plenium was cracked and allowed dex cool to leak into the top of the engine,which essentially locked it up after it was shut off.after the spark plugs were removed the engine would turn over which also allowed most of the dex cool to be blown from the cylinders.after a new plenium,new set of plugs and plug wires for good measure(damaged some of the old ones trying to remove them from the plugs),the car is back to running perfectly.i think it was pure luck that the engine(piston rods,valves) was not damaged after trying to crank it so many times.
  • ridgerunner835ridgerunner835 Member Posts: 10
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    My intrigue is giving me a camshaft sensor circuit fault.I replaced sensor still have fault.Replaced PCM fault is gone but now it wont crank.Did passlock relearn,nothing.What can cause a no-crank? Before it would not crank but at least it told me why. :mad:
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    I'm getting a p0340 camshaft sensor circuit malfunction. Replaced sensor,wires,and crankshaft sensor just to make sure.No luck :confuse: Has anybody encounter and fixed this problem? I'm about to set this sucker on fire.PLEASE help :cry:
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    What is the year, engine and mileage on your Intrigue?
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    2000 with about 163k
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Could it be the alternator? I know they are known to have issues... :confuse:
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