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Just to let you all know who helped me. You were all right. I had to have new Brake Rotors. No transmission problems whatsoever. I again thank you all for the help. The manager at Meineke felt so stupid when i took my brother-in-law with me.
Ladies beware. Don't go to these types of place by yourself. Take some male person with you.
My car does the opposite: from first to second gear, there's a definite absence of power transfer lasting almost a second.
The shift from 2nd to 3rd is better, but still perceptably sloppy. Higher gears are better, hard to tell when the shift takes place.
The Accord has only 4K miles on it. My 98 Camry with 165K miles shifts better.
I've noticed that the Accord shifts crisper if my foot is pushing hard on the accelerator. It's almost as if Honda expects the car to be driven aggressively, and designed the transmission for it.
But I don't want to jackrabbit away from stop lights. Never did, and don't want to start now.
If I take the car in to the dealer, I expect I'll be told "yeah, this is how they all drive." (I bought the car at the dealer with 3500 miles. It shifted like this from Day One. I thought I'd get used to it. Nope.)
Advice, please?
-- Steve
So, skip the dealer trip - "yeah, that's how they all drive."
In over 40 years of car buying, this is the first Honda I've ever had. Almost bought another Toyota, but was captured by the handling of the Accord. Still, it amazes me that my 10-year-old Camry (with 165K miles) shifts better than this new Accord.
The good part is that the 4-cyl Honda transmissions are rock-solid.
Thank you -- MaedieB
I am back again asking for help. You all were so helpful with the brake problem I had maybe you can help me again.
I have a 1996 Honda Accord Anniversary Edition, for the last few weeks the SRS light would flicker on and off now it stays on continually. Does anybody know what I can do about this. Is it a serious problem?
I will wait for your responses.
Thanks again.
I have an 08 V6 which lags when shifted into drive but otherwise seems normal.
I have seen this mentioned on other forums for Honda vehicles, so there must be
many other Accords that exhibit this behavior. I would like to know how common
this is and if it is any indication of tranny problems down the road. I searched through the Honda service bulletins and can't find any mention of this in them for any Honda vehicle. Does anyone have any detailed info on this problem?
Neither has exhibited ANY transmission problems, and the '96 has 180,000 miles on it. The 2006 has 31,000. Both are daily drivers, and both see high-rpms from time-to-time; no problems.
I can't decide whether to keep it for the long haul, but the prospect of a diesel Accord sometime in the next year or two is attractive. Any good info on this?
there is a green light next to the speedometer with the letter s in it.
there is a button on my shifter that can turn this light on an off to make my transmission shift different.as of lately when I turn the car on the green light stays on for a minute, when i put the car in drive, it car will not move. when the light goes off. the car acts normal, i can drive it with no problem.
What is causing this problem ? and what can i do to solve it ?
http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
If it is your computer, I suggest trying to find a used one, or repairing the old one. A new one would cost plenty.
I need some help. My 2000 Honda Accord V6 will not switch, it's locked. I took it to shop, they said the electronic switch solenoid is bad and want to charge $270 to replace it. I then called the nearby Honda dealer, they said there were multiple switches in the transmission. They wanted to charge $99 just to find out the problem. Somebody here said here that there was a transmission recall for that year model. Can somebody help me to find out about the recall?
Thanks so much.
The same years, 4 cyl, have a diagnostic inline screen for tech trouble shooting purposes.
Honda's recommended 120,000 mi or 6 years is a stretch given the cost of overhauling an auto 5 speed.
I use a color test or 20k miles. The color test is a drop of A/T fluid from the tranny dipstick on a white paper towel compared to a drop of new Z1. Should be red in color and reasonably close to the Z1. If dark or black needs drain fill.
Since no filter, no pan to drop. Honda has provided a common torx star drain plug in the aluminum pan. 3 qts Z1 and new crush washer. Done as needed at the annual oil change. I bought a case of 12 Z1 at a local auto parts store for $92.
Mrbill
Before taking it in for service I wanted to see if someone could give me an idea what is the most likely cause of this problem.
link title
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=17904
Three large pics. No's 2 and 3 are V6 with Honda filter.
The filter is about 3.5 inches diameter and 1.5 inches deep.
Found it on my 05 V6 inboard and below the airbox.
Looks to be a PITA to service.
Inexplicable why Honda doesn't specify a service interval.
Called Honda dealer Parts. First said no filter then after checking filter special order cost about $16.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13804
Even the factory (Helm) Honda V6 supplement has no mention of the filter. It shows the part the filter sits in, but just calls it a fluid passage. Many Honda technicians don't even know about this filter. :confuse:
Thanks for the reminder!
TheGraduate
On brake fluid: My procedure is flush 5 years. I live in low humidity SCal. I plan on flush at independent Honda repair shop with Honda fluid. Honda fluid because that's what Honda specifies and ABS components are very expensive.
Now that you mention it, I think I did have them checked at the 30k mile service (at 29k). I added that to the list of items that the maintenance minder called for. I can't remember what they told me they had left, but I know they didn't suggest replacement.
91302RAY003 Filter Gasket (Interior filter to cannister outlet)
25450RAY003 ATF Element
The element is 2 5/8 inches in diameter by 1 3/4 inches high with a pressure relief valve built in for bypass. Shot glass sized and designed to strain out visible debris.
Order from Majestic on line best. Outrageous local dealer cost but this time only.
I'll use Magnefine next time pending inspection and beyond warranty. It is larger, has built in magnets and costs less.
As advertised nasty because of interference removal.
Tips: Due to the spider web of bracket connected air and coolant lines air intake, remove intake from air filter/box end. There is enough clearance to wiggle the intake box out. Remove the battery hold down adjacent for box clearance.
Caution the box has a wire standoff with bolt. Difficult to install and lost the bolt.
The 6 o'clock filter body bolt has an interference line that can't be moved.
Helped to have 1/4 inch driver with 10mm socket.
The banjo bolt outlet from filter has washers both sides - take care not to drop the inner washer. I used a little blue RTV to tack. The outlet line is stiff and was difficult to start the bolt. Careful not to x thread.
After test drive, I pulled the left side wheel to inspect (most of) the bottom of the filter and cleaned the half pint of dumped ATF from the frame.
Filter was black at 27.8k miles. Normal. No steel or other debris and that's good.
Next service 100k for filter with periodic drains to maintain ATF color.
Has anyone seen the AT line out of the bottom of the radiator driver side? May be more accessible than buried in the engine compartment.
What was Honda thinking??
Your filter was black at only 27.8k miles? I am very interested in the condition of my filter. I just hit 60k miles, and I will be changing the filter over the holidays. I change out three quarts of fluid every 15k miles, so the fluid looks pretty clean to me when I check it. The guy who changed his filter at 100k miles said his filter was solid as a rock. Don't know if he ever changed the fluid though.
At least I have Steelers' football to tide me over till the racing starts.
need help on removal, have removed two top bolts to the left of starter, both cv axles five bolts on bottom, undone fork cable, linkage taken aloose, trans mount on top, motor mount in front bracket bolts on rear of trans. but it is still binding at the top and won't slide out. does anyone have pics or suggestion really need to put clutch in asap
1) Should I get changed with new Honda parts at the dealer? or at AAMCO?
2) Should I have it changed with new Honda parts, but at a local repairshop?
3) Should I try to install a USED transmission part at a local repairshop?
#1 is probably most expensive and #3 is probably least. Some links on web suggested with #3 may result in repeated repairs, is that true?
Also any thoughts on value proposition of trading-in the car versus donating it?
Thanks,
Andy