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Mazda 323 Electrical Problems

bill98382bill98382 Member Posts: 1
edited September 2014 in Mazda
1992 Mazda 323 - just replaced the alternator and car ran OK for a few miles. Now at times the discharge light comes on and vehicle looses power, radio quits working and lights go dim. This problem comes and goes. Battery holds a charge so I don't think that is the problem. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
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Comments

  • willowskiwillowski Member Posts: 1
    recently I have had problems starting my 323 in a morning as if the battery is flat, to check to see if it is being recharged could anybody tell me what the voltage should be at the battery while the engine is running. thankyou.
  • clipse1130clipse1130 Member Posts: 7
    check your elcetrical wireing system.. It sounds like you might have a faulty wire somewere that is draining your batter out and or causing a minor "short"..
  • clipse1130clipse1130 Member Posts: 7
    :( if anyone has the order of the spark plug cables for the distributor can you please send me a pic of it ( the order) or tell me please, i would really appriciate it..
  • einnoreinnor Member Posts: 1
    whenever i turn the steering wheel left or right the engine is revving, what is the possible solution to this pls send reply need to fix it right away thank u
  • captainscookcaptainscook Member Posts: 3
    I had a simular problem.The brand new altenator was putting out 19volts! I would say switch the altenator back at store where you bought it.It happens man it does,you put a new alternator on then there's a factory defect.
  • captainscookcaptainscook Member Posts: 3
    Ok I have replaced the PCM,MAF,Fuel Pump,spark plugs distributer rotor cap,small stuff.The car will run great ..then go into a convulsive fit so to speak..and eventually stopp running(happens at idle to after car is running for while)My father thinks it may be the coil is getting hot then the car looses complete power and dies..just if you where to pull the coil wire off with car running.The mass air flow sensor is a used part in great shape,but off a duel overhead...mines a single 1.6.I dont know if that would effect the car to that extent.Timming belt car would run bad all the time..fuel pump relays all test good proper voltage.(ie;circuit opening under pass dash,main under hood,relay box)So I'm ready to buy some chopsticks and eat a good asian meal with the air on...least get somethen out of it!!!! HELP!
  • captainscookcaptainscook Member Posts: 3
    sIMPLE...IF YOU ARE LOOKING AT THE ROTOR CAP AS IT IS ON CAR FROM DRIVERS SIDE LEANING OVER FENDER LOOKING DEAD STAIGHT AT IT FROM LEFT TO RIGHT(IMAGINE A (Z) TOP LEFT OF Z IS #1 TOP RIGHT OF Z IS #2 BOTTOM LEFT OF Z IS #3 AND BOTTOM RIGHT IS #4.Firing order though is 1-3-2-4.
  • mazda_a2bmazda_a2b Member Posts: 1
    hey boi'z,

    my dashboard lights dont turn on when i turn the lights on . just wondering if its a fuse or maybe light globe or somin like neone know nething about it.
  • jcfdillonjcfdillon Member Posts: 3
    can i safely use a "performance" coil made by Accel, for the Mazda 323 Hatchback 1994 2-door model with 1.6 L engine? or do i have to stick with the stock ignition coil? thank you very much! (the coil i wanted to try out is Accel Chrome 8140C "universal 12 volt performance coil"
  • jcfdillonjcfdillon Member Posts: 3
    there's an adjustment knob for the dash lights, to make them dimmer or brighter, so you turn that and hopefully you can bring the dash lights up. its on the mid left area of the dashboard near steering wheel
  • felix55felix55 Member Posts: 1
    where can i buy airflow meter for mazda 323f 1998
  • sanman07sanman07 Member Posts: 3
    Hi there,
    Just bought this 1994 mazda 323, got 2 days driving out of it and now won't start. Turns over fine, but not starting. So I changed the fuel pump, new coil, new coil wire going to distributor cap, new distributor cap, new rotor. All fuses are fine, both inside the drivers panel and the ones in the engine compartment. And there is power going to the coil - weird huh - but nothing coming out.
    Distributor gone? Timing? Ignition? It was starting fine, then we stopped, turned it off, and never started since.
    But there is still no spark. Also we only have 6 volts going to the fuel pump, shouldn't it be 12 volts?
    I'm totally fed up with the car, so if someone knows anything about these, maybe its a common issue, I really don't know.
    Argggggggg!!!! :mad: & many thanks
  • jcfdillonjcfdillon Member Posts: 3
    maybe try carefully cleaning the battery terminal posts so that they are shiny instead of dull colored. also, if your battery is holding a charge it might still not be able to maintain proper amperage. look at the fluid level and fill the battery with distilled water only to the low point where the flat part of the plastic tube meets the top of the water level (with car on a level surface). don't fill the water to the top. may need to check your electrolyte level in case you need to get proper electrolyte levels into your battery. i read somewhere that it might be best for older cars to use the highest possible amperage battery for the particular car. for my mazda 323 i think the type is 65N or something like that, hopefully it is not overpowered (i havent tried it yet). my car battery kept going out when i left the hatchback open sometimes, so i think there is some sort of power drain on the system when the hatchback is open even though there is no light on as far as i can tell.
  • gmacktechgmacktech Member Posts: 1
    I only have 6 volts to the fuel pump,,,,relays are good coil is good,,,,i did see earlier it could possibly be the air flow meter,,,,,is there a way to bypass the air fow meter and if so which wires would have to b shorted to do this :sick:
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