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Towing with a Forester

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Comments

  • 26cars26cars Member Posts: 19
    Has anyone towed with a 2009/10 Forester, non-turbo, a trailer over 2000 lbs., up to the max rated 2400 lbs.?
    I have the factory hitch and tow a fishing boat that weighs about 900 lbs., thinking about getting a pop-up camper but I am concerned that the Forester may be challenged at the near-max weights. Especially concerned about tounge weight, campers tend to be tounge-heavy and I suspect rear-end sag may be considerable with that kind of load (200+ lbs).
    Also wondering if anyone that tows heavier weights has installed a tranny oil cooler, what brand, and if you installed yourself.

    Any input.advice greatly appreciated!
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    We've towed with our 2001 Forester, with no problems. Remember, max towing with your car is 1000 pounds (not 2400) if your trailer doesn't have brakes. Check your owner's manual, as it's stated there.

    Bob
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    If you are pushing the max rated capacity, I would be more concerned with the class-II hitch (1.25") than the car's ability to pull it. Unfortunately, I have not yet pulled with my '10 Forester, but I am not concerned about its ability to do so. If you are expecting the car to hold speed in hills, etc., with that kind of weight, the car may be challenged, but I doubt it will have a problem actually pulling the load. If you are concerned about sagging due to tongue weight, consider a load-leveler or redistribute cargo in the pop-up such that it is more balanced. You can also transfer load to the car (stored cargo in/on the car versus trailer) to help shift the weight balance in favor of the towing vehicle.

    I assume yours has an automatic transmission? If so, I agree that the external transmission cooler is a good idea. I have not installed one on a Subaru or recently, but the transmission lines to the radiator are easily accessible and simple to modify; it is a perfect do-it-yourself job.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My guess is he was driving to Florida, then on to a boat heading towards Guatemala.

    imageSee more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com

    The good news is this was clearly a long distance haul, and we're talking well over 3000 lbs. The RAV4 was loaded to the gills with gear. Probably 4000 lbs!
  • 26cars26cars Member Posts: 19
    Thanks for the input all; I picked up a used Coleman pop-up Friday, dry weight about 1350 lbs. The Forester pulls it easily, was also pleased with the lack of rear end sag (only about 1.5") with a toungue weight of about 175 lbs. Camper does not have brakes so I will probably add electrics at some time, though it stops fine around the "flatlands" of Mass., but up in the hilly North brakes would be useful. Also going to add a tranny cooler as added insurance.
    Can't wait to start camping in more comfort than a tent!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sounds cool, take some pics when you get the chance.
  • 26cars26cars Member Posts: 19
    edited April 2010
    Here's a pic of the 1992 Coleman Pioneer attached to the Forester. Camper is mint, picked up for $1600
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Looks great, and at a nice price!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's about 4 nights at the Loews Miami. Friggin overpriced *#&^%#> :mad:
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    edited June 2010
    It took all of maybe ten minutes. I purchased the T-One connector from e-Trailer for $39.99. I was hoping that the '10 would have a rubber pop-out through which to run the connector discreetly to the exterior like the one on AJ's '98 Forester. While there are a few openings in the body's sheet metal that have rubber caps, none were made to seal wiring through them nor did any seem large enough to accommodate the over-sized flat-4 connector. As such, I just coiled mine up and left it under the floor of the cargo bay. I figure I can snake it out and through the door opening when I need it.

    What are other solutions for the '09+ trailer wiring? I would like to have mine permanently on the exterior of the car, but so far have not snooped around for a possible space to route it without drilling a hole.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I installed U-Haul class III hitch (took aoox. 30 minutes) on my 2010 Forester XT and bought plug-in module from e-Trailer as well. You can have the flat plug outside. All you have to do is cut 4 wires that lead to the flat plug (close to the black module that is inside the car) and then run wire through any of the holes in the spare tire well to the hitch.
    Then, re-connect each individaul color coded wire coming from the flat plug to the same color coded wire coming out of the module with elec. connectors (available at any auto parts store) and cramping tool. Piece of cake!
    If you are concerned about water leaks, you can seal these wires with "liquid metal" putty (available at any auto parts store). When cured, the putty makes the seal water proof.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    edited July 2010
    Thanks. I briefly considered that, but since I only had two connectors available to splice the wires at the time I figured I would hold off to see if anyone else had come up with a simpler solution.

    The class-3 is the definitely the way to go. I picked up a Curt round-bar hitch (which looks very nice on the car) for about $130. I use it frequently in combination with a cargo carrier ($100).

    What are you planning to tow with your XT? Yours is the first I know about that has a trailer hitch, so I'm wondering how well you find it performs when doing so. I have not pulled a trailer yet with mine (an X Premium, not XT) but will do so for the first time in about two weeks.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    edited July 2010
    Mainly bike carrier (Yakima) but it's good to have that hitch ready, just in case.
    I also have a Yakima Skybox that I transfered from my 2009 VW Tdi Wagon that I traded in for the Forester XT (got sick and tired of low ground clearance and instant bottoming out VW with Class I hitch).
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    That should never happen with your XT. I put a "generous" load on my Forester a few weeks ago, using both the cargo basket on top and the cargo tray on the back. It probably deflected the suspension about 4" dead load, but the car did not ever bottom out (even on our Alaska roads!) and even handled okay with the lift on the front end. I want to get a front-mount receiver for it in order to balance the load better when using the cargo tray on trips like this, but I have to get one custom-built as they are not (so far as I can find) commercially available for our vehicle.

    image
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Wouldn't it be easier to rent a U-Haul box and tow it? That PIX looks just plain unsafe!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Haha, unsafe. I have hauled some incredibly unwieldy loads, but that certainly was not one of them. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Wes,

    I installed a class-3 hitch on my 2004 XT right after I got it. I leave the wiring harness in the spare tire well when not in use. I've pulled a 5x8 Uhaul trailer several times around town and once across the country (AZ to VA). Other than taking the expected hit to the mpg, I've never encoutered any problems.

    -Frank
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Thanks, Frank! I will be pulling a trailer (dual-position ATV/snowmobile with maybe 1000# load) next week for my annual dipnet trip, so I shall see how it works with the wiring coming through the back door. I have quite a few things to do to prepare, so if I permanently route the wiring to the exterior, it will not be until after this trip.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    edited July 2010
    By the way, 2010 Forester has 3 large holes in the spare tire well (covered with rubber plugs) that allow flat trailer elec. plug easily go through to the outside.
    All you have to do is slice the plug, run flat color coded 4- wire through and put the plug back and tape it with duct tape.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    My 2008 has a flat rubber grommet in the spare tire well, but it is too small to allow the flat plug to pass through a cut, nor would I want to cut it. It would not be possible to seal the cut grommet with the harness passing through it, wiggling and being tugged on all the time. Neither duct tape nor silicone would be permanent seal for this application.

    Nor would I want the harness stored externally by wrapping it around the hitch, or the plug dangling in the dust and spray under the bumper.

    I like the aftermarket kits that store the flat harness and the plug in the clean dry tire well, compared to the OEM harness with its pre-sealed rubber grommet and external round cable.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Well, 2010 Forester has a rubber grommet large enough for flat plug to pass through.

    Flat plug also has a rubber seal/cap that seals the contcats from elements.

    Flat plug and harness can be attached to hitch with plastic straps so that it does not wiggle.

    Cutting rubber grommet does not compromise water getting inside the spare tire well when properly taped with a duct tape. Most cars nowadays are designed with motto: water comes in - water comes/drips out. As a matter of fact, some cars have "one-way" rubber grommets that allow water to drip out (say, for example, when you put snowy flat tire in a spare tire well and snow melts...water then just drips out of the well).

    In my 40-some years wiring hitches on my new cars I never had any problem with water getting in or rusting while running wires through rubber grommets....
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Thanks - I'll have to take a closer look at those plugs. I did locate three of them, but did not think they were large enough to allow the massive T-One flat-4 connector to pass through. If it was of a smaller size, like is typical for a flat-4, it would be no problem. I also do not mind cutting and splicing the cable inside the car - I just need to get some more connectors.

    It will have to wait for now, though... too many other projects! :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I am not familiar with T-One flat 4 but a regular 4 flat connector easily goes through on of those holes and it can be easily attached to the hitch with one or two black plastic ties.
    You only slice half-way the rubber grommet, replace it and then cover it with duct tape. Works for me.
  • nhforesternhforester Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone! New to the forum, but already finding it useful!
    A few questions...Has anyone towed more than 1000# with a non-turbo Forester? I was thinking this was Lawer induced, as I have many times pulled near max loads with other vehicles and without brakes...Just some planning when stopping.
    I will be pulling about 1500# in ATVs from NH to W.VA. I need to purchase my hitch, wiring etc. Class III? Any recomendations? Also, If there are transmission lines to the radiator as i read in this post at some time, then isin't that in fact a heat excanger? (no need for cooler as well?) I have been looking into the Scan GaugeII to be able to monitor coolant and ATF temps while towing. Anyone else?
    Thanks everyone!!! :)
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I bought mine at U-Haul (Class III - model # 78182) - paid $ 149.95 plus tax $ 11.25 total $ 161.20.

    I had it installed by U-haul in less than 30 minutes for 32.50 plus tax of 2.44 - total $ 34.94 installation labor.

    I bought wiring harness T-One Vehicle Wiring harness at e-trailer.com.
    Model# 118467 for $ 34.95 plus $ 4.99 shipping - total 39.94. It plugs into existing Subaru hitch harness plug next to the spare tire (4 pole trailer connector).

    So, the complete hitch, installation and wiring came to $ 236.00

    Subaru part number L101SSC000 for above lists at $ 390 plus installation labor - appx cost, if done by Subaru, is appx $ 500.00.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    I'll second that. Class-III works great! I purchased mine (Curt 13147) on Amazon for $137.20 and installed it myself - it took about an hour and the only "specialized" tool it required was a Dremel with a grinding stone to enlarge the frame holes from Class II to Class III. I picked up my wiring harness from eTrailer as well ($39.99... even to Alaska!).

    If your total weight is 1500#, you'll be just fine without trailer brakes, but be sure to leave more distance between you and whatever you might hit if you don't stop in time because your braking distance will increase, from what I can tell, by probably 30%. I tested out my trailer, partially loaded, last night (probably 900# total at that point) and it pulled flawlessly. Braking was not noticeably impacted, but I did not do a panic stop from 55-60 mph.

    The transmission does have cooler lines into the radiator. If you plan to tow regularly and for long distances, an additional cooler as always a good idea. If not, you likely do not need one. A friend of mine towed 2000# on a 2000 Forester from Washington DC to Wasilla, AK several years back. They had no problems on the trip, but about six months later the transmission went out. It was under warranty and, since they were within manufacturer spec for towing, it was replaced under warranty (though I'm still convinced that it was that trip that killed the tranny).

    I start my trip tonight, and so far the car pulls the trailer very well, so we shall see how it does when fully loaded. Of course, there will be photos!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Love that hitch mounted cargo tray. Color me jealous.

    I'd use it for beach gear - sandy chairs, things like that. Keep the inside sand-free.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Shoot, AJ, don't be jealous, just get one! They are great! I purchased everything I needed at Amazon, free shipping! The hitch was $137.20 and the tray was $102.xx. Just do it.... :P

    I hope your trip to Brazil continues to go well!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    My car has now been initiated into the Towing Brotherhood... in style! :P

    The fuel economy was painful for an 1100-mile trip (I estimate 17 mpg based on the computer's typical optimism, but have not entered all the refueling data to determine the exact number), but the car pulled the load (1100 to 1500 # trailer, I - probably conservatively - estimate) respectably well at speeds mostly between 60-65. Add to that another 600# of cargo and three guys, and it was a good load for that little 2.5L engine.

    Braking was just fine without trailer brakes, but frequent shifting was required because fifth gear could not handle any sort of incline without losing speed. Shifts down to third gear were rare as it was very happy, on most grades, in fourth. Anything over about a 6-7% grade would require third.

    I will say that if my car was an automatic, I would *definitely* put an auxiliary transmission cooler on it to make this trip as I was frequently downshifting and running 3500-4000 RPM on the engine. I cannot really comment on coolant temperature since this goofball car has no gauge, but the high-temp warning light never came on.

    All-in-all, it was a fun trip and I look forward to doing it again next year... after I route the wiring harness through the bottom of the spare tire well! :sick:

    Leaving:
    image

    About 2/3 to the fishing site:
    image

    At camp:
    image

    Oh, the horror!
    image

    Arrival at home:
    image
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    I'm impressed. Making that Forester work for a living. :)

    Is that the car's spare under the front wheel of the 3-wheeler?

    Bob
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Yes, it is a full-size from a 2008 Forester. I figured I would much rather have that than the donut in the event I needed it. I also had two spares for the trailer. Happily, I did not need to use any of them.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    edited July 2010
    As I recall you're from Alaska, correct? How's the Subaru situation up there? Are there a lot of them on the roads? Are there enough dealers? I would assume that winter tires are recommended up there; maybe even year-round, due to the iffy roads?

    Bob
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    edited July 2010
    Bob:

    Yes, I am in Fairbanks. Subaru is extremely popular up here. If the brand was so popular everywhere in the US, it would rival the big auto makers in annual sales! There are definitely not enough dealers, but you wouldn't hear the dealers say that!

    There are three in the state (one in Fairbanks, one in Anchorage, and a third in Juneau), and the best price you will find on an in-state car is MSRP unless you have a personal connection to the store's brass. Actually, the Anchorage store shifted gears at some point in the past three years and went from being a dealer that negotiated between invoice and MSRP to adding a $2,000 dealer markup to the cars! Depending on the time of year, you might be able to negotiate as "low" as MSRP, but it's pretty sad. I would not even consider buying a car here; the only thing the local dealers are good for is warranty work and test drives.

    Winter tires are recommended, but certainly not necessary. I have a set for my '10 Forester, but did not use them before that and never had any problems with my '96 Outback. The '07 and '08 Outbacks were somewhat iffy in their all-season rubber, but that was because the RE-92A is such an awful tire. With their rear limited-slip differentials, though, they were quite a bit of fun on those tires! I will say that winter tires make a huge difference in traction on snow/ice, so I personally do recommend them.

    I don't see how using winter tires year-round would be helpful at all. If anything, keeping a good set of struts on the car is the ticket to safe summer driving.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    I ran the numbers last night on fuel/distance:

    1105.1 miles, 62.9 gallons of fuel, 17.56 mpg average fuel economy, and $217 in fuel (at average price of $3.45 per gallon). My share of the fuel and food came to about $120, so my fish cost me about $1 per pound of meat. :shades:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Incredible. Only 3 Subaru dealers in all of Alaska...

    No wonder Joe Spitz (Cars.101 in Seattle) is trying to woo Alaska customers.

    Bob
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... 1500 # trailer... Braking was just fine without trailer brakes..."

    The Forester has good brakes and does not need trailer brakes for stopping distance unless you need a panic stop. Trailer brakes are for a completely different problem - jack knifing when braking in a turn.
    I towed an unbraked 2000-lb boat with a little Mazda pickup truck for years with no problem. Until one rainy day on a twisty country road I braked to slow down in the middle of a curve, and the unbraked trailer tried to go straight and pushed the back end of the truck around.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Yeah, that's one of those lessons chalked up to experience. I did that once in my younger days as well, and it is not hard to do at all.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    And don't laugh ... I have $1000 in free Subaru Bucks to buy a hitch, harness, whatever. It's just that it's my wife's car and I don't think she wants me doing all the dirty work in her nice new ride! :D
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    edited July 2010
    Hahahahah, mine feels the same way, but I think we were a single-vehicle family long enough that she understands the give-and-take that goes along with "owning" the primary vehicle.

    To my credit, I do go to great lengths to ensure that her car is kept pristine, even if it is worked hard from time to time. :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I had to teach the kids to sit first, then kick off the sand/dirt before putting the legs in the car. ;)
  • nancy52nancy52 Member Posts: 3
    We are looking to tow a small pop-up camper with a 2009 Forester 2.5X with manual transmission. We've never towed before so want to be completely safe for ourselves and everyone else on the road!

    2 Pop-ups we had in mind are new Colemans with breaks. One is the Sedona with an unloaded vehicle weight of 1470 lbs and unloaded tongue weight of 190 lbs. It is the smaller of the two and is an 8 foot box.

    The second is the Yuma with an unloaded vehicle weight of 1645 lbs and unloaded tongue weight of 165 lbs and it is a 10 foot box.

    Questions:

    First, is this a "reasonable" weight to tow? We are only two people, used to primitive tent camping, will not be adding much more to the camper weight. (Maybe 300 pounds?)

    Why is the tongue weight more on the smaller camper? After adding the propane tank and battery, do we just try to adjust by packing more at the back end of this camper? I believe the maximum tongue weight is 200 lbs with a class 2 hitch?

    While the bigger camper is only 175 lbs more, it is our preference. How will the added 2 ft in the box length impact the tow driving? More chance for sway?

    Thanks for any replies.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    edited September 2010
    Nancy:

    Weight-wise, either of these pop-ups is fine. The car will pull the weight okay, and they are low profile so they won't buck much wind (and therefore are not likely to sway unless they are poorly loaded with too much weight near the back). If the 10' unit has a longer wheelbase, it may actually be more sure-footed than the 8' unit.

    I highly recommend that you install a class-3 on the car - it is much more versatile than the C2 and will not cost you any more to purchase & install (take a look at eTrailer.com). If you already have the C2, then never mind the suggestion!

    If you prefer the 10' unit, get it! Any weight you add to the trailer in front of the trailer axle will be apportioned between the trailer axle and the hitch, so even if you add the propane and battery, much (depending on exactly where they are located) of the weight will be born by the trailer.

    My car is a manual transmission as well; it handles towing admirably for such a small car.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • nancy52nancy52 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you so much for the reply.

    We have NOT installed the hitch yet, and I have been trying to glean info on forums as to reasons why to install class 2 versus class 3 hitch. If the maximum weight to tow on a Subaru is 2400 lbs, I had thought that the class 2 would be enough.

    I've read so many forums lately and there are so many differing opinions. I've read a few postings that say the Subaru dealership only installs certain hitches, that money is to be saved by having someone else do it..like U-haul. We live in a rural area and are limited in our choices. If it's a few hundred bucks more to have the Subaru dealership do it rather than drive an hour away to a bigger city, it would be worth it to us, it seems.

    Again, thanks for the info.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    You should be fine with either of the "pop-ups" that you have mentioned.

    I believe 2000 lbs is the max tow weight on Forester.

    Tongue weight of 200 lbs is max for Forester - you can check the weight by using a bathroom scale and resting the front end of pop-up tow on it.

    Length should not be a problem as long as you keep the max speed weight rated for that particular pop-up. I would not go over 55 MPH and avoid sharp quick turns.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    The Class-II hitch is "enough" to pull the trailer you want, but the Class III is much more versatile. If you are looking to have it installed for you, there are a variety of places that can do this work. Even if you are in a "small town," it can't be *that* small if it has a Subaru dealership!

    The cost of a hitch should be about $140 delivered to you, with the wiring another $35-40. The total install takes about an hour for a class three (which requires slight modification to the holes in the frame rail to accommodate the larger bolts) hitch. I would think it should take 30 minutes or less for a class II.

    I suspect you will spend at least $400 at the dealership for the Subaru kit (class-II) installed; anywhere else, the total cost should top out at about $300. If you do want a class-III and are concerned about finding a reputable installer, call your dealer and ask them if they will install a class III unit that you provide them.

    -----

    Keep in mind that my recommendation is just another opinion. I base my recommendation on my experience with both types and "severe duty" applications of all types including towing and auto recovery. The car is capable of short-term severe-duty work, but a class-II hitch is not up to the task.

    Some general points that may be worth pondering:

    1. Classes I and II use a 1.25" adapter; Classes III, IV, and V use a 2" adapter.
    2. Cargo trays, which mount directly to the receiver, are a very useful tool for carrying small amounts of dirty/awkwardly sized/overflow cargo outside the car. They come in 2" only (as far as I have found, anyway).
    3. Class I/II balls are not compatible with Class III/IV because they use a smaller shank. The smaller the shank, the less shear strength.
    4. You can get a 1.25" to 2" adapter for using 2" attachments, but total system strength remains limited by the 1.25" receiver.

    I am a big fan of versatility (which is why I like Subaru!), so I favor the choices that allow me the greatest future flexibility. You can scroll through images of my Forester's hitch and various uses of it on my CarSpace page, if you're interested.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    I would not go over 55 MPH and avoid sharp quick turns.

    Good advice. I have seen people get themselves in trouble with pop-ups, especially when not on asphalt most likely because, although compact, they are heavy for their size and will try to resist shifting directions.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Older Forester could tow 2000 lbs but newer ones are rated higher.

    She's got room to spare.

    I would make sure the wiring harness is compatible with the braked-trailer. Class II only comes with a 4-plug connector, and you may need the round 9-plug type, or an adaptor.

    In fact, you may want to see if the trailer folks install hitches, then you know it'll match up.
  • nancy52nancy52 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks to all for the helpful messages.
This discussion has been closed.