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Comments
I would stay away from this particular Honda dealer. Honda specifically warns its dealers not to flush fluids, but perform triple "drain-fill-drive" procedure to replace 99% of the fluid.
This dealer obviously not following the manufacturer's recommendations. Flushing Hondamatic will certainly ensure shortned service life.
What kind of fluid is in there, and when was it last replaced?
That may be the root cause fo the problem... especially if they flushed the transmission which is not recommended. Only drain and refill,.. multiple times if needed, but Honda warns against flushing.
I also doubt that they used the recommended Honda spec fluid, just cheap generic off the shelf ATF. The additive packages and specifications are different, so it can make a difference.
BINGO!!!!
Like motoguy said, chances are that JiffyLube power flushed the tranny which is not recommended by Honda. There is even a higher chance that they used something other than HONDA ATF Z-1 fluid, which is the only fluid acceptable for use in a Honda Automatic.
You can try and remedy the problem by replacing the fluid with HONDA ATF Z-1, which you would have to buy from the Dealership parts counter.
You will need to purchase enough for 3 fluids replacements. It will cost about $5/quart, depending on where you live prices may be higher or lower.
Drain the old fluid. Fill with new. Drive 5-10 miles. Drain. Fill with new. Drive. Drain. Fill with new. and PRAY that the damage to the clutch packs is not extensive. If it is, then you can try and sue JiffyLube, but you better get a number in line of all the people suing JiffyLube for damages.
Or you can pay the Honda dealer to perform "Triple fluid replacement" if they offer power flush, RUN!!!!!
Good luck!
What do you think of exploring these possibilities prior to transmission replacement?
- low level? fluid.
- transmission control module needs fixing?
- transmission mount and motor mount secure?
at 20mph, the engine will go to 3rd gear and again, run at only 1200-1500RPM.
I would bet that the same would occur at around 25-30mph when it goes to 4th gear but would still be running below 1500RPM.
The other possiblility is that the torque converter is locking up, when it should be partially unlocked. This could cause excessive loads on the engine at very low RPM's. If this is the case, disconnectign the battery terminals to reset the ocmputer, might clear it up, since the ECU may have to retrain it's shift points and torque converter lock-up parameters.
What do you think of exploring these possibilities prior to transmission replacement?
- low level? fluid.
- transmission control module needs fixing?
- transmission mount and motor mount secure?
Do the triple fluid replacement before doing anything else. If the triple fluid replacement does not help, then proceed with other diagnostics.
But to answer your question. Why bother? It's a maricle your Lebaron is still running after 15 years. Most of them were unreliable when new. Mostly electrical gremlins.
But, like most cars it's probably inside the fuel tank.
They probably damaged the seal when they installed new drive shaft.
Also, if you do get work done on the transmission, Honda's automatic transmission, aka Hondamatic, can only use Honda ATF Z-1 fluid, only available at the Honda dealer. There is no generic replacement, regardless what anyone tells you.
Timing belt schedule should be in the owner's manual. Probably 105,000 miles. It is recommended to replace the water pump at the same time, simply because it is easily accessible when everything is off to replace the timing belt. Most of the cost is labor. Timing belt it self is a $50 part.
On most cars I have seen, it is installed in the fuel line between the tank and the injectors, inside the engine compartment.
to replace solenoid valves. i've been told this would be a temp.
The whine is the torque converter. Hope this alerts someone from having the same bad experience.
Sister has a 99 crv, prob never changed the trans fluid done over 100,000. Had a prblem the other day. transmission stopped working. she put it in gear and motor revs but no movement.
she left the car there and when I went to go tow it back The trans worked again. after a few miles same thing happened. seems when it warms up it doesn't work. then when it is cold works ok. Just wondering if I should do a triple fluid change as stated lots in this forum. or is the trans stuffed and just put a new one in.
any help much appreciated
thank you...
basically when the front wheels slip, it causes a difference in pressure between the two pumps in the rear differential ( one pump is powered by the propeller shaft, and the second by the rear half shafts ) the difference in pressure pushes open a valve, and pushed the clutch pack togehter causing power to be sent to the rear shafts, once traction is restored to the front wheels, or if the differential over heats, the valve is closed and the clutch pack is released. the Dual Pump Fluid II not only powers the hydraulic system, but it also lubricates and cools the differential. the rear differential also has a "breathing tube" on the top. after so many miles ( it depends on driving habbits, conditions, and debris/contaminates in the fluid ) the fluid needs to be replaced, the clutch packs will eventually need to be burnished, and the differential may need to be flushed.
bad fluid or clutch packs will cause a groan, or a grinding sound. but only when the clutch packs are engaged.
to check the fluid level, unbolt the top filler bolt and stick your finger in, you should be able to feel fluid level with the treads. to drain the differential open the filler bolt, and the lower bolt, replace drain ( lower ) bolt and fill with about one and a half bottle of dual pump fluid ( about $8.50 US ) make sure fluid is level with filler bolt. drive about fifteen minutes and check fluid again. if you have been having problems you may want to either get clutch packs burnished or you could repeat the changing process at least 3 times, until when emptying the differential all that comes out is new fluid.
Also a lot of shifting issue are cured by doing the 3 drain and fills with genuine Honda ATF Z1 (now DW1)
So, not sure if I should be looking more at the cruise control vs the transmission. I'm reluctant to take the car to the local Honda folks as their fix for my a/c cycling off for a minute or longer on a hot days was to tell me Honda recommends that you should always run your a/c in recycle mode. My fear is that they'll want to replace the tires.
Suggestions? Thanks.
Now I am interested in buying a new CR-V, so I would like to know if Honda's transmission problem still persists and if it affects the CR-V 2013 models.
Any information would be helpful. Thank you!
The current generations CR-V uses a 5 speed automatic. This transmission was introduced in 2002 Accord (I think) and had early issues, but is now bulletproof.
Several weeks ago it had begun slipping. Only happens when the trans goes from 1st to 2nd gear. Everything else is fine. I had it into the same shop again since it has a warranty, he said he couldnt find any issue. He said nothing looked wrong. But he took the whole thing apart, redid it just to be sure, said he changed some wiring to new (don't know what that meant), rode it all over and said it was fine. I had it for a day, was doing great, and then this afternoon it starts to buck again between 1st and 2nd when you start from a dead stop. Again all other gears are fine. VERY frustrating. Anyone have this issue, or any ideas? Should I take it to a different person for a second opinion?
Thanks!