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Comments
Black wet and sooty, is too much fuel with maybe not enough spark.
What error codes are being set in the computer?
Since the ignition timing is computer controlled, I am suspecting the PCM.
Chevy dealership said that they will do a complete diagnosis for $75 and it will go towards the solution, be it computer flashing or whatever.
Otherwise I can get a PCM cheap from the local pull apart, but I'd be taking my chances being that the PCM is to be reprogrammed with your own VIN#.
Just wanted to let you know that you are not alone.
If it's on the side, then try to pick up whether it's coming from the front, or back.
Recently installed a starter and a "resistor." Not 100% sure what the deal was with resistor, but those are the only recent changes to vehicle.
Post-starter install it's been fine for him. However, he got a code and had another friend plug in the scanner to find out what it was.
Now, his "tow" light comes on whenever he starts the car and has a starting issue. From what I understand, every time the truck is started (regardless of cold or warm start) it takes a while to start. It does start, but from what he described it was like a slow start.
Is there anything that would cause the "tow" light to come on and also cause the weak start?
Not familiar with the suburbans, but can get whatever info may help...
What is really odd is that the problem has occured on two different situations:
1.) Most recently on a return from an extended vacation (>5 days) the car would not start or stay running at idle
2.) a quick stop at a store for 5 minutes, return to vehicle and it will not start or stay running.
The fuel rail losing pressure sounds likely but the fuel pressure regulator does NOT have gas in the vacuum line and each situation above seems like they are mutually exclusive.
Thanks
Jeff
Joe
Thanks for any help you can give.
Picture is at http://berkey.biz/starter.jpg
My Suburban's starter is not turning fast enough to start the truck. In fact it acts like the batteries are both drained. The batteries have both been charged, and I hooked up jumper cables to boost the power when trying to start, but it didn't change the symptoms.
My inspection of the cables showed no corrosion at the terminals. My inspection of the starter innards shows grooving in the brushes and copper (aren't they supposed to be smooth?), and from what I understand from past starters, there are supposed to be slots between the copper contacts (at least I think that's what I've seen before), but there isn't on this one. I've never before seen a worn out starter in terms of the copper contacts, so I am wondering if you think this starter looks perfectly functional or if it has run its lifespan. Take a look at the picture, and if you have any questions, leave an answer or email me at "adam @ berkey . biz" (no spaces)
Thanks...
I took it down to Schucks to get tested, but their test doesn't include the friction of the compression of an engine, so I'm wondering though it passed the test on their testing equipment, that the actual use of it trying to compress the cylinders in the truck need more "juice."
jstroos
You could end up throwing a lot of unnecessary parts into trying to fix this, based on suggestions you might end up with.
How many miles on the vehicle? How do the plugs look? Are there any error codes in the computer? Is the vehicle due for, and/or have you tuned it up recently? What prior maintenance has been done on the vehicle, and anything related to this problem? There's a lot of factors that go into trying to diagnose the problem.
I'd start by taking it somewhere who will check your computer for error codes. That may point the technician (or you) to a particular area to start looking at. Some autoparts chains will read the error codes for free for you.
Personally I've had gas sit in a tank and "separate" (looks like "Varsol") and ruin a brand new fuel pump and screen. Hope my thoughts put you in the right direction.
My problem is that my sensor keeps going bad and it happens around this time every year. Not sure if it is moisture getting in to the sensor, wiring, connectors or something else.
The only other thing that was different about the truck that normally doesn't happen is the 4x4 was actually working. From the time I purchased the truck (last January 09) the four-wheel drive hasn't worked. We have snow here and just for curiosity, I put it in four-wheel drive and low and behold it worked. Then the next day it wouldn't start.
It's a 1995 Chevy Tahoe LS 4x4 5.7L
I'm not sure if the starter is the problem, although I think it probably is. I wanted to know if there are other problems that would cause my truck to do this so I don't run out and buy a starter, install it, and it not be the solution. Any other suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Meisha
When a battery is going bad, it will generally hold enough voltage/charge to power the things that don't take much power. However, when you go to try and use the starter (which draws over a hundred amps), the battery can't supply the power needed, and you hear a click click from the starter solenoid trying to engage.
Most autoparts chains will check your battery and alternator for free.
Most batteries are good for 3-5 year timeframe, and the cold winter are the hardest start conditions for a battery, so you generally find batteries failing in the winter.
You may have left some lights on in the vehicle from the prior day, so just don't arbitrarily replace the battery without having it tested....unless you know you have been having issues with it and it's at end of life.
The better autoparts chains can do a battery and alternator 'load test', where they can test that the alternator is putting out full voltage and current. Have this done first. You may have a bad diode in the alternator.
Once you know the alternator and battery are in excellent shape, verify that you don't have any corrosion on your battery connections, up inside the cable connections, or where they attach to the starter and engine ground.
Then you will need to have an electrical shop check for what is draining the battery. They can put a current monitor on the battery, and see how much current is being drained out, and then start unplugging fuses to help isolate what is in the ON state when it shouldn't be.
Just only as an example, not to suggest this is your problem, but I had a relay go bad in my 97 Suburban years ago, where it was constantly providing power to the rear heater unit and blowing low speed air constantly. If the car had sat for any period, the battery would be drained and dead. It could be power seats, windows, A/C, just about anything.
Good luck