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Can you please e-mail me with your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and contact information. I would like to look into this further for you.
Christina
GM Customer Service
Unfortunately, this cycle started repeating itself until it became an everyday event. I bought this vehicle before I moved to Europe so I wouldn't have any problems and am not pleased. Good luck finding a GM dealer in Europe. GM customer service hasn't even responded to my questions.
Today I located a Corvette and Cadillac dealer that agreed to take a look at the vehicle. On the way to the dealer the vehicle started behaving erratically. This was the first occurrence of any abnormal behavior once started. Twice when I stepped on the accelerator the vehicle seemed to shift itself to neutral and the RPMs rapidly climbed, simultaneously all of the door locks opened and closed repeatedly on their own. Additionally, the tach and speedo were moving from max indication to minimum indication in no relation to actual speed or RPM. All warning and/or advisory lights illuminated and the environmental control unit shut off. I could not accelerate during this period and nearly caused an accident trying to get off the road. After approximately 45 seconds the indications returned to normal and I could regain control of the accelerator and the transmission operated normally. I limped it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong. The language barrier is a big problem, but they agreed to keep it a few days to run checks.
I see that some of you are having problems fixing similar problems in the USA, I am worried that my situation is hopeless in Europe. Please help me with any suggestions I can give to the dealer. The vehicle is under warranty but it is apparently nearly impossible to get warranty work paid for in Europe. If I can't get this fixed I may have to ship the truck back home at great cost to myself.
Thanks
With a new, fully charged battery, door buzzer, horn and interior lights are working. Turn the key - starter gives one grunt and then everything goes dead - no buzzer, horn, lights, etc.
This is a 1990 R2500 Suburban, hydraulic-assisted, 4-speed manual transmission, two wheel drive, 350 cid. I removed the alternator and starter and had them checked at the local parts store. They test good. Battery cables are not corroded. The vehicle has been operating just fine until this.
I'm a pretty good parts replacer but not a good diagnostician.
As far as the procedure requiring removal of the dipstick in order to get the starter out: That is no rumor, it is fact, and pointed to as necessary in the GM service manual for my 2001 K 1500 Suburban. After ten years, there was enough corrosion that heating the boss (with a Mapp gas torch) where the tube fits into the block was quite necessary. It is a two-person job! I had to reduce the diameter of the new tube in order to get it into the block. I believe that there should have been a designed-in clearance instead of a press or interference fit, especially in light of an o-ring seal being a part of the tube assembly.
-Steve
-Steve
I apologize and understand your frustration. If you would like to email me I would be happy to look into this for you. Please include your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, as well as complete contact information including a good number to reach you. Thank you!
Christina
GM Customer Service
I apologize for you inconvenience. Can you please email me directly and include your VIN and what you are experiencing specifically?
Christina
GM Customer Service
I apologize for your frustration. Can you please email me your VIN? I look forward to your response.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I've got a 2001 that's had a couple "not starting" issues in the past.
One issue was the fuel pump was intermittently not providing enough pressure. I hooked up a pressure gauge and left it under the hood to finally figure this out. I could hear the pump run for 3 seconds when the key was turned on but no pressure on the gauge. The filter and regulator had both been replaced previously. Filter is about $8-15, regulator $30-50, Delphi fuel pump ~$300. You have to drop the gas tank to replace the fuel pump.
Another more common issue is the butterfly in the front of the intake gets carbon build up. A quick remedy is to disconnect the air tube to get access. Open the butterfly with your fingers and insert the handle of a large screwdriver to hold the butterfly open. Use a solvent that is sensor safe and a rag to clean the edges of the butterfly and the throat. Use gasoline, injector cleaner or anything to soften the carbon up and wipe it out with the rag. The dealer will charge several hundred $$$ to de-carbon the intake.
This tip came from a Saturday mechanic show and found it's common to see on many makes of vehicles. Usually you'll have surging idle speeds or rough idle before it gets bad enough that it wont start.
It seems like what contributes to this problem is there's a vent tube that dumps crankcase fumes into the manifold right where the cold air comes in through the butterfly and it tends to carbon up and at 70,000+ miles starts to become noticeable and more frequent.
It had also had a bad cam position sensor pigtail once. There was an engine code that kicked. I'd replaced the sensor but later found that a squirrel must have chewed the wires on the back of the motor.
Probably the worst and most expensive reason I've read about is the ECU was intermittently not firing the injectors and had to be replaced.
My '01 Tahoe is having the same problem. Did you find what the problem was? I would REALLY appreciate it. Thank you!
I would like to know how your situation was resoled. Please let me know.
Thank you and have a nice weekend.
On the coldest day of the year in January, a similar thing happened to my '01 Suburban. I left a business with the engine running fine, but when I entered a controlled-access state highway (like an interstate) it would not accelerate normally. I could only attain about 50 mph, and the engine stumbled badly if I tried to open the throttle more. With it running so poorly, I figured it would be best to get off the highway at the first opportunity. As I slowed for the big 180 degree curve, the engine stopped running, and I coasted to a stop on the shoulder of the exit. The engine almost restarted a couple of times but would not run. I called for a tow. Good thing I had a heavy coat, hat, and gloves!
I sprayed a small amount of starting fluid into the intake at home, and the engine fired for as long as the vapor lasted. Like garciar, I also could not hear the telltale sound of the fuel pump from right by the tank when a family member turned on the ignition. I ordered a new pump and filter, and installed them myself. That fixed the problem immediately, and the truck has run without that problem since, including a recent 2000+ mile trip.
Dropping the fuel tank on a Suburban is no job for a mechanical novice.
Because of the method of attachment for the fuel lines (so-called quick-connects) and their locations, in particular the front two, it is obvious that the chassis for my truck was completed (including the fuel system) prior to dropping the body onto the frame. There is simply no way to disconnect the plastic over-tank lines without severing them, so they either have to be cut and replaced or the pump has to be changed with the lines still connected at the front, which is what I did. The process is incredibly difficult. I see why the labor cost is so high for the job.
One note to any D-I-Y mechanic out there: I struggled with the large hose section which connects the metal fuel filler pipe to the plastic tank. It was so stiff that I feared damage to the ($400+) tank's spout from straining to get the hose off, so I cut it with a knife. I figured maybe $20 - 30 at the dealership for the hose, less than a foot long and maybe 2" in diameter. Not so. The hose price at the dealer was $135! This is a GM-only part. I found one online discounted to just under $100. Sheesh! :surprise:
Today the rear air started acting up. The front blows cold, but the rear blows hot...anyone have a fix?
If you do not mind, I'd like to know how many miles were on your Suburban when the problem surfaced? My 2001 model was right about 115,000 when the pump went out, so I can't feel too bad about it.
One thing I also wonder about is the remote start. We just started using it about 2 weeks ago for the first time. Now all of the sudden, my car won't start.
Has anybody ran across a problem like this with their car? I am at my wits end..I am a traveling photographer, and have gotten stranded at a handful of shoots because of this.
Any help is appreciated greatly!
I apologize for your frustrations. Have you spoke with your dealer yet? If not, I would recommend starting there. Please feel free to email me with your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and contact information. I look forward to hearing from you. Have a great weekend!
Christina
GM Customer Service
If your engine won't turn over even with a jump and it appears no fuel is getting to the engine, and BEFORE paying your mechanic to replace your fuel pump system (~$900) or anything similar, go to youtube and check out this video that was recently sent to me. Just type in "Stories from the Road, GM Passlock Issue from Hell" I believe this may be the issue with many of these GM vehicles. Hopefully it helps someone.
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service