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I will ask the dealer to check out the BCM, however the battery is holding a charge, no issue with a low battery at all. I am looking forward to finding the answer to my Tahoe's issues.
Thanks,
Suzanne
Jim
Many more happy miles,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
ive replaced ignition switches and relays..checked the starter...it all goes away for a while...but returns ...........my dash, ac control lights aswell as the speedometer lights are out too ........Any luck finding the problem?
OK what I have done so far:
Started it with Starting fluid( she ran, so no ignition issues)
Fuel pump can be heard priming & fuse is OK, Replaced the pressure regulator, (fuel was present when replaced)
Used some rather nasty words!!
Any suggestions on my next step?
I few hints if anyone is interested in doing this on ther own such as myself:
Before you start you must disconnect the power and remove the gas cap.
1. jack the rear end up and put it on stands .
2. remove drive shaft and clips on the heat sheild (that is on the tank)
3 remove filler & vent hose.
4. put pressure on the tank with a floor jack
5. remove stap bolts
6 lower tank all the way down ( you have to stop half way and push the hoses over the axal). The front of the tank will rest on a slanted part of the frame and the rear of the tank will rest on the ground.(just enough room to remove the pump)
7. remove switches, fuel line on pump.
8. liquid wrentch the retaining nut and remove as much rust as possible.
9. remove retaining nut and remove pump.
10. reverse the procedure to replace the pump.
I hope this help someone out there
If the fuse to the starter is being cooked, then the amperage from the battery is not getting to where it was designed to go when you turn the key. Possibilities include the starter itself, or the starter solenoid, or wiring/connectors in the circuit that has become frayed/worn/corroded. and incapable of carrying the current.
The problem I had some years ago was a bad (corroded) connection between the main negative battery ground strap and the engine block. It caused a fusible link to melt several times. The dealership missed the issue, and it cost me a starter and an alternator before I found it myself. Intermittently, the system would decide to do nothing more than produce a faint click when a start was attempted, but the lights and all accessories worked.
Wife was driving home and right before getting to the house it started acting like it was out of gas. Managed to get it home, and it would start for a second but then die. It did this for about 20 minutes, and then wouldn't even start to try.
Turns over, gets spark. Replaced plugs and fuel filter. Security light is off. If I spray fuel in the intake it runs for just a second but dies. What would be the next step?
Its in the shop today for an oil change and again...I'm complaining about the lag time in starting! After reading all these blogs I called the manager back and said I have some suggestions...turns out they have finally figured out why its having issues.....FUEL PUMP MODULE is bad. Thank heavens!! fix the damn thing its irritating me!!! We'll see if this works...now lets just hope extended warranty covers the cost!
After 3-4weeks, I tried to start, bingo! it was fine. After 2-3weeks, it won;t start again. I wait 2-3weeks and start it. Sometime it won't start, Then it start again after 2-3weeks. Does anyone have any idea?
Thanks
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Sarah, GM Customer Service
A high amperage cable such as the one used for the main connection between the battery and the block (negative or ground) or between the battery and the starter solenoid (positive) is big for a reason: It has to carry the full power of the battery. On most cars, the starter motor requires a higher flow of current than any other device. Even when the starter is not engaged, electrical current for all other accessories such as headlights, computers, climate control, etc. flows through the cables.
A hot cable indicates that it is defective. If it is hot at one end, then the indication is for a problem with the connector being corroded or loose, either where it is attached to the cable, or where it attaches to the battery or other part.
If you had wanted for us to check into anything with your dealership (labor rates, even) we'd be happy to do so. Please send your request to us via email at socialmedia@gm.com (also include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and the name of your preferred dealership).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
Do you know if GM has issued a recall on this electrical problem.
On a seperate note, I have the I&L type windshield wipers. I heard there was a bulletin on replacing the I&L type with J-hook. do you know if this is true?
Thanks
We can check your vehicle to see if there are any open recalls on it if you wanted to send us the last 8 digits of your VIN (email again is socialmedia@gm.com).
As the bulletins are intended for use by our technicians and as we're not technically trained in Customer Service, I am unable to discuss any TSBs at this time unfortunately.
Sarah, GM Customer Service
I sent my info to email address. New battery dead today. Something is draining it any help is appreciated
My ’98 Chevy Tahoe, 223K miles has become slightly difficult to start. I must turn the engine over for two seconds wait three seconds then hit the starter again for two seconds, then it runs and runs like a top. This started in August and occurs independent of heat or humidity. If it has been recently driven it also starts right up. I have replaced the spark plugs, high tension coil, distributer cap and fuel filter resulting in a slight improvement. The fuel pump was replaced by the dealership at 150K miles. Thank you in advance for your guidance.
Thanks Again,
If the motor starts immediately, what it will tell you is this: There is likely a loss of fuel pressure between the time that the motor is turned off, and you start it again. There may be a very slight leak (even inside the tank at the pump) in a line, or a check valve which is supposed to hold pressure between runs is failing. Unless there is an external leak, it is probably nothing to worry about, and it does not indicate an imminent fuel pump failure. Can you detect the odor of gasoline anywhere around the truck or in the engine compartment? A failing fuel injector system may allow the pressure loss from the fuel rail, and let gas trickle into the engine. If the oil on your dipstick smells strongly like gasoline, that is the likely culprit, and it should be repaired.
In the old days when the mechanical fuel pump was mounted to the side of engines, a leak could cause gas to quickly fill up the crank-case. The results were not good!
If it still requires the crank, wait, and crank again method before the engine will start, it just may indicate that the motor has lost some compression, and takes a few extra rotations to build sufficient cylinder pressure for combustion. That does not necessarily mean that the motor is nearing the end of it's life cycle, either. Some wear is always normal, considering how many miles each piston has traveled in its bore through a quarter of a million on the road. Basic calculations lead me to believe that each piston has probably traveled 99,000 miles, moving 3.5 inches up and down with each rotation of the crank!
A third option which comes to mind is that the fuel injectors are no longer producing as broad or well-atomized spray patterns as they did when they were newer. There are cleaners used through the fuel which can help, but the only real answer might be to service (replace) the injection system, not a task that is lightly undertaken. Note that the CSFI system is fully enclosed inside of the top intake manifold. There are many discussions regarding that system to be found on the 'net, and it would be good reading to further your understanding of how it works and what it looks like. There is at least one Multi-Port Fuel Injection system which can be utilized as a replacement, and there may be benefits in doing that conversion.
Typically, if the CSFI system is at fault, the engine will not run well at all, and fuel economy will suffer a lot. Still, if the motor runs well, but that system is indeed leaking raw fuel into the crank-case between engine runs, it may be necessary to do something about it. Understand that it will be expensive!
Good luck!
When the pump failed on my Suburban, I had just left a business, headed for a freeway. The truck was stumbling and would not accelerate on the entrance ramp. I managed about two miles @ 50mph, and there was no power for acceleration. When I got off at the next exit, the engine quit while I coasted around the curve. As yours, it would sometimes restart but not run. The pump was it, and the replacement job is a BEAR!
Regarding what to look out for during the pump change: You might want to scan the "Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe No Start Problems" and the "Chevy Suburban/Tahoe Rough Idle and Stalling" discussions. I know I posted the procedure I used somewhere in this forum, but can't find it right now. One partipant listed what he did, post #347 in the "No Start" thread. Because it was cold when I did the pump, and because it was old, I had to cut the large diameter filler hose which connects directly to the tank to get it off more easily. Be forewarned: Although less than 18" long, that hose is $150!!! :mad:
No problems for two years
Then yesterday pulled it out of the garage and went ot start it again and nothing dead again...called Triple A they came out tested the battery, had Allied out to test the fuses and other components and he found nothing accept back door windows don't open, engine is dead won't turn over, door locks won't work and lights won't work. Someone told us ot disconnect the battery...THAT DOES NOT WORK AND MAKES IT WORSE. Now no headlights and car is really dead...nothing works.
Finally had it towed to Allen Cadillac and I am told it is the BCM module for $700 I can have it repaired.
Really crappy deal you have to have the GM Computer Machinery to fix a car as it is all computerized...used to be able to buy a part and replace it yourself.
I think they want you to have to pay them to fix everything...and then charge you hundreds of dollars for labor. For instance you can buy this part for $243.00 but they are charging over $500 for labor that probably takes less than a half hour to fix. Even under the warranty manual repair the rate they get paid to replace the BCM is probably a lot less than what they are charging me now.
So I asked the dealer today....shouldn't this be covered under warranty since this car has been brought in for this problem since it was new? They said well it's out of warranty now and we can't do anything for you....ot call the factory and ask them...maybe they will reimburse you.
I'm sorry that you're having this issue with your vehicle. However, I would like to look into your concern. Can you please email your issue with the Tahoe to socialmedia@gm.com (attn: Marlea)? I look forward to your response and assisting you.
Marlea W.
GM Customer Service
Here are two things to try - when the problem arises again, use your key fob to lock / unlock the doors - that should reset the security system and allow the truck to start.
Another option would be to just pull the Anti-Theft fuse labeled TPC Batt 10 Amp in the under hood fuse block. See if that allows your truck to start.
To reset your gauge cluster you can try removing the -NEG Battery cable from the battery - allow it to remain off of the vehicle for 30 mins and then replace the cable. Turn your key to the ON position (not start) for 3 mins which allows the PCM to reset.
PS Before you pull the -NEG Batt cable turn your radio and climate control off. Also you might want to make sure that you have your radio security code before you pull the cable because in some cases this causes the radio to go into a lock-out mode which will require the code to unlock this mode.