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2001 - 2006 Honda CR-Vs

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Comments

  • SpyponderSpyponder Member Posts: 128
    How's your CR-V holding up in that wacky New England weather the last few days?
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    Our 1997 CR-V has been trouble-free for the most part. Biggest complaint is the lack of power. Second is the engine and road noise. However, car is solid. Very little rattle and squeaks, or other strange noises. Personally I would go for a 1999 model when the power was upgraded to 146 hp, plus additional helpful features such as illuminated power window switches, over-drive cancel switch on the transmission lever, etc. If you plan to use the car primarily in the city and you don't have a large family, then it may be an ideal car.
  • varmitvarmit Member Posts: 1,125
    Last night I was out driving through puddles just for the fun of it. :-)

    Actually I saw more bad weather in Chicago than we've had back here. I got stuck overnight in the windy city on my way to the left coast. My return trip took me through San Jose to avoid more storms in that area. Maybe Boeing should invest in RT4WD. ;-)
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Can I reprogram a keyless remote for a 1998-1999 Accord for my 1999 CRV? Just wondering if all Honda remotes are reprogrammable?
  • SpyponderSpyponder Member Posts: 128
    That's my neck of the woods. If I had known you were coming, I would've baked you a cake!

    For the record, two years in our '99 CR-V as of this month, and so far, not one problem. My wife (it's her daily driver) is talking like she wants to buy it when our lease is up next December. Anyone know how the resale value has held up?
  • varmitvarmit Member Posts: 1,125
    Spy - I was only in the airport for a few hours. There are actually a lot of CR-Vers out in the bay area that I'd like to meet. Can't help you with the resale. I haven't checked lately. I'll be driving mine for quite a while (unless I win that MDX that I registered for...). My '99 will be two years old in the Spring. We've got 33,000+ on it with absolutely no repairs necessary.

    Mikefm98 - Dunno. Pardon me while I act like Mr. Technical... The remote doesn't get programmed, it's the receiver that does. So it's just a matter of getting the car to accept the output from the keyfob. Of course, you can't have a CR-V remote on one frequency and an Accord remote on another wave. At least that's the way it works with my aftermarket system. When I had to get one remote replaced (dog chewed it), I had to bring both remotes in so that they match the frequencies.
  • reiner4reiner4 Member Posts: 24
    I also live in the San Jose area (Gilroy) and have seen 97's & 98's in the SJ Merc going for between $ 16K and $18K - especially over at Anderson Honda where I picked up my '99 EX Auto back in 9/99. I would imagine 99's commanding somewhere between $ 17.5K and the high $ 19.5K range. I think overall the resale value has held up quite well.

    When visiting some friends in the Almaden area I couldn't help but notice that their next door neighbor has 2 CR-V's ! One LX and one EX - go figure. I'm thinking if we didn't have a space requirement for our Grand Caravan, that we could easily be a 2 CR-V family.

    The wife drives the van, and I switch off between the CR-V and our our 'rotation car' - an '83 Porsche 944 driven (rotated in) to try and keep the miles down on the CR-V. After 15 months I already have 25K miles on the 'V' and still lovin' it ! As much fun, if not more, than the 944. See ya on the roadways....
  • ccapsuperccapsuper Member Posts: 4
    I just purchased a pair of transmitters off of Ebay. I was told by the seller that they would work with my '99 LX. However, I have received conflicting feedback on this. I did not buy my Crv with remote entry and some say (including the seller) that all Crvs are wired for it and all I need to do is buy the remote and program it. Other seem to think only the Ex models will work. Does anyone know the actual answer to this...the remotes haven't arrived yet.
  • varmitvarmit Member Posts: 1,125
    ccapsuper - The hardware is in all US CR-Vs (in the door, I believe). All you need are the remotes. I have the EX myself, but I've read many posts here about folks that have just purchased the key fobs.

    Reiner4 - Right, you're forced to drive the Porche to keep the miles down on a CR-V? Sounds pretty tough. :-)
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    ccapsuper - My 1999 CRV had the keyless entry already installed, only the remote had to be programmed. I'm looking for an extra remote for my son and have seen remotes on ebay that are listed as being from an Accord, but the person feels they can be reprogrammed for my CRV. But they did say to check with the dealer to be sure before bidding.
  • quecoqueco Member Posts: 2
    Please respond ASAP as I am at the point of deciding. I currently have the opportunity to buy a used 1997 CR-V in very good condition for approximately $12,000 (ABS and 4WD). The CR-V has only 37K miles on it and has some paint scratches on one side. The seller will either sell it to me or trade it in to a dealer for the same amount of money. On the other hand, my wife is saying "why not just get a new Civic, then?" Could somebody please bail me out? Please feel free to send answers to my e-mail (queco@aol.com)
    Thanks.
  • bookerdpbookerdp Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had this problem. I went out this morning and my 2000
    CR-V that I have had less than six months wouldn't start. Because it's so cold here in St. Louts I thought it was the battery, but according to AAA it was the starter. He banged on it a few times and it started right up. I took it straight to the dealership, where it
    started every time, so they would not fix it since they did not witness the problem. I understand this but it is frustrating because in order to get it fixed, it has to happen again and I might not be
    lucky enough to be at home next time.
  • varmitvarmit Member Posts: 1,125
    Queco - The CR-V will haul more than the Civic. Statistics-wise, it's more reliable than a Civic. It has 4WD and good off-road clearance for sticky situations. There's enough cargo room to haul most any household items. It'll get more looks than a Civic. There's more room for passengers in the CR-V.

    The question is; do you need any of that?

    If the answer is "no", then get the Civic. The Civic gets much better gas mileage, handles better, rides quieter,... You get the idea.

    Bookerdp - Sounds like a one time fluke (like a wet wires, or an ice between connections kinda thing). I can only suggest that you get the AAA guy to explain why thumping the starter fixed the problem.
  • quechuaquechua Member Posts: 1
    I was just about to purchase the Accord, but then I was wandering around the show room, and wanted to look into the CR-V. I have an offer to trade-in my current vehicle plus $12,400 for either the Accord EX or the CR- EX with roof rack (in stock...$100 more for ordering a special CR-).

    Can someone give me some pros and cons with this situation? I want a vehicle that sits higher, and may give me better lower back support. Input welcome! Thank you!
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    Unless you have to have the high seating position, and live in a climate that needs the AWD, I would say for similar money, go for the Accord LX-V6. It's just as roomy as the CR-V, and much more satisfying to drive. Or wait for the next generation CR-V.
  • sue4141sue4141 Member Posts: 3
    My 3 month old CRV makes a clicking sound whenever I have on the intermittent wipers, either fron or rear. Does anyone know if this is normal?
  • kaygirlkaygirl Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone else living in the cold, snowy states experienced a problem with their windows icing up on the inside. I have to spend more time scraping the inside of the windows off than I do clearing the snow from the outside. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • bailiebailie Member Posts: 12
    You may be circulating inside air. Change your setting to use outside air and you should not have any more icing up problems. Hope this helps.
  • clarkebdclarkebd Member Posts: 7
    Hi All - does anyone know when the next generation CR-V will be released, and if so, what will change on it. It appears not much has changed from '00 to '01 models. Thanks.
  • varmitvarmit Member Posts: 1,125
    Clarkebd - The next gen CR-V is rumored to have a larger 4 cyl engine (perhaps a version of the Accord 2.4L). I wouldn't expect a drastic increase in options or design. We may lose the double wishbone suspension as the platform (Civic) already lost it. This change may allow for the larger engine and even better crash ratings. It's not due out until late 2001 as a 2002 model.

    All of the above is pure speculation based on other speculations from car magazines and what I know of Honda's design tendencies. Honda has a nasty habit of being extremely secretive about new designs. They've gone so far as to release a 9/10ths scale prototype of a car (specifically the MDX) only a few months before production [read smokescreen]. I wouldn't expect to get "good" information until the Summer of 2001.
  • snowlingsnowling Member Posts: 2
    Last winter got a 4wd ext cab ranger which I really love but looking to trade in for a CRV or possibly the new ford escape. Have had a lot of snow fall recently, see how my 4wd handles it but can get some fishtailing. How is the AWD feature in the CRV? THe smaller size tires offer any problems? Someone who's driven both 4wd and AWD tell me what they found different... pros/cons.
    thanks
  • varmitvarmit Member Posts: 1,125
    Snowing - The RT4WD set up in the CR-V is pretty basic. It's a front wheel driver until there's enough slippage to activate the system. When that slipping happens, the system sends a proportional amount of torque to the rear axle. The more slip, the more torque. It works, and since it's a front driver 99.9% of the time, it helps with fuel efficiency. There are also fewer losses in power due to friction in the drivetrain (the more complicated the system, the more room for power loss). Since the system is part-time, you can drive on mixed terrain (bare roads with icy patches) without damaging your axles. That particular factor is a problem with true 4x4s.

    Those are the pros. The cons are that the system reacts to slipping rather than preventing it. Typically, it engages within a second, but this may be a second too late. Systems like the ones in Soobs are faster reacting and generally better if your only concerns are slick conditions. The CR-V's system is best thought of as a little extra security and a good way to get unstuck when you get into trouble.

    My suggestions would be to drive like the CR-V is a FWD car and let the system engage when it needs to. Go slow and remember that 4WD has nothing to do with stopping. For what it's worth, my CR-V has behaved much better than other cars I've owned even when the system is not engaged.
  • robodocrobodoc Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    I've got a '99 Honda CR-V EX Automatic that has started exhibiting a knock when the engine is cold. This disappears after ~ 1-2 minutes of idling or driving. We've racked up 32,000 miles.

    The dealer listened to the knock and handed me a bulletin from Honda to the Honda service organizations which said that this is normal.
    The note is a short paragraph which says:
    "Cold Start Knock
    To some degree, cold start knock (piston slap) is a normal characteristic on 4-stroke gasoline engines. It happens when the engine is cold (piston-to-cylinder clearance is at its greatest, and most of the oil has drained back into the pan). As the engine warms up, the knock whould quickly diminish, usually within 2 to 3 minutes."

    I don't believe I agree but I thought I'd check with all you other Honda CR-V owners before pursuing Honda. If this was true, then I'd have been hearing this knock last Winter. So my dilemna is this: Is abnormal engine wear occurring which will shorten the life or is this really "normal"? As the warranty expires in ~3500 miles I need to decide soon.

    Thanks.
  • nashernasher Member Posts: 1
    robodoc, I too have a 1999 Honda CR EX. It has 34,000 miles. I bought it in Texas, but have been living in Colorado since September. I have started my car quite often when the temperature was below 15 degrees. I have never heard any noise or knock. The oil I use is 5W30. I wonder if that has any effect.
    I'd like to add that I have not had even the teeniest bit of problem with my CRV and I have driven it all over the western and mountain states.
  • varmitvarmit Member Posts: 1,125
    Robodc - Well it is true that the oil will filter down to the pan and not be there to protect the cylinders upon starting, but my '99 EX (35+K) hasn't started knocking. My last oil change was done at the dealer, so I'm running on the standard weight. Call another dealer and see if you get the same response.
  • mrsmacmrsmac Member Posts: 2
    I live in Michigan and have the same problem. All of the windows ice up on the inside and no matter what setting I put it on, it doesn't seem to help! I've never had a car that did this before. Does anyone else have any suggestions??
  • bailiebailie Member Posts: 12
    This is not normal. Set you buttons to circulate outside air and also make sure your air conditioned is on.
  • tomsrtomsr Member Posts: 325
    If the CRV has hydraulic lifters they may need to pump up and cold weather makes it worse.Changing to a lighter 10w40 oil might help.I have had many
    Hondas and never experienced this noise.Of course I live in a warm climate.
  • motorhomemanmotorhomeman Member Posts: 1
    I tow my 2000 CRV behind my motorhome. Parked next to another CRV owner the other day and had a discussion about the cars. He asked if I had received my recall notice affecting cars that were towed. Said that he had received notice very recently advising that if you had towed a CRV to return it to dealer for some front end part replacement. I have heard nothing from Honda and have found nothing on the web about this. Anyone know about it?
  • varmitvarmit Member Posts: 1,125
    Motor - This shouldn't be a problem for you. My understanding is that Honda did not completely spell out the towing instructions in early CR-V owner manuals. They gaffed the instructions for towing a CR-V with an automatic transmission. Follow the guidelines in your CR-V's manual as only early editions were incorrect.

    For information about this sort of thing, you can usually get answers from the folks at the CR-V Information Exchange. This particular issue was brought up there only a few days ago.
  • darryl10darryl10 Member Posts: 37
    I have driven 4wd, awd (my old Audi Quattro) and currently my CRV. First, I think 4wd sucks in the snow! It is only good at keeping you from getting stuck from a stop. Since the wheels spin at the same rate, the only way it can go around a curve is by THE WHEELS SLIPPING! The las place you want to lose traction is going through a curve! My Audi Quattro could go through curves like a sportscar. The CRV? I was surprised how well it does. I have driven it in the same conditions as the Audi (around Lake Tahoe) and despite the cruder awd system, it did as well or better than the Audi. Better? Yep, the extra clearance helped. Furthermore, it drives a heck of a lot better than a 4wd in the snow. I have a coworker with a Jeep Wrangler and I bet my CRV could outdrive it on a snowy day. So, when people question the real time, they are always the ones that have never driven one in the snow! Oh, piston slap is usually a sign of bad tolerances. It can go away when the car gets warm, but it doesn't bode well for engine life. I would keep track of oil usuage as well. The CRV doesn't use self adjusting tappets. I had mine adjusted at 40K miles and it quited down the valve noise.
  • drmperaltadrmperalta Member Posts: 58
    When I drove a 4WD over a foot of snow yesterday, the "drivetrain bind" delima is completely out of the picture, no problem whatsoever in making u-turns or cornering.

    With this kind of roads, only a true 4WD can sustain. Those automatic clutches or viscous couplings or traction controls can quickly be overused in this situation and can wear prematurely. These systems are ideal only on INTERMITENT slippery patches but reliability becomes at risk once the going really gets tough.
  • darryl10darryl10 Member Posts: 37
    The reason why you don't feel driveline bind in deep snow is because the outer wheels are losing traction! With a viscuos differential, the fluid inside, not the tire, gets the slippage. It makes a lot more sense, don't you think? When driving in snow, traction is important and when you drive through a curve with 4wd, you lose it. My Audi had lockable front and rear differentials. I could lock up just the front, or lock up both so that it was just like a 4wd. I tried that and it drove like a truck, pretty bad. With it set to normal differential operation, it could drive way better than any 4wd truck. I don't know what kind of wear you are talking about with viscuos differentials. The only thing that can wear is the fluid in them, and that can last 90K miles or longer!!! The plates in them do not see any contact with other plates, they will out last the car. The Awd system in the CRV, like any other viscuous system, will easily outlast the car and give far better performance than a primitive part time 4wd system. I repeat, when I am negotiating a curve in the snow, the last thing I want is a vehicle that requires the outer tires to lose traction, so as not to suffer drivetrain bind! I appreciate traction.Try a CRV or any other awd vehicle. You will see that its performance in the snow will lay to waste any macho looking gas guzzling truck with 4wd.Been there, done it.
  • marlowe2marlowe2 Member Posts: 4
    Say, I was wondering if anyone had complaints about the arm-rests on the CRV? I test-drove one and found that they were far too thin, and uncomfortable. My Corolla's are comparatively fat and wide. I'm concerned that on a long trip, this would be unacceptable. I habitually rest my left elbow when I drive.

    Anyone else have comments on this?

    Thanks in advance!
  • darryl10darryl10 Member Posts: 37
    The passenger needs an arm rest too. That can be fixed. The big problem are the seats. Now, I am sure some will argue that seat comfort is subjective, they like them, etc. But the fact is the seats are terrible! The seat bottom is too short,giving insufficient support for your thighs. The rest of the seats are hard and uncomfortable as well.On long trips, you will be squirming. My wife loves her CRV, but she refuses to travel long distances in it, viewing it as a torture chamber.My brother has a '99 CRV and he feels the same way.Anything longer than 30 minutes is bad. In fact, for commuting, my wife said she rather drive her CRV than my '96 Impala SS because "The Impala SS is too comfortable- the bad seats in the CRV keep me from falling asleep on the way home!". Three different people, same opinion.BTW, I have driven up 14 hours straight in the CRV, so I KNOW what long distance driving is all about!
  • bailiebailie Member Posts: 12
    I also have driven long distances many times and now have over 30,000 miles on my CR. I find the seats to be very supportive and comfortable over long distances. I guess your right it's very subjective.
  • cagney1cagney1 Member Posts: 6
    I'm looking for a 2001 CR- EX-5 speed. I previously owned a civic wagon, which I thought was the greatest car ever built. Currently I own a civic sedan, but my two big dogs don't like the back seat, so...
    1) what kind of mileage are people REALLY getting (why is it so much purer than the previous civic wagon--I used to get 38-40 MPG and my current sedan--34 MPG?)
    2) how much stuff can the CR REALLY carry and tow? (I saw a segment on a news magazine show that said the CR load carrying capacity was poor) and
    3) what about the roll-over safety concern with the vehicle being 8 inches off the ground
    4) a dealer told me the driver couldn't get an armrest with a 5 speed--is this right?
    5) is it worth it to get a dealer installed radio/cassette/DC player with the upgraded speakers or would it be better to go to a car audio place--does anyone have the Honda system? What do you think of the quality?

    This is my first time on one of these message board things, so thanks in advance for your help.
  • beatfarmerbeatfarmer Member Posts: 244
    I average about 25mpg with my '99 ex. I have gotten as poor as 19 driving in the snow and as high as 28 on the highway. My old civic hatch back used to get in the mid 30s but then it weighed less, and was much more aerodynamic.

    As far as hauling stuff, you can trailer 1000 lbs. It will carry five adults and their gear fine. How much do you need to carry? It will easily out haul your Civic.

    Any vehicle can roll over under the right conditions. Keep this in mind. A higher center of gravity increases your chances of rolling under the right conditions. That said, I have heard of few CR-Vs rolling and those that did were hit by other vehicles, which caused them to roll. Even it those cases, the occupants were not seriously injured.

    The dealer doesn't offer the armrest, but you can add it aftermarket.

    Go with an aftermarket audio upgrade. Much more bang for the buck.
  • varmitvarmit Member Posts: 1,125
    Seats and armrests - I've got the 5 speed CR-V and yes, they do not come with a driver's armrest. Honda maintains that it would get in the driver's way. You can purchase one from an aftermarket vendor, but they cost about $100. The passenger side one is cheaper (about $30-40)as it does not require the bracket inside the seat. Personally, I don't recommend either. I installed the passenger's side armrest and found out the hard way why Honda doesn't include one. The arm rest prevents the seatback from folding all the way down to create the "bed" on EX and SE models (it hits the post of the folding console). I've rarely used this as a bed, but I do use it when toting lumber, piping, etc. Most folks won't care, but it bugs me. My wife and I find the driver's seat to be comfy, but she's not fond of the passenger's seat. The lack of adjust in the seat bottom must make a big difference to her. My recommendation to people having trouble with the seats has always been to adjust them so that you are sitting bold upright. That worked for my wife.

    Cagney1 - I'm getting 25+ mpg out of mine. I drive 65% highway and 35% town roads in my daily commute. I've been recording it for over a year now.

    Last time I checked the CR-V was rated for up to 900 or 1,000 lbs. That's pretty good, but the roof rack is limited to 75 lbs, which is kinda shabby. Towing is only 1,000 lbs. I frequently transport two greyhounds in mine. I've also loaded it with 800-1,000 lbs of people and hiking gear, but I don't tow anything. You might like the Subaru Forester or Ford Escape if you'll be towing.

    You should always be concerned about rollovers in any vehicle. It's no joke. However, the danger comes from the fact that a rollover creates a higher risk of being bounced around in, or even ejected from the cabin. Wear your seat belt and you'll significantly reduce the risk that a roll over will be anymore harmful than a similar "upright" accident.
  • varmitvarmit Member Posts: 1,125
    Oops, sorry for the duplicate info. Beatfarmer posted while I was still hunt-n-poking at the keyboard!
  • ccapsuperccapsuper Member Posts: 4
    Hello. I purchased some remote entry transmitters off of ebay. They arrived with programming instructions, but I am not having luck so far. Basically, the instuctions say to sit in the car, turn on the ignition (not to the point of starting engine), hit the lock button on the remote, turn of ignition and then follow this same procedure four times total. On the fourth time it sounds as if all the doors are locking, but then the remote doesn't work. I've also tried another website but couldn't download the program to my outdated computer. So, can someone give me program guidelines over the message board. I really appreciate it.
  • reiner4reiner4 Member Posts: 24
    Not sure if these are the same programming steps you have, but the following is per the Honda Security System Manual I received with my '99 EX... here ya go.....

    Step 1: Disarm security system
    Step 2: Turn the ignition key to the 'ON' (II) position
    Step 3: Press the 'LOCK' or 'UNLOCK' button on the remote control transmitter
    Step 4: Turn the ignition key to the 'OFF' (0,I) position
    Step 5: Turn the ignition key to the 'ON' position
    Step 6: Press the 'LOCK' of 'UNLOCK' button on the remote control transmitter
    Step 7: Turn the ignition to the 'OFF' position
    Step 8: Turn the ignition to the 'ON' position
    Step 9: Press the 'LOCK' or 'UNLOCK' button on the remote control transmitter
    Step 10: Turn the ignition to the 'OFF' position
    Step 11: Turn the ignition to the 'ON' position
    Step 12: Press the 'LOCK' or 'UNLOCK' button on the remote control transmitter.
    a) The power door locks cycle to indicate programming mode. The Status LED illuminates simultaneously for 1 second
    b) To terminate the programming mode at this point , either turn the ignition key to the 'OFF' position or leave the remote's button untouched for over 10 seconds. To program the remote, perform steps 2 - 12
    Step 13: Press the 'LOCK' button of each remote (one at a time) to be stored in memory.
    a) The power door locks cycle to confirm each entry
    b) A button on each remote control transmitter to be programmed must be pressed. Perform the programming step within 10 seconds for each remote or else the programming mode will terminate.

    Notes:
    - Only 4 remotes can be stored in the system's memory
    - For steps 2 - 12, each step must be completed within 5 seconds. For Step 13, within 10 seconds for each remote
    - All remotes to be programmed must be on hand
    - A non-programmed remote will work for this procedure
    - Turn the ignition key to the 'OFF' position to complete the programming procedure.
  • ccapsuperccapsuper Member Posts: 4
    Thanks so much for the programming assistance. I did get my door lock/unlock functions to work using that method. My trunk release does not work and I am open to any suggestions re that. I did fail to mention that I have the LX model, which may have something to do with it. Thanks again.
  • hondaaccessoryhondaaccessory Member Posts: 74
    For the Hatch the button has to be held for at least one second before it will open.

    -Trevor
    honda-accessories.com
  • oreanitaoreanita Member Posts: 1
    When I purchased Honda Security system for 98 CRV I was told by Honda that the original remotes cannot be programmed to operate alarm, only the 2 included in the alarm kit could. Is this true?

    Thanks!
  • cagney1cagney1 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks to Beatfarmer and varmit for the info.

    Other things: How does the car handle? Are folks generally satisfied?

    Is the back door a pain to open with the window and then the door?

    Has anyone towed a small tent camper with a CRV?

    Any other ideas I should consider?? What are folks UNhappy with about the CRV? Thanks a lot!
  • quecoqueco Member Posts: 2
    OK, I'm still looking and here's my latest question....
    Honda CR-V, Subaru Forester or Toyota RAV 4? Please feel free to send answers to my e-mail---queco@aol.com
  • danl1danl1 Member Posts: 5
    Check this UK link. About halfway down the page.

    http://www.j-cars.net/newcar_mar00.htm
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    Front end looks good but what's with the 140 bhp? The current motor already puts out 146.
  • varmitvarmit Member Posts: 1,125
    Cagney1 - Handling is very much like a modern minivan. It's better than most SUVs, but not quite as sharp as your average sedan. Basically, the only time you might have a problem is during emergency situations. Make sure you take advantage of the higher seating/better visibility to avoid those situations.

    The back door is great for my uses. I tote around two large dogs all of the time. I can lift the glass to give them air without allowing them to get out. The fact that it is hinged on the passenger side is problem for people who must load the car while parked at curbside. However, it's also easier for the driver to operate when getting out of the car and walking to the back (I don't have to walk all the way around the car and side step the door when it opens).

    Sorry, I've never towed anything. I do know of someone who tows an ATV frequently. I think they use it for their profession. They're comfortable with towing.

    Also take a look at the Forester, the new RAV4, and the Tribute.

    Queco - I'll email you as comparisons tend to get these forums a bit rowdy.

    Danl1 - Sorry to burst your bubble, but that photo is a standard CR-V with a bunch of aftermarket equipment added to it. If you like the look you can buy most of that stuff.
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