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Dodge Dakota Radiator and Cooling Problems

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Comments

  • cuttdogcuttdog Member Posts: 2
    Help...I have a 06 dodge dakota quad cab it has the 4.7 v-8 magnum.My problem is that it is going through water pumps.I have replaced the water pump twice and this morning I go out and it's leaking again.The pumps are lasting about 3000 miles then they go out.I had everything checked to make sure nothing was warped on the last installation and mechanic said everything checked out ok.If anyone has an Idea of why my truck is eating water pumps please let me know.I'm installing pump 3 this week.Thanks
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    My '05 QC, same engine as yours needed new head gaskets last month, at 18,000 miles! When the dealer was looking at it, he mentioned that there was coolant leaking leaking from the water pump, so it was replaced as part of the head gasket job. I had not noticed any leaking up to that point.

    Where is the leak? From the weep hole at the bottom of the pump, or someplace else?

    If it's leaking from the weep hole, it probably means the bearings and/or seal is gone. The question is why? What coolant are you running? Is your drive belt for the water pump on correctly and not skewed?
  • cuttdogcuttdog Member Posts: 2
  • bridledspiritbridledspirit Member Posts: 1
    Help this Truck has Me Stuck ..
    today i learned a trick on the odometer code and how to get the code
    first last yr there was fluid in my passenger floor board , then no heating or cooling followed that , when i checked my radiator it was almost empty , i filled it up and i have heating and cooling again , so I Had a new radiator put on and it is still loosing flood but not in my floor and not on the road or in my oil , so i had it preassure check and couldnt find any fluid coming out anywhere , my engine light is on and the odometer code is P0045, I call a Dodge dealer mechanic and he says there is no code like that for my truck . imagine that !
    Also Adv.Auto did there dianostic and it says emmission leak , i have had the gas cap to cause the engine light to come on but now it is not that , also when i try to pump gas in my truck it fills up to the nozzle and the pump kicks off.
    Please advise me , Im stuck about this truck .
    Lisa
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    When the tank fills to the point where it kicks the pump out instead of stopping normally, that's usually a tank ventilation problem - in this case, the vent is continuing to release air and thus the tank doesn't think it's full. This is considered an emissions problem.

    The loss of radiator coolant sounds like a heater core or water pump problem where it's primarily leaking while you're actually moving at speed. You probably need to have your truck on a dyno or on a lift where someone can simulate driving while another tech checks for leaks while the engine is well above idle.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • sme192281sme192281 Member Posts: 1
    :P help my sons Dodge Dakota is leaking cant figure out from where he said he notices water by passengers side :cry: : ; : 1999 Dakota
  • tonie234tonie234 Member Posts: 1
    I recently change out the top hoses because there was a crack in middle section that has the radiator cap . Now I am going through a lot of anti freeze and am not seeing it leaking out any where . I thought maybe the problem was that I did not bleed the air out of the hose but am not sure if it will fix the problem . I have to re fill the resevior everytime I travel over 60 miles. Help?
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Even if you have some air in the system, that would not explain the loss of coolant.

    Though, if when you filled it back up there was lots of air in the system, it could take a while for all the air to percolate to the highest point in the system, which would make it look as if the coolant level was dropping.

    How much coolant have you had to add after replacing the hose?
  • bruce_sbruce_s Member Posts: 4
    hey everyone. can anyone tell me why i would have coolant smell/smoke comin out of my middle vents. on a 2000 dodge dakota sport.

    thnx
    bruce
  • bruce_sbruce_s Member Posts: 4
  • pauly33pauly33 Member Posts: 1
    Hello to all, I got a heat issue with my 2000 Dodge Dakota 3.9L. The truck puts out warm heat. I checked the anti-freeze, put in new thermostat and checked the heater core. They all seem to be working fine. The hoses that go to the heater core are warm, where I think they should be hot. The truck is running at operating temperature. Water pump sees like it is working fine and circulating the water.

    Any solution
    Thanks, Pauly
  • trapezecdntrapezecdn Member Posts: 13
    Bruce,

    I have a 2000 sport v6 with over 300,000 km on it. What you describe is a leaking heater core. I have just put in the 3rd one. Not a job for the meek.

    I am actually reading through this to see if anyone else has had experience with 2 heater cores going bad, first one original mopar part went after 250,000 km. second one went after 14 months (12 month warranty on the part) and was an aftermarket copper heater core.

    New one is an aftermarket aluminum heater core. Part is about $40 (US). Labour is 8+ hours.........

    I want to know if anyone else has had any luck in trying to determine possible causes?

    I check for electrolysis (none to speak of, cannot remember actual reading)

    Suggested too much pressure in system. Rad cap is original and has been tested. Rated at 21 psi and still good according to test. local garage says it should only be 18 psi. Cannot confirm this.

    I was also told that it was running cool. (195-200 F) cannot confirm correct op temp either.

    IMO if pressure is too high than temp should be too high too?

    can anyone elaborate or help with trying to prevent a 4th heater core from being installed.....
  • trapezecdntrapezecdn Member Posts: 13
    Lisa,

    Also have a 2000 V6 sport.

    I have a subscription to AllData and also checked an online resource link title

    I could not find the code P0045 either. Not saying it doesn't exist, just cannot find any info about it.

    I do get a code somewhat regularly which is P0455, Large evaporative leak detected. Usually goes away and cannot find the real cause. Sometimes gas cap isn't on correctly or the evap. canister has issues. I believe dusty has dealt with this more thoroughly than I have (or want to)
  • bruce_sbruce_s Member Posts: 4
    thank you for the reply. I just bought a new aluminum one and going to put it in tonight. Ya its not a fun job thats forsure!

    Thanks
    Bruce
  • djreeddjreed Member Posts: 1
    wanting to know if anybody had a fix for your problem cause i have that same problem with my 98 dakota
  • moquelvogmoquelvog Member Posts: 21
    I am having issues with a bad burning smell of radiator fluid, but I cannot locate a leak. I have a feeling that it may be related to my heater core as I can smell it through the vent in my cab but regardless, fluid level is consistantly draining and now the truck is having problems idling (maybe as a cause of this radiator fluid problem.) Cab floor is dry (as I have noticed that a bad core may leak on the cab floor.) Oil has a good consistancy, (no froth.) Anyone have an idea?

    Omen
  • peanutstodaypeanutstoday Member Posts: 1
    Can someone help me please? Does anyone know what would cause the radiator in a Dodge Dakota to hold pressure even when it has been turned off all night long? And also, is the water pump supposed to be turning clockwise or counter- clockwise when it is turning? Thanks to all for your help. - Wayne
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Not sure about what direction the water pump should turn.

    On the radiator pressure - keep in mind that much/all of the pressure increase in the cooling system is due to the coolant heating up when the engine runs. Once the engine is off and cools down, the pressure should pretty much return to what it was before. That's why there are warning notices posted around the radiator to not remove the cap unless the engine is cool.
  • dizzledeezdizzledeez Member Posts: 2
    yes, i have a 2001 dakota with the 4.7 its a quad cab and 2wd, it has an overheating problem. ive replaced the thermostat 2 times, water pump, caps, belts, fan clutch. its weird because it only overheats when going below 40 mph but when you speed up it cools off to normal temp range. im wondering if my electric fan on my radiator is going out or maybe ive blown a head gasket, any ideas how to check the fan? ive already looked for leaks or coolant in my oil and found nothing out of the ordinary. its also been starting rough, its only rough at start then it idles smooth. any ideas?? thanks
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    To check the fan, disconnect the connector to the fan and CAREFULLY apply 12V across the input terminals to the fan using a battery charger set on low (couple of amps max output) or a current limited power supply

    Could also be the fan relay.
  • dizzledeezdizzledeez Member Posts: 2
    ok got tht knocked out, fan and relay were workin like they were designed to do, any other ideas??
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Could be a head gasket. I had to get mine replaced on my 2005 Dakota with the same engine as yours, with only about 20,000 miles on the truck. Though if it were a head gasket, I don't think it would cool down when you were moving.

    I would poke around the fan control stuff a bit more. Maybe let the engine warm up and, with it idling and parked (in your driveway or on the street), try to get the temperature up and see if the fans kick in or not. If not, it could be the module the controls the fans, ECU or PCM??? You will probably need a wiring diagram in order to probe back into the connector coming out of the control module.
  • andy1950andy1950 Member Posts: 1
    The aux fan stays on after I turn the car off. It ran for 30 minutes before I disconnected the battery. Temp outside was only in the mid 80's. Reconnected and it came back on. Disconnected and let the truck sit over night and then reconnected and all seems fine. Any ideas?
  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Member Posts: 28
    ok guys need yall help once again ive got a 94 dodge dakota lately weve been having overheating probs yesterday my son returned from a short trip to town and it seems i have a leak under the truck it is water and when i got under it the leak is coming from above the starter i need to know if this is major as to not drive it it seems to run but now im worried when i accelerate it makes almost like a grinding noise i have heard that before i know it has to do with the water since it leaks from this position could i have a cracked blocked i know my raidiator has been not circulating the water im in the country and i dont want the truck on the side of the road please help :sick:
  • firefighter406firefighter406 Member Posts: 1
    I had an 02 ram with the same motor mine was a bad radiator and I sold truck to a mechanic before replaceing that and all he did was replace the radiator and has a good truck for dirt cheap. Mine only overheated at low rpms you might get the radiator checked out
  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Member Posts: 28
    hey need some help ive been having cooling probs for some time now ive replaced fan clutch,radiator. water outlet and even added a thermostat which i had not prviously had but she is still bubbling when i replaced the water outlet there were rotted shaving on top the block which i cleaned out i had replaced the water pump in the last year im thinking maybe some of these shavings fron the rotted water outlet had made it into my water pump causing some blockage but i need an experts advice i dont want to call a shop just to hear them say bring it in and well check it then dip into this hawaiians almost empty pockets so i come here where i know i can get the help i need ;) thanks
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Head gasket?
  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Member Posts: 28
    hey all i just put a new radiator in my 94 dakota looking at my old one on the bottom there are two nipples that have pin hole in them but what they slide over there are no holes just a steel peg should there be a pin hole on the peg i seem to be leaking tranny fluid from one side on the new radiator and its not from the hose that goes on the side :confuse:
  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Member Posts: 28
    ok i assume it was a head gasket ive tore the engine apart couldnt afford a shop when i got in there was alot of black goo under the intake as well as under the valve covers so ive been cleaning and cleaning a friend di look at the heads and said he didnt see any cracks but in the head gasket set there are some things i havent come across yet little metal pieces with black bands gotta figure what im missing under the valve cover i did remove the push rods and i believe they are called the rocker arms they were encased in goo i cleaned them with gas and noe they can rock do i need to grease them when i put them back i did keep both sides in order in separate boxes ill check back often to get some tips from yall :confuse: :P
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Yes, I would apply some grease to the sliding/rolling surfaces of the rocker arms and lifters. There's some special stuff they make that's intended to be used just for such an application - rebuilding an engine. I don't remember what it's called exactly, but any auto parts store should have it.
  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Member Posts: 28
    thanks srs 49 well ive found out the things ive havent seen are the seals under the springs does anyone know what the tool is called that allows one to remove the springs with out using air compression
  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Member Posts: 28
    hey guys just finished doing head gaskets and cleaning all the gunk from my motor didnt get it sparkle clean but did do the best i could put her back together she s not leaking and sounds smooth but at the connecting point of the exaust manifold and the exaust pipe we are getting smoke theres something burning and i refuse to get her on the road we are talking the drivers side was thinking maybe some of the gunk had dropped into the pipe that was exposed believe me we were flicking gunk every where had covered the timing chain opening but didnt think of covering the pipes only smokes on drivers side i was thinking that maybe the exaust pipe wasnt up all the way before she did occasionally smoke out the tail pipe so maybe we need to get under and re set the pipe again any suggestions :confuse: :cry:
  • dakota321dakota321 Member Posts: 1
    can ac be added to a 88 dakota?
  • otis4toothotis4tooth Member Posts: 3
    Of course my 2000, 4.7 is overheating. It's building up pressure and forcing coolant out the reserve overflow. I did a combustion, CO2 test, and it comes out negative and there appears to be no water in the oil. Does this mean it's not a blown head gasket. If not - what else could it be? Thanks.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I did a combustion, CO2 test,

    Did you mean a compression test? That should detect a cracked head gasket. Bubbles in the coolant sure sounds like a leak between the cylinder and the coolant passages.
  • otis4toothotis4tooth Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for replying, srs 49. I used a combustion gas tester, checks if there's CO2 inside the coolant, it was negative. Have yet to do a compression test. Will probably do that next, but the truck runs great (when not overheating).
  • fatuglyoldfatuglyold Member Posts: 4
    One day while running errands in town, I noticed that it was overheating. By the time I got home it was pegged. So I called around and took it to a repair shop that I knew. After a couple of test they told me that water was not flowing thru the radiator and the overheating blew the head casket. It had exhaust fumes in the radiator water. So it was going to cost $2800 to rebuild the top half of the engine and replace the radiator. They thought that the new style synetic antifreeze was mixed with my old style glycol based antifreeze. Which turns to gelly and gloggs all of the channels in the radiator.
    So a year goes by and it starts overheating again. This time I got it to the shop before the engine over heated and it only cost $800 to replace the radiator the second time. This time they were able to meassure the radiator temperatures with a gun base thermomiter. Cold in the center and hot around the edges, should be the other way around, if the water was flowing properly. These have fine diameter channels that are easily plugged. Electroysis is another theroy.
  • carvermancarverman Member Posts: 101
    Radiators on these are aluminum and a have a tendency to corrode if
    the antifreeze turns acidic. That is why the rad and engine block and the
    heater core should be reverse flushed before adding any new antifreeze.
    If the rad corrodes and the channels get blocked, the engine will overheat
    and other failures can occur, like the water pump seals or even the thermostat.
    2 rads does sound unusual for a 2000. (Mine is a 98 with the
    original rad and no problems with overheating).
  • mkfarnammkfarnam Member Posts: 6
    edited November 2011
    I'm with you Carverman,
    I have a "93" Dodge Dakota LE,4x4, 3.9 eng, 5 spd trans. (Calif, Compliant).
    Iv'e had it appox, 5 yr's now. When purchased it had appox, 920,000 miles on the odometer.
    I've driven from California to Oklahoma pulling a trailer loaded to capacity. Through desert sand storms, mountains, snow/ice storms and red clay.
    I've never had any problems with the cooling system, or for that matter, the only problems I've had at all(knock on wood) were minor and pretty much normal wear.

    NOW...
    My Pastor has an 1988 Dakota that's having a major overheating problem(s).
    My point is that I am very happy to have found this site. Some of the post have already answered some questions and some have given me an idea on what my next step should be.
    I will be posting more questions according.
    Thanks y'all
    MK
  • otis4toothotis4tooth Member Posts: 3
    Yup... blown head gasket. $2,500 at the dealer to fix (gasket kit alone costs almost $400). 70,000 miles on a 2000 Dakota 4.7 4x4: heating core went south, freeze plugs needed replacing, transfer case linkage just fell off, and now the head gasket... think I'm going to buy another Chrysler product?
  • jblaski13emtjblaski13emt Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a pre-owned (1 owner) '04 Dakota SLT Quad Cab 4X4 with 133K mi. It has been a great truck & I thought, living in the mountains in E Tennessee, would be an ideal vehicle for me, being an EMT (& an avid hunter), so I could still get out & make it to work during our occasional bouts of unpredictable inclement weather during the winter & quite honestly just to "play around" a little. However, I am now hesitant to even drive it a mere 35 miles to Chattanooga, as I have had some overheating issues since the weather has turned a bit chilly. The 1st incident was about a month ago during a weekend hiking trip to the Smoky Mountains. After an evening hike, on the way thru the winding roads in the National Park, the engine overheated & the heat would not work properly. I immediately pulled to the side of the road. After searching under the hood & finding nothing apparently wrong, I waited a good 45 mins to allow it to cool down. When i started out again, it began running properly & I had no more problems the rest of the way home. That week, I changed the Tstat & flushed the radiator & had no more issues until this morning (this is the 1st day since my hiking trip that it's been cold enough to use the heater). Now, it is overheating again. It runs at normal temp & everything is ok as long as the revs stay above 1500, but once it drops below, especially during idle (as you would expect, since there is less air moving across the radiator), the temp will rise & it will begin to overheat. Also, after starting & allowing it to run idle for about 15 mins this morning in the driveway, the air coming from the vents was still ice cold. Conventional wisdom would tell you the Tstat is bad, but as I said, I changed it about 3 weeks ago. Mechanics I have asked just sctatch their heads & have no idea what the problem could be. I hope someone out there has some answers, as I really don't want this to turn into bigger & more costly issues like a cracked head gasket & engine rebuild. Thanks for any suggestions you may have!
  • carvermancarverman Member Posts: 101
    Run this by me again?

    You say that the engine is overheating, yet you are feeling cold air out of the vents?
    How is this possible, unless the vent vacumn operated heater door is not functioning or the heater core is not getting hot coolant from the engine coolant pump.
    Something is definitely not right because engine overheating and heater core still blowing cold air means that a blockage is possible somewhere.

    What kind of thermostat did you install ..a 195 degree or a 160?
    Is the thermostat installed correctly? The thermostat can be considered a one way valve when it finally opens when the temperature is reached. Install the thermostat incorrectly and it acts as a restriction to coolant flow and that could bring on those symptoms you are observing.

    Usally thermostats have a stamped "top" on it indicating the installation orientation, to avoid improper installation.

    If you are sure that the thermo is installed correctly, then there could be a restriction of coolant circulating throught the aluminum rad cross tubes.
    If corrosion build up in these, you may not see this corrosison and everything appears normal looking down the rad fill tube, but the rad could actually be partially blocked and that would cause engine overheating, unless the fan is moving enough air through the rad fins.

    so to summarize, possiblilties and things to check..

    1. thermostat (possibly) installed upside down
    2. thermostat not of correct temp range
    3. possible rad corrosion/blockage..in this case, the rad needs to be replaced
    4. Heater core blockage
    5. Heater/A/C vent vacumn operated doors or vacumn servo that operates them is not functioning correctly

    A fast way to check is to place a cardboard in front of the A/C condensor (the one in front of the rad) and cut a 8x8 hole in the middle to allow some air flow while engine is idling, or even running on the road.
    With heater running...if you are still getting cold air..you have some kind of blockage to the heater core, or the vacumn operated door heater vent are not working.

    If you start to feel some warm air coming out of the heat vents, then it's either the rad or the thermostat.
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