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Comments
drive it for awhile and. get the engine ,and the car warmed ,and get the fluid moving and it will work fine. im from the deep north mid-west so i have this problem in the winter. nothing to worry about
So i had my vehicle towed because i had it parked in one of those (no parking between blah times and blah times) for to long. So when i get the car back
i turned on the AC and immedietly it makes this really loud buzzing noise and it
it dosn't do it when i turn it on Vent or Heat or Defrost it dosn't do it only when i turn it on AC. so i checked it and its not the fan dosn't the fan runs fine when its cooling the engine its self s please help me I REFUSE TO TAKE IT TO A DEALER CAUSE THEY WILL RIP ME OFF!
See you there!
1. Doe amyone with the 2.3 L automatic engine notice that the car is often in 5th gear when onyl at 25 mph. Or that it seem inappropriately in a higher gear then i would have chosen?
2. As a result of the above, when cruising there is a low hum from the spinning of the engine. It disappears with acceleration.
3. I am new to movable headlights. Even at the 0 position, the headlights seem not to be shining far enough into the distance???
Thanks for any help
I just got my 2009 mazda 3 two months ago, only 2300miles on it right now. unfortunately i hit a big pothole 1 month ago on highway, pretty big one in area i mean, but not very deep, but still felt big impact on the 2 wheels on passenger side which hit the pothole. i didn't see any damage on the wheels, but 1 week after that i began to notice a groaning type of noise from underneath front end close to passenger side when going over speed bumps in RAINY days. it sounds like rubber being squeezed. i did find the noise only once in the morning(no rain that day), but nothing in sunny days. i'm not sure the reason could be the wetness or coldness, since both rainy days and mornings get lower temperature. my car drives good now, i don't see anything wrong with it unless the noise.
i took the car to dealership for a look but they didn't find anything. the weired thing is they took off some bolts and nuts of the concerned area and tightened them back on, and then the noise was gone. but today the noise comes back again, not that obvious as it was before but loud enough for me to notice.
here's my question: could this be caused by that pothole i hit 1 month ago or just has nothing to do with that hit? if there is something wrong, what could it be? i'm quite worried by this, since i always worry that i had broken something under my car in that bigass pothole.
thanks a lot.
My mazda famila 98 is making a screeching noise when i accelerate it seems to be only doing this in the morning on the way to work. It lasts for about 3-5sec and stops. If anyone could point me in the right direction on a fix for this
Thanks
Not sure what they tweaked or adjusted on yours, but I'd take it back in. Ask them specifically what they do to correct it!
Yowza! That's an expensive pothole.
Yowza! That's an expensive pothole.
I was out-of-pocket for the $800 total repair costs intially. But I filed a claim on my comprehensive insurance covereage and got back all but my $100 dedictible! First time I've never needed or used comprehensive coverage...though I have used the collission coverage on at least four vehicles over the last 19 years. :P
Yes! We like happy endings.
Did the beep happen for the dealer without you in the car? (Just covering the bases)
Do you have an owners manual? There are only a few things that are supposed to cause beeps. If you don't have a manual, I think if you register on line with mazdausa.com you can download an electronic copy for free. Not sure if knowing the things that are supposed to beep would help or not.
But how could the Mazda dealer not know that would be one thing to check?
Also I thought you had said there was no warning light on.
And I dont have a light on my dashboard BUT the Airbag light stays on.
That's normal for any car with disc brakes. The surface corrosion is visible on the rotors but is easily remedied with a couple of applications of the brakes. Bonus: everyone gets to hear you coming!
Noticed that when I close the window (driver or front passenger - haven't tried the back) there is a resounding THUD when the glass reaches the top and seals. It's a louder THUD / sealing noise than i noticed in my sienna when it was new.
is this normal?
Thanks
noticed that when i'm driving 40mph - 55 mph it runs fine, feels good. but when i'm on the highway doing 65 mph it doesnt feel as smooth or tight when (driving straight, no turns/curves). kinda feel it more under my feet.
maybe cause i'm a toyota owner (Sienna and Camry) and am use to a more softer/quieter ride. but not sure if it's due to a problem in this particular vehicle.
ideas?
thanks
Like a number of 2010 Mazda3 owners, I've been hearing the metallic rattle coming from the rear when going over small bumps (especially with the rear seats folded down, radio off, windows up, and rear carpet removed). I took it to the dealer to get diagnosed; they replaced the rear shocks with new ones.
The rear shock replacement didn't get rid of my rattle after all. I took it back to the dealership. They determined that the rattle was coming from the fuel tank. They called up Mazda directly to ask about repair/replacement. Mazda is aware of the problem, and indicated that the splash guard within the fuel tank is loose, and, therefore, rattles over minor bumps (this is very apparent with the rear seats folded, radio off, etc.) The dealer also looked for the issue on their brand new (i.e. unsold) 3s sitting on the lot - they all have this problem. I guess only those of us with sensitive hearing actually notice it....
I asked the technicians if this problem will grow worse, or if it will cause major damage to the tank. They said it wouldn't.
Anyway, since all fuel tanks on all 3s will have this problem, there is no point in replacing the fuel tank with a new one. Repairing it seems pretty difficult since the problem is within the walls of the tank. I've called up Mazda customer service reporting this, but all I got was that "this problem will be looked into".
My own solution to this is to find some lightweight, but sound-absorbing foam and stuff it around the spare tire. It will help with the overall road noise too.
Did you ever figure out what was causing this? I am in the EXACT same scenario that you were. Just wanted to know what ended up happening because I am trying to figure out if this has something to do with them towing my vehicle.
please let me know what you ended up doing with your mazda3.
thank you
Thanks
The clunking problem you have sounds pretty severe. The noise that some Mazda3 owners (both hatch and sedan), such as myself, were describing sounded more like a minor "tick" or metallic tap than a "clunk". One thing you could do, to make the sound more audible, would be to drive with the rear seats folded down (with radio off, windows up, etc.) Better yet, have your friend drive your car while you sit in the back (with the rear seats down) and video record the drive on a phone or something.
If the dealer gives you a hard time about repairs, remind them that the car is well within the warranty period.
As for my "tapping" sound, I had my rear shocks replaced and that stopped the tapping for a while, but it returned. There are a lot of alternative theories as to what the sound is. Check out:
http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-mazda-3-discussion/1902-annoying-rattlin- g-sound-rear-dust-guards.html
Hope this helps.
m3touring
1) Try to find a Mazda Distributor plant vs the dealership. Mazda Distributors will fix and resolve your problems.
2) Take the car as if you were going to have it aligned at a reputable shop. Have them check the noise for you. It might be a busted shock or any component which secures your suspension. Once the shop tells you what it is then go to the Mazda Distributor with the diagnosis and they will fix it without a hassle.
3) As far as shocks K&B are better then what Mazda put's out and believe me Mazda3's go through shocks like it's going out of style. I own a Mazda3 and a Mazda5 I know what I'm taking about. It's up to you, if you want to install K&B shocks they run for $270.00 on ebay (all 4 of them).
4) Mazda3's are prone to loosen the bolt which secures the rear stabilizer bar, when this happens the bar slides to either side and bangs against the chassis. this noise is noticed when going over uneven road patches and it drives you nuts. You'll think something in the trunk is loose like the spare tire but it's the stabilizer bar.
I hope they can fix this problem and a change the way they make cheap park in and out these car.
And for that matter, I didn't buy it because it was Japanese. I wanted a nice-driving, manual transmission, fairly fast, very well equipped, not too expensive, reliable car from anywhere. The $350 motor mount at 62,000 miles is really the only problem the car has ever had. What would you have suggested I buy instead?