Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mazda 3 Rattles, Bumps, and Squeaks

2

Comments

  • pjadepjade Member Posts: 5
    Yeah, they replaced my power steering pump and the noise went away for awhile, but now it's back. Who knows? Yuck!
  • stibiubstibiub Member Posts: 2
    It turned out that some cables from gear shifting system were causing this noise. Never heard it since fixed in service 2 days ago. So, an easy fix in my case. Good look.
  • 4camv4camv Member Posts: 2
    That is just the fluids in the transmission. Like and liquid, when it gets cold the it gets thicker and wont move as quick. after you
    drive it for awhile and. get the engine ,and the car warmed ,and get the fluid moving and it will work fine. im from the deep north mid-west so i have this problem in the winter. nothing to worry about
  • 4camv4camv Member Posts: 2
    04 mazda 3 2.3L 130,000+ miles
    So i had my vehicle towed because i had it parked in one of those (no parking between blah times and blah times) for to long. So when i get the car back
    i turned on the AC and immedietly it makes this really loud buzzing noise and it
    it dosn't do it when i turn it on Vent or Heat or Defrost it dosn't do it only when i turn it on AC. so i checked it and its not the fan dosn't the fan runs fine when its cooling the engine its self s please help me I REFUSE TO TAKE IT TO A DEALER CAUSE THEY WILL RIP ME OFF!
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Tuesday means Mazda chat night! The chat opens at 8:45 pm ET and runs until 10 pm ET. I hope you're able to join us tonight to meet and greet with your fellow CarSpace members!
    See you there!
  • dag1111dag1111 Member Posts: 1
    Just a few questions for felow mazda3 grand touring hatchback owners.

    1. Doe amyone with the 2.3 L automatic engine notice that the car is often in 5th gear when onyl at 25 mph. Or that it seem inappropriately in a higher gear then i would have chosen?

    2. As a result of the above, when cruising there is a low hum from the spinning of the engine. It disappears with acceleration.

    3. I am new to movable headlights. Even at the 0 position, the headlights seem not to be shining far enough into the distance???

    Thanks for any help
  • mazdrvrmazdrvr Member Posts: 112
    Does anyone have this issue? My 2 front seat belt buckles tend to squeak & creak; i'm not sure about the rear ones because I rarely have more than 1 passenger. I can't seem to figure out what exactly is causing this problem; I tried wiggling the buckle when it's connected but I can't make the noise but my slight natural movements from driving then you hear it. Also, the weather temp doesn't affect it either it happens most of the time all year round. Does anyone know if this might be replaceable under warranty?
  • tali3tali3 Member Posts: 4
    This reply is for shazzy and mazdrvr -- Besides alot of break noise and squeaking which I have gotten nowhere with Mazda on {rec'd msg. back from zone rep. for my area stating that "this is just Mazda breaks which are noisy and the rotors get film of rust in rain/snow, etc. - no accountability here} I have been hearing the rattle sound coming from somewhere up front and the same thing happens, when I accelerate but not when I don't...hopefully we can stay in touch about this; I also describe it as a percolating sound...another m3 driver or two have talked about faulty bushings and a leaking engine mount -- wondering.....you can see those entries by reading through forum under 'rattles bumps and squeaks' -- who would have thought that this top rated car would have so many issues that mazda and the dealerships can almost never seem to 'reproduce' or replicate the sound.....
  • tali3tali3 Member Posts: 4
    Shazzy, pls. read my reply to mazdrvr on new postings about the rattling sound we are experiencing....thanks, tali3
  • phetherphether Member Posts: 1
    Hi everybody,
    I just got my 2009 mazda 3 two months ago, only 2300miles on it right now. unfortunately i hit a big pothole 1 month ago on highway, pretty big one in area i mean, but not very deep, but still felt big impact on the 2 wheels on passenger side which hit the pothole. i didn't see any damage on the wheels, but 1 week after that i began to notice a groaning type of noise from underneath front end close to passenger side when going over speed bumps in RAINY days. it sounds like rubber being squeezed. i did find the noise only once in the morning(no rain that day), but nothing in sunny days. i'm not sure the reason could be the wetness or coldness, since both rainy days and mornings get lower temperature. my car drives good now, i don't see anything wrong with it unless the noise.

    i took the car to dealership for a look but they didn't find anything. the weired thing is they took off some bolts and nuts of the concerned area and tightened them back on, and then the noise was gone. but today the noise comes back again, not that obvious as it was before but loud enough for me to notice.

    here's my question: could this be caused by that pothole i hit 1 month ago or just has nothing to do with that hit? if there is something wrong, what could it be? i'm quite worried by this, since i always worry that i had broken something under my car in that bigass pothole.

    thanks a lot.
  • chinny12chinny12 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there,
    My mazda famila 98 is making a screeching noise when i accelerate it seems to be only doing this in the morning on the way to work. It lasts for about 3-5sec and stops. If anyone could point me in the right direction on a fix for this

    Thanks
  • silvermzda3silvermzda3 Member Posts: 17
    check the belt (accessory/fan?/alternator) and tensioner.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Member Posts: 801
    I had a nasty run-in with a deep pothole in my '06 Mazda3 almost two years ago. It bent both of the alloy wheels on that side of the car and caused one of the fluid-filled engine mounts to rupture/explode. My mechanic fixed the engine mount for barely $100, then I learned months later that Mazda had issued a service bulletin admitting that the engine mount was defective...but the pothole didn't help! And the replacement 17" alloys cost about $700 for two!

    Not sure what they tweaked or adjusted on yours, but I'd take it back in. Ask them specifically what they do to correct it!
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I had a nasty run-in with a deep pothole in my '06 Mazda3 almost two years ago ... replacement 17" alloys cost about $700 for two!

    Yowza! That's an expensive pothole.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Member Posts: 801
    I had a nasty run-in with a deep pothole in my '06 Mazda3 almost two years ago ... replacement 17" alloys cost about $700 for two!

    Yowza! That's an expensive pothole.


    I was out-of-pocket for the $800 total repair costs intially. But I filed a claim on my comprehensive insurance covereage and got back all but my $100 dedictible! =) First time I've never needed or used comprehensive coverage...though I have used the collission coverage on at least four vehicles over the last 19 years. :P
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I filed a claim on my comprehensive insurance covereage and got back all but my $100 dedictible!

    Yes! We like happy endings. :)
  • desy1003desy1003 Member Posts: 4
    I just bought a used 2006 Mazda 3. Every time I turn the car on, a beep comes on. Every 2 minutes while i'm driving, stopped, ANYTHING-One single long beep. I don't have any lights turning on the dashboard. I took it to the Mazda dealer and THEY have no clue what it is. Has anyone had this issue? Please help.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Just on first blush, that sounds like something with a low battery that needs to be charged, almost like someone stashed a cell phone under the seat that they forgot.

    Did the beep happen for the dealer without you in the car? (Just covering the bases)
  • desy1003desy1003 Member Posts: 4
    Well, the gas tank light was on when I test drove the car so I figured a trip to the gas station would stop the beep. Not at all. I've gone back to the dealer to let them know about the beep but said he had no idea what it was and unfortunately, I bought the car "As Is". The other 2 issues I have are the ignition light staying after ive removed the car key AND the "Passenger Airbag is Off" light stays on regardless if someone is in the passenger seat. Don't know if it could be related to the airbag light :(
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Buying the car as is does not mean it is acceptable for a Mazda dealer to say they don't know what it is. Are they not actually willing to fix it, even if you would pay for the repair? I'd go to another dealer, if that is an option for you.

    Do you have an owners manual? There are only a few things that are supposed to cause beeps. If you don't have a manual, I think if you register on line with mazdausa.com you can download an electronic copy for free. Not sure if knowing the things that are supposed to beep would help or not.
  • desy1003desy1003 Member Posts: 4
    Well guess what, I just found the Owners Manual and I now know what the issue is.... "If a malfunction is detected in the air bag/front seat belt pretensioner systems and the warning light, a warning beep sound will be heard for about 5 seconds every minute..." Now I will take it to get fixed... Thank you!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Great!

    But how could the Mazda dealer not know that would be one thing to check?

    Also I thought you had said there was no warning light on.
  • desy1003desy1003 Member Posts: 4
    The dealer said "We have no idea what that beep could be" and wanted to charge $150 just to find out and get a "deeper" diagnostic. Unbelievable!

    And I dont have a light on my dashboard BUT the Airbag light stays on.
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    Seems to me it could be illegal for them to sell a car with a defective airbag. At the very least, not good business. Regardless of your purchase "as-is, no warranty", they still must make sure the cars they sell are safe. They wouldn't sell one with a missing seat belt, would they? I would push back hard on this issue.
  • tj6968tj6968 Member Posts: 23
    My 2005 doesn't have much of a squeaking problem with the brakes. Unless it's been sitting for a few days and I'm backing up. Kind of annoying sometimes.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    squeaking problem with the brakes ... sitting for a few days

    That's normal for any car with disc brakes. The surface corrosion is visible on the rotors but is easily remedied with a couple of applications of the brakes. Bonus: everyone gets to hear you coming! ;)
  • RiceBurner3RiceBurner3 Member Posts: 3
    I have a Mazda3 i and I get a rattle when cruising above 50 MPH. If it's windy, the sound increases with the wind gusts. It's definitly outside. I had the glove compartment replaced due to a severe rattle over bumps.
  • 3driver3driver Member Posts: 1
    edited February 2010
    Did you ever figure out what this noise is? I have the same issue. I am starting to think its the timing chain on mine. I used to be able to get up to about 70 before the rattle started and now its earlier, maybe low 60s. My thought was that if the chain is getting looser that the sound will get worse. I dont know where the chain is but mine comes from the drivers side of the car. Yours?
  • lazyklazyk Member Posts: 6
    just bought a 2010 Mazda3 iTouring (auto)

    Noticed that when I close the window (driver or front passenger - haven't tried the back) there is a resounding THUD when the glass reaches the top and seals. It's a louder THUD / sealing noise than i noticed in my sienna when it was new.

    is this normal?
    Thanks
  • lazyklazyk Member Posts: 6
    just bought a 2010 iTouring auto sedan

    noticed that when i'm driving 40mph - 55 mph it runs fine, feels good. but when i'm on the highway doing 65 mph it doesnt feel as smooth or tight when (driving straight, no turns/curves). kinda feel it more under my feet.

    maybe cause i'm a toyota owner (Sienna and Camry) and am use to a more softer/quieter ride. but not sure if it's due to a problem in this particular vehicle.

    ideas?
    thanks
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I experienced a similar problem this month when my 2002 Mazda Protege5 started rattling upon startup and when accelerating. In my case, it turned out to be some loose heat shield clamps, etc. Once they were removed, the noise disappeared.
  • m3touringm3touring Member Posts: 4
    Hi all,

    Like a number of 2010 Mazda3 owners, I've been hearing the metallic rattle coming from the rear when going over small bumps (especially with the rear seats folded down, radio off, windows up, and rear carpet removed). I took it to the dealer to get diagnosed; they replaced the rear shocks with new ones.

    The rear shock replacement didn't get rid of my rattle after all. I took it back to the dealership. They determined that the rattle was coming from the fuel tank. They called up Mazda directly to ask about repair/replacement. Mazda is aware of the problem, and indicated that the splash guard within the fuel tank is loose, and, therefore, rattles over minor bumps (this is very apparent with the rear seats folded, radio off, etc.) The dealer also looked for the issue on their brand new (i.e. unsold) 3s sitting on the lot - they all have this problem. I guess only those of us with sensitive hearing actually notice it....

    I asked the technicians if this problem will grow worse, or if it will cause major damage to the tank. They said it wouldn't.

    Anyway, since all fuel tanks on all 3s will have this problem, there is no point in replacing the fuel tank with a new one. Repairing it seems pretty difficult since the problem is within the walls of the tank. I've called up Mazda customer service reporting this, but all I got was that "this problem will be looked into".

    My own solution to this is to find some lightweight, but sound-absorbing foam and stuff it around the spare tire. It will help with the overall road noise too.
  • RiceBurner3RiceBurner3 Member Posts: 3
    Sorry for the delay getting back to you. I went to the Dealer and I went out with the mechanic to reproduce the noise. Of course it would not make the noise. The noise is similar to a loose washer on a bolt and is on the Passenger side. The guy probly thinks I'm nuts! I need to have him ride w/me above 65Mph
  • saaksaak Member Posts: 9
    Thank you for the information. I, too, had been wondering what the heck was making that soft rattle in the trunk area when driving over rough pavement. I suspected it may be coming from the spare tire, or from the tools and equipment stored around the spare tire. Never would have guessed it was from the fuel tank -- how weird. In any case, this is a minor issue (even for those of us with sensitive hearing). The car is solid, and amazingly rattle-free and squeak-free in all other respects.
  • mel00mel00 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2010 Mazda3 sport hatchback and I had this same rattle. I finally figured it out myself because I didn't want to risk having the dealership dismantle and cause something else. Remove the panel that covers the back middle break light (next to the hatch window). I used masking tape to cover the plastic inserts that snap into the adjacent panel. It not only makes a tighter fit but it totally stopped the squeaking noise. Good luck!
  • melissa10102melissa10102 Member Posts: 1
    Hi

    Did you ever figure out what was causing this? I am in the EXACT same scenario that you were. Just wanted to know what ended up happening because I am trying to figure out if this has something to do with them towing my vehicle.

    please let me know what you ended up doing with your mazda3.

    thank you
  • m3touringm3touring Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info, but I don't have the hatchback m3 (I have the sedan). When you say "middle break light" do you mean the one attached to the rear windshield on the interior? Did you have a squeaking noise or a rattle?

    Thanks
  • m3touringm3touring Member Posts: 4
    I have also noticed a buzzing noise when I first start the A/C and the car is at a standstill. The buzz goes away after the first few seconds. The A/C seems to be working fine. I think it is normal for this car.
  • steven39steven39 Member Posts: 636
  • mazda_pro1mazda_pro1 Member Posts: 4
    Most likely engine mount #3
  • mazda3mistakemazda3mistake Member Posts: 1
    My Mazda3 has just over 700 miles and recently developed a clunking noise in the rear end. Sounds like a loose muffler or gas tank rattling every time I hit the slightest bump. Drove my friend to work the other day and he said it sounded like we were bottoming out with every bump. Took it to the dealership this morning where they test drove it for 2 miles and said they heard nothing. They checked everything underneath and found nothing. I drove it home and the clunking remains. How did I end up with a lemon after reading all the great reviews?
  • m3touringm3touring Member Posts: 4
    Hi mazda3mistake,

    The clunking problem you have sounds pretty severe. The noise that some Mazda3 owners (both hatch and sedan), such as myself, were describing sounded more like a minor "tick" or metallic tap than a "clunk". One thing you could do, to make the sound more audible, would be to drive with the rear seats folded down (with radio off, windows up, etc.) Better yet, have your friend drive your car while you sit in the back (with the rear seats down) and video record the drive on a phone or something.
    If the dealer gives you a hard time about repairs, remind them that the car is well within the warranty period.
    As for my "tapping" sound, I had my rear shocks replaced and that stopped the tapping for a while, but it returned. There are a lot of alternative theories as to what the sound is. Check out:

    http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-mazda-3-discussion/1902-annoying-rattlin- g-sound-rear-dust-guards.html

    Hope this helps.
    m3touring
  • damian1962damian1962 Member Posts: 28
    If you haven't resolved the noise issue yet I have some advice for you;

    1) Try to find a Mazda Distributor plant vs the dealership. Mazda Distributors will fix and resolve your problems.

    2) Take the car as if you were going to have it aligned at a reputable shop. Have them check the noise for you. It might be a busted shock or any component which secures your suspension. Once the shop tells you what it is then go to the Mazda Distributor with the diagnosis and they will fix it without a hassle.

    3) As far as shocks K&B are better then what Mazda put's out and believe me Mazda3's go through shocks like it's going out of style. I own a Mazda3 and a Mazda5 I know what I'm taking about. It's up to you, if you want to install K&B shocks they run for $270.00 on ebay (all 4 of them).

    4) Mazda3's are prone to loosen the bolt which secures the rear stabilizer bar, when this happens the bar slides to either side and bangs against the chassis. this noise is noticed when going over uneven road patches and it drives you nuts. You'll think something in the trunk is loose like the spare tire but it's the stabilizer bar.
  • branstonebranstone Member Posts: 1
    My 2011 Mazdaspeed 3 developed a significant rattle in the right rear over small bumps right around 1000 miles, went to dealer and they could'nt find problem. I was frustrated and didnt want to offer to many free test drives with my new toy. The noise has continued and seemed to be intermittent, but more frequent. I'm at 3400 miles and have become use to my new car with the loose sounding rear suspension. I was thinking it might be a bad shock? I found the issue! The right (passenger side) rear sway bar link bolt was loose! It requires a 17mm wrench and a set of allen wrenches. I tightened it and checked the other attachment nuts. The noise is gone and the car sounds tight. FINALLY. Now Ive googled the know problem and find many threads about this. So why doesnt the dealer know about this simple fix??? I called and let them know.
  • drliccionedrliccione Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2011
    This is identical to my experience with my brand new 2011 Mazda 3s hatchback. After about 1000 miles, the vehicle developed a clunking/clanking noise emanating from the rear when going over bumps, sewer lids, and irregularities in the road. The noise was apparent mainly at speeds of no greater than 35-40mph, for some reason, at higher speeds, the noise didn't occur (or was minimal). When driving with the rear seats folded down, the noise was especially apparent. Thanks to the members who have posted on this site, I was able to learn about the problem, so as to be better prepared in case the dealer wasn't familiar with the issue. When I brought the vehicle into the dealer and explained the noise, and mentioned that there were quite a few posts on Mazda forums regarding this, he acknowledged that it is a known problem with the Mazda 3. I test drove the car with the service adviser, and after hearing the noise, he was confident that the rear sway bar linkage was the culprit. The mechanic then re-secured the rear sway bar links, and this solved the problem. Here is the notation in my work order: “Inspected, adjusted and re-secured rear sway bar links. Road tested; the noise is gone.” The car now drives without that annoying clunking sound over bumps! I was beginning to feel discouraged about my purchase; the Mazda 3 has great reviews regarding performance and handling, but those rave reviews were beginning to fade in the face of this early problem and I began to question the quality of Mazda. I feel much more satisfied with the vehicle now, and it is so much more pleasurable to drive without that noise! :-)) I would like to thank those who have posted about this problem, as it gave me peace of mind, and the knowledge to dispute the dealer in case they denied any issue. However, the dealer was well aware of this relatively common issue, and was cooperative in fixing the vehicle. (Thanks to the mechanic and service adviser at Mazda of Lakewood in Lakewood, CO for handling this issue quickly and correctly). For those who desire to work on vehicles themselves, if repair manuals are consulted, the rear sway bar is also known as the rear stabilizer bar. For instance, the Mazda 3 Haynes Repair Manual refers to it as the rear stabilizer bar, and details all linkages that interface with it. For those with the same problem, don't worry, it seems to be an easy fix if brought into a good dealer or mechanic, or can be fixed at home for those who are mechanically inclined.
  • edin06edin06 Member Posts: 5
    I got the same problem come off fromthe back trunk on my Mazda 3touring. I am going to let my dealer take a look and diagnose tonight.

    I hope they can fix this problem and a change the way they make cheap park in and out these car.
  • rachael_12345rachael_12345 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out what was wrong with your Mazda I'm looking to buy one & I test drove one and it was making a noise coming from the air conditioning after it was completly stoped and I started accelerating. Wondering if it's a major problem of if I could get it fixed?
  • RiceBurner3RiceBurner3 Member Posts: 3
    Unfortunatly no. The noise is a rattle at 55mph and above. Other than that, the car has been great.
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    My 2010 Mazda3s 2.5L 6spd manual makes a scratchy, creaky noise when there are torque changes from the engine or drivetrain suddenly. Such as, when starting from a stop, suddenly letting off the gas, or changing gears. Also very briefly on engine startup, before the engine reaches idle speed. It has stayed the same for many months, and thousands of miles. It is purely a noise, there is no tactile feel noticeable to the driver. It seems to be louder from the driver's seat than the right front seat. I suspect a motor mount is to blame. Any other ideas? Any idea how difficult and expensive to fix? And similar experiences out there with other cars? Any idea how long it can go without completely failing? Forever? I should add, this car has helped do driver ed for two of our children, which I know isn't easy on a manual trans car.
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    Hmm, there's another way you know. The company I work for exported $27 billion worth of US-made products just from the metro area I live in, last year. I don't think Japan would buy them quite so freely if I never bought their stuff in return.

    And for that matter, I didn't buy it because it was Japanese. I wanted a nice-driving, manual transmission, fairly fast, very well equipped, not too expensive, reliable car from anywhere. The $350 motor mount at 62,000 miles is really the only problem the car has ever had. What would you have suggested I buy instead?
Sign In or Register to comment.