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Comments
If you keep a log of the codes and dates/circumstances that may be involved with the code, you might be able to help a mechanic diagnose the problem. The codes themselves are symptoms and do not always point directly to the problem. If the light is on and you take it to a shop, they may very likely be unable to correctly diagnose and repair the problem They will, however, be far more likely to recommend work and throw parts at the problem.
The code reader is not a replacement for repair and maintenance - it is a tool to assist those efforts.
It helped me trouble-shoot a bad ignition coil once.
Thanks guys some great advice here.
Andy in the UK
These codes are merely reporting symptoms of a problem, not the actual problem itself.
For instance, you may get a catalyst operating below an efficiency treshold error, but it could be a bad spark plug that doesn't burn all the fuel, so downstream the catalyst notes the presence of too much oxygen in the exhaust stream.
The code does not mean the catalyst is bad, however.
If we have a code it might help narrow it down at least.
If that fails I'd reset the ECU completely, see if that lasts longer.
Then just trade it while the light is off.
I had that code for 50,000 miles on my Outback. Tailpipe emissions were within spec that whole time, so I fully suspect the sensors were the problem. I was going to replace them in the spring of 2007 but alas, fate had other plans.
The dealer scanned it and reported Codes P2016-2021 Tumble Position Sensor 1&2 which would cost $611 plus tax to fix.
My local mechanic is going to do the repair for $450 plus tax.
Question: What is a tumble position sensor.
Thanks for all the good advice you've given us over the years.
Thanks again,
Bob Woods
P0328 - Knock sensor circuit high input
P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
I'm not familiar with a Knock circuit but know it has something to do with ignition. I also know that the cat converter codes can go on an ignition problem. I'm weary to take this to a mechanic shop (since I haven't found a good one yet) and know they'll just try and get me to buy a whole new cat converter.
Thoughts?
After a smoke test (at another shop) we were told it was the fuel valve solenoid (again), that was replaced along with some canister that was attached to it and falling apart. The light stayed for a bit over 500 miles.
After another smoke test last week (again, different mechanics shop...but same smoke test place), we're told it's the fuel filler tube and valve, again!
I have started smelling gas over the past few months, did not smell it previously.
As someone else mentioned, NYS has an annual safety/emissions test and my mechanic has had to work around my inspections to get the light off so I can drive a certain amount of miles and then hopefully pass the inspection before the light comes on again.
I'd just keeping driving till next spring and inspection time, except for the gas odor which now has me scared.
We also have a Forester and if and when I replace the OB, I will not buy another Subaru, even though we've love them up until this frustrating and expensive experience.
BTW, my mechanic is well-known and respected in our area and I (kind of) have full confidence in him....I have another appt. with him on friday to bring the bugger in. ARGH!
:sick:
Go
After my mechanics fourth attempt(in 2 years) to get the evap code off for good...after 82 miles it's back on again. I am not happy. :mad:
you can reset the check engine light by disconnecting the positive (red) wire from the battery and hold it to the ground for a second. Then reconnect. This will reset you computer. I did this just before inspection, and again before trade-in.
Thanks
Mikemas
Thank you
mikemas
Again please help!!!!!!!! My 2002 Subaru outback sedan check engine light does not turn on when i turn the egnition on. The car run great, i did not feel anything about miss-firing no leakage for oil or any flued under the engine. the only problem that i have is it wont pass smog. Please advise.
Thanks
Mikemas
The 1995 Subaru IS OBD-II compliant.
Obviously the Person at Advance isnt aware that some cars made prior to 1996 (the official year ALL manufactures had to be OBD-II compliant) were OBD-II compliant before that mandatory year.
Seeings how I myself own a 95 Subaru Legacy, and own a OBD-II reader, I can vouch that it indeed is OBD-II compliant.
If you see the person again at Advance (provided this person is still working there) and tell them of this fact.
Giving bad info to customers is a good way to make things way harder than they should be.
Coming from an Autoparts store as a manager for 7 years, these kind of mistakes happen all the time with all the changes made.
Small and large.
P0131
O2 sensor
Circuit Low volts
(Bank 1 Sensor 1)
and
P2097
Post Catalyst
'fuel Trim Bank 1
System too Rich
I read a manual - found the 'upstream' sensor and harness - difficult lil' bugger to reach. What I'm wondering now - is it the sensor ? Or is my cat convertor shot? It only has 21,000 miles on it. Any tips greatly appreciated!
If you've still got te 2005 XT - you need to be very careful about the turbo. I have a 2005 Outback XT with 67K. I've been very good about changing oil and my turbo has now blown out. It's been in the shop for the last few days and I don't have a complete diagnosis yet, but I'm sure that it will be very expensive. Apparently there is a mesh screen in the banjo bolt that's in the turbo clogs and starves the engine of oil and bang - you've got a dead turbo on your hands. Looks like Subaru knows about the problem but hasn't been informing it's owners. Maybe this screen can be cleaned - if so it will save you much hassle. Just wanted you to be aware. I'll probably be posting more about my situation soon. :sick:
Any ideas as to what may be the problem.
If it's not severe, they may be able to machine the heads so they're flat and true again.
This would be the case for any alloy block (as opposed to heavy cast iron).
I posted this in another thread, but I've got an update and wondered what some of you thought.
About 3 weeks ago, my "Check Engine" light came on in my 1997 Subaru Legacy. The day after the light came on, my temperature gauge in the car started slowly climbing, as if the car was overheating after 20 mins of driving. I turned on the heat and the temperature gauge went back to normal. I took it to have the code read, and it threw the P1502 code, which is for a radiator fan function problem. However, the temp. sensor and both the fans are functioning properly. I've checked the fluids, I don't seem to be having any leakage, and I just had the car tested for hydrocarbons in the cooling system and it came back clean.
The car is fine on long drives and on the freeway but starts to overheat when I’m idling or in stop-and-go traffic. I was concerned that this might be a head gasket issue, but all the posts I've read about HGs have the car overheating at higher temps. Any thoughts? A friend suggested a flush, so I'm going to try that next. I'm loathe to take it in and rack up $$$ while someone digs around trying to figure out what the issue is.
Thanks!
Wonder when this ethanol boondoggle will end. Probably not until all our engines are destroyed.