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Comments
It's time for a new car and we're looking for another brand. Some people say it's "just the computer", but as it causes the problem at inspection time annually, it's a major pain in the butt.
I love the cars otherwise and this problem really makes me mad. :mad:
Do you know the Pxxx code that is failing with this Check Engine Light? It's hard to even guess without knowing more.
My first thought when you described the odd brake feeling and the stall that the vacuum booster has a seal failure. The sudden leak into the engine intake can induce a stall. The rest of it? Unknown. Let us know what they say!
Let the dealer take care of it. Ask for a loaner given its brand new.
If your dealer is anything but helpful call 800-SUBARU3 and ask for them to open up a case number to help you out.
Please keep us posted. Best of luck.
Matt
I mention this because I had several different emissions related CELs over a six month period. Very hard to figure out what was going on. Gas mileage was OK though idle was a bit rough. I cleaned the air filter, mass flow sensor, checked purge solenoid, etc., etc. and was ready to change O2 sensors, EGR valve and the upstream catalytic converter. Then I systematically reseated every vacuum line. I have not seen a CEL since (over two months now).
Make sure the cleaner is non-chlorinated. The chlorinated ones will harden the plastic and allow infiltration into the electronics. They sell "MAF cleaner" -- it's just non-chlorinated carb cleaner .
Yes it is. The gas cap is part of the emissions system and if it's loose, it's out of EPA specification.
IMHO, spend $50 on a basic scan tool which can clear the CEL and read them yourself.
It's not Subaru's idea, they have to comply with OBDII.
Clearing the code resets the clock on this event. If it occurred this soon after, then the problem still exists. If the system won't pressurize, there is a leak somewhere. It could be a bad gas cap bleed valve, or the O-ring seal. Or, it could be any one of a dozen other places in the tank, lines, vapor recovery canister, purge valve, etc.
Assuming it is still under warranty, let the dealer handle it. Make an appointment, and ask for a loaner given your situation.
Had to have it towed to the dealer.
When he found out the problem he was furious, naturally. A sensor takes down an entire vehicle? Yep.
Vehicles are so complex, but they should have a fail-safe, and at least continue operating in some sort of limp-home mode.
Under normal conditions, and assuming that the gas cap was the one and only problem, the computer should clear the code out in a few drive cycles. It is checking that the fuel vapor recovery system can properly pressurize and hold the value before it releases the error state.
Have you fixed the problem?
You may find it helpful to pick up a code reader - they are at or under $100 - for keeping track of the problems and resetting the OBD system. Once that light comes on, any other problems that might develop will be masked by the fact that the light is already illuminated. If you keep the light reset, you can better track the frequency of the recurrent problem as well as note when other issues may arise.
As you mentioned, problems considered serious by the system (such as misfires) will result in a blinking light while the issue is persisting.
On my '96 Outback, I had recurrent issues with the P0420 code (catalytic converter under threshold), but employed much the same system as you. It did not affect the state of the tailpipe emissions (so it must have been working), so as long as the light was off upon the visual/readout inspection, I was good to go. I renewed the registration twice (once every two years) while it was in this state.
On older vehicles, the root of the problem often lies within the vacuum system. Combustion byproducts, oil residue, etc., gets into these lines and builds up, causing reduced flow and blockages that can reduce the efficiency of the emissions system or failure of individual components. You can blame the car/manufacturer if you want, but any machine that is used will need maintenance and repair over time.
1. Buy a pre-ODBII model, which meant less strict emissions standards, or....
2. Drill a hole through the Check-Engine light bulb.
By the way, are you aware that this car has several oxygen sensors (I was told five)? In the end, you will have to replace the catalytic converter. On mine I had it replaced every year until the warranty ran out. Then I sold it!
good luck.
What car/year do you have? Unless it is a truly unique specimen, it will have two oxygen sensors.
I own a 2008 OB with 37,000 miles. This morning when I started the car, I realized that my air conditioner was not blowing cold air. A short while later, the Check Engine Light came on which was accompanied by the common, flashing Cruise Control light. This was extremely surprising because the A/C has been working perfectly. This was also extremely annoying since I live in south Texas and in reached 98F today!
I pulled the ECU code and discovered the code was the ominous P0420, which as many of you know, suggests inadequacies with the catalytic converter / O2 sensors. My question is of the "which came first" variety. That is, did the A/C malfunction trigger the CEL, or would the P0420 code cause the A/C to deactivate (like the cruise control does)? This sounds like a stretch, but I have very little desire to pay for A/C repairs.
If the A/C problem is not related to the P0420 code, what should my first troubleshooting task be to address the A/C problem? Please let me know if you need further information. One final note, and I’m not sure if this is of importance, when Hurricane Alex hit Mexico last week, we received intense rain. Accordingly, there was a lot of wet driving; could this possibly trigger malfunctions in the A/C?
Thanks for the help. All the best.