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Comments
I hope your comment is "tongue in cheek", because expecting a car to behave "flawlessly" is not exactly what this entire thread is about!!!!! It's about chronic, expensive, frustrating CEL problems that no matter what the owner does, will not and does not correct the problem!
Subaru management should be ashamed of themselves to be advertising a vehicle which causes so much aggravation to the owners, who in good conscience, put good money down and expect the car, even when it is 10 years old to at least be repairable!!!!!!!!
I do not want to have to pay $100 to buy a friggin' code reader to "keep track of the problems"! After going through two separate smoke tests and making the proper repairs, I expect the problem to be resolved! Aside from the inconvenience of having to work around this issue when it comes time for annual inspection, what if it's a REAL problem and the light is just ignored because one "assumes" it just the vehicle doing it's "Subaru thing"!
Both of our cars (which have always been maintained religiously) have the same emissions code on them. I have 98,000 on the 99 OB and 105,000 on the 98 Forester....in my opinion that is not a lot of miles for a car that is supposed to be able to keep on keepin' on for over 200k miles!
As you might realize, I am frustrated and angry over the time, money and inconvenience this is causing....so I would prefer not to have a "smarta**" remark in reference to the issue. And yes, I am blaming Subaru. Thanks anyhow.
Modern vehicles include highly complex systems which, unfortunately, most mechanics do not fully understand because they are mechanics, not engineers. They rely heavily on the trouble code information stored in the car's computer to diagnose and repair problems as they arise. However, those trouble codes are often times somewhat ambiguous (especially emissions-related codes) and can be caused by multiple issues. Unless the culprit is corrected, the code will return.
Neither of your cars have very many miles and, mechanically, I'm sure they will last for another at-least-as-many-miles-as-you-have-driven-them, if not more. The sensors, wires, and [insert electrical/emissions item here] are subject to age as much as use, so even with moderate use will still begin having problems as they age.
A code reader is just another tool in the box for an owner - it is as basic as a funnel for adding fluids or a torque wrench for tightening lug nuts. And, it eliminates your dependency on a shop to read out codes each time your CEL turns on. Rather than being frustrated, infuriated, etc., each time that happens, just accept that a vehicle is a system that is subject to the same indigestion that you are and take action to mitigate its impact on you. If the light comes on, read the code, log it, and reset the light. Who knows.... it could even help diagnose the problem over time. It is only a "crisis" if the vehicle fails to operate altogether.
One thing is for sure if you throw money at a problem without knowing the cause: Your wallet will be lighter... just ask anyone who donated to the Obama campaign! :P
All of our wallets are a lot lighter after the Bush (read: CHENEY) administrations ...and also a lot of American and Iraqi families are lighter for their lost warriors/civilians. I didn't realize this was a political forum. :-(
Hahahaha.... that is what I am saying: Put your perspective (mental view) into perspective (state of seeing all the relevant information in a meaningful relationship).
It is easy place blame on others for your problems, but they are still your problems. Placing the blame gets you no closer to solving the problems and does not absolve you of ownership. Maybe the day will come when you pull your head out and realize that. Until then, have fun being victimized.
I think a code reader is an excellent investment. It's part of being an informed consumer.
As I mentioned previously, there are 'fixes' listed in other forums that basically dull the sensors sniffer, but it's a lousy way to beat the situation.
Oh, and Wes, I voted for Obama and still think he's a better deal than the previous bum!!!! (ducks and runs for cover.).
Beyond that, the amount you spend really depends on what you want it to be able to do. If you just want to read and reset codes, a $40-75 unit may be just the ticket.
As I tried to explain before, most vehicles produced in the early part of the decade barely made their respective years emissions output. So it shouldn't be hard to understand that as they age and degrade, that there will be 'issues' with continuing to pass. Get sloppy with oil changes,use low grade fuel, dirty air filters, etc., and you get accelerated wear that costs you in fuel economy and tailpipe cleanliness later.
Scanners are pretty cheap. For what you need, about $40-50.
I've had the evap code on my 99 OB LTD SW for a number of years now. After going through two smoke test, we tried starting with the gas cap, then the filler neck and then whatever was next. Each year my mechanic resets the light, I drive for 40-50 miles (hopefully) and get it inspected. This is a pet peeve of mine (there are other messages I've posted regarding this) and even more so now that our 98 Forester S also has the same code lit. Now I just have to decide what to get fixed next...the gas tank, the struts or the timing belt. Otherwise I love my car, but hate that friggin' light! Don't think we'll get another Suby when the time come. :-(
On my Forester it was near the back/left tire, under neath. Filler neck in the same area above it.
Make sure it's not just a loose hose, though.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
I doubt it is related, but events that close together are often not coincidence.
You're using the same viscosity oil, right, not thicker?
And have you checked the exhaust system for a crimp or large dent in the pipe?
I suppose a really bad tank(s) of gas could have partially plugged the cat.
Could a brake be dragging? Check the parking brake also.
Dirty air cleaner?
Shame on the dealer if they knew....
The blinking light is merely a warning light - but blinking does mean you should park it immediately and call a tow truck.
It's hard to say what's wrong, though. If you don't trust that dealer then I would not go back there again to fix it. Good luck.
"Something to do with the 2nd cylinder" does not tell you much, so rather than dump good money after it, I would monitor it for a while with the help of the code reader. Perhaps, with some time, luck, and knowledge, you can pinpoint the issue and resolve it efficiently.
By the way, what exactly is the car? Year, model, transmission, etc?
Want the vehicle fixed so I can get rid of it in favor of something more reliable especially since warranty is about to run out
I was told this is happening to both Outbacks and Forresters -- I have a new 2011 Outback. Started happening on mine at 107 miles.
The problem with your overheating is either head gaskets or water pump....
The older one sure does sound like a HG problem given the air in the system, although checking the water pump is still a good idea.
Subiegirl - an emission systems problem is a rather broad brush description of every component and software that helps the engine run right and clean. Computer, fuel injectors, vapor recovery, airflow measurement, spark plugs - the whole works.