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Mitsubishi Outlander Engine and Performance Problems
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Comments
Thanks a lot!
- Marc
Overall, the car drives, much better.
Do you guys have access to the full TSBs (the whole 12 pages or so)? I’m interested in the version number of the ECM and TCM software in these TSBs.
Yes, throttle hesitation gone, even 4WD Auto lag is gone. Gear selection is now more aggressive, especially when overtaking. The engine doesn't hesitate to give you a lower gear when it senses that you're starting to pedal the gas. And I notice paddle/stick shifting is quicker too, almost instantaneous gear changes now.
What a relief. Now the Outlander is even better than ever.
Just wondering if anyone else has heard this and if it might be the Yokohama tires on the LS.
Mine was built in January and I've never heard a clunk in the front end.
The throttle TSB is great, the more I drive it the more I notice how much better it is now.
Thanks a lot!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
My Mom purchased one last spring. She took it in for the 3K maintenance last week and they found that her transmission was leaking. It was repaired, supposedly, but when she returned to the dealer a week later as informed, the tranny was still leaking.
The dealer made several calls and she was told to leave the vehicle at the dealer. She was given a loaner and told that they would be replacing the tranny. Japan asked that hers be returned to the engineers in Japan to see what was causing the leak.
Anybody have this, or other, tranny-related issues?
I'm very pleased with the results. I told my wife to forget
what I told her to do before if she were to drive my outlander since it behaves normally now .The pedal is much more linear from stop and no "sags" when rolling along.
http://outlander.freeforums.org/viewtopic.php?t=70
My car was built in March, so it applied.
can someone help! anyone esle experience this problem? any fixes? I'm about to call Mitsubishi Canada, hopefully they can offer some ideas.
I notice that I haven't approached the displayed 26 or 27 MPG on HWY since the change (now maybe 23 mpg) but it is colder as you say. The only true MPG is measuring by computing your own consumed gas vs miles. (unlike my wife's Malibu that is very close on the displayed average MPG). As others pointed out the
display starts all over each time (my first few miles may say like 4 mpg, etc until
enough miles are on it.) Mitsubishi should learn from others and change the way it works.
Lately in the cold my mileage is about 21 mpg US (with the throttle lag change made) with combined local and HWY miles. Last fall (warmer and before the change) I think it was close to 23 MPG
Hope this helps. for comparison (don't trust the display and make real measurements)
"Inspect and adjust intake and exhaust valve clearance. [4G6-MIVEC engine and 6G76B3-MIVEC engine (intake side) only]
If valve noise increases, adjust valve clearance.*
*This maintenance is not "scheduled" service, should be done any time."
I have read here and on other sites that Mitsubishi engineers say that it will not be required, but when they include it in their manuals than they will be covered if it does need adjustment. I found this line in the warranty manual Adjustment Period section:
Adjustments required as a result of manufacturing deficiency are covered for 12 months or 12,000 odometer miles, whichever occurs first.
More than likely the dealer will take care of the adjustment with no charge. Will give it a shot.
Could be wrong but I gotta feel the new programming can't be that wasteful of fuel in order to solve a minor transition problem when you consider that most highway is steady state driving.(or putting it another way, could they really be saving that much fuel the old way by making the car less drivable getting up to speed compared to others?) I do know the car is much more drivable now in stop and go driving than before the fix.
Supporting the "cold" effect, my wife's Malibu was steadily exceeding 30 mpg in warmer weather and now she is complaining of seeing 27 or less. (cold or winter fuel mix is the likely cause as no changes have happened with her programming and car is around 25K miles...neither breaking in or old)
i was wondering if you can provide me with an update of the lag fix. what has mitsubishi done for you in this matter? i have not asked for the lag fix but am sort of concerned that they may have done it with out my permission. the reason is i too have experience a very noticable change in the mpg i get . before i was getting anywhere from 520- 750 kms. i will have to make sure to see if i have any lag still.
i was wondering what was the final result int he noise you had in your engine? i too have a clicking sound coming from my engine recently. i am presty sure that it was a lifter or something like that and i was just wondering if you could shed some light on that. i know it is not any relay as some of them think. did you find that your mileage went down as well when the sounds started? i do, almost half as it once was. as well did you get the lag fix and was it worth it?
The mileage does go down in winter I have learned, but not attributed to the noises.
Oh and dont worry too much about specs.. Mitsu recommends 30wt for v6 in Japan.. They know whats best.. But they are also in business and face CAFE fines in NA. See specs for 3.0ltr below (3000 cc)
Goto page 115 and plug text into google translator if you want but it wont be pretty
http://www.mitsubishi-motors.co.jp/outlander/pdf/outlander08_14.pdf
Kia and Hyundai have web sites where registers owners can access to any TSB.
I usually dont hear it when first start the engine cold (most likely because the oil is thicker) but as it warms up I begin to hear it, and always hear it at full operating temp. I doubt very much it is a fuel injector/design (only one noisy injector out of six? and never heard it before until now at 6k miles). Am quite certain it is not any relay clicking (no way an elec relay clicks that fast, full time, and exactly matched to rpm increase/decrease).
Specific to Rancho66, I cant help but to think the dealer is giving you a line, my tapping still exists in temps from 15degrees at night to 45degrees during day (its been a weird past couple of weeks with weather temp changes where I am). What is interesting, is that there has been a few 'once in a while' occurrences where it seems to actually get a bit quieter, but after a few minutes/miles it returns being more noticeable again. I cant explain that one. Could it possibly be a bad hydraulic lifter leaking down but sometimes momentarily stays pumped up- thus no tap for awhile?
Growwise, you seem to usually have some good info/specs etc. Do you know what the valve setup is for this v6 pzev engine? Does it have mechanical/solid lifters or hydraulic? I'm thinking probably not self adjust hydraulic since the book talks about adjusting the intake side. In a few weeks come March I'm thinking of maybe trying 5w30 to see if it helps. Otherwise a dealer visit. Would be nice to know ahead of time what others were told. Thx.
well the dealer did not really give me an answer to what the noise it just the run a round really. i know that when i hear the noise i find that my mileage goes to crap as well. keep a watch on that and report back if you seem to notice the same. i am only getting anywhere from 370-420 kms per tank which has changed from 560-700 kms a tank. one of the technicians suggested it maybe from the intake? not sure really but since i have notice a great loss of mileage i think he maybe right. right now they are asking me to keep track of the mileage so they can report back to Mitsubishi i imagine. keep me informed.
http://tinyurl.com/outie-chip
First off, I can't believe it wouldn't violate factory warranty.
When you read claims like this one wonders if you'll ever need to put gas in your vehicle again!! :P
I would also strongly doubt that a 3rd party ECU would not invalidate warranty coverage. Of course, should you blow your engine or trans up you could swap in the original ECU before attempting to make a warranty claim. But given the potential for internal logs this might not do any good. Go tot he source before you invest: Call the vehicle manufacturer (not the local dealer) and ask. Or RTFM on your warranty.
Also, reality check time: How much can changing the engine affect economy when there's no corresponding change to the trans, especially to things like gear ratios. One or two MPG I could buy, but 10-15 more MPG (representing a better than 50% boost)? I don't think it's possible. And if you add 50 HP and/or 50 lb-ft of torque, what's going to be the impact on the rest of the powertrain. The trans gears might not be able to take the added strain of harsh acceleration (which is the real benefit you're after when replacing the ECU).
Pure snake oil? No. You can get some improvements in performance from the chips. Just don't count on anything drastic and realize there's no such thing as a free lunch.