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Jeep Liberty Engine and Performance Problems
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tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
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Ok I was trying to merge onto beltway\highway traffic when I started to push the gas petal the ESP light started flashing {was not currently on}
On and off {on the dash} and the car lost total power and started to decelerate {rpms stayed the same even know the petal was floored and there was no speed increase}. This lasted about 18sec. Then the rpms shot through the roof and the truck took off and the light stopped flashing. Conditions on the road were warm and dry. This seems to happen every morning now and afternoon and never when I have the service mang. in the car. They ran the computers and found no error codes. Has anyone else had this problem? I need some help because the dealership can't do anything unless the computer leaves an error code and my jeep may leave me in a situation that may leave me dead
update!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ok if you have any info at all that might help me please post asap I am going to meet the head of Jeep's service department tomorrow and any other experiences with this or solutions I can offer him will be a great help. Also, I have found this problem usually happens when the jeep has either sat over night or all day while I work. If you turn the ESP on with the button on the steering column It seems to fix the problem but when you turn it back off it will start again for aprox 15 to 17 sec. I’ve counted
:sick:
This morning on the way to work again when merging into traffic the ESP light started flashing and the same problem. This time it lasted only a few seconds. I am doubting myself slightly because it was misting\ light rain out. the possablity is there that the ESP system was doing what it was supose to.
I will update after this weekend and let the fourm know if it happens again and if it really was the rear wheel sensor.
I will say for a 5 star dealership I am very disapointed ! I have been disrespected, lied to ,and basiclly given the run around.
Last night going to dinner, it happens again. Just tiring to accelerate on the highway and ESP light started flashing and loss of gas peddle and it seemed like the jeep was breaking. This was going on and off for about 5 miles. I did notice that when you turn on the ESP you do get back little control. Well its back to the dealer Monday.
Farout
thanks...sorry to freak out...it was freezing on the Ohio turnpike
We have had so many issues already with this vehicle. Our turbo went bad and stranded us in Virgina. The parts were on back order, so the jeep had already been in the shop for a month. thanks much
I was wondering if you know why your turbo failed? Were you following the turbo cool down procedure according the the owner's manual - such as letting the engine idle for 3 or 4 minutes before shutting it off after pulling off the interstate on a hot day? Was it just defective? Thanks in advance for your response.
I had put in some diesel fuel additive to allow the fuel to work in -20 degree weather and still had engine problems the next day. I purged the line and all worked OK..
I would like to add:
1) Be sure to get an open-end wrench. I had an 11-mm socket and it wasn't long enough... Ooops.
2) Also, a paper cup can be used to hold fuel when pumping out the fuel line. I dumped the fuel into my used oil for disposal...
3) One last "Doh!": I took the oil filler cap off - and engine cover off to get to the fuel separator. DON'T forget (like I did) to put the oil filler cap back on when test-starting the engine. You can get covered with a fine, black oil spray.
I was very lucky that I had some coffee and talked over the most common diesel problems with the mechanic at the Jeep dealership beforehand. He said that air in the fuel line was the #1 problem - and purging the line was relatively easy.
Hope this helps...
When we hear back from DCX about what they intend to do we have studied this inside and out, and we want the problems fixed. There is no reason to have to spend a dine for them to make it up to standard. What is odd iis the engine is not the big problem it's little things related to the rest of the vehicle. Our fuel gage stays at 3/4 full when it won't take another drop. This will make the 5th sending unite they will have had to replace. This problem is not the CRD's fault. Some how it's easy to jumble all the problems up and lump it all together.
We have had a jerkiness in the engine from day one. Is this what others call shudder?
We like the 4 cyc. engine, we think it helps our earth's air. Instead of a HEMI, less not more power makes more sense. I want good fuel mpg and I have had several Neons that got 32+ mpg. We still have a Dodge Neon with 193,800 miles on the original engine, The head gasket was a recall and when they did that ate 90,000+ miles we had the timing belt and water pump replaced at the same time. The Neon still gets 28+ mpg. Which beats the Caliber, Compass, and the Patriot. Where are the brains of these designers> The 3 cars get 23-26 mpg. Heck many of the CRD's do that and better.
As I have said we are a "test Market" that is no longer a test. DCX has moved on the better toys. I hope Chrysler does split off, and I am of the opinion that who ever buys Chrysler, I won't be surprised if this isn't for the better. I just hope it's not a buyer from Korea or China. I think there was a huge mistake to make the Compass. The GC and Commander should be combined into one vehicle. Better to have 4 really outstanding vehicles than 6 that are low quality and are made of cheap plastic like the Caliber, Compass, Patriot, and the insides are really cheap looking, and feel below Korean quality! I think the Liberty has a good interior, except for the Iron Canvass they used for the seats.
Farout
I suppose you could complain about your LSD not fitting into your cupholder (Large Soft Drink
Good Luck
If I could bring my two cents worth of a thought here, I would like you folks to understand that the CRDs we get in the EU are not subject to these problems, at least they are not known to give problems. So where's the difference then? Is it a different group of employees who assemble the 'export' trucks? Could someone from the Toledo plant comment this?
I doubt the fuel quality alone could justify so many issues. Every family here owns at least one diesel vehicle and dealerships no longer have dirty looking workshops. Most people buy their diesel fuel where it's cheapest, not where it's mixed with super high tech additives. The same applies to oil: people buy it in the supermarkets and the engines last forever
NO! It can be endemic to this particular year or model (based on CRD experience) but definitely not normal. If this were a 1960's car we would look at parts like the accelerator pump not squirting enough fuel, the vacuum advance sticking or not moving freely, centrifugal weights in the distributor not moving properly so not advancing the timing. Or even inaccurate timing or improper low speed jets in the carburetor - all things a corner garage could fix.
What I would do is ask to drive another 2007 to see if they all do it. If they won't let you, go to another dealership. Verify for yourself that this is a common problem.
These jeeps (like most everything else, now) are drive-by-wire. There is a rather cheesy position sensor in the gas pedal that may not be throwing a code but not reading properly. There is a throttle plate controller that may have the same issue. There are a number of sensors that might be performing marginally and not throwing a code. Just because there is no code does not mean the tech can't try something. It is a valid diagnostic to change out parts and change them back if there is no improvement.
Lastly, if it is a common problem it won't take very long for a TSB to show up at dealerships that will almost but not quite fix the problem.:)
I need your help. A friend of mine imported a Jeep Liberty in the old country. In order to register the vehicle he also needs the engine#. I called my local dealership, service advisor told me it's located on the right(passenger) side of the engine. He had to look it up, so he couldn't tell me if the engine number would have just numbers or also letters. Also, does it start with the engine model? If anybody knows, please let me know. Any info will be great.
Thanks
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
An old lesson I learned the hard way is that before buying any new car, I take it and several others similarly equipped on test drives and settle on the one that drives the best. You would be surprised at how different identical cars feel on the road re accelerating, shifting etc.
- when a gear is engaged (R, D, 2, 1) the ECU should not allow the engine to go above 3600 rpm
- when you have no warning light, a light pressure on the throttle and the engine goes up to 4000 rpm the ECU sees a NEUTRAL shifter position. When it sees this selection it also releases the clutches in the tranny.
By moving the shifter from Drive into Neutral and then into Drive again I would think the shift sensor moves back into position (because it got loose). This thing is located on the tranny next to the shifter shaft.
Some say you can unplug the fuel line that goes to the engine and turn your ignition on and let the electric fuel pump empty the gas that way.
In the old days I'd get the tube in there and wrap a plastic bag around the opening. Then I'd blow into the pipe. The system would pressurize and I could stick the hose in my can, let the pressure start the siphon and not have to inhale any fumes or gasoline.
That trick these days would probably ruin the vapor recovery system and trigger the check engine light.
i have an 02 jeep liberty with about 87xxx miles on it. When everything went wrong, it all happened within a few days. This is the only vehicle for this household.
A list of current symptoms:
- ETC 3rd gear ratio incorrect
- ETC 4th gear ratio incorrect
- ETC cylinder 4 misfire
- when it was running, the exhaust was a very heavy black cloud( looked like a diesel)
- will not go above 3000 RPM( acting like its hitting a rev limiter , even in gear)
- will not go above 40 MPH(acting like its hitting the governor)
- the dash would make the space shuttle jealous(LIGHTS!)
- only getting about 10 MPG!
- will no longer start(still cranks)
I am at my whits end. I have talked to multiple dealers. New dealers, and garages included. Nobody has any idea why it all happened within a few days. The transmission went into "limp mode" in the time it took to start it. (3rd and 4th gear ratio incorrect) No hints that something was about to die. Drove it to work fine, left work and it revved to the moon once it got past second gear. On the way to the garage the next day, it started to misfire and threw a trouble code. (cylinder 4 misfire) This is about the time the crazy limiters kicked in. On the way home from the garage it lost all power and started pouring black smoke out the exhaust. If i wasn't still paying on it, I wouldn't have it any more. I like the vehicle... just NOT this specific one. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Even an offer for a good drink would make me feel better. Thanks.
thanks
:confuse:
Issue with your Jeep is common to the 3.7 and 4.7 Powertech Jeep / Dodge motors... very often, the camshaft and/or crankshaft position sensors will go bad, resulting in a misfire on various cylinders at various times.
Dealer mechanics very rarely find this problem, because when you test the sensors on a bench, they usually show up good. Long story short, spend the 70 bucks (total) to buy the two sensors and replace them yourself. You'll be a happier man.
The smell is not noticeable until the engine heats up but after just a few minutes, (the smell is beginning to appear sooner and sooner after turning it on and runing it) it smells sort of like burning candles that have been snuffed out. Very distinctive smell.
One person believes it's the aluminum catalytic converter getting too hot and thus emitting the smell.
I've had it for almost a year and this smell has just become noticeable in the past few weeks. Any ideas?
If the smell is more like burnt paper, it could be a problem with your clutch. If it's more like burnt oil, it could be oil leaking onto the hot exhaust manifold. Anyone else have any ideas?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Thanks for any input...