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Comments
If you suspect a vibration in the steering at high speed plus a permanent whistle when you're moving, disconnect your alternator 'field' connector. When mine went, I could hear 'another whistle' or vibration around the engine. When you do this test turn the A/C OFF as well.
In case one or more rectifier diodes short out (inside the alternator), the alternator output will fight 'against the battery' and produce a sound you can interpretate as being a whistle
Both alternator and a/c compressor are driven by the serpentine belt, so is the power steering pump. If your belt does not rotate at a steady pace, the steering assistance will vary as well.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have taken mine back to the dealer twice. The first time they replaced the rear rotors as they had corrosion from sitting on the lot (a fairly common problem according to a friend who is a mechanic). However, the noise returned after a few days. I have been told that the noise is a result of the metal pads and rotors used on the Liberty. However, it seemed odd to me also that the breaks would be squealing while they are not even applied!
Still searching for a solution...
Let me know, you can email me directly if you want.
Good Luck,
kbeast1979
Thansk for the info.
I picked the Jeep up this morning and the dealer said they can not do anything unless there is an error code or something obvious the Chryster would approve for warranty work. They said the vibration was caused by normal exhaust fucntions, I told them I wasnt an idiot and took my car back. They keep pawning it back on to me and will not follow through with the complaint. I have yet to call Chrystler but I had a few questions about the flash updates for you.
Once the flash update is completed, we must drive an additional ~4500 miles for the adaptive stuff to figure itself out? or is it total miles on the vehicle? I am hoping that when we get that many miles on the jeep it will fix itself and not have to worry about working with these people any more.
As I drove my car slower, the weight of the vehicle more noticeably shifted around the rim, creating a pulsating creaking/grinding noise.
The bad news... $200+ a rim. Hope this helps
I have a 05 Liberty-Sme issue- There is a Technical Service bulletin on this-
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/recalltsb.html?type=tsb&styleId=100002263&zip- =
A couple of weeks ago I noticed a growling noise with matching vibration, during acceleration. We checked bearings and differential then changed the fluid in the transfer case because we saw that it was a dark brown color. Growling noise didn't go away. A few days after that, a medium pitched whining noise that sounds like it's coming from the tranny or transfer case area. Few days later, the transmission is slipping.
Any suggestions are very much appreciated.
The noise is odd, not metal on metal, kind of a pulsating whine maybe, it is hard to describe.
If you stop hard you don't hear it as much but if you brake slowly the noise starts.
Any thoughts on what this could be would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
Becky
At first I thought it could be stuck snow but it is not. Since I do not use the other 2 low or 4 wheel drive could this be a factor? Does anyone have any clue what is going on with it?
Thanks for any help!
new subframe from jeep was told to be 475 for the part. they don't sell the bushings I guess. i never fixed it
Hi All - I have a 2012 Liberty and since day 1 have had this sound like i was driving over the "wake-up" bumps on the side of the road. Have had it in 6 or 7 times to 2 different mechanics who say they dont hear anything. Its intermittent, have noticed it more in the cold. Anyone whose ever driven with me have heard it and say they can feel it in their feet if theyre sitting in the front passenger seat. I know I read in the beginning of this forum of the same noise in another Liberty, but that was from like 2007. Any similiar issues lately?
I have a 2006 Liberty with 22,000 miles on it. In 2011 with between 11,000 and 12,000
miles on it both sides of the rear windows failed with the windows falling into the door.
I started reading Edmund's and found out about a semi secret extended warranty. My
wife took it to the dealer where she bought it. She asked the price and was told that it
would cost over $250.00 for one regulator plus labor. She left without the parts or the
labor. She called them later and asked about the extended warranty, and they said they
had not heard of it.
In the mean time my brother-in-law said he could order off the internet. We got new
regulators (Chrysler/Jeep) original equipment for $60.00 each. My nephew a ase
certified mechanic installed them fir $60,00 each. I decided to call Chrysler to see
if they had processed my paper work. They had but it wasn't good news. First he
denied me because I hadn't used jeep parts. I then asked him if he was looking at
my paper work, and he was not. I told him that if he had bothered to look he could
see that they were original Jeep parts. He conceded. His next reason for denying
me was that my Liberty was not a 2006. I told him that it was most assuredly is a
2006. My registration shows 2006 as does my title. He said that according to the vin
number my Jeep was manufactured in 2005. I then told him it was obvious they were
not going to waive the requirements. I knew when I sent off the paperwork that they
would have to bend the rules, because the Jeep warranty is 3years or 36,000 miles,
and the Jeep was 5 years old with 11,000 miles when the failures happened. No
mention was made that it was out of warranty due to the year.
I told the consumer affairs guy that he should tell his CEO and anyone else that he
could find who would listen that I would never buy another Chrysler or Jeep for as
long as I live. I also told him that I would bad mouth their products to anyone who
would listen. From here I go to FACEBOOK.
i
i********
If you want to have it looked at and then come back and ask for some opinions about what was found, you still are leaving a lot of room for error and confusion again for the same reasons, things like noises really have to be observed and investigated first hand to have any measure of accuracy. But at least then you would have at least something tangeble to work from. If you really believe a shop is just out to rip you off, you are at the wrong shop. If you think that all shops and technicians are like that then you need to look closer and learn that they are not.