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Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Problems

2

Comments

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,696
    >Which one would you advise.

    If you're not a do-it-yourselfer as I was tending to hope, I'd buy the new one from GM partsdirect or rockauto.com for $560 and pay them to put it in. Hope that the new engineering has resistors and solder joints improved. The worry I have is that the older Regals had trouble and your car is still having trouble.

    Putting in a used one is probably going to go dim or already be dim.

    Take the old unit you pull out and send it off to be repaired on Ebay if you aren't into soldering yourself. Put it back for a spare if you plan to keep the car.

    I still think your cheapest would be to take the unit out (or pay a garage to do so) and send it off for repair, and then pay the garage to reinstall. I understand you can drive the car without the control unit. Are you in a moderate climate?

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    My advice may not match your options, but since you're asking... I would hate to pay $300 for a part with no warranty and an unknown history. Or pay $560 for that new part + labor. But that's me ;) I'm cheap. ( or I seek cost efficient solutions )

    If I'm understanding your post correctly, you are stating that one option is for you to purchase a unit from gmpartsdirect and take it to the dealer to install.

    Heck if they are willing to install a part you bring to them, I'd pick up one from eBay such as this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270389813817
    which probably has been rebuilt better than factory, and have them install it. The 1 hour labor sounds like like it's unavoidable, no matter where you have it done - at a dealer or locally owned garage. You do have to ship your old unit to the seller with this method, but there is no down-time - just a quick swap. I suspect cold weather will be setting in soon in your neck of the woods.

    I personally would feel this unit would work as well as any unit that your dealer is offering, yet at a reduced cost.

    I can't tell from your posts much about you, young, old, male, female. I think I read somewhere that you live in Maine. I don't know if you feel comfortable enough to buy something from an eBay seller, and if that is an option you would consider. I buy on eBay all the time and would do it in a heartbeat. Just to make it clear, I am not that eBay seller, not related to him or her, do not know him or her :) , and have never bought from him. But he or she has an extremely a high feedback rating and seems to have worked on a lot of these units.

    But if I have to stick to your original question: Which of the two options in your post, I'd probably try to see if that new unit has an improved design and if yes, go that route.

    Otherwise, as Imidazol97 said, you may just be paying to swap a bad used part for a bad used part.

    Hope you find the right solution!
  • well its Thhursday still waiting frombuick dealer to see if he will get the part fromgmpartsdirect.the ser. dept. laid off 1 of their 2 gm ser. write up guys, i like the dealership overall but want resolve this issue so i can go on to the next one.....i not getting any heat out of the rear vents below the arm rest. any thoughts on this one.?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,696
    I like the idea of buying a rebuilt part on Ebay. To me that sounds like the best solution if you're not do it yourself like Bowfan or myself. I didn't know they sold rebuilts rather than rebuilding yours. Of course, it's probably that you pay a core charge and then send your old one after the dealer or shop replaces it.

    That means only one visit to the shop.

    It'd be worth paying the dealer extra to install a known good one to compensate for the lost profit he would have made on the new part at 800 or whatever it was.

    Last I had known, a dealer wouldn't put in anything other than a new GM part of rebuilt or remanufactured by GM. Things may have changed as the profits went away.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • well guys-here is the latest--i can get control unit from GMparts direct--$560.+$118. shipping. Buick would install for me @$80. an hour, s/b only 1/2 hr at most--if tech. is any good.OR myBuick dealer has located a new one that another dealer has had in stock for acouple of years. i can buy for $700.+insulation. i am leaning to this solution--my dealer says GM would gurantee this part for 12 mos./12,000. miles. The outside temp. is good to know up here in maine, often a close call between--snow/ice/or rain. As i said i like my PA as i can tell you guys also like yours. hope this is my biggest expense on this vehicle.-
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    While I agree $118 sounds insanely high for shipping, it also sounds like your site (gmpartsclub) is making up the difference in item price??? Am I missing something? :confuse:

    Dash control unit, park avenue, main control
    97-04 MSRP $1,077.32 Your Price $646.39


    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  • I am having Climate Control issues on my newly purchased 96 BPA and it sounds like you guys may know how to fix it. My control unit appears to function, but we are getting straight hot on one side and straight cold on the other side. Before purchasing, we told the dealer we wanted it fixed. Their mechanic checked the actuator flap/doors (3) and said they are working properly. The passenger side control arm was broken and they said it would cost too much to replace (since the dash had to be pulled off). They said if we just fix that control arm in position to be permanently open, then it would just eliminate separate control of temp for passenger side. We agreed that was acceptable. But it appears it didn't work. We still have hot on one side and cold on the other.
    Any ideas?
    I have seen this question posted a number of times in the BPA Maint. and Repair forum, but no one seemed to have the answer. I hope you can help.
  • just got home from Buick dealer. had unit repl. for $700. new part warr. 12/12,+sales tax and $80. labor.when, when i closely examined invoice at home i see thety o/charged for the unit by $50. they quoted last wk,, $700. and no shipping charges. will be calling them tomorrow.... trip home (95) miles i notice warm to hot air on passenger side cool ondrivers' side i not sure i understand the system (dual climate control) will have toread manual.....but my next issue will be the PA. fuel gauge --when level gets to QT. tank if your accelate fast the needle will pop up to FULL, and slowly go back down has anyone had tjhis issue? I hope i can work out these bugs love the vehicle is still new at 76k!
  • Hi Chrisptown,
    As you will see, my previous post described the exact same problem you are having. The hot on one side and cold on the other doesn't seem to have any explanation related to the controls settings. My guess is that there is some flap that is not working properly, however it seems a number of people have the same issue. I saw this same question posted a number of times on the repair and maintenance forum (with no answers posted), and the eBay link to the place that rebuilds climate controls stated on his eBay listing that he was aware of the same problem (hot on one side/cold on other) and that replacing the climate controls would not fix it. Apparently, lots of us have the trouble and I have yet to find the answer. I think I will rip into the dash myself the first long weekend I have and see if I can find something.

    If you were not having this problem before the CC unit was replaced, I would promptly return to the dealer and explain that they need to fix it. Maybe it is a weak part that gets easily broken or misplaced from removing the entire dash?? I would make it their problem if it is a new problem to your car.

    I hope someone has our answer. I will post again if I find something. Good luck!
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Congrats on getting it repaired Chris.

    My best guess on the bouncing fuel gauge needle is the sender unit is going bad. There were a few years that the senders seem to have been built to insufficent standards. But the problem is not limited to PAs. Our '98 Jeep fuel sender was built substandard too and would make you think you had 1/4 tank when it was bone dry. ( Surprise! :lemon: ) Other models too, not limited to our models. Some vehicles model years have a safety recall on these items. You shouldn't run out of gas in traffic when the gauge says you've got plenty of gas, hence safety recall...

    First, I'd recommend you contact your dealer and ask if there are any recalls that need action on your car. And ask if any have already been performed. I'd guess they should have told you of any needs while you were in the shop, but just to make sure I'd ask.

    If you were a DIY'r, I tell you how you could fix the bad sender for about $30, but its a more difficult repair than the climate control. I'd guess a dealer repair will probably set you back another $500-700. That's just a guess. gmpartsdirect says it's a $225/$117 part, but that's just for the sender (and doesn't include any crazy shipping costs). Sometimes the dealer will want to replace the entire pump & sender assembly as a whole. At MSRP, that would be almost $600 - $800 for parts alone!

    About your passenger side temp control slide: Did you use it before replacing your climate control, and was it working then? Please do check your owner's manual on the use of it :)

    If you don't see any temp difference when you use it, it is possible the dealer didn't reconnect if properly, or a wire broke or came loose. Like Ramzoni said, if it was working before and not working after, I'd say the dealer needs to repair it at no cost.

    Sometimes the mechanics at a dealership are experienced, sometimes they are working as part a school program.

    Let us know what you decide and how it goes! :D
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,696
    I don't recall what year your PA is... but some had trouble with wear on the slider contacts. You might check these three videos
    Repair fuel gauge senderon how to repair the sliders by replacing only the contacts using Aurora parts which were available separately.

    Also in watching the video you see how easy it is to do some repairs--if your PA has the trunk access hole rather than needing to drop the tank to access the fuel gauge sender.

    Some gauge have had a corrosion problem due to sulfur in fuels. A few additives claim to help that problem; Techron by Chevron is one. It's on the shelf at Meijers, Advance Auto, Pepboys, different prices and two different sizes, 12 oz for 12 gallons and 20 ox for 20 gallons. You want the fuel system cleaner rather than the injector cleaner. I would try that.

    Essentially the contacts slide and change the resistance. That resistance is read by the gauge. If there's corrosion on the slide (or wear so contact isn't made) the resistance changes drastically. In your case I would guess that high resistance is read at high float and therefore with poor contact your gauge is getting a reading for full tank. Then when contact is made again, the gauge slowly goes back to the correct reading.

    Having someone else do the repair is probably expensive. I myself would put up with a lot silly gauge reading movement as long as it was reading at times so I was sure I had a certain level of fuel.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,696
    The is most likely an actuator. I don't know the year of your car and which style is HVAC box it uses. The newer ones are all electric actuators with NO vacuum involved and older ones have electric actuators for the blend door for driver and both on base systems and a separate actuator for blend door for passenger on dual control systems.

    On newer ones the actuators are easily accessed (relatively) and replaced. So take off the cover panel, and spend some time upside down moving controls with the key ON and seeing which control moves which actuator. On older ones the links may have come unsnapped or the actuator gears may be broken inside or slipping.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • kabbewkabbew Posts: 2
    Hello, everybody. I have a 1994 Park Avenue, 3800.

    Yesterday, I pulled the battery to use in testing another vehicle. I then reinstalled it back in the 94 Park Avenue. The battery cables are clean and are attached to the battery on the correct terminals. But, ever since that battery reinstallation, for some reason my gauges and the security system seem to be behaving like they are being "fed" reversed-polarity juice. Here's what's happening:

    I can only start the car now by (1) opening the driver's side door (2) using the power lock switch to lock all doors (3) get in the car and close the door (4) wait for the security system to set (5) turn the key. Works every time, but also sets the alarm system off. I then use my door key to turn off the security system off, while the car is running. If I try to start the car in the normal way, the security system is keeping the starter and fuel pump disengaged.

    Also, when I start the car and then shut it off, my temp and oil gauges swing to the right i.e. clockwise and to the high-reading side. And when the car is running, my voltage gauge reads only about 11 volts continuously. It never shows any signs of reacting to the gas pedal or alternator's charging.

    This all seems to point to a simple polarity problem, but I can't figure out what is causing that or how things got this way, since all I did was remove and reinstall the battery correctly. ??? I know this is probably something bone-headedly simple, but any help anyone would be willing to offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • Thanks for the info on fuel gauge.i think i'll see if i can "live" with it. I hope my PA isn't a "problem' car. i have only had it 2 mos. this is 2nd big repair. it only has 76k on it and body and interior are in excellent shape. what else can i expect on a car with 76k on it/ any way you guys have helped a lot i know now what i' am dealing with. o also the climate control seems fine now will know soon hasn;t been real cold here yet. chris.
  • Great job with the pictures and instructions for removing and fixing the digital climate control on my Park Avenue. I'm glad I ran across your response. I'm sure you saved me a lot of time and money. Thanks again for a great job. grampsebj
  • Got the controller out and took it apart; noticed several loose connections. My question....What type of solder to use and what do you use to clean the terminals so solder will adhere. Thanks
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    local hardware store should have little toothbrush sized wirebrushes, plain old 60/40 tin lead solder should do. The kind you might find at a RadioShack if you have one nearby. The very thin wire solder is easiest to work with.

    Like I said tho, I'm not very experienced at soldering. I'll be honest, that I haven't focused a lot on cleaning out the old solder as there wasn't a lot in place. I mainly just heated it well, and added new solder.

    If you do a search for soldering techniques, there are lots of howtos and videos that can teach way better than I could.

    Sorry, I couldn't respond before now - it was an on-call weekend. You probably got it working by now, eh?

    :)
  • my just keep burning fuse and the fuse is for anti theft #2 its a #30 fuse every time i put it in it burns out wat is the problem ? ho can i solve it tere are ni good mechanics where i am . how can i delete the system would the car start if i delete it . where is it located ? help me please.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,696
    You seem certain the cables are attached correctly. Black to negative and red to positive.

    Is there any chance the battery has switched which terminal is positive and negative from its treatment in the other car environment?

    What was done with it at the other vehicle?

    But it's my thinking that a reversed connection on the battery destoys the fusible links to protect the electrical system...

    I suspect you might have removed it with the key ON or reinstalled and reconnected with the ignition key ON? That's the best I can do.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • Some of the LED lights on my heater controls are not working (2003 Park Avenue) - this includes "TEMP" on the dash and the steering wheel and the "AIR FLOW" control on the dash. All the controls are working fine - but the lights are out. Just curious to know if there might be an easy fix - if it's something complicated I'm not going to worry about it. Any comments would be appreciated. Thx.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,696
    The heater controls can be taken apart and carefully have replacement bulbs soldered in.

    The steering wheel buttons require pulling the buttons out with paperclips prying on both sides to wiggle them up. The leads are short and the bulbs can be unsoldered and replaced. They probably have a blue filter over the bulb that you can recycle to the new bulb.

    Radio Shack will have bulbs for both applications. You may not find an exact match but they will be serviceable.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • 1) Do you know how the dash control buttons are removed? and 2) Would there be two bulbs for each control button - upper and lower? - if so I think they both went out at once which would be more than a coincidence.
    3) Would GM carry the bulbs?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,696
    >Would GM carry the bulbs.

    Yes, but not the way we want. They'll sell the bulbs in a new heater control unit!!!

    >how removed...

    Remove the whole control box then, carefully, disassemble to determine what bulbs are where. Those bulbs, in my guess, are behind the switches; the switches probably don't come out by prying on the front like the steering wheel switches.

    Give me some time and I'll see if I have a guide for the HVAC repair...

    I'm sure there are places on the net, and EBAY if you can stand it, that repair yours on quick turn around or send a rebuilt unit for a price. Depends on how much you like fine, detail work inside stuff.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • I have a 1996 Buick Park Avenue. The transmission will slip until the car comes to a halt. Only when I shut the engine off and restart, the transmission would re-engage, run for a few miles, and slip again. Then I have to repeat the whole process. What do you think my problem might be?
  • Hi, my mom is having similar problems and no one in her small town can fix it! Her 2000 Park Avenue starts most of the time but all too often won't and when mechanics look at it, even holding it for two days at a time...can't find the problem. Now she is afraid to drive it. We need to give OUR mechanic something to look for....any ideas?
  • Hello. this is my first forum....not even sure I'm doing it right. My mother is having a problem with her 2000 Park Avenue. When it starts and runs, it runs like a top but sometimes and you never know when or where, it will not start...sometimes after sitting over night, other times after she runs into the grocery store. The Buick dealer in town who sold it to her went out of business. The last mechanic had it for two days and could find no reason for it not to start but this is happening 2-3 times a week now and Mom is afraid to drive it. Can you enlighten our mechanic?
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Hello Jchird,

    question for you, when you say it won't start, do you mean the key is turned, but the engine won't spin or turn over at all? or do you mean the engine is turning over but won't run? Does it ever quit running while driving?

    If it is turning over but not firing, I'd say there is a 99% chance that you've got a failing crankshaft position sensor (abbreviated CKP). Unfortunately as your mom and mechanic have seen, when it (the CKP) fails, it fails in an intermittent fashion. There was apparently a bad batch of these around the year 2000 models.

    Part costs about $26 at Autozone, lots more at the dealer.

    I'd recommend she have the mechanic replace that part and she'll probably be set, if that is the symptom you are describing. :)

    regarding posting a message in this forum, you would probably be better off selecting the 'start a new thread' link or the 'Post New Message' link and put a brief title that describes your problem or question, with the detail in the "Message:" box.

    I don't think the other poster's condition about the Regal, is like yours as it would not restart at all at that time.
  • problem: manual headlight switch will not turn on light unless shifter is out of park. also, when ignition switch is on and engine is running, the lights do not come on at night unless the shifter is out of park. when driving at night, when car is stopped, the lights go off as soon as the shifter is moved to park. solution???
  • "service stablizer system" warning appears randomly, have replaced with 2 new sensors, been at dealer 4 times in last 3 months always with keep the car overnight.
    After each sensor replacement no problem for 10 to 15 days, then back again. The occurences are random, but now showup when starting a cold engine. also occur either driving straight or when making a turn in either direction. Goes away immediately upon hitting "Reset" button or turning engine off. There is no known affect on operating the vehicle when this occurs. Definitely a nuisance.
    Would appreciate hearing about a definte "FIX" have read alot so far about similar problem symptons.
    Thanking you in advance
    MacMan2009
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    Dear Sir:

    I have a 99 Park it had a 11 year birthday today. Two issues the back up lights
    are not working I have checked the fuse box under the glove compartment the fuse
    looks good replaced the back up light switch a the transmission wit a new one and
    replaced the bulbs still no good any ideas? 2 nd issue is the oil pressure read out
    I replaced the switch above the oil filter checked the connection but the read out
    is wacky rise and falls and rings the alarm. Any ideas?

    Art Levine
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    Ya know I love my PA too. Will Buick ever offer a seat as comfortable and a roomy
    as the PA ultra? I mention to a Buick GM that bench seats in the front are great
    for big guys. He said the bench seat went out with the 8 track. If they do not build
    a model like my 99 park I will drive it forever until the wheels fall off. I bought mine
    new 40 K pearl diamond white it still runs great with some minor electrical issues.
    I just press that window with my thumb when it goes dim with the temp.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    This is a ongoing thread I am trying to unravel.

    1999 Buick Park Ultra Back up lights failed both of them. Check the fuse replaced it even though it looked ok. Replaced the bulbs even though they looked ok. Noticed
    a broken Green Wire in the bundle that goes up the trunk C HINGE . sPLICED AND REPAIRED still no lights I will report after inspect the entire harness to the lights.
    Any ideas?
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    My back up lights failed because of a green wire that goes up the trunk J hinge. I used
    Tap splicer so that it will not come apart again so easily. I replaced the fuse,backup
    switch and bulbs good that they are new but that was all unnecessary. So word to
    the wise find the fat green wire in the bundle that is the ground make sure yours is
    not cut or broke!
  • rickoricko Posts: 22
    Driver information center on 97 park avenue is not working, could this be a fuse issue or is it dead and need of replacing.
  • My 2000 Park Avenue is having what sounds like the same problem. It does not even turn over when turning the key. When it resets itself, it starts fine and will do so for days or weeks at a time. The machanic could not find a problem because it would not replicate the issue when at the shop. He thought it may be a nuetral switch in the tranny. Took it to the transmission shop where, of course, it would not fail. I am continuing to drive it until the failure is more consistant. Any ideas?
  • jchirdjchird Posts: 3
    Okay, here's what happened with my mother's 2000 Park Avenue. She was having problems with it intermittently "not starting". Her dealer could not fix it after several tries. After the dealer closed, another mechanic tried fixing it and failed, Then AAA towing recommended Al (at Al's Family Repair in Ocala Florida) took a stab at it. He first diagnosed a weak fuel pump. The fuel pump was replaced and it was okay for a week or so until it happened again. This time he came over to the house, BLESS HIS HEART, and diagnosed it while it was not starting...FINALLY. He "renewed the crank" sensor whatever that means and it has been starting for a couple of months without fail. I hope this helps your mechanic! Let me know!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,696
    In jchird's case the car was cranking, but wouldn't fire.

    In sharmon708's case the car is NOT turning the motor over due to the security system protecting from nonauthorized keys.

    One question, was more than one key in the car near the steering column at the time it wouldn't start? I.E., one key in pocket or hand and the other in the ignition? I've experienced this with our Cobalt. Two key transponders reacting when the key is inserted confuses the computer.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • No other transponder was in the car at the time. I assume you are talking about the keyless remote. The key itself does not have the security component built into the key as many other GM products do. My other car is a Buick Regal and it does have such a key. I do not carry the Regal key on my set. The mechanic was thinking that is was related to the security system and kept asking me if the security light was flashing at the time it would not start. The light comes on just as the other dash lights do but it not flashing. What else should I be considering if it is a security issue? How does it get reset?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,696
    >The key itself does not have the security component built into the key as many other GM products do.

    The key does not have the transponder in the head of the key. You're telling me then it has the black chip in the neck of the key that gets touched by two contacts at the entrance to the lock cylinder when the key is put in all the way. I was wrong in thinking it had the transponders...

    If it had the black chip with metal contacts on both sides that's the VATS system. The tiny wires in the steering column connect to the connector at the base of the steering column. Tilting the wheel breaks the tiny threads of wires in the wires and changes their resistance as more of the threads in each wire break. Also the contacts in the lock cylinder may be dirty or worn back and making bad or poor contact.

    When you turn the key ON the security light should come on for about 5 seconds as the theft deterrent module reads the resistance in the circuit to the key. If that resistance is right, the security light goes off. If not, it should start flashing and flash for three minutes as the injectors and starter are locked out.

    Then after 3 minutes the module is ready to read another key chip.

    There are other problems some people have had with various parts of the car security such as trunk lock sensors on H-bodies.

    If your problem is VATS, the easiest fix is to find the two tiny wires at the bottom of the steering column (they're usually inside a larger plastic housing that looks like a single wire itself) and jump them with a resistor pack the same resistance as the key chip (within 10%). Theft alarm installers have resistors that they get already made to the 15 resistances used by GM. They might be an easy way to have the resistor jumper installed for a moderate price even ifyou don't buy an alarm system from them!!!

    Clean the key contacts with a pencil eraser. Use another key if it works better. Dip the key into alcohol and insert quickly into the lock cylinder to try to clean the contacts that rub the black chip.

    If it is the VATS system like on the leSabre and Bonnevilles, the module can fail in 4 ways. One is if it decides it's getting wrong readings for some reason and it goes into bypass mode where it just lets the car start every time. Mine on my 98 leSabre did that. Occasionally the security light would come on while driving and then go off. Occasionally the key chips didn't read right on the first turn of the key. But instead of locking out 3 minutes every time, it would read the key again on removal and reinsertion and usually start. Eventually the system quit turning on the security light or the bulb burned out. I don't know which. That's 2 years ago.

    Good luck. http://vats.likeabigdog.com/
    Search for VATS on google. (vehicle anti theft system)

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Imidazol97, that's a very nice writeup on the VATS (I think it's also called the PassKey2 system). I had a friend with a '94 BPA that failed several times while the dealer mechanic just kept soldering up and repairing the wires. I'm sure a 2000 would have the PK3 system, which as you said has the transponder device in the rubber head of the key.

    Sharmon708, the key transponder is not the same as the keyless remote.

    Unfortunately I can't offer any real help to you. I had one car a long time ago, that if you drove it for a long drive would not turn the engine over until it had cooled down a while. I always guessed that the starter was getting too hot as I thought it was by the exhaust pipe, but I can't say with authority.

    I've not heard of a NSS failure on these cars, although I've seen it on Jeep Cherokees.

    *** If you suspect this is your problem, one way you could isolate it would be to wait until it fails again and then put the transmission in neutral and try to turn it over. They will start in either neutral or park, by design. On the Cherokee NSSwitches that I've seen, the copper contacts in the area of the 'park' selection would get dirty or gummed up while the neutral was usually still in good shape. You could test them by one of two methods, either attempting to start in neutral, or pulling the relay for the starter and jumper'ing it to bypass the NSS. I'd recommend a try in neutral to keep it simple.

    If your mechanic has looked at it, I would guess he has eliminated the simple stuff like loose battery cables.

    Hope you find it soon, and please write back if you do, so that others may benefit from your experience. :D
  • The key itself for the Park Avenue does not have any visible black chips built into the neck of the key, it is just a plain key. My 2001 Regal does have such a system but is currently having no issues. All of the talk of the security system has started me to try changing to the other spare key which has hardly been used. I was thinking that perhaps the key is getting somewhat worn and my be considered a invalid key. The original auto mechanic originally suspected a problem with the security system.

    When the problem occurs, the security light is not flashing. Messing with the shifter sometimes seems to reset the problem but it is inconsistant. Removing the key and re-inserting has sometimes corrected it also. The car has 84,000 miles on it and this is the most significant problem that I have had in the 60,000 plus miles that I have owned it. So far, the car has not had the problem in a week an a half.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,696
    Your post is titled, "2000 Buick Regal NO START." ??? :confuse: :sick:

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • Hello everyone,
    Here is what happened i was sitting at a stop light and it just died.. So I put it in park and tried to start it but it won't even turn over. So i thought i lost battery connection but the head lights, horn, wipers, radio, and the power seats were still working . So I checked every fuse in the fuse box under the hood. All were ok. So i checked the one located under the back seat and checked most of them and they were good. I bought a used ECM but have not got it programmed yet. I talked to a guy at my work and he said to check to see if i even have power going to the fuse box that is under the hood. My car has a lot of miles which i put a bunch on it my self and have changed a lot of things but its a solid car so it worth it. motor,trany so far . the car its self has 270,000 miles. but i want to get to 300,000 :cry:
    Thanks for your time!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,696
    edited March 2010
    If the battery under the hood has multiple connectors on the red positive terminal, those can have corrosion between the connectors. Turn off the heater control with the key ON, then turn the key OFF and disconnect the negative and then the positives. Clean between them. Cut back the plastic covering if you need to.

    At that mileage I would guess crankshaft position sensor when it died, but when it wouldn't turn over, that indicates more. Because of the double positives, power may still go to part of the car and not others.

    However, because it died and then wouldn't even crank, that might point to the cables.

    You can test with a meter at the small terminal on the solenoid, while someone turns the key ON and CRANK to see if power is getting to the solenoid to active it and the starter.

    Be careful with live positive wires. But The real test would be to get under the car and use a jumper to see if the thing cranks when you apply power directly to the solenoid small terminal that the key actually applies power to if all the parts are working in between. Then if that doesn't work, apply power to the positive terminal on the solenoid, the big one, and expect a spark. If it cranks then, you know it's a connection or the solenoid.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Hi Jon,

    You could have all your accessories work, in spite of the starter not turning the motor over as it (starter) uses a much larger draw of amps. So if you have a loose connection at the battery, that could happen, or if the battery itself has gotten weak it could cause the stall and failure to restart. Alternator working properly?

    Did you try to test the battery strength or jump start? Wiggle the battery cables and make sure they were tight?

    Next would be testing the starter.

    If both battery and starter pass tests and cables were tight, maybe a fusible link, but I'd look at a failure of the intake plenum with subsequent dump of coolant into the engine which can cause it to not turn over. That has happened to my '98.

    But I'd check the simple things first.

    Hope you set a record for high miles! I'm around 280k now, mostly original and shooting for 300k as my next goal too..

    Please let us know how it goes. :)
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,696
    >! I'm around 280k now

    What have you had to do to your car for those miles?

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    driveline parts:
    2 intake plenums (also known as UIM / upper intake manifold , the 2nd was a redesigned unit with a metal ring around the EGR pipe water passages, and replaced the original EGR stovepipe with the included reduced diameter pipe)
    1 starter
    1 radiator
    1 oil pressure sensor ( +1 under warranty)
    1' length of plastic hard pipe which connects fuel pipe to fuel rail
    2 sets of Michelin X or X-Plus radials avg 100k miles each.

    the usual maint stuff:
    brake pads & rotors, rear bearings - hubs, valve cover gaskets, air & fuel filters, battery, shocks

    I say 'mostly orig' as A/C, engine, trans, are original (except the UIM). Keyfob & it's battery orig too.

    I try to swap oil & filter at 3 - 4000 miles
    flushed the trans fluid (but only twice... probably not as often as I should)

    I bought it in 2001 with 99988 miles. High mileage for a 3 year old car, but it had regular maint and a glove box full of receipts to prove it.

    misc repairs:
    resoldered resistors in climate control
    installed pin to stop fuel gauge from flipping needle over
    repaired connector to rear defroster
    removed stuck cassette tape from stereo causing it to display error
    took apart dash (huge job!) to replace turn-signal flasher, only to find it wasn't bad
    replaced 1 driver's window motor
    replaced 1 wiper motor

    Looks like a lot, but I don't think so for the age. IMO. ;)

    Sorry for the novel :)
  • Well i cleaned my connections today. And I confirmed that i do have power to the large positive wire going to the starter. So i took my test light and checked the fuses in the fuse box and determined that i dont have power going to several fuses. like SIR PCM IGN . And a few more . So I took loosed the fuse box and flipped it over and removed the plug on the bottle where it seemed that most of the fuses with out power were and the pins on that plug seemed Fine clean not burnt. So I think I'm going to find a used Fuse box. and might try to split my mine apart and see was going on in there .. Haven't a hard time finding a use fuse box . Anybody got one? Also I tried to find a FUSEABLE LINK on my car and no luck i figured it would be on the wire going to the fuse box but mine doesn't have on there. I'm i looking in the wrong Spot?
    :sick:
  • I jumped the starter and cranked over Perfect. I think the battery and starter are fine. I have done the plenum gaskets before. I had a Air leak and made the car run very Lean because the motor was not drawing the air though the intake.. Thanks Jon :sick:
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