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Chevrolet Blazer Noises and Sounds

13

Comments

  • mattlieblongmattlieblong Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Blazer 2dr 2wd with about 162,000 miles on it. it has made the same noise for the past 30,000 miles or so and I've wondered as well what this could be. Did you determine the source of this problem? Since it is only under positive throttle, and seems to be louder at higher speeds, my thoughts lead me to think it is one of the rear bearings in the transmission or possibly the universal joints of the driveshaft. Transmission gear teeth from what I understand are angled and under stress i would think they would tend to push force down the axis of the shaft within the transmission, that makes sense to me as to why it only makes that noise with throttle and you can hear it stop and start in unison as you apply and stop throttling.

    Please tell me you have found a cheap solution to this issue. This truck is paid for, and i can't see putting a new transmission in it, so a cheap fix would make it worthwhile, otherwise, i'm shopping for a new SUV.
  • red04red04 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 04 4x4 blazer, that has a roaring sound in the front right, it starts slowly and matches drivetran speed, sounds like a prop driven air plane? I have replaced the hub and check all u joints and ball joints. Its has 60K on it, the sound is at random, its stop when i slow to 25mpm. I have put the trans in (n) when it happens and it follows the drivetran speed til 25mpm and quits. Does anyone have a guess?
  • teekoteeko Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 chevy blazer. It has very little heat. i flushed the rad ,heater core and changed the thermostat. still no heat . Any ideas. Also growling kinda noise coming from what appears to be front right corner. It does it in 2wd and 4wd. Noise gets louder as the speed increases. Doesnt change if braking or turning.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    If the heater blower is blowing cold air when the heater is turned on and the engine is warm, it is a bad heater core. Thoroughly warm the engine and feel both heater hoses with your hand. Both hoses should be hot. If only one (heater core inlet) is hot, there is no flow through the heater core and it must be replaced. You may have thought you flushed the heater core thoroughly but engine coolant is still not flowing through it.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    If you have heat on both the feed and return to the core, the problem may be in the damper door under the dash. Search the maintenance and repair forums for heater issues and I believe you will find some info on what to look for.
  • rocco43rocco43 Member Posts: 4
    I have a '00 S-10 blazer 4x2 w/4.3 vortec 4 speed auto trans. When I start it up in the morning it sounds like all the bearings are coming out of the block for about 5 secs. then it fades away in less than a sec. In cold weather it lasts up to 2 min. I am a mechanic of twenty years and never saw anything like it. All fluids have been changed on or before the recommended intervals religiously. If it were a bearing it would stay constant. Oil pressure is a constant @ 45psi (checked with my pressure tester). When under the vehicle the noise sounds like it's coming from behind the engine but infront of the trans. It only happens at start up the first time of the morning. What the heck is it? I am baffled! :confuse:
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    That sounds like loose clearances in the main bearings and if it is more pronounced in the rear area, it is the rear main bearing. The rear main bearing receives the most load of all the main bearings. Usually if a cast iron crank breaks, it will always break at the rear main bearing journal. That is why the rear main bearing is usually wider for better load carrying capacity than the others and has larger main cap bolts with a higher torque requirement. After the engine sits for a period of time or long enough for the residual oil to drain out of the crank and from the looser bearing clearances, you may her bearing knock until oil is pumped up and reaches the bearings from the oil pan. When oil reaches the bearings the oil "floats" the crank and the bearing noise dimnishes. Oil pumps are rated to produce 50 lb. pressure above 800 - 1000 RPM, and when oil pump overcomes the wider bearing clearances then the oil pressure pressure remains high and constant. Higher viscosity oil may reduce the bearing noise but it will also slow the flow to the bearings and the crank will take longer to float in the oil.

    How is the oil pressure at idle (600 RPM) when the engine is at operating temperature? If it is less than 7 lb., that is evidence the bearings have loose clearances. Engine oil pressure before the engine is at operating temperature means nothing.
  • bammonbammon Member Posts: 4
    I doint know if this will give you any insite to your problem

    I have a 97 chev blazer that is making whirring type noise ( seems to be comming from front driverside undercarriage with some vibration felt on driverside floor board ; over the last two years I have relaced both halfshafts ( fron axels) twice, new rotors/brakes, new wheel bearings twice on driverside and once on passager side, new U joints in main rear drive shaft; idler arm, driverside ball joints twice; passenger side balljoints once, new tires twice, new shocks front and back, I have taken it in for tire balance numerous times; with all mechanics advice still makes noise but has gotton louder the last few weeks; now I am preparing to drop front diffential and rebuild with bearing/seal kit; hoever I dont feel to enthusiasic or remotely sure if this is the provlem. This doen't include all of the other non related repairs I have done; WHAT A LEMMON! I paid way too much for it in the first place and then the value has dropped I suppose due to the poor reputation; I have poured $1000-$2000 total into it for repairs and it is still hungry; on the possitive side at least I am getting a lot of excercise. maybe I should just push it off a cliff rather than try and sell it and give someone else the pains and edless pit of repairs and $. Lesson learned; never judge a car by it's cover.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    I have a 1991 S10 Blazer 4WD, 4WAL ABS brakes. I have the "ABS Blues" and it will cost about $800 to replace the EHCU (electro-hydraulic control unit) and bleed the 4-WAL ABS brakes. ABS brakes are the most stupid and useless feature that the federall government has made the automakers put on their cars. However, my Blazer is 18 years and is in such good condition with pefect paint, body, trim and acessories, and it would be a shame to junk it because of the brake problems. Even though the resale or trade-in value is next to nothing. The S-series vehicles are delecate, high maintenance and expensive to work on.

    The whine or noise from the floor is probably coming from the 4WD transfer case. The transmission fluid in the transfer case should be checked and replaced at 10,000 mile intervals, and sooner depending on the use of the 4WD . NEVER use 4WD on sand or pavement and always use the same size tires with equal tire pressure on front and back. Good traction on pavement and uneven traction in sand will put a higher load on the unit and invite premature failure, sometimes within a few miles! The area around the transfer case selector switch should be inspected for leaks. Even if there is no evidence of leaks , the vacuum line assembly should be disconnected from the selctor switch and inspected for transmission fluid inside the vacuum lines. In August 2004, GM had a part number change on defective 4WD 3-port selector switches used on the transfer case with a green inspection mark. . The OEM switch should be replaced with the new 3-port switch which is GM part number 89059420 with a blue inspection mark . This switch fits the transfer cases on 1991 - 2005 Chevrolet S-series vehicles with 4WD. The vacuum lines are 1.) engine vacuum 2.) vent port and 3.) actuator (servo) vacuum line. The acutuator (servo) is located under the battery and it too can be defective. First determine if vacuum is getting to the servo before unit is replaced.

    NOTE: When the fluid in the transfer case if changed, open the filler plug on the transfer case FIRST then open the drain plug and drain the transmission fluid. That is in case the fill plug is seized and cannot be opened. That will be rare but it is possible. Refill the transfer case with red Dextron III until transmission fluid it is at the filler plug level.The 1995-2005 S-series transfer cases should use green GM synthetic transmission fluid.
  • rocco43rocco43 Member Posts: 4
    I have a feeling that's exactly what it is. Now it won't diminish at all. I think it will be time for a complete rebuild because I also now here a ticking noise in the top end too. It's a shame because it only has 125k on it and it wasn't driven hard at all since I bought it 3 yrs ago with only 54k. I just hope I didn't wipe out the crank too. I have and 89 motor I can steal the crank out of if I did. :sick:
  • teekoteeko Member Posts: 3
    How do you replace a heater core in a 2000 chevy blazer
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    You have to pull the dash apart. Major job. Do a search in the maintenance and repair on replacing heater core and you will find directions.
  • teekoteeko Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for youre info much appreciated. And yes dash is apart now ,wow big job alright.
  • rocco43rocco43 Member Posts: 4
    I know when I had to replace the one in my wifes blazer, it wasn't hard but just very time consuming. And don't forget about the bolt down in the heater box under the hood. It's a pain to get to, but the interior box can't be removed without it removed first. Good ol' black RTV works good to seal the piece back in that you have to cut out. :)
  • rocco43rocco43 Member Posts: 4
    The oil pressure in my first text is at normal operating temp. The oil pressure cold is around 50-55 lbs. Then it will fall to 45 lbs as the engine warms up. But now that the weather has turned colder, it has gotten worse. I'm just going to rebuild the complete bottom end, new crank, rods and mains, and a new oil pump. The motor has to come out to do anything to the bottom end. :sick:
  • 1motoman1motoman Member Posts: 1
    my 95 blazer is making a loud humming sound when i drive it seems to be coming from the drivers side front possibly hub bearing/ how can i find out if it is this? it is very loud on freeway when i turn to the right it stops if it is the hub bearing is it an easy fix?
  • dabbydo1952dabbydo1952 Member Posts: 9
    I have the same problem. The whirring started out lightly. Now it is very loud. I also feel some vibration under my feet (driver's side). I have had brakes replaced twice, serpenine belt, just replaced fuel filter for $900, new ball joints (my wheel actually fell off as I pulled in my sister's driveway), and a new alternator. I am a single woman and don't want to be stranded alongside a highway. Do you have any ideas what this is? Kat
  • bammonbammon Member Posts: 4
    Hi,
    Sounds like it might be your halfshaft/driveshaft since it stops making noise when turning steering wheel; not a easy fix but neither is the hub bearing replacement; this repair could cost $600 or more if you take in in; but if you replace it on your own ( if you have the right tools) it would cost you $150-$300 for a new driveshaft depending on where you purchase it.

    Thanks
  • bammonbammon Member Posts: 4
    The whirring sounds like it would be your front drive axle/halfshaft, but that is what I thought was wrong with mine until:
    On my 98 blazer I found out after replacing front drive axles, wheel bearings, 4x4 front differentail, ball joints, drive line universal joints etc. that it was still making noise and vibrating just as bad as before; I finally decided to remove the rear axles and found out the axle/wheel bearing had worn a deep grove in the rear axles; I purchased new rear axle shafts and bearings and installed them ( somewhat difficult process) and finally the problem was resolved; The vibration and noise was gone; I don't know if this is the problem with your blazer. I hope this helps

    Thanks
    Ammon
  • dabbydo1952dabbydo1952 Member Posts: 9
    Is it expensive? I have put so much money in this thing. I feel like shooting it and putting it out of its misery....and mine, too!

    Kat
  • dabbydo1952dabbydo1952 Member Posts: 9
    That's what mine is doing, too. It is getting progressively louder and louder.....very loud right now. I just spent $900 on a fuel filter, and I can't afford any more.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    On my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4 SUV the front wheel drive transfer case is directly under the driver's feet. I never use the 4x4 but I sometimes hear a noise coming from that area. When yoiu change your oil, it may be wise to at least inspect the fluid level or completely change the transmission fluid (Dextron III) in the 4x4 transfer case. That is a simple job. The fill and drain plug are large (over 1 inch) metric plugs. The largest expense is purchasing a metric socket that size or maybe I can borrow one. The 4x4 transfer case is chain driven and chains become noisy without adequate lube. However, I don't think the chain is moving if the 4x4 is not engaged but I don't know for sure.

    The fluid in the 4x4 transfer case on my 1991 S10 Blazer has never been changed and I see no sign of any leaks so I suppose the transmission fluid in the transfer case is probably just worn out. I changed the filter and fluid in my transmission recently and it was still bright red, meaning, it was good. I think the previous owner (my daughter) had the transmission fluid changed sometime since she bought the car in 1991. My 1991 S10 Blazer is in amazingly mint condition for a 18 yerar old car and even has the original spare and tire cover hanging on the tail gate.
  • dabbydo1952dabbydo1952 Member Posts: 9
    Well, I took my car to the mechanic yesterday. He told me my differential was going out.....$1,500! I just put $900 in it for a new fuel pump. I told him I would give him $5.00 to drive it off a cliff. I also asked if he thought someone would steal it if I left the keys in it! No takers. A thief doesn't even want it. He told me it would either go out and coast to the side of the road or could possibly lock up the rear wheels and put me into a skid. Oh, goodie! He also told me I need new tires. So, I am not very happy!
  • foxyroxy3869foxyroxy3869 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 chevy blazer and my lights keeps going off intermittently. During that time I can hear noise coming from my glove box. I changed all 3 relay switches in the glove box and to no avail, my lights still keep going off. I spoke with several people who told me it could possible be my turn signal arm or a poor connection. Need some assistance.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    The Gov-Loc rear differentials used in the S10 Blazers and other GM intermediates are good units if they are not abused. They are a unique locking - unlocking type differential and they work well for their intended use. The Gov-loc differential will sense relative wheel speed and when one rear wheel is spinning 100 RPM faster that the other, the Gov-Loc will lock up and engage both axles. The when the vehicle reaches 20 MPH, the Gov-loc will disengage the axles and function as a conventional differential. Spinning one rear wheel in gravel or mud and if the other wheel hits solid pavement the subsequent impact shock to the differential when it locks the axles will instantly destroy a Gov-Loc. .Richmond makes a No-Slip differential that costs $400 and is a direct replacment for the Eaton Gov-Loc differential used in GM intermediates. Te Richmond No-Slip differential will stand mose any kind of abuse with an engine with up to 275 to 300 HP. The Richmond No-Slip differential is a locking type differential that may be troublesome for some people to drive on the street but it is far more durable than a Gov-Loc. The Eaton Gov-Loc replaced the clutch type limited slip differentials that GM first introduced in 1957.. The old clutch type limited-slip differentials required whale oil as a friction modifier additive. Whale oil is not available anymore to use as a friction modifier because of the international restrictions against harvesting whales for their oil.

    Look on your glove compartment door for RPO code G80. If that code is on the RPO decal on the glove compartment door, you have the troublesome Gov-Loc differential.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Get a second opinion. While it is possible for a high mileage, or heavy towing, to kill the bearings in the diff, that $1500 estimate is high. A complete rebuilt or used unit is what he is quoting, and if you can find a good drivetrain shop they should be able to re-use something out of the original. The typical failure I have seen is the pinion gear bearing, and many times that is caused by having the pinion shaft seal replaced and the bearing being over torqued on reassembly. Very, VERY common on Chevy differentials. You really need to make sure you are dealing with someone who understands that the Chevy has very specific torque specs, and to exceed them will kill the differential.
  • dabbydo1952dabbydo1952 Member Posts: 9
    I will definitely do that. I have had people tell me that $1500 is very high for this type of repair. Thanks for the advice!
  • dabbydo1952dabbydo1952 Member Posts: 9
    Well, well, well, Ladies and Gentlemen....the mystery is solved. My problem was a wheel bearing. The first mechanic (?) said my differential was going out and that it would cost $1500. The second mechanic wanted $50 to diagnose my problem but that I had a wheel bearing going out. I finally found a FABULOUS mechanic on Angie's List. He diagnosed the noise as a wheel bearing immediately. He fixed it that afternoon for less than $450. I would have been SICK to have spent $1500 on a rear differential and then found out it was a wheel bearing later. So, I am back on the road! Kat
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Thanks for the followup! It's always nice to save money on repairs. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • c5nutc5nut Member Posts: 11
    You got hosed on your fuel pump too. Just changed mine (pretty easy) with a pump made in indiana for $330.
  • dabbydo1952dabbydo1952 Member Posts: 9
    I keep telling everyone that I am trying to build a new car a piece at a time. So many things have gone wrong in a year-and-a-half. I'm afraid of what is next. I have replaced the brakes twice, alternator, serpentine belt, fuel pump, wheel bearing, and ball joints; and my water pump has supposedly been going out for a year. I have lived in my current apartment for one year and have had my car broken in to three times (the last time breaking out the window). So, I am pretty exhausted at this point.

    What should a new water pump cost, should it finally go out?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Less than $50. It is basically the same water pump as used on a Chevy V8.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    A 2000 Chevrolet Blazer with a serpentine belt must use a reverse flow (ccw) , long style water pump.
    AC Delco 252-711 (new)
    GM-88926225
    $50

    Rebuilt reverse flow water pumps vary from $35 - $50.

    Note:
    Chevrolet engines with a V-belt use a standard flow (cw) water pump.
  • dabbydo1952dabbydo1952 Member Posts: 9
    A year ago, a mechanic gave me a price of $250. The most recent estimate was approximatley $450. I am a single woman, so I can't do it myself (not that a woman is not perfectly capable. It's just that "I" am not). Maybe when my boyfriend comes home I can have him fix it.
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Member Posts: 30
    The hinge pin bushings were shot.
  • kevinmnkevinmn Member Posts: 1
    While driving fast but more noticable when slow, going straight with AC on or off and in 2 or 4 wheel drive there is a knocking that I can feel on my left foot. It becomes more distinct the longer I've been driving. Any ideas? I just had new tires put on as well as a new oxygen sensor but I think I remember it before I had those repairs made. I crawled underneath and looked around but don't see anything obvious or even many functioning parts around the suspect area. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.
  • py072888py072888 Member Posts: 4
    Own a 2000 chevy blazer. Makes a loud almost revving noise when its cold. noise will stop when you come to a stop and does not come back until the car is shut off. also when you stop it makes a clunking noise. any ideas. very similar to #107. almost the exact same thing. please help.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Very common for the fan clutch on a 4.3L to be very loud when first started and for the first few minutes. Not a concern unless the noise continues, indicating the fan clutch has locked up. This will kill your gas mileage, and also cause the engine to run cool.
  • py072888py072888 Member Posts: 4
    No not like a fan clutch noise. Best way to describe is like the card in the bike tire. Only happens when the engine is cold. not even cool. I let the car sit for 3 hours and tried to make it happen and it wouldnt because it was still warm. Sounds like it is in the passenger side of the blazer. And the noise stops if you come to a stop sign and does not come back until next day or hours later. Im stumpped.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Possibly then a problem in the blower motor area? Try changing the fan speed and see if the noise changes. ABS is on the other side, so not likely the ABS module cycling.
  • py072888py072888 Member Posts: 4
    Ok i was reading your earlier posts and read something about a throttle cable. I noticed that my outer cable keeps popping off. This is my grandmothers car. When i say outer cable i mean one on passenger side of throttle control. i put it back on and pushed the clip in and it does not fall off anymore. I did this last night and she told me that when she started the car to go to work today it did not make the noise. i do not see how that clip not being on the cable could affect anything. This noise is pretty loud. sounds like an airplane propeller under the hood. i am going to rule out the blower as it does it whether the blower is on or off. I also realized that when i said it sounds like it is coming from passenger side i was sitting in the drivers seat so it could be middle of engine over. I am pretty handy with cars and have heard all kinds of noises but this one has me. car does not seem to run diffrently. but i want to fix it before it gets worse.

    And now for another problem.
    Grandfather has a 94 GMC Sonoma. 4.3L vortec. We rebuilt the motor about a year and a half ago. it had spun a bearing and we bought it that way. Replaced the crank and had rods cut and new bearings all around. New knock sensor. Lately he noticed that at low RPM's the motor shakes pretty rough. plug on knock sensor was broke so i replaced it. same problem. this motor has a balance shaft in it and i fear it is something to do with that. any ideas are greatly appreciated. if more info is needed please let me know. once highway speed is reached shake goes away as long as you are on throttle. if pedal is in only a little shake is at its worst. i believe timing is good. 12 degrees one way or the other i dont remember. will check it again tomorrow. is my timing off? what should it be? truck still has plenty of power. blows smoke and smells real rich. please help.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Sounds more like an ignition or fuel problem than a balance shaft. Possibly a leaking fuel regulator or bad fuel spider assembly, hence the rough operation and smoking.
  • larisherelarishere Member Posts: 1
    I hear what sounds like a metallic rattling that seems to be coming from under the driver's side of my 2000 blazer. While on ramps I've shaken every possible thing I can find to grab hold of and can't find anything loose. A muffler shop told me that the inside of the catalytic converter is probably worn out and causing the noise. Could this be so and can it just be cut out or would running without the catalytic converter cause the engine to not run correctly.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Running without the converter could cause issues as this vehicle has a "closed loop" system for controlling the fuel injection. If the converter has come apart inside, it will sound something like marbles inside a coffee can.

    A good source for used parts, converters included, is an eBay store named "s10warehouse".

    I am in no way affiliated with these guys, other than having bought a LOT of used parts from them with very, very good service.
  • blazeoneblazeone Member Posts: 1
    just bought a new blazer and about 2 weeks ago it started squeaking sounded like the belt was loose so i replaced the tension pulley and the idler pulley started it up and no sound 1 day later the noise started again now it does it when i start it up but after a few minutes it stops when im sitting but start back up when i hit the gas and the more i push the gas it gets louder and dies down when i slowing down. any help would be great thank you
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Not dissing Gates, but their belt for this application is not good. When you can get it to squeal, try spraying a little silicone or belt dressing on the itensioner pully and see if the noise stops, even briefly. If it does, find a parts house that sells the Goodyear Gatorback belt and install it. See if the noise goes away. I fought this on a '99 model for two months before learning about this issue. Has something to do with the way the Gates cannot shed dirt/debris from the grooves in the belt, but the Goodyear has crosshatching in the grooves to help clear them.

    Haven't heard a peep in two years since changing the belt.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    Try a Goodyear Gatorback serpentine belt. I have a Gatorback on my 1991 S10 Blazer SUV and the belt and pulleys are quiet. I started to replace it with a AC Delco serpentine belt because i like my car to be ALL GM but after I looked at the wear indicator on the tensioner pulley bracket, I left the Gatorback on the engine. The good thing about the automatic tensioner is the wear indicator and you do not have to worry about over tightening or leaving the serpentine belt too loose. The serpentine belt will lose 10% of it's original installation tension within 1,000 miles. If you want a quick fix for a squeeking belt, spray some Armor All on the belt and let it dry about an hour before starting the engine. I tried that on one of my 1963 Pontiacs with a single V-belt and it was a permanent fix. I could have fixed the V-belt squeal by tightening the alternator over the limit and risk damage to to the bearing in the alternator or water pump.

    My Blazer has about 145,000 miles on it and the thermostatic controlled fan clutch which I think should be replaced even though it is not squeeking. That is because when the ambient temperature is over 95 degrees, the engine runs at 195 degrees but the engine temperature climbs to 200+ degrees when idling with the A/C on. I am not too concerned about the engine temperature but I feel like a new thremo-controlled fan clutch would keep the running and the idle temperature at 195 degrees.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I've heard that the cause of some Gates belts making noise is the paint they use to put their logo on the belt. It's raised just enough to cause a noise, at least until the paint wears off.

    The paint noise may be more rhythmic than what Blazeone is hearing though. The test, like you say, is to see if the noise goes away with some belt dressing.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I had to change the fan clutch on my '02 a couple of weeks ago. Same thing, at idle in high temps (it has been 100+ here for a couple of weeks) the temp was climbing up to around 225 or so. Now it doesn't make it to the 210 mark.

    The other clue was when starting out, no fan roar, which these little beasties are famous for.
  • c5nutc5nut Member Posts: 11
    I know this is an old thread but I have my truck in pieces and I'm getting desparate. I have a 2000 ZR2 and I replaced the outer seal on the front differential recently. The next day I went to check all my bolts etc to make sure all was tight (drove perfect) and found that I had torn the outer boot at some point. So I just got done taking the shaft back out and I have cut the old boot off. Now I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the outer CV joint apart to install the new boot. Tried banging the hell out of it to no avail. Any help would be appreciated!
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