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Lincoln Town Car Heating / Cooling
kidlightning
Member Posts: 2
in Lincoln
Hi everyboby,
Recently bought a low mileage black 87 Town Car. On my first few drives I noticed that the heat didn't work. All the heater hoses get hot (both sides of the heater control valve) etc and the heater core is warm to the touch. Based on information by an old Ford mechanic I dropped the glove box and found strange looking device. The body is a cylinder made of blue plastic with two mounting wings, and two vacuum hoses leadig to it, one small one in black vinyl and one larger one in clear vinyl. A cable from the HVAC panel connects to it. According to the mechanic the function of this device is to measure the temperature of the interior air and pass the information onto the automatic climatic control system. He says that the device is bad and providing bad information to the system the air is already warm enough which is why I am getting no heat. When I bypased the device the heat worked fine...I just couldn't turn it off.
So obviously I want to replace this device. My problem is when I call the Lincoln dealer I have no idea what to call the part and there is no part number stamped anywhere on the device, just a build date. Anyone know what to call this thing or better yet a part number?
Thanks in advance,
Matt
Recently bought a low mileage black 87 Town Car. On my first few drives I noticed that the heat didn't work. All the heater hoses get hot (both sides of the heater control valve) etc and the heater core is warm to the touch. Based on information by an old Ford mechanic I dropped the glove box and found strange looking device. The body is a cylinder made of blue plastic with two mounting wings, and two vacuum hoses leadig to it, one small one in black vinyl and one larger one in clear vinyl. A cable from the HVAC panel connects to it. According to the mechanic the function of this device is to measure the temperature of the interior air and pass the information onto the automatic climatic control system. He says that the device is bad and providing bad information to the system the air is already warm enough which is why I am getting no heat. When I bypased the device the heat worked fine...I just couldn't turn it off.
So obviously I want to replace this device. My problem is when I call the Lincoln dealer I have no idea what to call the part and there is no part number stamped anywhere on the device, just a build date. Anyone know what to call this thing or better yet a part number?
Thanks in advance,
Matt
0
Comments
Go to the Lincoln dealer. At the parts counter, they have a parts list for the heater components which they can pull-up on the computer. They can select each part on the list and pull-up the pictorial for the part. Describe your part to them, face-to-face, and they should be able to find the part number and get the part for you.
I really need that heater to work this winter but I want to repair it myself.
Please let me know.
Steve
steve.lavergne@hotmail.com
Have you encountered this problem before. Would you be able to point me to the solution?
I've also read about diagnostic procedures for this unit. Is there a guide I can access with these procedures to help me determine the health of the control head before investing in the replacement?
Thanks - DIYERR
The fix was very easy. I think there were eight screws that hold the dash pad to the car (Two are in the vents at the windshield). Some required a stubby screw driver. The part itself was a matter of two vacuum lines and a couple bolts. I think it took twenty minutes start to finish to do the job.
As for the other issue of heat only working on "high" I am not sure I understand your problem but here's what I do know based on working on other Fords I've owned. There's a part called the "Blower motor resistor" usually mounted on the AC box under the hood. Trace the wires from the heater controls to the BMR. When the fan is set to "high" current goes to one tab at full strength. When you turn down the fan the blower motor resistor cuts current to lower fan speed. If your heat works only with the fan on high, I'd bet tap water to a case of Corona it's your blower motor resistor. This is normally about a twenty dollar part and takes ten minutes to replace if you are even borderline handy. You should be able to get one at a decent parts house (Carquest, NAPA etc. as opposed to Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc) or you should be able to track one down on line by using "Blower motor resistor 1988 Lincoln Town Car"
Good luck.
M
I read another post on a different site where the person replaced the control head and it didn't fix the problem, so if there are diagnostics available that will help me determine whether the control head is really bad or not, that would help.
Where did you get a control head for $30? The initial price I was given was over $600. The car is a '96 Lincoln Town Car.
With this additional info, does any further advice come to mind?
TIA - DIYERR
Thanks in advance.
tekdoc1
Is the problem with the blower motor due to the resistor that controlls the blower motor speeds. If so, where is this resistor located?
I appreciate your help.
Sincere thanks,
cwss4joe
Ed
ed
MANUAL operation enables you to be the sensor and operates accordingly.
Is it an easy process?
Thanks
I have a 2006 TC Signature Limited with 20,000 miles that is doing EXACTLY the same thing. I dropped the glove box and felt the passenger-side blend door actuator while it was making the noise and confirmed that it is the source. I even went as far as removing the actuator. The blend door itself moves smoothly, but the actuator motor moves in a very jerky manner. I'm not sure if this is normal or not.
Did you get any help from your dealer? I plan to mention it to my dealer, but am wondering if they did anything for you or if it is considered a "normal" noise.
If the dealer won't do anything, I was thinking about putting a piece of foam over the actuator to try and quiet it down.
Just a thought.
Ed
Tom/Ridehog
Today my father arrived home and stated that this morning as he was leaving for work his fan stopped blowing while putting his car into reverse. It has not came back on for the rest of the day. When i turn a/c on you can hear vents open but no matter what setting the fan is on it will not blow. What to do, What to do?? Its 90+ right now and really don't want my father driving around with no a/c. PLEASE HELP!!
I want to avoid having to take the car to an a/c shop because, I just spent alot of $ ( the full resale value of the car ) for, towing, electrical diagnosis and the replacing of a major electrical part ( the engine was turning over fine but there was no response from the engine for starting ) and a full tune up.
I found out afterwards that there are no adjustments on this car with a full tune-up. I could have easily done the tune-up myself.
I pressed in the freon loading pin ( it looks like a tire air valve ) and there was no release of freon, so it seems that all the freon is gone from a leak in the a/c system. I found a replacement for the r-12. It's called freeze12.
They say it's 100% environmentally safe and it's approved by the EPA as totally legit and legal and it cost alot less than r-12. They also say it works very well.
What's the likely a/c area where the freon leaked out? With no freon in the a/c system the compressor won't turn on and that's what set off the low pressure switch, right?
For $50 with shipping, you can get their Freeze12 ( r-12 replacement ) a/c refill kit. It has 36 oz of freeze12, 2 oz of oil, 2 oz of leak sealant, conversion filler valve and hose, and pressure guage. The Town Car takes 40 oz.
They also have a major leak sealant for $20 more. I am hoping that the regular sealant will be enough.
They also say that you can simply add the freeze12 to the system with no other preparations because freeze12 is so compatible with r-12.
Where is the low pressure switch so I can reset it or does the low pressure switch reset itself when I fill the system with freon.
Will the 2 oz of sealer do the trick so the freon stays in the a/c system?
Should I add more than 2 oz of sealer or 2oz of oil for a better running a/c? You can buy extra 2 oz cans of oil or sealer for $5 each.
Do you recommend the freeze12 major leak sealer which sounds very good and it seals leaks in metal too. Could the compressor be one of the areas where the freon leaked out?
I was referring to the regular ( not the a/c ) vent air temperature being cooler by adding water to the very low coolant reservoir.
Would just 1 or 2, 12 oz cans of freon without the oil or sealer give enough system pressure just to test that the compressor does work or goes on? You can buy the freeze 12 in single 12 oz cans for around $5 each.
What are the different ways that the compressor won't work; clutch, electrical short, a leak, etc?
I have read here and there about adjusting the air gap if the clutch is not kicking in.
I'll be checking those a/c tools out.
I'll figure out where the low pressure switch is. Would one 12oz can of freon be enough to do the color leak test for a few minutes at a time? How much time in between the 3 minute testing to be safe for the compressor? I will be checking out the areas you mentioned for the leaks. Would those areas still show signs of oil or would they be dried out by now? This is the best ? What % of any leak or the ones that you mentioned, be sealed by regular leak sealer? Does the sealer work? Would it be ok to add 2 cans of regular leak sealer to the system and would it do a better job than adding only 1 can of sealer. To what degree can a/c leaks be sealed with a/c leak sealer additives. Have you used them, have they ever worked? Is there a kind that works the best? They say that Freeze12 is very compatible with r-12 so you don't have to do alot of the prep that's needed when changing from r-12 to r-144. I haven't gotten the Freeze12 kit yet. I'm sure there is some prep, but maybe not much, other than to add the 1 can of 12oz freon, 1 can of 2oz sealer, 1 can of 2oz oil, and more freon to 40 oz. system pressure, as it says on there website. They also sell an optional heavy leak sealer to add into the system, that they say will seal larger leaks in rubber, plastic, metal, etc. But it's expensive. What is the vacuum pump needed for? Is that used to increase the system to working pressure using air instead of freon for leak testing, and for evacuating the system? You have helped alot so far on this subject.