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Comments
These kits are a heck of a lot cheaper than compressor replacement.
Even when all works well, do not expect "ice-cold air". When all works well, the car interior should be comfortable on fan speed 1 (recirculating mode- MAX) in 100-degree heat after a ten-minute cool down at higher fan speeds.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/c-low-pressure-cut-off-switch-827635/
The good news is that the cost this time out was $10.00 cheaper this year than last ($19.81 vs $29.54), and, I bought it from the same outlet (AutoZone - it was in stock). The part is a Santech MT1191 "A/C Clutch Cycling Switch". It took me all of two minutes to replace it once I opened the hood (See my replacement instructions from last year).
Once again, my advice to anyone with PT A/C problems is to always, always perform the LPS paperclip test BEFORE spending any money on expensive repairs. Just make sure the system is charged with Freon first.
Good luck. Please post your success stories on this forum.
If I change the rad cooling fan, how does the low/ high speeds work with only 2 wires on the new fan? Why do you talk about the hi/lo relays? I only have 1 relay in the fuse box on the drivers side under the hood. Too many unanswered questions.
I live in MN so we're almost finished with summer anyway, but I hate to dump the car on some unsuspecting soul. I did A/C work for years back in the past, but things have changed a lot since then.
The cable assembly from the controller to the radiator fan shroud contains more than two wires. A connector on the shroud terminates wires from the two fan relays (Hi and Low) also mounted on the shroud. The relays can be seen from underneath the car while looking up at the shroud assembly.
Having said that, I am unknowledgeable about the exact configuration of the '04 PT. I believe these are the facts for at least the '06 through '10 model years. If anyone else can provide additional confirmation, please do so by posting to this thread.
I do not have relays on the shroud, just the 3 wire connector. One (black) is ground (center) and when I run a hot wire to one side wire, the fan comes on, I don't know if it's high or low. Nothing on the other wire.
There is one relay in the fuse box under the hood that says "low speed fan". I switched it with a new one and nothing cheanges.
When I start engine and turn on the a/c, the compressor comes on, but not the fan, (thinking that's the low speed that's not responding to the Hot wire).
My question is still, there are only 2 wires on the new fan, how do I hook that up to the hi/low factory wires? Should I just hook it up to the one that I know is hot?
I also jumped the wires on the thermostate housing senser and it wouldn't start the fan.
I finally spliced a 14 gauge wire into the wire that makes the fan run and put a stitch inside the car and ran it to the battery term. I just have to make sure I turn the fan off when I get out of the car.
Thanks for any help you can give me. I used to work for our local Chrysler dealer and I doubt if they have ANY idea of what's going on.
Frustrated!
I've had Mopar mini vans for years, but don't need the extra room anymore. Bet I'll have another Mini Van!!!
So Sad! I love the car, but will dump it in a minute if I get a chance . I bet I don't own it next Spring!!!!! Thanks so much for all the info.
Later
I have had A/C issues as discussed in this forum in my 2003 PT. It passed the paperclip test. The radiator fan was not coming on when selecting A/C so I replaced the low speed fan relay since it was easy and cheap. Turned out it was the radiator fan itself. Replaced that and system works fine however, I suspect an overpressure/bleed event happened because the system is not as cold as it used to be. Originally, the air conditioner in this car would freeze you out, it was the coldest I have known.
My question is; can I charge the system (just add some R134a) using a gage? I just have a single gage, not a 2 gage manifold set. So I can only check high side or low side. Every shop I have called says the only way to do it is evacuate and recharge (to the tune of $150). I feel since I know the event/failure that caused the charge to be a little low it would be nice to just add some freon however, I don't want to overcharge either.
Thanks for your help.
Did you have to tilt or remove the radiator or if you can get the 4 bolts off will it lower enough with the lines attached to get to them?
any advice would be greatly appreciated.
2006 Pt cruiser convertible touring edition 2.4L turbo/ auto
Help!
Any advice? It's about $1000 to get a new compressor and we want to make sure this is our only option.
The LPS would have nothing to do with the clutch noise. If the LPS is bad, then it would prevent the clutch from engaging; and when it is good, it can prevent the clutch from cycling when the system is too low on freon and oil.
Attempt to isolate the noise to either the A/C or the power steering. Switch the A/C on and off to see if there is a difference.
Good luck.
previously it would jump and sputter when a/c was running and i was at a light.today when hubby turned on a/c temp shot straight up !! car alarmed,after it cooled it was fine temp went down,is it safe to drive the interstate as long as i don,t run a/c ? i drove the day before i had no problems,and no problem earlier this morn until he turned on a/c :sick:
thank you
Changing is pretty easy (an hour or two), just have to tilt the radiator forward, instructions can be found by googling it. Just be careful draining the radiator as I broke the petcock o-ring and had a challenge finding the right size to replace it.
From my experience with two different mechanics, both of them A/C "specialists", and the experience of many others on this forum, most of them either do not know how to do this test or they are just screwing their customers.
Go back and look at the prior posts on blending (mixing) door (damper).
Here's the YouTube link on how to easily do it yourself:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKQbS1CtmUE
Thanks in advance!
First, check low-speed radiator fan operation. If non-functional, then perform paperclip test (see previous posts). Proceed from there based on results.