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PT Cruiser Air Conditioning Questions/Problems

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Comments

  • babydollsptbabydollspt Member Posts: 6
    We tried that, I'm starting to think its the compressor. The compressor and fan both kick on and run as long as their is refridgerant in the system and it slowly leaks. According to a mechanic it could be leaking from the compressor itself. So that my next replacement.
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Before you replace the compressor, try a lubricant/leak sealer charge. Most national and local auto parts suppliers have these on floor display. They may also include them as part of a kit with a Freon cannister, hose, and pressure gage. The lubricant/leak sealer is a small cartridge that attaches to the low pressure port (the same port used to charge the Freon). The lubricant/sealer also normally includes a red dye to help identify the source of any leaks. Once the lubricant/sealer has been drawn into the A/C system, you will need to check the Freon charge. After a time, the sealer will do its job and the Freon charge will need to be checked one last time.

    These kits are a heck of a lot cheaper than compressor replacement.
  • ptc3ptc3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 PT Cruiser. I have had A/C issues and had my compressor replaced and it still isn't blowing ice cold air. It does blow cooler then before but doesn't ever gett cold enough were I need to lower it. What else could be the issue?
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Two things come to mind: (1) Post-compressor-replacement Freon leak (it happens); have it checked; and, (2) compressor short-cycling, typically caused by our old friend, the LPS.

    Even when all works well, do not expect "ice-cold air". When all works well, the car interior should be comfortable on fan speed 1 (recirculating mode- MAX) in 100-degree heat after a ten-minute cool down at higher fan speeds.
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    The relay modules for low and high speed are mounted on the radiator fan shroud assembly.
  • shawnxl1shawnxl1 Member Posts: 1
    can u tell me were the lps is located i have touring and it my differ from yours but ne info would help
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    edited July 2011
    It is located atop the accumulator against the firewall on the passenger side. Here's a link to a posting page that includes a diagram of what it looks like (it looks the same on a Jeep and a PT):

    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/c-low-pressure-cut-off-switch-827635/
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Well, PT A/C fans, believe it or not, I replaced my LPS (Low Pressure Switch) for the second time in a little over a year. That means I am on my third one since I bought the car (and I did not even have any A/C for over a year). So, any A/C mechanic or dealer who claims no knowledge of this probelm is either uninformed or just not being truthful.

    The good news is that the cost this time out was $10.00 cheaper this year than last ($19.81 vs $29.54), and, I bought it from the same outlet (AutoZone - it was in stock). The part is a Santech MT1191 "A/C Clutch Cycling Switch". It took me all of two minutes to replace it once I opened the hood (See my replacement instructions from last year).

    Once again, my advice to anyone with PT A/C problems is to always, always perform the LPS paperclip test BEFORE spending any money on expensive repairs. Just make sure the system is charged with Freon first.

    Good luck. Please post your success stories on this forum.
  • ollinmollinm Member Posts: 2
    A/C still working great. We had several 100+ degrees days in July. I replaced the fan assembly just to be sure. I guess I'll throw the old one away now even though it still works after a few drops of oil in the motor bearing.
  • ironthunderironthunder Member Posts: 3
    I also have all of these A/C problems. I've read ALL the messages, but I can't find if you can install a new LPS without losing all of the freon. How can that work???

    If I change the rad cooling fan, how does the low/ high speeds work with only 2 wires on the new fan? Why do you talk about the hi/lo relays? I only have 1 relay in the fuse box on the drivers side under the hood. Too many unanswered questions.

    I live in MN so we're almost finished with summer anyway, but I hate to dump the car on some unsuspecting soul. I did A/C work for years back in the past, but things have changed a lot since then.
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Integral with the accumulator LPS fitting is a "Schrader" valve - the same type of valve used on tires for over 100 years. The LPS screws onto the valve/fitting the same way you mights screw a pneumatic device onto a tire valve. The Freon can only escape for a scant second as the LPS is tightened and sealed at the same time the valve begins to open.

    The cable assembly from the controller to the radiator fan shroud contains more than two wires. A connector on the shroud terminates wires from the two fan relays (Hi and Low) also mounted on the shroud. The relays can be seen from underneath the car while looking up at the shroud assembly.

    Having said that, I am unknowledgeable about the exact configuration of the '04 PT. I believe these are the facts for at least the '06 through '10 model years. If anyone else can provide additional confirmation, please do so by posting to this thread.
  • ironthunderironthunder Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for explaining the Schrader valve. I'm very familiar with them. It's almost like they planned on failures. I jumped mine and the fan or compressor still didn't come on.

    I do not have relays on the shroud, just the 3 wire connector. One (black) is ground (center) and when I run a hot wire to one side wire, the fan comes on, I don't know if it's high or low. Nothing on the other wire.

    There is one relay in the fuse box under the hood that says "low speed fan". I switched it with a new one and nothing cheanges.

    When I start engine and turn on the a/c, the compressor comes on, but not the fan, (thinking that's the low speed that's not responding to the Hot wire).

    My question is still, there are only 2 wires on the new fan, how do I hook that up to the hi/low factory wires? Should I just hook it up to the one that I know is hot?

    I also jumped the wires on the thermostate housing senser and it wouldn't start the fan.

    I finally spliced a 14 gauge wire into the wire that makes the fan run and put a stitch inside the car and ran it to the battery term. I just have to make sure I turn the fan off when I get out of the car.

    Thanks for any help you can give me. I used to work for our local Chrysler dealer and I doubt if they have ANY idea of what's going on.

    Frustrated!
  • ironthunderironthunder Member Posts: 3
    Thank GOD the weather has cooled off (80's now). I've been driving on the highway and everything is COOL (great). Temp gauge stays right in the middle, A/C works great. I don't know how the fans are working and don't care as long as everything is working OK. I still have the bypass switch inside the car in case I HAVE to cool everything off. When the weather cools off, I'll unhook the switch and put it back to normal.

    I've had Mopar mini vans for years, but don't need the extra room anymore. Bet I'll have another Mini Van!!!

    So Sad! I love the car, but will dump it in a minute if I get a chance . I bet I don't own it next Spring!!!!! Thanks so much for all the info.

    Later
  • tiasdaddytiasdaddy Member Posts: 1
    Hello;
    I have had A/C issues as discussed in this forum in my 2003 PT. It passed the paperclip test. The radiator fan was not coming on when selecting A/C so I replaced the low speed fan relay since it was easy and cheap. Turned out it was the radiator fan itself. Replaced that and system works fine however, I suspect an overpressure/bleed event happened because the system is not as cold as it used to be. Originally, the air conditioner in this car would freeze you out, it was the coldest I have known.
    My question is; can I charge the system (just add some R134a) using a gage? I just have a single gage, not a 2 gage manifold set. So I can only check high side or low side. Every shop I have called says the only way to do it is evacuate and recharge (to the tune of $150). I feel since I know the event/failure that caused the charge to be a little low it would be nice to just add some freon however, I don't want to overcharge either.
    Thanks for your help.
  • bmacflabmacfla Member Posts: 5
    edited September 2011
    Anyone out there, have you replaced your a/c compressor yourself. I am having trouble figuring out how to get to it. I have the passenger wheel off and the plastic shielding and I can get to the bottom mounting screws but the top are tough and forget about the lines. How did you do it?

    Did you have to tilt or remove the radiator or if you can get the 4 bolts off will it lower enough with the lines attached to get to them?

    any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    2006 Pt cruiser convertible touring edition 2.4L turbo/ auto
  • bmacflabmacfla Member Posts: 5
    I did get all 4 mounting bolts off but how do you get to the gas connectors?
  • bmacflabmacfla Member Posts: 5
    got it done
  • mcfishazmcfishaz Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Turbo and the low pressure A/C hose split. I have unbolted it, but I can't remove it. I know I can cut the hose, but then how do I get the new one in? I have looked at the manuals , but they don't say anything about it. I can't afford the $400 for the mechanic to do it. What is next? It is still in the 100's here so I have to have a cool car.
    Help!
  • snow14snow14 Member Posts: 2
    We just got our 07 touring out of storage (2 years). It sounds like a motor cycle engine when you accelerate. The mechanic could not make the car repeat the noise when he took it for a test drive. It ends up it is the bearings in the a/c compressor. Mechanic said we have to replace the entire compressor? Before we put it in storage, we had the problem with blowing hot air when a/c on, but we did not have time to get the LPS changed. Could this have caused the bearings to go bad, or do you think it was sitting for 2 years.

    Any advice? It's about $1000 to get a new compressor and we want to make sure this is our only option.
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    If it makes the whining noise with the A/C turned off then it is the A/C clutch, assuming that it is at all associated with the A/C. It could also be the power sterring pump. I do not know if it is feasible to replace the A/C clutch without replacing it with the compressor as a unit. But, I would sure try.

    The LPS would have nothing to do with the clutch noise. If the LPS is bad, then it would prevent the clutch from engaging; and when it is good, it can prevent the clutch from cycling when the system is too low on freon and oil.

    Attempt to isolate the noise to either the A/C or the power steering. Switch the A/C on and off to see if there is a difference.

    Good luck.
  • snow14snow14 Member Posts: 2
    The problem is now fixed. It was the compressor, LPS, HPS, and the fan. It now runs better than it did before it went into storage.
  • lilanjill32lilanjill32 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 and mine just started blowing the oderless vapor. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!! How do I fix this problm?
  • mcclint67mcclint67 Member Posts: 2
    Help all...I had my AC fixed at the local Chrysler dealer last April for $917. It stopped blowing cool air after driving for 45 minutes. Now my AC stops blowing cold air while idling but works fine any other time. The dealer last year indicated to me and it says on my receipt, 3yr or 50,000 mile warranty. If it breaks, we fix it free. I took it in and not only am I expected to pay $119 for a diagnostic test, but I'm awaiting the estimate. The guy tells me warranty covers only the parts that have previously been replaced. There is no stipulation on this warranty. My question is, don't they have to honor the warranty they have in writing? PS I only have 40,000 on the car.
  • pcgrannypcgranny Member Posts: 2
    My 2005 pt just started doing the same thing !!
    previously it would jump and sputter when a/c was running and i was at a light.today when hubby turned on a/c temp shot straight up !! car alarmed,after it cooled it was fine temp went down,is it safe to drive the interstate as long as i don,t run a/c ? i drove the day before i had no problems,and no problem earlier this morn until he turned on a/c :sick:
  • pcgrannypcgranny Member Posts: 2
    can someone tell me whats wrong so i don,t get robbed at repair shop,my fan isn,t coming on when i run the casr or turn it off :mad: :sick:
  • mcclint67mcclint67 Member Posts: 2
    cooling fan needs to be replaced or you'll start to overheat. My AC stops at lights and this is the diagnosis. If your fan isn't coming on, that's what it is. I didn't have the dealer do the work as the total would have been $700. The part is way cheaper online and I'll go from there. I may even try to replace it myself
  • gbrauchtgbraucht Member Posts: 1
    I had the same issue with my 07' cruiser. The air conditioning would blow out warm/hot air while i was idling. Turns out I had some kind of major problem with my radiator. Luckily, it was covered by my warranty. After I got that fixed the air conditioning worked fine for about a year, then stopped working all together, only blows out warm air, unless the temp outside it lower then it will blow out cool air. I took it in to the dealership hoping the problem would be covered by my warranty. It was not. They told me they couldn't find any leaks and when they tested the air conditioner it was working fine. One year later, the air conditioner still does not work "fine". I have a much more reliable mechanic now and I will be taking to him to diagnose the problem.
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Sounds like classic and notorious LPS (Low Pressure Switch) symptom. Review previous thread entries for this $19 fix.
  • porchdogporchdog Member Posts: 2
    warm air out of vents. replaced expansion tube and recharged. ice cold to the firewall but still no cold air out of vents. have been told it is the blend door. any info on this.
    thank you
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Sounds like a diverting damper (blend door) that directs the flow of air over the heater core or the evaporator coil. On some cars, this is linked to the cool/heat/temp knob on the console which also regulates flow of hot water through the heater coil (it may also be linked to a separate heat/cool knob). I'm no expert here, but I think there is a actuator linkage for the hot water valve and a second bell-crank linkage for the damper. You should be able to hear the damper clamp shut (or open) when you twist the knob fully (and quickly) in either direction (full hot/full cool).
  • porchdogporchdog Member Posts: 2
    access is what i am looking for. i have some alldata info but trying to nail down where this door is. the data i have calls it a recirculator door. not sure that is it. the other door i have found is behind the glove box above the fan motor,
  • kronykrony Member Posts: 110
    I just fixed my car that was doing this (AC would quit at a stoplight). Mine required replacing the radiator fan assembly ($100 on Amazon.com), as swapping relays would not fix it. Again due to the high speed fan failing and the AC system overpressurizing at a light with higher heat/less air moving.

    Changing is pretty easy (an hour or two), just have to tilt the radiator forward, instructions can be found by googling it. Just be careful draining the radiator as I broke the petcock o-ring and had a challenge finding the right size to replace it.
  • jkfljkfl Member Posts: 4
    I'm going to TRY to keep this as short as possible. Just had the compressor, evaporator & dry replaced on my 2003 PT Cruiser/total cost $1,000. Air didn't blow cold enough from day one, a week later they replaced the compressor again (under warranty), air still not cold & then told me I needed a new condenser for an additional $400. FYI... the original compressor was leaking & intact (i.e. it did NOT "blow up"). A relative checked it over and said no way I needed a condenser & he "thought" there might be a vacuum problem. Took it to my regular mechanic who concurred. The "door" was stuck and only allowing outside air to come. He also found the Freon to be low (said the other shop may have done this on purpose) & once those two issues were resolved the air was ICE COLD. Also checked for leaks & found none. I have it in writing the condenser is FINE. The shop that replaced the system voided my (2 yr) warranty because I refused to allow them to put it in. They said a “high pressure reading on one side” indicated the condenser is clogged. Today (a week later) all of a sudden no more ice cold air (it IS working to some degree). ??? I am at a total loss insofar as WHO to trust, no more $$ and don't know what to do! BTW... I'm in FLORIDA (enough said). Can anyone here help?? Thank you in advance!
  • rodriguez43764rodriguez43764 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2002 Pt,the air stop working only blow hot air , so far i change the low pressure switch, i install 134a freon, the gage go between 40psi to 50psi, i install the pressure gage and when the compressor is not kick in is 40 to 50psi the compressor kick for less of 20 second and the pressure drop to zero, kick off and go back up, but the real problem is the return line from the coil inside the pt frost cool but the low side is hot. Anybody got any idea how to fix the problem? thank for the help
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Even though you replaced the LPS, are you sure the low-speed fan is operating?
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    First, is the Low-Speed radiator fan cycling when the A/C is engaged?
  • jkfljkfl Member Posts: 4
    How do I tell if the fan is engaged?? If it helps, I DID have to have the cooling fan replaced a few years ago (this car has been a nightmare in general).
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    The radiator fan should cycle at low speed anytime the A/C (or defrost) is engaged - assuming that the engine is not already so hot that the high-speed relay is engaging the radiator fan in high speed.
  • jkfljkfl Member Posts: 4
    edited June 2012
    Thank you for replying. Assuming the fan checks out ok... do you feel this situation warrants a new condenser after all?? I have two (certified) mechanics each telling me something entirely different!!
  • rodriguez43764rodriguez43764 Member Posts: 6
    edited June 2012
    I check the fan and is not running on low speed actually some one got it direct on the high speed (with straight wire on the yellow wire) i dont know how really work so excuse me for this question. The slow speed suppose to run when you turn you ac on to keep the tempesure of the engine cool? so if the fan is running all the time at high speed what is the different? Thank for all you help
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    The LPS will cycle the compressor and low-speed mode of the radiator fan. Go back and see my posts (of a year or two ago on this forum) regarding the paperclip test. If you paperclip the LPS connector and turn on the A/C and get cold air, then you know it is the LPS and not the condenser. The high-speed mode is for engine-temp cycling.

    From my experience with two different mechanics, both of them A/C "specialists", and the experience of many others on this forum, most of them either do not know how to do this test or they are just screwing their customers.
  • rodriguez43764rodriguez43764 Member Posts: 6
    edited June 2012
    I did the paper clip test and no cool air coming to the bend, but the return horse coming from inside the pt got froze, the low side was hot. Do you thing is the condenser bad? When i did the paper clip test the compressor kick on in to i take the jump, i got the new LPS and the compressor only kick for 10 to 15 second go out and kick again ? Still no cold air on the bend,s. Thank you for response.
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Hmmmm... if you have a frozen pipe and a hot pipe (low side and high side) then a refrigeration cycle is occurring. I supposed it could still be a bad or clogged metering valve in the evaporator but the 10 to 15 second cycle time seems normal. It almost sound like a bad mixing door (damper).

    Go back and look at the prior posts on blending (mixing) door (damper).
  • rodriguez43764rodriguez43764 Member Posts: 6
    Thank you for you help, i check the damper is working, am almost for sure is the evaporator here is my Theory from the compressor go to the condesor (hot air or gas) from the condesor go to the expansion valve (still hot) which convert in to cool gas which go to the evaporator. from the evaporator go to the Dryer (acumulator) still cool air from there go to the compressor (still cool air) and that is the cycle of the a/c. my is good in to when it go to the evaporator, go cool but come out hot. The damper is working , belive me when i say i which i payed the $1,000.00 you got to get the dash out and that toke a lot of work ,then you fine out you got to get the stering well out, after that is a plastic (part of the dash) which i dont know the name, wait am not finish yet, lol. You got this big metal part which you got to get out, wow belive me when i say am better dealing with 5 ex wife's and that would be alot more easier, i got that now, i got to get the avaporator out which dont look easy. I let you guy's know how the story end. Pray for me because i got 200 part out and i need Jesus HELP !
  • rodriguez43764rodriguez43764 Member Posts: 6
    Well unvaliable i take everything out and the problem was leaf and bunch of cra........p on the evaporator clean it up and cool air condition, after 2 days taking the dash of, next time i will pay to cleaning the damn thing, almost finish thank for all the help
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Ah yes, the old crap on the evaporator problem. Well, at least its cheaper than replacing the coil. This is another problem that would be avoided if Chrysler had made the passenger compartment air filter a factory inclusion and not an after-market owner installation responsibility.

    Here's the YouTube link on how to easily do it yourself:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKQbS1CtmUE
  • pcoughlinpcoughlin Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2012
    I have a 2002 PT Classic (non-turbo) with 141k on it. My issue with the A/C operation is as follows: Back in May I spent $150 to have the a/c looked over and charged as it was blowing warm air. It did in fact really need the charge which was done with the whole dye thing, as I had been told there MAY be a leak but it couldn't be detected right then. It's been working fine and now just yesterday it's blowing very warm air. I was careful to listen to hear the compressor click on but it seems I hear a click under the hood every 3 or 4 seconds.... and I don't seem to ever feel cold air coming out of the vents. When I had the service I mentioned previously, I was told the compressor was working ok, which it had the last few weeks. Any idea what might be going on?

    Thanks in advance!
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Assuming fuse and relays or OK -

    First, check low-speed radiator fan operation. If non-functional, then perform paperclip test (see previous posts). Proceed from there based on results.
  • rodriguez43764rodriguez43764 Member Posts: 6
    Well all that work, evrething look ok, condesor is cool evrething feal like suppost to BUT NO COOL AIR ON THE BEND HELLLLPH going nut here. THANK YOU
  • boozersdadboozersdad Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 pt with 33,000, a/c stoped working, it was the low pressure sending unit, this is located on top of the "can' on , it was 18.00 part at autozone, to test to see if that is your problem, unplug the senseor, using a paper clip or or bare wire, instert it into the plug, (this will complete the electirc current to cyle) then turn the a/c on in the car on high, if the compressor kicks on, then that is the problem, when taking out the bad unti, just unscrew it and screw in the new part, you will not loose what freeon is in the car, because it has a tire like valve stem in the unit that closes , You will have to add new freeon to the car, on mine I added two cans of 134a
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