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Comments
Took it to a different mechanic to get a second opinion and they said there was not a drop of frion in the system so they wouldn't be able to do any testing until it was recharged.
Asked the 1st shop why no frion in the system and of course they said because a leak in the compressor had all of the frion escape.
The second mechanic will check it out for $200, which includes replacing the frion and do a oil/dye test.
Seems like I'm caught between a rock and a hard place. Have to spend more money to have someone else verify where the leak is and if in fact I need a new compressor.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I'm a female and unfortunately always feel like mechanics are taking advantage of me.
If the LPS tests bad, it is a $19 part that is super easy to replace in ten minutes with a crescent wrench.
If the LPS is engaging the compressor clutch, then invest in an A/C kit from AutoZone that includes freon/lubricant/dye. A decent kit will have a freon pressure gauge affixed to the freon hose. Find a friend who can at least get a little freon and the lubricant/dye mix into the system. Then see if the compressor really is leaking.
I use the term "invest" because you going to be betting about $50 for the kit against a $600 repair.
So decided to give this paperclip test a go yesterday... 5 minutes later, air con back on. Well worth giving this a go. Thanks so much for posting it!
My husband is now calling himself Macgyver
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=461676450535352&set=a.423945877641743.911- 42.100000790024714&type=1&relevant_count=1&ref=nf
Where is it located? Is it hard to access?
Thx Dave
The LPS stands for Low Pressure Switch, which, on the PT Cruiser is one and the same with the air conditioner cycling switch (a nice tidbit of information to know since some mechanics as well as auto part store clerks refer to by the first and others by the second, leading you to believe there are TWO different switches). It is mounted atop a silver-colored metal canister which is attached to the firewall on the passenger side of the vehicle.
Thank you,
Melissa
I took a picture of where it's dripping/pouring from, but there is nothing there that looks like it has a leak.
low pressure fuse - ok
Freon level - ok
new low pressure relay installed
Compresser belt - ok
High pressure fan works when radiator is hot. But the air conditioner still does not work. We added coolant and have looked all over and see no reason why the fan is not working when air conditioner is on. There seems to be little if any cool air coming from the vents, however, the weather has been cool. When the a/c is turned on, the car seems to surge when idling but as yet has not stalled. When the a/c is turned off, no problem. We are wondering what to check next prior to simply assuming that it is the fan. Is there a way to check the compressor? What about hoses or switches or anything we may have missed. Thanks for any help.
If we short out the LPS connector cable contacts(with the paper clip), does that assume that the LPS is not working even though it appeared to be working with the ohmmeter which showed continuity? Is there another switch, fuse, or cable that might be defective?
We have checked the following and determined that they are working:
COmpressor belt, fuse for low speed relay, freon level, low speed relay, high speed radiator fan (or at least the fan came on when the radiator was hot), low pressure switch (by ohmeter test).
Is there an easy way to find out if the clutch is engaged or not without putting the car up on lifts?
I have a 2009 PT Cruiser. The AC in the works when the car is in motion, but blows warm air when stopped. I took it to the dealer today and they told me the High Pressure Cut Off Switch is broken and needs to be replaced. However, they could not confirm this would fix the problem. It will cost over $450 to have the dealer complete the repairs. Is this a simple repair I can do myself?
This morning I try again. Start car and switch on A/C, Radiator Fan comes on and compressor cycles on and off, cold air blows from vent. Hook up gauge set (high side was on the wrong port yesterday) Low Connector to low side by accumulator and high side down by the compressor (not up by the accumulator). The ambient temperature is 70 degrees. The low pressure gauge was reading high 70 psi. and the high pressure gauge was reading low 70 – 80 psi. I decided to add 134a refrigerant. Everything was going fine until 15 minutes later when the 12 ounce can was about empty the fan quit and the compressor quit cycling. What the??? It seems when everything gets hot everything quits. The fan quits, then runs only on High Speed when it has too? The compressor doesn’t ever cycle (I have a chalk mark on the clutch). Check the engine temperature gauge (on the dash) and it reads dead center between hot and cold. Pulled the Fan Relays (from the Power Distribution Center) check for continuity with the 9v battery and ohm meter. The A/C and Fan (High and Low) Relays all check good. All the related fuses are good (checked visually and with ohm meter). I try the “Paper Clip Test” shorting the Low Pressure Switch prongs inside the connector wire (not the switch) but nothing happens. No compressor and no fan. (I did all this while everything is still hot at operating temperature.)
After adding the 12 ounces of 134a the low side pressure went down to about 45 psi. and the high side got up to about 100 psi. The center vent was blowing 95 degrees because the compressor isn’t cycling anymore? I thought everything was going fine until everything wasn’t. Got the engine cooled down with external (house) fans. Start the engine switch on the A/C and everything works. Fan comes on and the compressor cycles on and off. I think more refrigerant is needed to get the pressures right, but with the fan and compressor not working at temperature, why add more until I figure out why. The manual chart states: Ambient Temperature 70 degrees, vent temperature 29 – 42 degrees, Compressor Discharge Pressure 145 – 175 psi. (high side) and Accumulator Out Pressure at Service Port 18 – 32 psi. (low side).
Not sure what else to try. The only thing I can think of is the Low Pressure Switch. Maybe on the 2002 model year the “Paper Clip Test” doesn’t work but I don't understand why it wouldn't. The coolant level is full in the radiator and to the full level mark in the auxiliary tank. This is a real puzzler any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time and ideas.