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PT Cruiser Air Conditioning Questions/Problems

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Comments

  • marcaseymarcasey Member Posts: 1
    My PT has only 50K miles. A/C would blow warm air at stop signs, rough idle and lurching. When A/C not on, no problems. Took it in for a diagnostic and after 2 days they recharged the system and said the valve on the liquid line was the problem and they replaced it. Also replace a motor mount which they said was causing the rough idle and lurching. Picked it up and the A/C seemed to be working fine. Over the weekend put a total of 30 miles on, was a cool weekend so didnt't need A/C. Tried it on Monday and no A/C. Took it back in and they looked it over for 2 hrs. and came back with me needing a new compressor! Why wasn't this looked at during the first visit??

    Took it to a different mechanic to get a second opinion and they said there was not a drop of frion in the system so they wouldn't be able to do any testing until it was recharged.

    Asked the 1st shop why no frion in the system and of course they said because a leak in the compressor had all of the frion escape.

    The second mechanic will check it out for $200, which includes replacing the frion and do a oil/dye test.

    Seems like I'm caught between a rock and a hard place. Have to spend more money to have someone else verify where the leak is and if in fact I need a new compressor.

    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I'm a female and unfortunately always feel like mechanics are taking advantage of me.
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Start with the well documented LPS paperclip test described in threads on this forum. (I had the same initial symptoms that you describe at about 48K miles.)

    If the LPS tests bad, it is a $19 part that is super easy to replace in ten minutes with a crescent wrench.

    If the LPS is engaging the compressor clutch, then invest in an A/C kit from AutoZone that includes freon/lubricant/dye. A decent kit will have a freon pressure gauge affixed to the freon hose. Find a friend who can at least get a little freon and the lubricant/dye mix into the system. Then see if the compressor really is leaking.

    I use the term "invest" because you going to be betting about $50 for the kit against a $600 repair.
  • gbellant3gbellant3 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2006 pt crusier and so far we can see that the compressor is not getting juice ,, now what could it be a electrical problem, short or the compressor??
  • gbellant3gbellant3 Member Posts: 2
    i have had my 2006 pt checked by machinacs and so for the compressor is not getting juice to kick on, so does any one know what is wrong with it and how much a new one will cost, last yr i had to put in fan and motor, that was over $300 hope i don't have to put that mauch in this yr.
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    What are the results of the paperclip test? (See this forum thread, many references.)
  • shobudsteelmanshobudsteelman Member Posts: 7
    In browsing the posts here I found #203 to provide what could be the solution to my problem. I took my Cruiser in for diagnostics today because the a/c stopped working several weeks ago and I just did not have the money to get it repaired. My question is whether the statement in post #203 about there being a valve stem shutoff under this low pressure switch or not on the 2007 year model. Post #203's title refers to the 2006 model while the opening line of the post deals with a 2007 model. Hoping what is stated is also true for the 2007 model year vehicles.
  • shobudsteelmanshobudsteelman Member Posts: 7
    For those who may be skeptical, this really works. The low pressure switch on my 2007 PT Cruiser Convertible is on the top of the grey/silver canister attached to the firewall on the passenger side. Simply undo the electrical connector on top, pull it up enough to be able to insert an opened paperclip firmly in the two connections. Start your engine and turn the a/c on. I had to readjust the paperclip a couple of times to get a good connection. This is a fantastic and free way to check the low pressure switch. Wish I had some idea to check this and how before I dropped $75 for diagnostics.
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Thanks for contributing another validation.
  • maw1125maw1125 Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2012
    I have a 2003 pt cruiser 5 speed with 164,400+ miles. I have been having alot of overheating problems over the last few months. I have replaced the radiator and hoses, thermostat, and cooling fan. I have had the AC system pressure checked a couple times and have been told there was nothing wrong, they also said the compressor was ok. For the most part my car will not overheat unless the AC is on. A couple of times it over heated the AC started blowing warm air and I heard a buzzing/grinding noise just before it started to run hot. After i heard the noise i saw smoke coming from the front of my car on the right side. I have had 2 different shops check it out they keep telling me they cant find out why it is overheating still, they cant get it to overheat when they have it and it only does it to me at night when the shops are closed! Is it my AC compressor?? Most of the time it overheats my AC is on but there has been a few times it has overheated without the AC being on.
  • patman1patman1 Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem with my wife's car. The smoke was white. All I had to do was replace the fan, $80 for a new assy online. About an hour to replace. The fan has 2 speeds, high speed is for when you are running a/c. To see if it is the fan, run the car till the fan kicks on. Watch the fan and have someone turn on a/c. You should see and hear a difference. If not, the high speed is shot. order the fan assy. Pull the grill off, 2 bolts on top then slide it up and away. take loose the radiator, Its only 3 bolts if I remember right. Now you can move the radiator and get more room. 4 bolts on the fan assy, 2 up 2 down, unplug the fan and slide it out the top. Put the new one in and your good to go. I hate working on cars but this was an easy job.
  • beckert1beckert1 Member Posts: 1
    edited December 2012
    Ok I was really sceptical about this but when the air con on our 2006 PT Cruiser (bought in 2008 ex demo with only 27,000 currently on the clock) went. Just as summer kicked in and 2 weeks before Xmas, we didn't want to take it in for fixing not knowing how many hundreds it would cost.
    So decided to give this paperclip test a go yesterday... 5 minutes later, air con back on. Well worth giving this a go. Thanks so much for posting it!
    My husband is now calling himself Macgyver
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Thanks for sharing. The test costs nothing and it can save hundreds - not to mention the frustration and hassle.
  • shobudsteelmanshobudsteelman Member Posts: 7
    Have been meaning to get back on here for weeks, since I first posted here my earlier concerns about the truth of a cutoff valve underneath the low pressure cut off switch. In my search for an answer, I learned that this is not only the low pressure cutoff switch but the CYCLING SWITCH as well. Once I had tried the paperclip test and had my air conditioner up and running in seconds, I knew this switch was the problem. As a backyard mechanic with 38 years experience, I was very concerned about whether there actually was a cutoff valve beneath this switch or not on the 2007 year model. I bought a new low pressure/cycling switch at the local auto parts store for around $17 and him-hawed around for several more days, all the while using the paperclip to keep my air conditioner running (something that I and other knowledgeable people would not recommend doing as a semi-permanent or permanent fix, but this vehicle is usually used sporadically, and I knew that my Freon level was fine as there had been no problems immediately prior to this switch going bad). One day, rather frustrated, I happened into a recently opened repair shop in our small town, popped out of my car and asked the very young mechanic headed my way if he had time to answer a question for me. I popped the hood and showed him the new switch and asked if in fact there was a cutoff valve underneath. To which he replied yes, and offered to put the new valve in for me for $5. Can you believe it? The dealership had quoted me a price of $225 to do the same thing only they insisted the system would have to evacuated of Freon and recovered, the switch replaced, and the Freon put back in the system, AT WHICH TIME, they would also top off my Freon level. I gladly paid the $75 diagnostic fee that day, but had no access to the amount of money, real or plastic, that they were wanting to charge me. At any rate I now can attest under oath that there IS a Schrader valve underneath the low pressure cut off switch located on the silver canister mounted to the firewall on the 2007 PT Cruiser, and for a grand total cost of $17 and less than five minutes work, ANYONE can make this repair! See the picture I posted on my Facebook wall: sterlingministries@yahoo.com for the proof!
  • shobudsteelmanshobudsteelman Member Posts: 7
    Here is the url for the picture of the Schrader valve underneath the low pressure cutoff/cycling switch on the 2007 PT Cruiser. No one should be afraid of attempting this repair given this proof that such a valve exists:

    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=461676450535352&set=a.423945877641743.911- 42.100000790024714&type=1&relevant_count=1&ref=nf
  • shobudsteelmanshobudsteelman Member Posts: 7
    edited December 2012
    Oh, last post for a while, I promise concerning this issue! FYI replacing this switch requires a 17mm wrench or SAE equivalent. (See posts 209, 210, 216 and 218 for a record of my journey.)
  • ptlover45ptlover45 Member Posts: 3
    FIRST OFF, WHAT AN LPS ? I have done many car repairs myself but not encountered the "LPS"
    Where is it located? Is it hard to access?
    Thx Dave
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    The LPS is the Low Pressure Switch that cycles the A/C compressor on and off during normal operation. In the case of the PT Cruiser and other Chrysler vehicles, it also enables the low-speed radiator fan (replacing the fan is a frequent mistake). It is located atop the accumulator (firewall, passenger side). It is easily accessible and replaceable. Carefully unclip the connector and test compressor engagement with a paperclip. You can get the Sentech LPS at AutoZone (etc.) for under $20. No hose, vacuum, or freon required. The LPS is screwed onto a valve fitting to prevent loss of freon gas (just unscrew and re-attach quickly).
  • shobudsteelmanshobudsteelman Member Posts: 7
    Dave

    The LPS stands for Low Pressure Switch, which, on the PT Cruiser is one and the same with the air conditioner cycling switch (a nice tidbit of information to know since some mechanics as well as auto part store clerks refer to by the first and others by the second, leading you to believe there are TWO different switches). It is mounted atop a silver-colored metal canister which is attached to the firewall on the passenger side of the vehicle.
  • misselissa21misselissa21 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 PT Cruiser and 2 or 3 years ago the A/C stopped blowing cold air unless I was driving. It would blow hot air and make the engine sputter when stopped at a light or stop sign, or when idling. Within the past few months it started gurgling when parked. Then, yesterday, it started blowing smelly smoke out of the vents, so I turned it off and haven't turned it back on. Now, it is dumping hot liquid into the drivers side of the car burning my feet when I am driving. It leaks more liquid as the car gets hotter, and when I make a right turn. It smells awful, and is filling my floorboard with liquid. The engine is not overheating, and I checked the fluids in everything I could find under the hood, but I am not exactly car savvy. I know it has something to do with the A/C, but where do I start?

    Thank you,
    Melissa
    I took a picture of where it's dripping/pouring from, but there is nothing there that looks like it has a leak.
  • bronzedartbronzedart Member Posts: 1
    We own a '04 pt, the air is blowing warm. The compressor isn't working, I tried the paperclip to jump the cycle switch and it came on but still warm. Replaced the switch but it still doesn't come on unless I jump the connection, and still warm. I noticed the ac control fan switch inside the car doesn't light up blue when you turn it to the cool settings also, it does on the white side. Any help out there? Also I don't have a lower side port in my line to recharge it as pictured online and in the book, help?
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    The switch and paperclip won't help if you are out of Freon or the low-speed fan does not actually run. These are just two of a dozen other potential problems. In any case, there is a lower side port all systems have them.
  • cevans3901cevans3901 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2007 Pt Cruiser. Replaced the fan last year, and had no more problems for several months. Once when I turned it on it blew hot air only and compressor wouldn't come on. First time in the spring, it worked fine and was ice cold, but when I turned it on again, and after many attempts, compressor won't come on. Freon is full. Any suggestions?
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    First step - always. Perform the paper clip test described in a few dozen posts on this site.
  • ptcruzrptcruzr Member Posts: 4
    Here is what I have checked so far:
    low pressure fuse - ok
    Freon level - ok
    new low pressure relay installed
    Compresser belt - ok

    High pressure fan works when radiator is hot. But the air conditioner still does not work. We added coolant and have looked all over and see no reason why the fan is not working when air conditioner is on. There seems to be little if any cool air coming from the vents, however, the weather has been cool. When the a/c is turned on, the car seems to surge when idling but as yet has not stalled. When the a/c is turned off, no problem. We are wondering what to check next prior to simply assuming that it is the fan. Is there a way to check the compressor? What about hoses or switches or anything we may have missed. Thanks for any help.
  • jkfljkfl Member Posts: 4
    I don't know much about this stuff at all... but I can tell you I have a 2003 and have had to replace the coolant fan TWICE. I also ended up having the compressor, evaporator & dryer replaced but the air still didn't blow cold ($1000+). THEN they "tried" to tell me I needed a new condenser as well, but another mechanic figured out the inside/outside "door" (i.e. you can switch back & forth) was stuck only bringing outside air in. It took a few minutes to fix that and I was good to go (saved me $400)! Now I'm dealing with the motor mounts needing to be replaced AGAIN. The car shakes like hell but there's no way I can afford this repair. I would NEVER have purchased this car had I known the cost of upkeep. Good luck!
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    The hi-speed radiator fan does not affect A/C; the lo-speed fan does. The LPS must function to cycle the lo-speed fan.
  • ptcruzrptcruzr Member Posts: 4
    Ok. we checked the low pressure switch with an ohm meter and it showed continuity. Do we still need to use the paper clip test? What is the purpose of the low pressure switch? What should we check next to find out why it does not work?
  • ptcruzrptcruzr Member Posts: 4
    What is the inside/outside door? that you refer to?
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    The paperclip test does one of two things: it verifies the LPS as a culprit, or, it indicates another source of the problem. By using the paperclip to short out the LPS connector cable contacts, the low-speed radiator fan should activate. This must happen for the A/C to function. If the paperclip is properly shorting out the contacts in the LPS connector cable and the low-speed radiator is still not running then there is a good chance that the fan, relay, or fan cable is defective (assuming a good fuse). If those things are known good, then there is a problem in the compressor clutch engagement (assuming that the original issues was non-engagement).
  • ptcruzrptcruzr Member Posts: 4
    If we turn on the air conditioner and the LPS is working, then should the low speed fan be running?
    If we short out the LPS connector cable contacts(with the paper clip), does that assume that the LPS is not working even though it appeared to be working with the ohmmeter which showed continuity? Is there another switch, fuse, or cable that might be defective?
    We have checked the following and determined that they are working:
    COmpressor belt, fuse for low speed relay, freon level, low speed relay, high speed radiator fan (or at least the fan came on when the radiator was hot), low pressure switch (by ohmeter test).

    Is there an easy way to find out if the clutch is engaged or not without putting the car up on lifts?
  • rbailrbail Member Posts: 1
    Melissa...does it smell sweet? If so, it's more than likely antifreeze. Can you find out what color? My 07 has red colored coolant. Also, most AC systems won't be pouring fluid. My 13 years of being a Ford Technician tells me you have a heater core thats bad. Hope this may help you out some. Randy Bailey
  • johngee3johngee3 Member Posts: 2
    Allow me to perceive you as somewhat of an authority. My P/T overheated twice, with the 1st time being low coolant and the 2nd time they replaced the fan. NOW it runs in idle for as long as 45 minutes with the needle in the normal position and (so far) I've been able to drive 12 miles without the needle moving UNTIL I switch on the AC and it goes up again until I turn off the AC. Help!
  • johngee3johngee3 Member Posts: 2
    Why would the 2003 P/T Cruiser heat up when the AC goes on?
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Which of the two fans was replaced? The low-speed fan is a MUST for A/C - no low-speed fan = no A/C. The high-speed fan will run independently of the A/C and the low-speed fan. Secondly, if the LPS is "stuck" in the closed position (ON) the compressor will over compress and over-heat the condenser; causing the radiator to over-heat.
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    See the next message.
  • dftaylor1958dftaylor1958 Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: i have a 06 pt cruiser the ac works up 50 mph when you run at 70 the ac compreser stops and it gets hot slow down to 50 mph and it cools can some one HELP :sick:
  • tkoehler888tkoehler888 Member Posts: 1
    2006 limited cruiser. the accumulator, when the air conditioner is first (one time only) turned on makes a pop and shakes violently. system is cooling but there is a short cycle of the compressor so I'm sure it is a little low on freon. any suggestions?
  • bpupicbpupic Member Posts: 1
    My PT 2.4 (2003) has the following problem: in the past 20 days it leaked freon gas twice, which has been just filled in. Moreover, the A/C turns on even when the regular outside air cooling is on. Temperature of the car is always optimal and its control system indicates no error. What could be the problem???
  • wrosamondwrosamond Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 PT Cruiser and the a/c unit has gone out 3 times. It seems to loose charge in "hot" weather and blows warm air. I have replaced a/c unit 3 times within last month. Seems like it over pressures and pops overpressure valve. It worked real good at first, but after the outside temp. got hot it blew warm air. A puff of vapor was seen when I stopped.
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    Have you checked both the low-speed and high-speed fan operation? A fault in either can cause similar symptoms. What do you mean when you say you have replaced A/C unit three times in the past month?
  • sweeks1sweeks1 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 07 pt cruiser. Where can I find the a/c relay?
  • sweeks1sweeks1 Member Posts: 2
    Where is this door you mentioned?
  • sean73sean73 Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased an 05 or cruiser I recently had the sputter at idle with AC on then temp shot up overheated I didn't even go a mike my question is after reading all the posts is where is the AC cycle switch located on the car
  • sean73sean73 Member Posts: 2
    Can I get the fan relay switches at prolly or AutoZone
  • bthompson40207bthompson40207 Member Posts: 62
    It's atop the accumulator on the right (passenger side) firewall. The accumulator is an aluminum, round-ended cylinder through which A/C lines pass.
  • moparmurphymoparmurphy Member Posts: 1
    I have an 09 pt cruiser and it started running hot at idle and it's winter so I haven't been using the ac only heater but when I'm driving it doesn't over heat so I replaced the thermostat and put new hoat coolant in it cause I figured it needed to be changed but now the temp hand won't move much over the c and the heat isn't really getting hot just a little warm and I have noticed sometime it idles rough and it will shudder some times .I had the compressor replaced a few months ago and it stopped shuttering at idel but some times it still does once I get off the gas and still kinda idles rough i turned the ac on low speed and the fan came on and the high speed fan works too I'm not a great mechanic when it comes to things like this. Any clue whats going on
  • coachmarcuscoachmarcus Member Posts: 1

    I have a 2009 PT Cruiser. The AC in the works when the car is in motion, but blows warm air when stopped. I took it to the dealer today and they told me the High Pressure Cut Off Switch is broken and needs to be replaced. However, they could not confirm this would fix the problem. It will cost over $450 to have the dealer complete the repairs. Is this a simple repair I can do myself?

  • dg1953dg1953 Member Posts: 1
    Here's a "shout out" to bthompson40207 on the topic of a/c for the 2006 PT Cruiser. Came across your comments on July 2010, as my a/c had gone out last fall. I am not, by any stretch, a mechanic, but I did the paperclip test, replaced the pressure switch, and the a/c works great. Many thanks for saving me, potentially, big bucks. You're "the man"!
  • cruiserdgnr8cruiserdgnr8 Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2015
    2002 Pt Cruiser, Limited, 87,000 miles, owned for about 5 months. Everything works on the car except the A/C. I have the shop manual and have trouble shot the best I can. I have read many posts by bthompson40207 and others (thanks for all the help!). Here is where I am: Noticed the “Low Speed Fan (Radiator Fan)” wasn’t coming on when the A/C (dash switch) was turned on to low setting (or any other). Checked fan with a 9v Transistor Radio Battery (as suggested by Parts Store guy) both speeds work. Found a short in the wire on the car side of the connector. I repaired the wires by cutting out the bad spots, soldered the wires back together and used Dielectric Grease and heat shrink tubing over joints to seal them up. Start the car, switch on the A/C; Radiator Cooling Fan comes on and the compressor cycles on and off. Sweet! Hook up Gauge Set to check pressures and Thermometer in the center vent. Pressures seem OK, vent temperature 40 - 42 degrees and ambient temperature 80 degrees. Nice! Go to town to return unneeded repair parts. A/C blows hot air all the way there and back, 12 miles round trip 30 – 45 miles an hour. I do more research.
    This morning I try again. Start car and switch on A/C, Radiator Fan comes on and compressor cycles on and off, cold air blows from vent. Hook up gauge set (high side was on the wrong port yesterday) Low Connector to low side by accumulator and high side down by the compressor (not up by the accumulator). The ambient temperature is 70 degrees. The low pressure gauge was reading high 70 psi. and the high pressure gauge was reading low 70 – 80 psi. I decided to add 134a refrigerant. Everything was going fine until 15 minutes later when the 12 ounce can was about empty the fan quit and the compressor quit cycling. What the??? It seems when everything gets hot everything quits. The fan quits, then runs only on High Speed when it has too? The compressor doesn’t ever cycle (I have a chalk mark on the clutch). Check the engine temperature gauge (on the dash) and it reads dead center between hot and cold. Pulled the Fan Relays (from the Power Distribution Center) check for continuity with the 9v battery and ohm meter. The A/C and Fan (High and Low) Relays all check good. All the related fuses are good (checked visually and with ohm meter). I try the “Paper Clip Test” shorting the Low Pressure Switch prongs inside the connector wire (not the switch) but nothing happens. No compressor and no fan. (I did all this while everything is still hot at operating temperature.)
    After adding the 12 ounces of 134a the low side pressure went down to about 45 psi. and the high side got up to about 100 psi. The center vent was blowing 95 degrees because the compressor isn’t cycling anymore? I thought everything was going fine until everything wasn’t. Got the engine cooled down with external (house) fans. Start the engine switch on the A/C and everything works. Fan comes on and the compressor cycles on and off. I think more refrigerant is needed to get the pressures right, but with the fan and compressor not working at temperature, why add more until I figure out why. The manual chart states: Ambient Temperature 70 degrees, vent temperature 29 – 42 degrees, Compressor Discharge Pressure 145 – 175 psi. (high side) and Accumulator Out Pressure at Service Port 18 – 32 psi. (low side).
    Not sure what else to try. The only thing I can think of is the Low Pressure Switch. Maybe on the 2002 model year the “Paper Clip Test” doesn’t work but I don't understand why it wouldn't. The coolant level is full in the radiator and to the full level mark in the auxiliary tank. This is a real puzzler any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time and ideas.
  • smaller80smaller80 Member Posts: 2
    edited August 2015
    Thank you bthompson40207!!!!  My friend told me that she had replaced some rely on her two pt cruisers at about 60,000 miles (lucky me I made it to 80,000!)...was $400 a pop... Searching here you gave me the right name and part number MT1191 for 2006-2010 models.  It didn't come up when they search in on Auto Zone computers for my year, but with the pretty number they found it. I went to the auto parts store...$18.99. I know I still have a leak to fix, but after your advice and a youtube video I did it myself. It wasn't even a big thing! Did it in my scrubs before work! $380.00 was something I couldn't afford. I was able to go home and recharge my freon now that the LPS problem was fixed. You have made this single mothers hour drive and contentment in herself so much better. Thank you from the bottom of my heart! God Bless!
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