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Thank you.
Are these vent doors operated by vacuum line or electrical drive?
Thanks in advance.
RichW
First, one shop told me that the computer module would need replacement. I did not even ask how much that would cost. Another shop told me that the entire radiator fan and cowling assembly needed replacement. The shop wanted $680 to perform the job. The reason given for the high cost was the $425 price of the original Chrysler part. I told the shop "no thanks" and I found the assembly on line (brand new) for $88. It was easy and fairly straight-forward enough to replace the assembly myself. After replacement, the A/C still did not work. There appeared to be no change in symptoms.
Next, after more on-line post readings, I paper-clipped the contacts in the Low-Pressure Switch connector that sits atop the accumulator. After starting the engine, I immediately felt ice cold air for the first time in two years. I found the switch in stock at my local Auto Zone for $29 (Santech #MT1191). It was super simple to replace. No freon vacuuming is required - just unscrew the old switch and screw in the new one. The wiring connector easily pulls off and the only tool requited to remove and replace the part is a small crescent wrench or a half-inch wrench. It is a ten-minute job. Within an hour of the paper-clip diagnosis, the problem was repaired and the A/C has been working perfectly ever since.
So, before you shell out big bucks on other "remedies", pull off that LPS connector, use a small piece of wire or paper clip and short the two contacts in the connector (do not let the jumper short out against the engine or body metal). Then, see if the A/C is working. You may want to take it for a full test drive before you decide. I did make sure that I had a full charge of freon before I tested the LPS.
Good luck!
Thanks
It was $88 for the entire fan assembly and about $9 for shipping. You CAN do it yourself; it's relatively easy. It helped that I had mini drive-up ramps and a floor creeper, but, these are not mandatory.
Remove the negative battery terminal but don't waste time removing the entire battery and battery shelf. Removing the wiring connector is a little tricky. Look at the connection in good lighting. Slide a small-bladed screwdriver between the (fan side) catch prongs and the body of the connector (the raised hump). Then pull out the (car-side) jack.
I did not open the radiator drain plug. I just shoved a short piece of plastic tubing into the radiator cap (the metal cap over the front of engine, not the plastic over-flow cap) and after it filled with fluid, I pinched the end and pulled it out to create a siphon. I drained out two beer cans worth of fluid. With the car on the ramps, this was enough to drop the fluid level below the upper radiator hose flange.
Remove the two lower fan cowling bolts then the bolt on each side. The driver's side bolt is the most problematic - having a thin arm helps. Remove the front grill by removing the four bolts on top and then unsnapping the grill by pulling each side forward until it pops out - you'll see the two snaps on each side as you pull it toward you.
Twist the two radiator retainers (black oval-shaped plastic about the size of a dollar coin) on the top of the radiator counter -clockwise and pull them off. Lift off the front portion of the rubber hood gasket and set it out of your way. Remove the upper radiator bracket bolts and the one center brace bolt. Remove the remaining two upper fan cowling bolts, tilt the radiator forward and behold! You can now pull out the entire fan assembly. Just install the new fan by reversing the process.
Easy. Budget about 90 minutes of your time.
Thanks BThompson. Must be a lot of this going around.
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2007/chrysler/pt_cruiser/cooling_system/radiato- r_fan_assembly.html
And, in the category of "Just Really Bad Luck", the new switch may be defective. Perform the LPS paper clip test again. If the compressor kicks in when the LPS connector is shorted with the paper clip, then you may need to buy a $10 can of R-134a that comes with a gage (Big Lots), attach it to the low-pressure line and see how much of a charge is indicated.
Good luck.
I will reply to anyone who has questions within a reasonable period of days. I have set up my posts to e-mail me of any responses. I do ask that anyone who benefits from these posts to also pass along their "lessons learned".
I'm not trying to make you feel like a novice, but I will elaborate further for the other novices out there (like I was recently) .
The Low Pressure Switch (LPS) cycles the compressor based on the pressure in the accumulator (aluminum cannister that LPS is mounted atop). Pressure is a function of the temperature of the Freon liquid/gas cycle loop. This is why the compressor will not kick in at idle when the low-speed radiator fan is defective but it will kick in if the vehicle is at highway speed, or if the high speed fan can lower the condenser coil temp enough to trip a non-defective LPS. In other words, there must be enough air flow across the condenser coil to lower the pressure to the point that it will close the LPS and kick in the compressor.
By-passing the LPS via shorting out the connector contacts (the connector with the wires leading from it that plugs onto the top of the LPS) takes the switch and accumulator pressure out of the troubleshooting equation. The LPS switch contacts go to the computer module and the closed switch (such as when the contacts are shorted with a paper clip) signals the computer to tell the compressor to engage.
So, the paper clip test can not only by-pass the LPS switch and pressure as factors, it can also by-pass the low-speed radiator fan as an issue. In other words, if the LPS connector contacts are shorted, the computer will attempt to engage the compressor even though there may be low Freon, a bad LPS, and a decective low-speed radiator fan (assuming other components have been verified such as fuse, relay, and high-pressure cut-out switch).
Therefore, IF the LPS paper clip test causes the compressor to engage, then there are three things to check:
1. Low Freon
2. Defective LPS
3. Defective low-speed radiator fan
The cost to repair, respectively, (assuming DIY) is approximately:
1. $15
2. $30
3. $100
In my case, I had both problems 2 AND 3.
As a caveat, if the paper clip tests does kick in the compressor, do not let the compressor stay engaged for more than the few seconds required to verify that it is running. Doing so with low Freon can damage the compressor; doing so with a defective low-speed radiator fan can cause excessive pressure to buld up in the system loop; doing so with a bad LPS can cause the coil to freeze up and produce other damage.
I am sure that there are professionals out there who can and will correct my explanations and/or logic, and I would welcome any additional information assistance or clarification, but, the above seems to be the mode of operation that eventualy led me to the correct troubleshooting that finally resulted in cold air - and without an outlay of hundreds of dollars (or more).
I hope this helps.
I found this older post and was needing to know where the plug is to check
(You may have a plugged AC system drain. The evaporator and condenser remove moisture from the conditioned air and that water usually drains away while you drive. If the drain is plugged or damaged, the water collects inside the system.)
Thanks
Took the paperclip out, put the connector back on the LPS and started the car again with the air on high and recirculate, still no cold air, but it does continue to surge with the car in park and idle. The fan on the radiator does sound like it is on. We used to get cold air while driving but as of last Saturday nothing. Thanks for continuing to respond and help with this problem.
That fact that you used to get cooling when traveling at high speed would make me believe that the low-speed radiator fan is not operating. Since you are no longer getting any cooling when traveling at high speed, this tends to also point to low Freon.
Use a flashlight to verify low-speed fan operation. The fan should come on as soon as the A/C is turned on.
You may have both a low-Freon issue and a bad low-speed radiator fan issue.
Yes, if you have a set of jumper clips, you can attempt to "hot wire" the low speed fan circuit and test operation.
If you want to pony up the dollars, most shops will charge you around $60 to diagnose your A/C system. If one does verify that the low-speed fan is the issue, then you can proceed with DIY replacement.
I took it to a local Meineke and they said they tested everything and freon and relays were good...they thought it was a compressor going out. Told me to take it to Dodge as we only have 46K miles on the car.
I took a chance with the LPS as jumpering the connector would get us cool air....got the part installed this morning and took a 2 hr round trip..so far so good!
I wouldn't have known this was a common issue had it not been for this post!! Thanks again!
Just a FYI also that santech part seemed a bit heavier than the OEM part...hopefully this one will last the life of the car!
Good luck.
It is more likely that your overheating problem is the cause of your A/C problems.
In order to attempt troubleshooting via the form, we will need more information.
1. By fan replacement, I assume you mean the radiator fan/cowling assembly(?)
2. By A/C cut-off switch, do you mean the Low Pressure Switch (LPS) or the High-Pressure Cut-off?
3. What other parts/compnents have been replaced?
It is possible that the root cause is electrical related and not component/part related. If that is the case, perhaps not all three fans were bad. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) activates the high and low speed radiator fan relays by grounding one side of the relays. Faulty wiring or a PCM issue can prevent this. Does the ar ever travel through coastal salt water?
Are you having this work performed by a private mechanic(s) or a Chysler dealer?
The more information that you can provide, the easier it will be to determine the root cause.
1. With the radiator cool (in the morning or before driving for the first time of the day) and the PT in Park and at idle, turn on the A/C on low blower speed. Use a flashlight to see if the radiator fan is running. It should always run if the A/C is on. If the fan is not running (on Low Speed) it may be defective IF the fuses are good.
2. If the radiator fan is running then return to the LPS paperclip test (see my previous posts). It only takes two minutes to check. The OEM LPS devices seem to be problematic, the replacement switches available from Auto Zone are reported to be better.
If shorting out the contacts in the LPS connector (connector and NOT switch)produces cool air, then you have found the source of your problem (perhaps for the second time).
Hope this helps.
And has anyone ever heard that you cannot use burned CD's int he CD player? The dealer told me to only use store bought CD's when I told them the CD player was not working.
And finally, Only 39,000 miles and the clutch went. The person before me obviously could not drive a stick shift... Or is this a known problem? :mad:
Good luck Karen.
Rich :lemon:
John