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Mercury Mountaineer Electrical Problems
needinhelp
Member Posts: 1
I have a '98 Mountaineer and all three brake lights have gone out. I have checked the fuses and have 12V running threw the pedal switch. However, no voltage at the bulbs. Anyone have any ideas?????
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I was wondering if anyone else has had a problem like this or if they have any ideas.
Thanks
Brandon
please email me at dersch6221992@aim.com
That would deprive other members of valuable information and tends to defeat the purpose of a Forum. Let's keep the discussion here.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Does anyone have any photos?:confuse:
Been like it for years (about six now) for our 99 Mountaineer 4.0 Liter - pretty much as soon as it was off warranty of course.
The green LED segments on the display fade in and out and for the most part now are off most of the time now. So you never know which radio station you are on until they call it out.
Apparently it is a common electrical fault (have heard exact same complaint from otther owners on line) but the dealers of course prettend like they know nothinng about it.
As you may have guessed, after six years with it I have given up on getting it fixed.
In any case I have a new more serious issue - the car is not recognizing my key. So while it opens the electric lock doors and cranks the engine, the "Theft" indicator remains on and so will not allow the engine to start. This used to be intermittent (approx once every 50 starts and was temporary. Now it is permanent!
If other Ford makes are this reliable - no wonder they have lost market share.
I noticed that even with the key in the ignition that the "Theft" light is still flashing just like when you lock the car up. The owners manual says that this indicates it is not recognizing my key and if flashing will not allow the car to start.
This used to be intermittent (approx once every 50 starts and was temporary. Now it is permanent!
Next step for me is to try and find the spare key to see if that one works.
Anyone else have the same issue?
If so, did it mean getting the key re-programmed at the dealer or was there some other fix?
Any suggestions welcome
Any help would be appreciated.
When you start the car the brake lights come on and stay on everytime. I took it to my mechanice and he replaced the sensor and it still stays on...naturally he took it out and did not charge me. He said the answer was to disconnect the lights....WOW I could have figured that one out.....but I would like to have them work the way they were meant to work....anyone know how to handle this???? Thanks in advance for any help anyone can give me you can email me at:
tandtberman@comcast.net :confuse:
Let's keep the discussion here so everyone benefits.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
How does your braking feel? Is it spongy? Does it take a lot of effort to brake?
The other day I was driving down the road and the horn starts going off on its own intermittently. I had to hit the horn to make it shut up. When I got out of the car and had turned the ignition off and had the key in my hand, it started going off on its own again. I found the fuse for the horn/cruise control and took it out so I wouldn't have to deal with that issue and all the stares.
A friend said to look under the driver side plastic molding area for a black reset button. Did not find one. He looked later and didn't see it. My husband found something that said to replace the idle air control valve (?), but that didn't work.
Do you have any suggestions? Please HELP!
I am wondering if the circuit breaker might need replaced. Has anyone had this problem? Not sure if I should pickup a circuit breaker at Advanced Auto....or if I need to take it in to the dealer.
Would appreciate input.
I was having major gauge issues; the gauges would all go to zero, then vibrate, then go back to normal, then do it again. Interior lights would flash, and the radio would turn off and on. Usually would happen in colder weather. One day (Oct.24), the gauges "wigged out". They continuously did the on/off thing for 40 min. They even did it when the car was off and key out of ignition, but not as violently. Dealership just wanted to replace the gauge cluster for about $800.
Drove it to an independent garage, while the gauges continuously going haywire... so he was able to experience the problem. He tried several reprogramming option on the computer, but nothing solved it.
He finally went back to electricity 101 and replaced the main ground from the engine to the firewall. It was corroded. He also cleaned all other grounds in the engine compartment.
The issue was solved. Been driving the car for 2 weeks in all types of weather, and so far, no issue.
$120 - and he put gas in it.
As a bonus, replacing / cleaning the grounds fixed my ambient temp gauge. It would give a very inaccurate reading when the temp was below 40.
Hello, new here. I just recently bought a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer and I was driving it at night two days ago and the dash light and night driving lights and brights went off same time the dash did. Also the lights on the temperature and compass will not light up as well as the radio. This vehicle needs some work! As well as new brakes and struts. If anyone has any ideas PLEASE email me @ [Email removed] Or post on here so everyone can benefit but email is best to get ahold of me.
Sorry, we frown on posting contact info here.
First thing I'd do is a battery load test. Then check all the connections from the battery back to the engine/firewall, etc. Old or weak batteries can cause weird electrical stuff.