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Yup. It's only accessible by using the seek button.
I'm very excited (and also a little sick at the $$ - not a Mercedes cost, I know, but still!). Can't wait though!
Also can't decide between silver and steel grey. It's killing me! Steel grey appeals to me more at first sight, but I think silver would age better. Driving myself batty!
2019 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2019 Ford Mustang GT Premium, 2016 Kia Optima SX, 2013 Ford F-150 King Ranch, 2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6, 2001 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 Classic
The cargo area was one of the "little" things that sold me on the Sante Fe. I carry laptops and other pricey items with me. In addition to the nicely tinted rear and side windows of the limited edition, there is a "hidden" cargo compartment in the deck of the rear cargo area. This recessed area has dividers you can move to adjust to your "hidden cargo". To make it less noticeable, I have the special floor mat made for the cargo area, that complete hides the "hidden cargo" area and the additional storage compartment for the car jack and tools area.
I would invets in the floor mat (if yours does not come with it) rather than the awkard cargo cover/shield that is much more expensive and cumbersome as folks have described.
DC
I'm curious - what do you mean when you say that you think silver would "age better"? If you're thinking that the gray will go out of style a few years down the road and look out of place, fear not. Like silver, white, and black gray (pretty much all shades) never goes out of style. I offer you two final suggestions:
1. Get the color that appeals to you the most; you'll end up with regrets if you second guess yourself.
2. Don't over-think or over-research this! Doing so will drive you crazy and you'll end up not getting a car that you like.
My entire experience with the 07 SF and Hyundai has been excellent. This is my 1st vehicle from them and I am really enjoying it. I am also very curious how it does in the snow (AWD SE Model) since I bought it at the end of last winter and did not have occasion to see how their AWD system does in the real world....The 50/50 lockout really has my attention as well!
I think I was one of the 1st on these boards to have my map lights "fixed" last spring. Took about 45 minutes (mine was the 1st the dealer had ever done (or for that matter even knew of).
No mess, bother or otherwise...Came on and worked great the 1st time and Hyundai was great and arranged everything including parts ordering etc... My service dept really makes it easy for me too! (and of all places...a Lithia dealer!!!)
I think since I have owned it last Feb, there were the map light fix and the outside temp TSB, Now a new window regulator is needed on the driver's side...no biggie though!...Pretty good for a new platform under any one's banner IMHO
To anyone reading this who's on the fence about which mid-sized SUV to buy, I suggest this: Take a Santa Fe for a test drive. If you can, do it when it's dark enough to appreciate the blue interior lighting. Drive it on city streets as well as on the freeway; notice the solid build quality, smooth power train, and absence of road noise. Listen to the XM stereo and notice the sound quality, even with the standard audio system. Pay attention to the details e.g. auto-dimming inside mirror with compass and HomeLink, illuminated visor vanity mirrors, illuminated steering wheel buttons for cruise and the audio system, the forward/backward adjustable headrests (VERY cool), the excellent under-floor storage compartment (5-passenger models), the illuminated front cup holders(!), the standard ASC and traction control, and the list goes on. In the middle of all that, don't forget to pay attention to the overall "feel" of the car. It positively reeks of quality. I consider myself a bonafide "car guy" with a passion for anything automotive. (My other car is a current generation Corvette.) IMO, Hyundai hit a grand slam with the Santa Fe.
Yep - that's what I mean...I worry that the gray will go out of style. As far as trusting my instincts, many times I'll go for one thing and then wish I went for a different one down the line, so I'm trying to make the decision now that I'll be glad with in a few years!
Over-think - that's me. As soon as I settle on the silver, I think I want the gray. As soon as I settle on the gray, I want the silver.
Which (if you know) seems to be more popular with people on this board? I'm such a lemming!
A suggestion...
You are not buying this for anyone else but you...so what if Grey goes out of style (grey never goes out of style...Orange does though! :P . I suggest you buy what you want TOMORROW, never look back and enjoy it! There will always be something new to look at but if you want a car now...buy it now...or you will always be second guessing yourself!
Also, a friend had mentioned they got some factory upholstery protectant sprayed on, where the car company (not Hyundai) agrees to get any stains out, and if they can't, they will re-upholster. This kind of thing has always sounded like a 'gotcha' to me - any opinions?
Thanks again - sorry for my many, many random posts these past couple of weeks!
The 3.3 (as you mentioned) is the Old fashioned (but superior imho) system that uses a disposable replaceable paper element inside a permanent canister that is screwed onto the Engine A VERY SIMPLE STRAIGHT FORWARD NOT TOO MESSY JOB! Yeah, so it is not a screw off, screw on all in one solution! TOP MOUNTING FILTERS HAVE PROS AND CONS BUT IT IS SURE EASIER AS WE GET OLDER! I THINK TOYOTA USES TOP FILTER PLACEMENT TOO THESE DAYS. (NOT THAT I AM IN LOVE WITH THEIR QUALITY OF LATE)
You remove the paper element from the canister (dispose of properly), replace it into the canister with NEW filter element O rings and replace THE now cleaned out re-assembled filter + canister onto the block.
The "newer style" that we have become accustomed to... already has the paper element pre assembled inside the disposable metal (albiet preciously thin ....) canister (like that fram orange thing)... I have actually cut some styles from other autos apart out of curiosity. The jiffy Lube type specials are even lower quality! There are lots of short cuts these manufacturer's will go thru to save a few pennies on your expensive engine's life's blood...oil!
I like the new 3.3L's canister setup much better (My mini cooper had the filter/canister approach too!) there is no hiding poor materials either this way!.
The Fram type"all in one spin ons" are for the most part, Poor quality. (lower # of pleats, poor grade Filter material, cardboard end caps and ** poor quality by- pass valves, smaller and fewer drain holes! (yes i am an Old wrencher!)
RANT COMING!
Second choice after good oem on the newer style for me would be the WIX GOLD sold by NAPA (metal end caps, thicker materials and better quality by pass valves!)!!! Forget about the high priced stuff like Bosch, amsoil, K&N, filters etc...More crap! They just lease the NAME for brand recognition! Most are still champion, fram, puralator etc in sheeps clothing and nice consumer paint jobs
Fram used to be good stuff but is now Honeywell garbage. It is the filter one thinks of most when changing oil...the newer oil formulas are far superior to the old stuff....AND SYNTHETICS ARE NOT WHAT YOU THINK THEY ARE (DINO BASED FOR THE MOST PART!)Amsoil is a better full syn. There are even 2 FULL syn Casteroils...One made here ...Junk, and one from Germany ...still good.
For 3-5000 mi changes , Dino is fine by me (if it meets the basic specs) and for 5000-7500 mi changes so is mobile one (dino stock too) beyond 7500 miles is flirting with trouble IMHO! You are saving how much $$ Per year on a $25,000 auto????
SURPRISE ...THE OLD STANDARD BLUE HONDA FILTER (BY FILTREC) IS NOW A BLUE HONEYWELL IN HONDA CLOTHING...GARBAGE....The oem hyundai is actually decent stuff and is my choice in this type.
With all that said, there are differences in those paper elements AND the all in one designs. In filtering, more surface area usually means better filtering
Just have a look at the sludged up heads on an extended oil service block...SLUDGE. What do they care once the warranty is over. Don't forget even though Hyundai makes substantial $$ on its recommended oil service...their warranty cost in the long run too so why mess with a long interval.
FWIW, after years of DIY oil changes, I am again having the dealer do them for me. iFor the $30 per chg, I get a good quality element and the no sqiggle" room for the dealer, for that long warranty and the possibility of stripped oil plugs and pans etc. I do not love the Bulk grade Pennzoil stuff but today's oil in any form is way different that the old dino formulas of yesteryear. Personally I do not go for that extended oil chg baloney...cheap insurance.
ps FORGET THE FANCY DEALER ADD ONS LIKE PROTECTANT...THEY REALLY GET YA THERE...A COUPLE OF CANS OF 3M SCOTHCHGUARD IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GO NUTS...JUST BUY THE DEALER BASICS They stick it too ya and the extras add up VERY Fast! IMHO...
http://jerrystout.us/sonata/tsb/diy_oil_change.pdf
Anyone have any real photos of the Sage?
23014
- 64 mudguards
22950
125 doc fee
23075
1384.50 tax
15 title
8 plate transfer
24482.50 total
2000 ($1500 rebate plus $500 HMFC Bonus for financing)
22482.50 total due
I guess here in Michigan, you have to pay tax on the total before the rebate. Still, I think this is a good deal (I was never looking for the lowest, lowest price because there's only so much time I can devote to this, I just wanted a fair price from a nice dealership and that seems like it is). I'm exhausted!
Yey, phew, and I'm pooped!
I have always changed out the crush washer (Honda V-Tech also still uses them as well as others I presume) as recommended (they are also old fashioned but are meant to crush for a seal..I have on occasion seen reused ones fatigue. then crack and leak and for the few pennies, why take a chance.), and o rings though (heck they come with the oem filter, why not!)..
Also, BTW: do notice the author's cute little disclaimer.../he is not a tech writer for HMA
and also, Thanks for your input ON THIS TOPIC AS WELL!!!!...Makes these forums valuable for all! input...As I said. It gives folks that have never seen this filter arrangement the general idea and they are NOT official by any means! I give a lot of credit to the guy who took the time and effort to write them up!
There are a lot of things that I have learned to do differently thru the years if only to protect those valuable warranties! (major motivation for me due the the outrageous repair charges gotten by manufacturers these days once the warranty is over) Watched Mini/BMW pull that stuff that to folks too! ALWAYS WONDERED HOW MUCH WE ARE PAYING (IN THE PURCHASE PRICE OF THE AUTO) FOR THAT HUGE WARRANTY...HMA IS SMART TO ONLY LIMIT THE POWERTRAIN PORTION TO THE ORIG OWNER...) I do know a MINI CVT replacement can cost about $7500...and you can't rebuild the "sealed unit" sort of like an expensive ipod! :shades:
As far as oil level goes...I still would do it the old fashioned way (now I let the service guys play with it)...get close and add, get closer and add a little more until the level is correct. Just My way...to old to chg now! It is always easier to add oil than drain an overfill
Of course some old oil is still left in the lines even if you drain it overnight...I would still prefer to drain/fill with warm oil)
Still will let my dealer do it for the price though! I will relax over coffee in the service waiting room thank you When warranties were (and still are with others) 3 yrs...I would do it my way when it was over...but with 10yr/100,000 power train warranty at stake.....NO MAS! Like who ever (in the old days) used a torque wrench on an oil drain plug...It was wrenchuntil it begans to tighten, and add 1/4 turn or so until REASONABLE AND NO LEAKS WERE FOUND! (and the old fashioned crush washer was crushed (couldn't resist...sorry!)
On the other hand, the Mini EXTENDED oil service at 10k and then 15K is a joke...I never let it go past 7500mi period (would you drive 250 RT miles for a free oil chg...NOT ME!I actually stripped out the pan on an Honda Vtech tightening one to their published torque spec! (the wrench was a properly calibrated Craftsman too...should have been a little give room...and I knew better too!It just "felt wrong"
SUGGEST. YOU BRING A DESIGNATED DRIVER, A VALIUM, AND DARK SUNGLASSES! There is no feeling I can remember when it comes to picking up your new auto (AFTER YOU ARE FINISHED SIGNING AND INITIALIALING ALL THAT STUFF!
I guess i am dated though...did not want to stir the pot, but my SF SE is Platinum Sage and I do not even like green! I just did not want white or black and wanted the darker interior! (the Nevada desert is ONE DIRTY PLACE!)I think Hyundai did a great job in picking out its 07 color lineup...something for all. I just wish the cloth came in a darker shade for the interiors...Leather is not a good idea in our climate...I also wanted the heated seats which i had to give up on at the time or get a limited which i did not need the way the dealer's were packaged...oh well...next time i guess!
I give you a lot of credit for stickin it out and would have done anything to watch your salesperson squirming as you went round and round (the sadist in me!)
Let us know after you pick it up...no doubt you will love it!
I'm going to use the financing but pay it off after one month - someone mentioned about gap insurance, etc, etc...am I going to be presented with a bunch more 'do you want this?' during the process that I don't know about yet? Can I turn everything down since I'm going to pay it off in a month?
What's this I'm reading about an extended warranty? Is this just the stuff like windshield/tires, or something more?
Thanks!
I do know one thing, if you buy any insurance from a dealer, you will be raped for sure! Most states give you a temp registration good for a period of time....THIS IS NOT A DEALER GIFT EITHER! (and it must have a current smog in most states as well
DO NOT LET THEM SLIP ANY MORE CHARGES IN ON YOU!!!! PERIOD! IT IS A LITTLE LATE TO BE CONSIDERING EXTENDED WARRANTYS...STRICTLY PERSONAL TASTE...I JUST SAY NO...BIG PROFIT ITEM FOR THEM.EACH TO THEIR OWN.WINDSHIELDS ARE USUALLY COVERED BY YOUR OWN COMPREHENSIVE (if at all) AND NORMAL WEAR ITEMS ARE USUALLY NOT COVERED AT ALL (BATTERY ETC...TIRES HAVE THEIR OWN CRUMMY PRO RATA WARRANTY FROM THE MAKER)
remember the included roadside assistance program...the phone number is on a decal on the rear passenger window....
This should be VERY easy
1) SIGN ALL THE GARBAGE AFTER INSPECTING AND POSSIBLY FINAL DRIVING THE CAR (look for small dings/scratches/touch up marks.....CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE JACK, TOOLS (IF ANY), SPARE TIRE ETC ARE ALL THERE!!!. Don't laugh...salesmen swipe stuff off lot cars all the time to complete their own sale! Mine had a leaky (let water in) tail light. The salesman had the service guy change it with a good one from a lot car on the spot so I completed the deal then!!
ANYTHING MISSING OR JUST NOT RIGHT...MAKE THEM SIGN IT ON A due bill!) no verbals....
If your auto locks are not set and you want them set...make them put it on a due bill to be done at first oil chg...OR CALL THEM NOW TO HAVE THEM SET THEM...IF YOU WISH.
2) GIVE THEM YOUR $$
3) DRIVE THAT PUPPY HOME!
GOOD LUCK TOMORROW.
One last thing...make sure they check/top off ALL fluid levels...FREE full tank of gas, and that the tires are 30lbs COLD!!! (They usually have them overinflated at the lot!
Still many friends doubt my decision to go for a Korean car but this is a decision after more than one year of research, comparison, and test drives. I hope my Santa Fe won't let me down.
Here's some financing tips. Make sure there is no penalty for paying the loan off early. Also given you are planning to pay it off right off the bat, try to make sure your financing involves simple interest as opposed to amortorized interest (where the interest is primarly paid up front, then the principal).
I'm picking mine up tonight!
1.5 hours to pick up my Santa Fe. I'll let you know how I love or hate it. :shades:
RELIABILITY...WHERE IS THAT MADE???
Your advice is highly appreciated.