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Comments
I have a problem that sometimes I get in the car, turn the ignition, the ignition lights are on, power going through circuits But wont turn over. Mainly does it when its warm, leave for 15 minutes then it will start.
Does anyone know how to fix this problem??
He waited one minute and started it up, drove home 5 miles.
If I had a job I would buy a new car.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
michel
Odd that for a few days the Power Locks had been acting funny--sometimes locking all 4 doors, sometimes only 1, sometimes 2, etc. Obviously electrical but not obvious fix. IF anyone can speak to this or to vtcycle's please do. :confuse:
..
Any thoughts on how I can try to reset the auto start? I have hard time believing this is problem in dash.
Thanks
TIA
RT
Did not drive for 3 weeks. Dome light might have been on. The battery was drained completely. Jump-start worked twice. The first time I drove around 100 miles - still it would start with a lot of difficulty.
The second time I drove 7 miles(20 mins) and turned it off in the shopping lot of a parking lot. Came back and tried to start - the dashboard lights came on, but the car won't start. My friend tried the ignition too many times and the dash lights dimmed too. Tried jump-start: got a few strong sparks when the negative terminal was being connected to metal part on the engine. The headlights shone bright but the car won't start. Dash lights did not turn on. Next time I tried to jump-start no lights go on - neither the ones on dashboard nor the headlights. It's been dead since then. Another thing to add - the brake became really hard after this jump-start attempt.
I suspected the battery was absolutely bad and replaced it. But it still is completely dead after connecting the new battery too. No clicking sound, no lights. Could you point me in the right direction? do you think it would be an electrical/fuse problem? Or do you guys reckon there might be something else wrong?
If the car will not start and the battery checks good, more than likely it's the starter.
Sometimes you might get one "click" but no start. Then it might start on the next try.
I've heard it called the "corolla click". Over time the contacts wear out in these starters and you can have the starter replaced or get a replacement contact set. Starter replacement is the more costly option. The contact replacement is less expensive, but in both cases the starter has to be removed.
Cheers,
Joe.
I'm just starting to look at this on my car. The first thing I noticed was that the power windows wouldn't go after I started the car. I thought maybe a wiring problem somewhere, since the front passenger door sometimes doesn't work.
Next, I have to get going. The gear shift won't get out of park.
Next I look at what is not right electrically. The fan motor won't go (dash) and the wiper motor won't go.
There is in the main fusebox one socket for a 50A fuse called "FL ABS" next to one called "FL ALT" (100A) that is missing, or maybe it originated that way.
The horn works. The headlights work. The blinkers do not work. I think I'm o=unable to move with the gear-shift issue!
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks, Mark
Symptom: When rolling down express power window gets to bottom, slight shudder from the engine when window motor coming to a stop (draws a bit more current before it stops) or when the battery was low at one point..., stepping on brakes causes a shudder (shudders are when waiting at red traffic lights durng idle)
My battery dosent hold up for two weeks during Sandy superstorm when car was not used. I installed dash mounted solar panel to trickle charge battery every day (150mils- very little but to compensate) I think something is draining the battery.
Suggestions for most likely culprits?? The solar cell was a quick fix (connected direct to battery)
Installation of the HID lights ccaused some wire heating just under the steering wheel so I uninstalled them, but electrical drains are usually shorts, not past heated wires.
Or maybe the alternator isnt bad but going? Rolling down power auto express window shouldnt
have any affect on idle or make even a slight shudder when at light....
I did remove the trunk light, but wondering if there are any other culprits? The security system
does keep a security code on all the time, but I popped the led.
mecker@peoplepc.com
I have to disconnect the battery to get them to go off. What part could short out or get stuck in the on position? I don't think it has anything to do with the light switch itself.
mistaken) that my lights normally would turn off automatically after a
period of time if I forgot and left them off.
I can't remember if that is the case however.
I'm tested the ones for the headlamps and when pulled they make those go out. There are some fuses labeled "fog" and "tail light" and when pulled they don't make the lights in the front side go out and tail light doesn't make the light in the back go out?
I noticed my dashboard lights, tail lights, license plate lights and the side headlights were not coming on when I drove at night. I tried a couple if things like checking the fuse box and changing out the multifunctional switch out and the problem still persists. I'm totally clueless where to look next. If you can give me a step by step procedure on how to tackle this problem that would be amazing-- maybe even a video?
Thanks!
I just replaced the starter and the battery on my 2003 Toyota Corolla. When I attempted to start it, there was a pop, then it lost all electrical power. I have checked every fuse, and they are all good. Is there an in-line fuse somewhere going to the power distribution box?