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Would recommend opening complaint with BBB. I have just submitted one as well. I am disgusted that I pay for a car and don't even feel safe having my wife/children ride in it.
Would recommend opening complaint with BBB. I have just submitted one as well. I am disgusted that I pay for a car and don't even feel safe having my wife/children ride in it.
Of course I also have had a bit of steering wheel shimmy since day one at various highway speeds (three road force balances minimized it). Add this to the stupid wiper design that pulls water back onto the left side of the windshield in heavy rain, the annoyingly low front 'chin', and the wimpy headlight low beams (fixed by putting in Phillips Extreme bulbs - DOT legal BTW). It remains to be seen what I will buy for the next car in two or three more years.
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2008 Accord EXL-V6 Navi
If this trouble ever truly gets under my skin, it will either be trade in time, or I will get with a local shop who actually has an interest in challenging themselves (while collecting good money) to figure it out. Finding someone who will methodically work through what needs done is the trouble. All the dealers are focused on the repair manual times, and always seem to say 'normal road noise and vibration' after balancing the wheels. It doesn't help that you have a 'service writer' to convert customerese into technicianese - nothing like the usual 'lost in translation'.
I have not had a chance to compare the before and after yet, due to weather and adding a load for the return trip. I think there is still some brake pulsation, but I need to take more time with it. It sits in the garage during the week while I drive a company van.
On all my other cars in the past (eleven other new cars since 1988) I have not had to have any rotors turned, except in conjunction with brake pad replacement. Though the 1990 Dodge Spirit ES used up front pads every 25K. My 1993 Accord EX (5sp) had OE tires and brakes at over 50k when I traded it (still lots left).
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The best warranty is one that is not needed.
I don't know if it's the way the 8th gen Accord is or my heater has a problem?
Can you share your feeling, it's hot or just warm?
When I was getting an oil change at the dealer I told the service manager about my remote issue's and she took the remote and pushed the unlock button and looked for a little red light on the remote to light up. Well it would like up only every 3 or 4 pushes. She said it needed a new battery. I told her that the car is only 16 months old and this was the spare key. She said that she has been replacing a ton of these batteries lately so they replaced both remote batteries under warranty. I wished they would of taken responsibility to fix my rear brakes under warranty :sick:
to which you replied
"Good luck to you and God bless"
I did what Andy suggested and bought an american car. I had alot of luck with Honda's over the years but think that all changed around 2008. This reminds me of the 80s when GM was building junk and you had the hard core GM lovers trying to justify chevettes, the 8/6/4 engine (kind of like the VCM) and the great diesel conversion engine. It was just bad engineering and cheap materials and poor workmanship. I would take you 94 Accord any day but you can keep the new one.
It's also possible that you have started using a winter version of the washer fluid that has methyl alcohol added (to prevent freezing), which gives it that distinctive smell.
As long as there are no rainwater leaks into the cabin, I would say it is normal.
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Honda/Accord/2008/brakes/premature_brake_wear.shtml-
There are no other make/model/year that have close to that many complaints. Go to the site if you have not done so.
There is a class action law suit pending:
http://www.girardgibbs.com/
Search the site for 2008 Honda Accord.
Keep your recept, I expect Honda will fix the problem if enough voices are heard.
The new part number for the rear pad set is 43022-TA0-A51, which replaces the original pad set 43022-TA0-A00.
So the dealership didn't tell you about the pads being changed/different? :confuse: Doesn't sound like an honest dealership, to me. I guess, as long as the new pads are an improvement, it's not a big deal.
To me, it's like the designers and the engineers weren't on the same page. The engineers decided that the Accord's rear brakes were going to do more of the braking than the front, which is not typical. But the designers kept the old school of thought and made the front brakes the large beefy ones and the rear brakes small. They should have either reversed it or made the rear brakes the same size as the front.
And I think that the rotors are too thin for a car this heavy. The rotors on my '96 Camry feel about twice as thick as the Accords. My wife's '98 Saturn had thin rotors like the Accord's and she was constantly having warping problems.
I've got 20k on my 2008 Accord right now and I'll probably have to change the rear pads at the next tire rotation. There's still plenty of pad on the front. Oh, and my right rear rotor is warped slightly.
TSB
Copied here:
April 11, 2009
09-010
Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED
Engine Rattles at Cold Start-Up
(Supersedes 09-010, dated February 11, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
REVISION SUMMARY
Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, the
Symptom Code has changed.
SYMPTOM
At cold start-up, the engine rattles loudly for about
2 seconds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The VTC (variable timing control) actuator is faulty.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
2008 Accord L4 2/4-Door – ALL
2009 Accord L4 2-Door –
From VIN 1HGCS1...9A000001 thru
1HGCS1...9A004953
2009 Accord L4 4-Door –
From VIN 1HGCP2...9A000001 thru
1HGCP2...9A029528
From VIN JHMCP2...9C000001 thru
JHMCP2...9C010096
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the VTC actuator.
PARTS INFORMATION
VTC Actuator: P/N 14310-R44-A01, H/C 8665374
VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve O-Ring:
P/N 15832-RAA-A01, H/C 7131873
Chain Case O-Ring:
P/N 91302-PNA-004, H/C 6753560
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Hondabond HT Liquid Silicone Gasket
P/N 08718-0004, H/C 8263386
(One tube repairs two vehicles.)
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Operation Number: 110153
Flat Rate Time: 4.0 hours
Failed Part: P/N 14310-R44-A01
H/C 8665374
Defect Code: 03214
Symptom Code: 04201
Template ID: 09-010A
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty
expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by
the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone
Office. You must request consideration, and get a
decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
NOTE: If you’re reading this service bulletin on ISIS
and your computer has sound, click on the picture to
hear an example of the engine rattle.
1. Allow the oil to drain from the VTC system by not
starting the engine for at least 6 hours.
2. Start the cold engine, and immediately listen for a
loud rattle:
Do you hear a loud rattle that lasts about
2 seconds?
Yes - Go to REPAIR
:lemon:
I wish Apple would make a car.
After owning a Honda for 32 years, the experience with Hyundai has been an eye opener for us. Plus, the dealer has been excellent. Obviously, this is only one statistical sample and we still love our Accord, but Honda and Toyota need to keep an eye on their rear view mirrors!
This is my third Accord (1993,1995,2008), mother has a 1999. The '99 v6 needed a cracked cyl head replaced at about 80k mi - never was overheated, either. Now at 108K.
Never had power mirrors fail, but should be easy enough to fix, as they are not intermittently broken . Have the shimmy/shake in the 08 ex-lv6 navi though. It will most likely stay that way, too.
Have owned a new car every three or fewer years. From rain water leaks (three) to incompetent dealers (basically every car that had something difficult to diagnose and fix, was still that way when traded in for a different make).
For those who have these tires, your feedback/opinion would be highly appreciated. I am really thinking about getting new tires even though I can still go another 10k miles with these tires. Thanks.
I'm a little dissapointed with my 08 EX-L coupe 4cyl as well. . . 15K now, rear brakes at 5mm, all 4 tires are 8mm, 23mpg lifetime avg with about 60/40 hwy/city plus my butt will go to sleep on a fairly long ride. . .
What I am not dissapointed with is the power this 4 banger has. . . It just keeps running stronger where even on a dry road when you floor it in a lower gear the traction light flickers around 6,000rpm. . . Runs out of steam around 80 but pulls much harder than expected. . . much harder. . . Kinda makes the 23mpg a little easier to swallow. . .
An alternative: Use some Dynamat (or equivalent) under the rear seat, under the carpets, and in the trunk. Google Dynamat and you will discover it is an EXCELLENT sound/noise insulator, made specifically for automotive applications. I bought a pile of it to quiet down our excessively noist 2006 Element, where it worked pretty well. Our new (less than a week old) 2010 Accord EX-L V6 Sedan was really noisy, mostly road/tire noise. I had about 1/3-1/2 of the Dynamat left in the box, and yesterday pulled out the rear seat bottom and the trunk stuff in the Accord and proceeded to stick Dynamat everywhere I could. One thing I noticed is that Honda has done a horrible job of insulating, IMHO. A few blobs of some wierd foamy stuff globbed on here & there. Still lots and lots of exposed sheet metal (which generates/amplifies the noise). Today, the car was noticeably quieter when we took it out. However, I ran out of Dynamat, so if it's still noisy on the freeway, I will likely have to buy more and get creative about where I stick it. This isn't rocket science, but it is costly, time consuming and requires the ability to contort yourself into a variety of uncomfortable positions as you install it.
Good luck!
I believe what we're seeing is the Americanization of the Japanese car makers, meaning that Japanese cars that are made in America are more and more starting to resemble American cars when it comes to poor quality control and more importantly, excessive COST CUTTING. The problems we are seeing with our Hondas (by no means are these Honda-specific though) are primarily due to these two items. Unfortunate for us.
Perhaps it's just the nature of the auto industry in today's economic environment, but I first noticed the decline in 1995, when I bought a new Toyota Tacoma pickup that was so bad Toyota finally took it back after two months and gave me a different vehicle instead. Looks like the days of thoroughly testing and improving vehicles before they hit the market are gone forever and the manufacturers now prefer to let the consumer do the testing (the Microsoft model). A good reason to not buy the first year's production of any new model.
Good news!! Yes, the road noise WAS reduced a bit, but I may order some additional Dynamat (I ran out) and proceed to finish the trunk and maybe do under the carpets too.
My transportation to pick up my car after work was a Buick Lacrosse 2010 AWD with pretty much all the bells and whistles @ an out the door cost of close to $40,000. I drove the 10 miles or so to the dealership and was left with mixed impressions. Acceleration was acceptable at best. While the car seems even bigger from the outside then the Accord, it seemed a tighter fit inside. Not compact car tight but not as roomy as the Accord. Seats seemed a tad more comfortable but visibility fore and aft were much worse then the Accord. For a GM product the ride seemed tight and well controlled with none of that boaty-floating over the road sense I've always felt from their vehicles. Steering was better weighted then most of the overly assisted feeling I remember from most GM vehicles. Bottom line, @ near $13,000 more then I paid for my Accord I felt most of that money went to all the electronic gadgetry and the vehicle dynamics while a big improvement over former GM vehicles still fell somewhat short of the Accord.
All serviced up and ready to hit the road in week for a 10 day 3,000 mile+ plus trip. We'll see what my impressions of the Accord will be after living in her and thrashing her up and down the east coast.
Happy motoring to all!
I now have 43,000 on my 08 accord V6 and the oil consumption has increased to 2-Qt's every 4000 miles. Honda America continues to state that this is normal for my vehicle. I have a case with BBB and im hopping they can help resolve the situation. Where are you at with your 08?
Any input would be much appreciated.thanks
Steve
I have 54K on my 08 Accord Coupe V6 AT, with my new short block and heads at 24k I am going 4500miles using less than 1/2 qt. I drive spirited and cruise at 78mph for my daily run to San Jose. The first 10K miles on the new short block I was using about 1 qt at 3500miles than decreased to current over time. I also switched to Mobil 1 5-20w at about 15K miles as well.
Honda will not help you until you get to 1qt per 1000 miles. I noticed that my prior oil consumption went up as the oil aged and I drove it hard by keepin it in 3 and 5000 rpm for 5 miles. If you try that and see what it does on your dip stick. You should see movement on the dip stick after doing that a few times. Wipe out your exhaust ports before and after you should see black oil residue. I checked my oil everyday during the time I had issues which helped me reach the conclusion. Honda did for sure have some of these engines go out of factory missing one oil ring on one cylinder but will not admit it. Honda dealer can scope into the cylinders and see what is going on in my case they saw scoring and a oil fouled head on that hole.
Keep at them or go to a new dealer
Roger
Do you know where I can obtain a copy of this Honda internal service bulletin that states- 1qt. per 1000 miles is acceptable?
Any solutions ?
There are places that can repair your wheels, or you can go aftermarket for cheaper.
David