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The mileage is low for such a failure, but if one of the boots is torn, likely it got dirt and grit in it to chew it up early.
Here's some info from the web:
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/tires_wheels/ques111_0.html
I took it into the dealer on Randall Road in Algonquin, IL. Note that when I took it to the dealer I had had the vehicle only 3000 miles, so it was ready for its first oil change. They said the oil was "sludgy" and blamed it on the dealer where I purchased (Honda of Schaumburg IL), changed the oil and said "come back if it doesn't improve in 1000 miles".
I think I saw someone mention that there's a service bulletin for the engine noise at startup, but I can't locate it. Appreciate any help.
© 2009 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. – All Rights Reserved ATB 41171-41384 (0904) 1 of 2
CUSTOMER INFORMATION: The information in this bulletin is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment,
and training to correctly and safely maintain your vehicle. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-it-yourselfers,” and you should not assume
this bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle has the condition described. To determine whether this information applies, contact an
authorized Honda automobile dealer.
April 11, 2009
09-010
Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED
Engine Rattles at Cold Start-Up
(Supersedes 09-010, dated February 11, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
REVISION SUMMARY
Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, the
Symptom Code has changed.
SYMPTOM
At cold start-up, the engine rattles loudly for about
2 seconds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The VTC (variable timing control) actuator is faulty.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
2008 Accord L4 2/4-Door – ALL
2009 Accord L4 2-Door –
From VIN 1HGCS1...9A000001 thru
1HGCS1...9A004953
2009 Accord L4 4-Door –
From VIN 1HGCP2...9A000001 thru
1HGCP2...9A029528
From VIN JHMCP2...9C000001 thru
JHMCP2...9C010096
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the VTC actuator.
PARTS INFORMATION
VTC Actuator: P/N 14310-R44-A01, H/C 8665374
VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve O-Ring:
P/N 15832-RAA-A01, H/C 7131873
Chain Case O-Ring:
P/N 91302-PNA-004, H/C 6753560
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Hondabond HT Liquid Silicone Gasket
P/N 08718-0004, H/C 8263386
(One tube repairs two vehicles.)
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Operation Number: 110153
Flat Rate Time: 4.0 hours
Failed Part: P/N 14310-R44-A01
H/C 8665374
Defect Code: 03214
Symptom Code: 04201
Template ID: 09-010A
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty
expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by
the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone
Office. You must request consideration, and get a
decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
NOTE: If you’re reading this service bulletin on ISIS
and your computer has sound, click on the picture to
hear an example of the engine rattle.
1. Allow the oil to drain from the VTC system by not
starting the engine for at least 6 hours.
2. Start the cold engine, and immediately listen for a
loud rattle:
Do you hear a loud rattle that lasts about
2 seconds?
Yes - Go to REPAIR
Yhanks
The dealer wanted $169 to replace the pads. My plan is to have the pads replaced with Wagner ceramic pads by a private shop and then request reimbursement from Honda Customer Service. The private shop can replace the pads (and cut the rotors) for less than the dealership. Any thoughts?
that TSB helped me understand the issue... my '08 EX L 4 cyl was repaired yesterday under the powertrain warranty. Car runs much smoother and with more power now. my car has 32k and is 37 1/2 "old".
replaced rear brake pads too. dealer said there was no help with cost - bc car is outside of 3yrs/36k miles. called Honda Customer Svc and gave details; followup call and claims decision will come in 3 days.... put honda pads on, my svc writer claimed pads have been "improved" by honda.... we'll all see...... i cant believe that even one honda brake pad would have to be replaced before 55k. this is my third or fourth honda....
As it stands now, I'm out about $160 to replace the pads, which is probably at least about $50 less than if I had the dealership do it ($169 plus tax, plus cut rotors). I sent in a fax to Honda Customer Service requesting reimursement, which stated I am aware of the class action, and that this is an on-going problem in to the 2010 model year. If no response, I'll threaten small claims court, and let them know I was contact by the law firm that handled the 08 & 09 rear brake settlement.
Thank you for the replies and feedback.
With the temperature set at 80 in the front, the rear vent still blows cooler air.
Has anyone experienced this.
We brought the car in for service and they told us that we need to make sure that the recirculating button is set to internal only. This still didn't help and I am sure I will be back at the service counter.
Any advice.
Thanks
However, from what I understand, the floor vents and defrost vents should be the primary carriers of warm air (even the owner's manual mentions this). Heat rises, so the floor vents are the best method when heating the interior, and the defrost vents are meant to clear the windows of ice/fog. So I've always exclusively used the floor vents and defrost settings for the heater. And in addition to the rear console vents, the Accord still uses rear heating ducts under the front seats that are designed to route warm air to the aft portion of the cabin.
My only guess is that maybe the rear vents weren't meant to carry warmer air and that all of the tubing running from the ventilation system to the rear console vents absorbs some of the heat en route to the back seat. But I don't know. Like I said, I've always used the floor heater ducts to warm the back seat.
Besides, there couldn't be a problem with the rear ventilation as it doesn't use any extra components to re-cool or re-heat the air for the back seat passengers. It's just a pair of tubes routing air from the blower to the rear vents through the center console. As long as the vents carry cool air effectively, that's all that really matters in my opinion. Just use the floor ducts for heat.
The rear vents have always just been a novelty to me, anyway. Even with the fan on full blast with Max A/C on, the airflow back there is mediocre at best. Still, I guess it's better than nothing for the rear passengers on really hot days.
Thanks for the feedback. It does happen once in a while and noise is negligible. May be, it needs cold weather to see the issue more often.
But for last 2 days, this noise becomes more audible and vibrations sent through steering. I started even hearing rattles some where inside the car. It does not happen continuously when at stop signal. Car keeps switching ac system on and off. It happens during those state changes. Any one observed this behavioral and get it fixed from Honda.
The clutching in an out of the ac is normal on most cars, my 06 subaru in mild weather would clutch in and out every ten seconds or so sitting in a drive thru with the ac on a fairly low fan setting (auto climate control). And beside the ac clutch, they start the electric engine cooling fan at the same time.
Only cars where the ac doesn't clutch in and out when on are ones that have a variable displacement compressor (my 2000 BMW did ).
It really sounds like the idle speed of your car is right on the edge, with the ac on and if an automatic transmission vehicle - they idle them really low. If low enough you start to get the vibrations due to the engine getting close to stall speed. If you add just a touch of fuel with the accelerator while still on the brake, i bet it smooths out - indicating that due to emissions, etc it is just a very low idle speed. If you have a lot of miles on the car, sometimes cleaning the air bypass with carb cleaner helps. Had to do this every so ofton on a 97 v6 dodge spirit I owned.
I have been behind a honda passport in the city, watching the exhaust pipe at the back shaking badly when stopped for a red light, which tells me the engine was generating a lot of vibes.
Some cars it is the nature of the beast, for some slight shaking once in awhile, but if often, I would think either computer update, new air filter, clean idle bypass. Try dumping the computer memory and let it learn it's idle again after new air filter - had to do this on ford escort to get idle right after new air filter. Removed battery power for a bit, then reconnected, started, and held engine rpm's at 4k for bit.
My 08 EX-L V6 accord doesn't have have this issue (yet)...
However, I've noticed that, even with the bass and/or the subwoofer settings boosted, there does not seem to be a very strong bass beat to the audio (CD) playback, as well as that adjustments to these settings seem to have only a minimal effect on the low range sound.
Is this normal? I believe the radio may be less wattage than the one in my '04 Accord (also a V-6 EX-L 6 spd.), but it seems kinda gutless to me. I expected more from a 260 watt system.
Any thoughts before I go back to the dealer with it?
Thanks!
-FS :shades:
Speakers have a few parts that flex (suspension spider, cone, front suspension surround) and they do need to break in a little from use. You may just need to wait a bit for things to loosen up.
Mrbill
I’m now driving a 2010 EX-L V6 and these traits still hold true but there does seem to be somewhat less bass with this vehicle. From this small sampling I can’t wholeheartedly say that there are variations from one car to another but, but personally that has been my experience.
Thanks for the feedback. I am observing the behavior. It does not happen that loud always though. I will try to record it when it is happening again.
I to experienced a disparity in the strength of the playback in my '04 Accord - the CD and XM channels displayed similar levels of response to volume and tone settings, but switch to the FM radio after listening to a CD or XM song at louder volume and you could get blown out of your seat.
As a musician too, I'm well aware that different songs have different recording levels and that, when I've used the automatic sound leveling function on my computer software to burn a disc on my own for the car, that can also impact the sound quality, making some songs stronger or weaker than others.
I guess we'll just wait and see. I'm still falling in love with the damn car anyway!
-FS
Is this "normal" mileage for this car? Should I expect more improvement with additional break-in time? I never expected to see the EPA 26 mpg highway rating in the real world, but 24-25 mpg seemed reasonable, or am I wrong?
-FS
Beware of "increase your MPG!!" gadgets on eBay.
And thanks for the tip Mr. S. but you and the others on these boards have educated me well about the false promises made by "increase your mpg" toys. :-)
-FS
You can try lower-friction tires and synthetic oil, + waiting until you are completely through the break-in period. It's possible all these things combined could squeeze you out another 10%.
Earlier I said this car is geared shorter than my last one, but as I look at it, I think I may have been wrong. With my old car, at 80 mph, I was at 3000 rpm. With this car, at 80 mph, I'm at about 2600 rpm. Moreover, I can tool around at 40 mph on a flat roadway in 5th gear and be just under 2000 rpm.
On the plus side - the thing has monster torque and awesome acceleration, both of which I'd be willing to trim just a little for some better fuel economy.
I guess that, as Steven Wright says, "You can't have everything - where would you put it all...?"
Thanks for your feedback. :-)
-FS
Again - thanks!
-FS
Also I think I have developed other driving habits that help and that are now almost unconscious---like rolling to a stop so that I don't have to stop completely before a light change or a merge. Having to start over from a dead stop is a gas-waster. Also timing lane changes, and not downshifting uselessly, like for braking on the straight and level.
I was not so lucky, my '10 Accord start screeching at around 30k, and I had to change the pads (plus doing rotors) at 40K. Now, comparing with others experience, maybe it does look that the mileage is higher, but I have to say that the car is used 97% on hway, commuting to work, good drive , no traffic, I am very light on brakes, so maybe this is the reason that held me for so long.
Even the mechanic at the dealer service agreed that changing the rear pads at 40k it is not acceptable, and never did happen to me with my two prior cars (not Hondas!).
But for American Honda, which I called next day after I shoved out 400$, it is business as usual. The "supervisor" even tried to blame the problem on my driving habits !!!, mileage , etc. and did not acknowledge that they continue to mislead and provide sub par quality.
One thing is sure, I can NOT TRUST Honda for the "reliability" and quality that they pledge in advertisements.
Maybe a better logo for next campaign should be:
" You can fool ONE PERSON ALL THE TIME,
or you can fool ALL PEOPLE ONE TIME,
but you CAN NOT FOOL ALL PEOPLE ALL THE TIME".
I had one car that sounded like it was taking a dribble into the toilet shortly after shut off (likely oil draining back on top of what was in the pan).
However, I have owned a 90 Dodge Spirit ES V6 (4 wheel disc brakes on that trim level) that would use up front brakes in less than 30K consistently over it's life in the family (three brake jobs on the front in less than 80K). I realize that it's rear brakes in this case.
Right now I have slightly more than 28K on the 08 Accord Sedan V6 EX-L Navi, and it's getting the annual PA inspection in a week, so we'll see how the brakes are doing. I was told at last years inspection they were fine, both inside and outside pads (dealer knew of the issue, and checked to see if they could sell me a brake job...) - instead they pushed a cabin air filter replacement.
Eh - it's a wear item, and while 30K is low, it's within norms depending on the car and whose driving - at least it was for the 'American' cars of a not too long ago time.
Heck, the tires on this Accord look to be wearing at a rate where they will need replaced around 40K - while the much older 93 Accord had tons of tread at 50K yet.
Nickel ($500) and Dime ($1000) - that's the updated standard, it seems.