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You may start there - is the engine light on? Engine codes are a good place to start (even if the engine light is not on, have the dealer read the computer so all bases are covered...)
Just had annual PA inspection at 28K. Original rear brake pads deemed OK with 7 remaining. Had the tsd for the package shelf rattle done.
As of tomorrow the 3/36 warranty is over - on to the power train only part.
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Regarding assembly people drunk on Saki - I lived in Columbus OH a short time, during which I bought my 08 Accord, and Marysville OH where they assemble them is only 30 or so mins from there. I suspect beer drinking is more likely.
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My personal scorecard (new cars only), problem child = issues dealer could not fix successfully, or repeats of same issue again:
Brand - Total Number owned - Number of which were problem childs
Dodge - 2 - 2
Chevrolet Truck - 1 - 1
Ford Truck - 1 - 0
Ford car - 2 - 0
Honda - 3 - 0
BMW - 1 - 0
Toyota Truck - 1 - 0
Subaru - 1 - 0
I miss the 2002 Toyota Tundra Limited at times - that was a Lexus like interior and ride, high revving all aluminum V8 - most like a car. Not the large barge they make now. All these have been garage kept, but driven in Mid-Atlantic winters - I doubt this Tundra would ever have developed the corrosion issue with the frame.
http://mordor.rutgers.edu/accord/tsb/08-09%20rear%20shelf%20rattle%20on%20rough%- 20roads%2008-083.pdf
Basically, on certain sharp pavement humps, you would hear a low rattle in the back. Certain bass notes will show it, but that was rare for the music I play.
I like my car a lot - but I miss my 2004 EX-L Coupe. It got better mileage (old car averaged 27 mpg, new car is averaging 24 on same commute) and Honda has "cheaped out" on a couple of things in the new car (solid rear seat instead of split rear seat, no door sill plastic covers, only 1/2 the front storage binnacle has a door to cover what's inside, etc.). In fairness, they did also add a few things (one-touch up/down on both windows and sunroof, voice-activated bluetooth, & fog-lamps). Perhaps the most annoying thing is that the inside of the sunglass case only has rubber on the bottom and not on the rear vertical flange (unlike the same set-up in my wife's '07 Odyssey) and so my glasses rattle whenever they're placed inside, rendering it largely useless to me. I plan to glue a piece inside one of these days.
Guess ya' never appreciate what ya' had 'til ya' ain't got it no more. ;-)
-FS
The shop also really pushed the air filter change. I'm following Honda's recommendation on this and I don't drive in dusty environments.
http://ezinearticles.com/?Car-Repair-Prices:-Fuel-Injection-Services,-Are-They-W- orth-It?&id=300855
http://www.bgprod.com/home.html
Have a prosperous day.
I am having my next oil change done at the Dealer just so they can do their free inspection thing so the wear on the new rear pads after about 5K miles can be properly documented. We'll see if using ceramic aftermarket pads cures the problem or not.
And I generally expect one set of front and rear pads during a 3-year lease term, so there is also normal wear and tear to consider. No sense in getting gready.
I really hope that SOON a Class Action lawsuit will be in place even for ALL 2010 owners...
NOW...if over time the consumption would get lower and lower at each oil change, THEN I'd be on the same page with you. But if it is a constant 1 quart per 6000 miles, then I'm with Honda on this one---it is perfectly normal. I have rebuilt many engines for many years, and this is the case.
In fact, it's probably *good* for the engine to throw a few drops of oil every day into the upper combustion area.
You would be *shocked* to learn Honda's official policy on how much consumption is "normal". It's well below 6,000 miles per quart.
I find that the level on the hatched side of the dipstick is at the bottom of the hatching and a bit higher on the back side of the dip stick. This seems low to me since I am assuming that the level should be within the range of the hatching. I made the measurements very carefully, making sure the dip stick was clean and that the measurement was taken within the 30 second time range allowed.
Yet Dealer claims that measurement is exactly where it should be.
Would appreciate some expert comment on whether I should add some transmission fluid.
The mechanic i use when i need brakes is very honest. Most people who own Hondas know about him. Adout 90% of his work is on Hondas.
When he looked at mine he said that there was a modification of some sort that he installs. It's just not a straight replacement. It's suppost to keep the pads away from the rotors better. That's about all i know. I cant believe that Honda continues to have brake issues. It's been an ongoing problem for years. I have been lucky. Maybe because my last two Hondas have been v6's having different pads/rotors/calibers??? I don't know.
Also, a mechanic is just that. Being human beings they are not always right. I had a Honda dealership tell me one time i had a bad instrument cluster when it was actually a bad alternator on my 99 Honda.
I must point out that I trade cars every 3-4 years or whenever my car's mileage reaches 85000 miles. And yes, I purchase a new car and it has less than 5 miles on it.
In this day of oil problems, I am concerned with too many people letting the dealerships con their customers into believing the maintenance minder doesn't work. I've been told by some dealerships that my warranty would void itself if I didn't change the oil every 3000 miles. That is bs too. All you're doing by changing your oil every 3000 miles is helping the dealerships and oil change businesses stay in business.
My minder read 60%. I'm on my third oil change now at 3,800 miles and I'm down 3/4 of a qt of oil and my minder reads 60%. You have to check the oil level, if you go by the minder you'll destroy your engine.
The oil minder advises you when to change your oil assuming you are not using any. If you use some oil between changes then top it up. The oil minder has nothing to do with the oil level.
Why is your engine using so much oil?
Only thing I have found is to try and avoid rapidly flipping xm channels. Let each one stabilize and play for a few seconds, as I found when channel surfing, if I happened to change the channel when it was going in and out due to reception issues, the complete outage seemed more common.
When it quits, you get the station and song information, but no audio. And the only way to fix it is to turn off the ignition. I read in a review about a Ford having similar issues occasionally, but they got lucky that Ford's design had the decoder get reset by turning the radio off and on.
It pisses me off when it happens, and as you found, us owners are SOL.