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Honda Accord (2008-2012) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    Rattle was better for about 35-40 minutes and has since returned. So, I think they're on the right track, but it appears to be something that either was still tightened enough or which may be stripped.

    I also am still getting absolutely ZERO subwoofer response. Radio has "loosened up," so to speak, as several earlier posters suggested it should and I now have good range of audible change from +6 to -6 on the Bass and Treble adjustments. However, turning the Subwoofer adjustment from +6 to -6 produces absolutely no audible change in sound whatsoever, regardless of how the Bass or Treble are otherwise set (I've mixed and matched).

    I'm wondering if these two problems are related and what's vibrating in back is a broken piece of subwoofer. Thoughts?

    -FS :confuse:
  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    This may be a bit far fetched but if your car was built overseas the radio was most likely installed here at the docks.. I had problems deluxe with my japanese built car to find out the car was never destined for America but got here.. I already had the amp installed in the back as per the requirements for the other country and they installed another one in front.when it got here. took weeks to figure it out. Again, just an example of what can happen when things get screwed up with points of delivery
  • hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    Interesting - I never knew that. But I don't think it matters in my case as my window sticker says final point of assembly was Marysville, Ohio and that my engine (but not my transmission) are U.S. sourced.
  • johngf1johngf1 Member Posts: 37
    Wondering if anyone has encountered "check gas cap" on their 2010 Accord Coupe. Car has 15,000 miles on the odometer. I always click the gas cap a few times and always turn off the engine when I refuel. Called dealer for appointment if the msg doesn't disappear after driving 30 50 miles. Are there any recalls or open issues? Thanks
  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    Be thankful its just a gas cap or a stupid sensor.. By 15k miles I ripped out my whole brake system and installed a non OEM system after spending over 500 dollars with the dealer who told me I didnt know how to drive the car right.. I swear to god, anything more happens to my car and I will take it to the worst neighborhood in an adjoining city and leave the doors unlocked and the windows open while I take a cab to another foreign car dealer
  • hickok_wbhickok_wb Member Posts: 3
    This happened to me once after my wife filled up. I think she didn't get the cap on tight enough. I took off the cap, retightened it until it clicked and the light went out after driving for a while.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This is usually due to a vacuum leak, either at the cap seal (or not being tight enough) or in the evaporative emissions system---it could be as simple as a loose vacuum line.
  • pastatiepastatie Member Posts: 26
    Recently had the "new and improved" rear brake pads dealer installed because I was told the $150 from the class action suit would cover it---it did except for our state sales tax. The kicker was the service advisor promoted turning/cutting the rear rotors. If you have looked at yours lately they are maybe 3/8" thick. My rotors were not warped and the advisor quoted a price, are you ready, of $260 to do the rotors. I of course declined and the pads are seated and wearing properly as of this writing.
    I am searching for any information how to adjust the front headrests. Seriously they are the most uncomfortable headrests I have ever experienced, just look at them. If your neck doesn't break with a serious rear end collision you would be lucky. It almost looks like they should be pulled out and reversed to fit the curve of your neck. Any help here appreciated.
  • kendall8kendall8 Member Posts: 28
    What a HONDA SCAM. We will pay $150. BUT BEND YOU OVER ,and make you PAY for something you dont need. WIN WIN FOR HONDA. I had same crap happen to me at SOUTH SHORE HONDA ON LONG ISLAND...I have had 7 HONDAS .......NO MORE...IT was my fault back brakes went at 15k, SURE SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT A SONATA .. HONDA loosing its touch. ITS like an AMERICAN car company NOW
  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    welcome to the you just got ripped off club... my rotors were so bad at 5k miles they were turned.. I typically pay for my other car 50 dollars for 2.. My price for the Honda just short of your price.. Reminder, most service writers are salespeople.. I ended up ripping up my whole break system from rotors to calipers around 15 k and a mechanic who did not use OEM.. Now its perfect and I dont have to worry about my wife and child killing themselves becuase Honda uses toilet paper for brake parts.. Go to a local mechanic if you are out of warranty... Hondas arent that difficult to fix nor maintain and you will save a bundle. By the way .. I am 57 and I was told by the punk service write that apparently I didnt know how to drive the car.. Thats why the brakes and rotors wore out.. Thank god I didnt have my pocket flame thrower with me.. I did ask him If he could recommend a good driving school.. I have no problem at all with the headrests.. May be a mechanical issue. Are you under warranty.. If so make sure you speak with the manager first to make sure they are covered
  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    edited August 2011
    arent Hondas assembled here? I have thought about the Hundai but the reviews havent been great and they dont have as long a track record. I love my subaru.... Not a problem .. Had it since 96 with very low mileage.. Also have a mercedes diesel, 1986 with 600,000 miles on it... Original muffler... just change the oil every 3,000 and the timing CHAIN ever 120,000 and its great.

    I would take a look at the jetta diesel or the VWsportwagon diesel.. will last forever and real fun to drive.
  • hickok_wbhickok_wb Member Posts: 3
    I had my bad brake pads replaced with the new ones under the class action suit. I have a 2008 EXLV6. No more problems and no unscrupulous service department. They were extremely apologetic for the problem and promised the new ones should last at least 40K miles. No attempt at selling me something I didn't need. Go to another dealer post haste! There are bad dealerships for all brands of cars. The premature wear thing was unfortunate but it sure beats some of the life threatening problems that have occurred with other brands. I will still consider a Honda next time.
  • rkirchoffrkirchoff Member Posts: 65
    I had some honda issues too but got them fixed to my satisfaction by taking my honda to a different dealership. Perhaps you ought to try that too.

    The dealership where I bought my Honda tried many times to make me pay for things I felt were not needed nor wanted. I took my car to a different dealership and they treated me with more respect, didn't try to add crap I didn't need, and appreciated my business.
  • hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    edited August 2011
    You are indeed a patient man. In 2001 a local Nissan dealer had to replace the transmission in my 1999 Nissan Maxima 5 spd.. When they re-connected the shifter, they did a sloppy job of tightening and the stick had about 4" of play in it while it was in gear. I drove right back to the dealership, only to have a 19 year old service writer tell me that I didn't know how to drive stickshift.

    I asked to see his manager, who came right over and said the same thing. I then asked both of them if their health insurance was fully paid. When they looked at me dumbfounded, I added "because I've been driving stickshift for almost 30 years - longer than EITHER of you have been alive - and the next one of you that tells me I don't know how to drive my car is going to need all the health coverage he can muster."

    That got the head of the service department out PDQ.

    He had them take the boot off the linkage where they found that, sure enough, they had failed to properly connect two of the linkage rods. A couple of turns of the wrench and I was good to go.

    The dealership then told me to never bring my car there again.

    As if....! (lol)

    -FS ;)
  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    too funny... me patient? One word... Xanax

    I once said at a dealership to a 12 year old salesman, i mean service writer that I was so pissed off at, If I only had a flamethrower ,( A quote from the movie scent of a woman).. The cops were called... They knew me and we had a joke about it.

    Have a prosperous day.
  • cobra7woodcobra7wood Member Posts: 4
    My 2009 Accord EXL-V6 has been consuming oil at a rate of 1 qt every 4,000 miles. I'm going in for my 2nd oil change this week with my odometer at 16,500 miles and the car is 24 mos. old. I just had my spark plug #3 fail last week. I forgot to have the service technician show me the bad plug but I have a hunch it was fouled from oil in the combustion chamber. In researching fouled plugs for late model Accords it seemed like most were happening in the 30-40,000 mile range or in the 70-80,000 mile range. A friend of mine who is an expert in auto mechanics thinks it's possible the cylinder walls were not properly scored on my engine and that my oil consumption is due to oil making it past the rings into the combustion chamber and thus fouling 1 spark plug so far. Do you agree with his diagnosis or do you have an alternative explaination?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I rather doubt that diagnosis, as the amount of oil entering the combustion chamber would be abundant and your car would look like it worked for the mosquito abatement bureau.

    If, in fact, your plugs are fouling from oil burning (which isn't necessarily a slam-dunk conclusion since they would foul much faster than 4K miles in my opinion). then the oil intrusion would be more likely to come from defective valve stem seals or worn valve guides.

    A cylinder leakdown test would reveal all here--no need to be guessing. Compressed air is fed into each cylinder through a device that looks like a spark plug but is actually an entry valve for the compressed air. Then the technician measures the rate of leakage of the compressed air in the cylinder. if he's clever, he can also listen for escaping air through the air filter or engine intake (that would be valve guides) or the tailpipe (that would be cylinder rings) -- although the rate of escape might be too subtle for that perception.

    If the cylinder leakdown shows no defect, then your plug fouling might be due to improper fuel mixture or the wrong spark plug installed or the fuel being used. You should double-check that all that is in order.

    As for the consumption itself, one quart every 4,000 is quite normal and no cause for worry----but the plug fouling is a cause for worry and should be investigated.
  • dilt1dilt1 Member Posts: 11
    If you head over to the VCM thread..#2645......my post. Print out the service bulletins, present them to you service adviser and get them installed.

    for those suffering with engine and oil consumption issues, please take a look at the following two links for service bulletins 10-033 and 11-033.

    I had the same problems with my 2010 V6 and the oil consumption seems to have abated with no noticeable consumption noted over the last 2000 miles.

    http://mordor.rutgers.edu/accord/tsb/A10-033.PDF

    http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/forumfiles/SB/A11-033.PDF

    Insist the appropriate service bulletin(s) are installed in your vehicle. Print out the bulletins and take them with you. Hard to argue when you have the documentation in hand.
  • cobra7woodcobra7wood Member Posts: 4
    I had TSB A10-033 performed last week when the plug was changed out. I will request TSB A11-033 be performed tomorrow night when my oil is changed. When I mentioned my post in this blog to my automotive consultant, he also added that if the "scraper ring" on the piston was doing it's job the only other way for oil to enter the combustion chamber was by faulty valve stem seals as Mr. Shiftright mentioned above. Thanks for all of your excellent feedback. My regular grade gasoline is always purchased at the same BP/Amoco station. Should I consider switching brands? If so, what is recommended?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I read the TSBs and the first one about plug fouling may be worth doing but the second one seems to suggest an oil consumption issue way worse than yours, so possibly not related to your problem.
  • dpmeersmandpmeersman Member Posts: 275
    I seem to remember a BMW analysis of various brands of gas and the brands they listed in tier 1, the top tier were Shell, Exxon and Mobil.
  • dilt1dilt1 Member Posts: 11
    I think I disagree with you Mr. Shiftright...(with all due respect)......11-033 is an amendment to 10-033 as told to me by Honda - note the same 033 suffix. Indeed, the Valve Pause System may indeed be the problem that caused (or contributed) the plug fowling detailed in 10-033.

    In my case, the car continued to enjoy oil for about 850 miles after the updates and then flat out stopped. The service adviser noted this was the second vehicle that took a few miles after the update to quiet down oil consumption.

    In 11-033 note the "Vehicles Affected" and it's all 2008+ Accords. My humble opinion would be to get the update installed.

    As with everything else......your mileage may vary.

    And I do hope the complexity of VCM will vanish in the future. Not worth the headaches IMHO and it sure has the potential of tarnishing a great reputation (Honda).
  • dpmeersmandpmeersman Member Posts: 275
    I've had no plug fouling issues in my 2008 EX-L V6 which I traded with 35,000 miles for a 2010 EX-L V6. The 2010 hasn't experienced any plug fouling but both cars go thru about a quart every 4-6,000 miles. Not enough oil in my opinion to have someone, even under a TSB, start tearing apart an engine that is performing fine in all areas of acceleration and economy.
  • kendall8kendall8 Member Posts: 28
    2 different sounds, coming from dashboard. One from middle vents (sounds like golf balls rolling on wood floor) Other from pasanger side, more of a squeaking, from glove compartment ...
  • pgm17pgm17 Member Posts: 51
    If anyone has any luck locating the above please advise. Thanks!
  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    If it is still under warranty park it in the dealership and start talking about lemon laws and or call the regional manager for Honda and get him involved..
  • pgm17pgm17 Member Posts: 51
    The dealer is fixing it but had to special order the part. I just wanted to see the PDF of 10-046 to see what they were going to do.
  • pgm17pgm17 Member Posts: 51
    Never mind. Located it at driveaccord.netThanks
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Hi, I was hoping to get some advice. I had a backing up run-in with a curb, which unfortunately was a bit too high to clear my undercarriage and strike just my tires. The only thing struck was the curved part of the exhaust pipe as it exits the muffer going towards the front of the car (for some unlucky reason that seems to hang a tad lower than the muffler proper, which went right over the curb and wasn't damaged by it ... unfortunately though the muffler, exhaust pipe and resonator are a long one-piece affair on this car going all the way up to the catalytic converter, and are not separable parts). The pipe was pinched between the curb and the metal on the other side of the pipe, with the result that the diameter or lumen of the pipe is now significantly constricted (there is no complete blockage though) on both sides, as compared to the normal diameter pipe leading into and out of the constricted section.

    In the aftermath, the car still seems to run ok, and it doesn't sound any louder (the pipe wasn't punctured in any way, just compressed), and what appears to be a normal stream of exhaust continues to come out of the muffler. I imagine though that this can't be good for the car - for one thing the pipe will likely be subject to swifter rusting, gas mileage may suffer, and I am worried about long term deleterious effects to the engine or whatever is upstream from the constriction due to increased back pressure of hot gases, so I think I should probably get it fixed and will probably make an appointment for later in the week at the dealer to do so.

    Here are my questions: is my only realistic option to purchase a new muffler/exhaust pipe, or is there any way the dealer can somehow restore the pipe to its original size? I can't particularly imagine how that could be achieved expect maybe if the pipe were severed near the constriction and somehow the constricted piece was hammered outward before re-welding. If that is a possibility, would it be any cheaper/better of an option than simply replacing the whole thing?

    Assuming that I need to replace the entire muffler/exhaust part, how much should this job cost me? The Honda e-store at the Official Honda Owner-Link site sells this part for $434 list price, and implies that it can be picked up at any dealer - if so, is that around what the dealer will charge me for the part itself if he installs it as well? What about the labor charge for replacement? The replacement doesn't seem like a big deal or a lengthy job to me (but then I'm not a mechanic) - everything seems to be visible once you put the car on a lift, and it would appear to be only a brief matter in swapping the old for the new. All of the hangers, fasteners and whatnots there now were not damaged and I assume can be re-used, so I believe I'm probably just looking at a charge for the one part and the labor to put it in.

    I would welcome and appreciate any thoughts/opinions about this predicament. Thanks.

    PS> Is there a better option than replacing this with an official Honda part ... such as with an all-stainless steel part? If that's a better option, what might it likely cost? Thanks.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Dealerships usually are not well equipped to work on exhaust systems. If you think the system could be repaired, I would try a muffler shop. They have specific equipment to bend/cut/expand and weld pipes. Many of them do custom stainless systems as well as vintage cars where the systems have to be custom made. They may be able to repair whatever damage your car has.

    Mrbill
  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    Do you really need an original Honda pipe.. I know what I would do, nothing from what you are saying or if it bothered m, go to my local mechanic who I trust and he knows how to use a torch ,too. or go to Meineke or Midas... It may be 434 but I bet it will be another 400 for a HOnda tech to install it.. They are also on commission.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Thanks for the comments. I did take it to Monroe to get an estimate. The guy claimed that they don't yet stock replacement mufflers for this late of a model of Accord, because not enough of the originals have gone bad yet for it to be worthwhile for them to carry such an inventory. I think he said 2007 is the most recent year for which they have Accord replacements. He did offer to get an original Honda part for $790 ($350 buck markup, lol), but said that the labor charge for putting it in would only be $95 and that they could install it in an hour once they had the part. He didn't mention any welding option, though I didn't specifically ask. Those are not bad ideas though about checking for someone who does custom jobs or asking the mechanic who works on my older 95 Accord. I didn't think he specifically did mufflers, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to ask.
  • jmillerjmillerjmillerjmiller Member Posts: 113
    By crimped, is the pipe actually crunched more than half way flat? If its only a small reduction in diameter, I would likely let it alone. If it does happen to fail early, you may have traded the car by then - or at least aftermarket parts will then be available for the exhaust.

    If the damaged area is far enough from the muffler, I don't see why a good independent specialty shop wouldn't be able to just cut out and replace the damaged portion of pipe.

    I guess that would require skill with a pipe bender, and either welding or clamping the replacement piece in place (if there is room for clamps at that location).

    Most chain shops are into using their own replacement assy's and generic pieces to clamp together a system, versus a true custom exhaust shops work.

    My mother did something similar to a dual section of pipe at the front of her 99 v6 accord by sliding forward over a parking stop in the snow. It flattened it some - and it's still on the car now seven or so years after it happened. This is in the section that would be stainless due to the catalytic converters downstream covered by the 80K emission warranty.

    The assembly you talk about was replace on hers after six or seven years after developing a hole from corrosion - so unless the current car has a FULL Stainless Steel exhaust system, they aren't going to last forever anyways.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Unfortunately the opening is probably less than half of what it was. It got crunched pretty good. I tend to keep my cars for a long time, so this is something I would have to live with (I bought my 95 Accord new back in October 0f 1994 - the 17 year anniversary is coming up next week .... it's still running great .. in fact in many ways I prefer it to the new Accord).

    The specialty shop option sounds good - I just have to find one, as I'm living in a small town. Thanks for the comment.
  • jmillerjmillerjmillerjmiller Member Posts: 113
    A 50% reduction, I would expect adds a good bit of back pressure at high rpm's, likely cutting down on the peak horsepower by some amount.

    Factory exhaust systems typically have more back pressure than custom performance ones, since most factory systems don't have mandrel type bends in them to start with - so they actually reduce the pipe diameter some at each bend.

    From what I can find in other forums, some people looking for a performance cat back system for this 4 cylinder model have mostly gone for a local custom fabricated exhaust system using aftermarket muffler. Typically a garage in the 'speed' or 'performance' shop category.

    I hope you can find an serious auto shop that does custom exhaust work, to do what really sounds like a fairly straightforward repair versus the usual remove and replace.

    Best wishes.
  • hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    When last we left our superhero, we were getting "springy" noises from the rear package shelf area. Dealer tightened something that made that better but not totally fixed.

    Now getting increasingly annoying "body flex" sounds from the rear of the car every time I back out of the garage or take a turn that flexes the body at all. Can't tell if its the fenders, the trunk lid, or just a rear window needs to be re-sealed thing, but its drivin' me nuts. Brand new Honda shouldn't sound like a 10 year old bucket of bolts.

    Anybody dealt with this, know of any TSB's, or got any info. that might help?

    -FS :confuse:
  • ej2010ej2010 Member Posts: 12
    Hi... I have just done the B1 service on my 2010 Honda Accord with 13K miles. Cost me 89.99 at local dealership.
    Thx
  • brennanpersonabrennanpersona Member Posts: 2
    Went to charge battery and connected the jumpers incorrectly. Radio and controls gone for navigation display, Dealer suggested a new Amp. Were can I get a used one and what is the part number. I know its up behind the glove box.
    Then a week later the heating and air conditions and the controls have failed completely. No heat and no AC. Do you think there are related?
    Oh Lord. This is gonna cost big.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    A reporter is looking for owners who have had premature wear on the their Honda Accord and Honda Civic brakes. If you would agree to be interviewed by this reporter, please send your contact information to pr@edmunds.com by Wednesday, December 14, 2011.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • michael2595michael2595 Member Posts: 72
    That would mean all of us.... Never knew they could make brakes and rotors out of tissue
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    I know that this reporter has been looking into the issue and trying to gather consumer experiences for about a month now, so feel free to respond and add your experience.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • drkyungshindrkyungshin Member Posts: 1
    edited December 2011
    I(actually my wife) bought 2008 accord at buena park, ca. Buying experience was O.K.
    But after buying the Buena Park honda really sucks. After buying new, probably after a week driver's rear tire was blown out at freeway. I don't know why but when I aked them their attidude was none of my business. This accord is my 5th honda and When my wife wanted to buy camry, I insisted my wife to buy accord. I was a little bit sorry for my wife, but anyway there could be a defect, andwe passes that problem.
    Now is the problem. About 2 weeks ago when I had a chace to dirve I heard some strange noise( usually my wife drives accord). When my brother(he has accord cntour) drives he told me that this could be either wheel bearing or transmission so bring it to dealer.
    I thought which deale I go. I live Brea, CA but buena park was closee to my work so I went to there. Big mistake!!! I left my car but I needed a car that day so I rented with my own money.( I know some dealers give courtesy rental car but they don't)
    That evening dealer left me a message that the car is O.K. and I can pick up my car.
    Next morning when picked up I can stil hear the noise and that time I asked one of my friend who is mechanic to check .
    When he checked, it' because of wheel bearing and it will be covered warranty so go to dealer.
    last thursday I went the dealer again and told to supervisor. we test drive together, he said sorry but he also told me that AI also had a mistake. What mistake!!!
    he told me that i descrived metalic squeeking noise but this is whirling noise. what a bull [non-permissible content removed]...
    If they are experienced mechanic no matter what description they have to find out the problem. Anyway i left again. that time it took 2 days. I kept calling and left message when I can fin my car, but no answer. Finally friday around 2 o'clock they called and said the car is ready. Thank you for quick reply!!!!
    Now this time When I brake it sound like DA. DA DA-- sound like abs brake sound.
    this morning bck to dealer again. My wife don't want to drive accord so we switched car.
    also my wife told me never honda again...
    This is my 5th honda nd I loved honda. Before there was no problem, and I was happy with my previous honda. This time maybe my bad luck.
    But Buena Park Honda's attitude makes me really angry.Never go to B.P. honda for service..
  • qlxfqlxf Member Posts: 3
    I got brand new Accord LX automatic. Only several hundreds of miles on it now.
    There is a high-pitched whistle/squeak noise when I drive it especially at speed of 25 to 50. I could not hear similar noise when I drive another same car.
    Anyone has any idea? Please check the link below. (maximize your volume, especially since 1:20)

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxoPJnita2Y&context=C3e7323cADOEgsToPDskIqj24e2dM- BmcWiRMoaMSdc

    Also, I opened hood and I heard high-pitched screech/squeaking noise . I don't know if it is related the noise heard inside of the car.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LacojXwiOFA&context=C3595032ADOEgsToPDskIULsBq4jB- h32WPae-RfFW4
  • temj12temj12 Member Posts: 450
    I watched your video. The video was a good way to show your problem. Good for you in doing that. I have an '05 Accord I4 and, from the beginning, it has had this light whistle sound when traveling on the highway or interstate. I don't know whether that is the sound that you are experiencing, since yours is the model change. From what I can hear, it sounds the same. When I bought mine new, there were others on here who complained about the same thing. Quite honestly, you may never be able to get to the bottom of it. I wonder if it is in the gearing.
  • qlxfqlxf Member Posts: 3
    Yes. The light whistle is bothering me a lot. I brought my car to 3 different dealers, they told me it is normal. But when I told them I could not hear any noise in another car, they could not give any explanation.
    So annoying.
  • jmillerjmillerjmillerjmiller Member Posts: 113
    edited January 2012
    I'll have to get some headphones, as the level was too low for the laptop on the driving video.

    As for the under hood video, it's hard to get a feel for how loud it would be standing up with the hood open for comparison. It sounds loud, especially the hot knocking sound from the engine (i assume the oil is full), and the rattly lawn mower noise from the accessory drive (makes me think of the ac compressor at the bottom, but you are showing the power steering pump). The top belt driven unit is the power steering pump, the one below is the alternator, and wayy down on the bottom (not seen in the video) is the AC compressor.

    If the whine is from the engine or its accessory drives, it should be reproducible while parked by running the engine in the rpm range where it is when driving those road speeds.

    I've had one car where there was an air induction noise in the engine at certain rpm, creating a whine.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    If your trying to narrow down the source of the noise, you might want to try a mechanics stethoscope. I've used one of these, and although their cheaply made, they get the job done. http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-41966.html

    Just be careful when using it near rotating parts.

    Mrbill
  • qlxfqlxf Member Posts: 3
    Yes. You have to use headphones and maximize your volume to hear the whistle.

    I notice it is most obvious when it is at 1500rpm or a little bit above (1600rmp).
  • ahqahq Member Posts: 37
    I'm about 1.5 years into a three year lease on my 2010 Accord LX sedan. I've encountered similar noises from the rear trunk/cargo area or parcel shelf from time to time. Sometimes I don't hear any sounds for days, other times I start hearing the sound as soon as I back my car out for 2-3 feet. It's a ticking, tapping, clickety clacking sound. I didn't have the dealer do a complete teardown and investigation yet, but I agree with you - this is maddening for a Honda, let alone one that is relatively new. I may buy the car at the end of the lease, but after this sound and various interior creaks, I'm not so sure.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I bought a one owner Accord with 37K miles last Nov. The car has a faint and constant whine that is more noticable at take offs and more than idle speed RPM. Above 30-40 miles, you can't hear it. It has nothing to do with transmission in any gear. When I test drove the car, I did not hear the noise. I never test drive a car with radio on or windows down.

    I checked the power steering fuid level and it is full. Does anyone have any idea what this whine is coming from. It almost sounds like power steering pump, alternator, or water pump.

    Thanks,
    Joe
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