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I also am still getting absolutely ZERO subwoofer response. Radio has "loosened up," so to speak, as several earlier posters suggested it should and I now have good range of audible change from +6 to -6 on the Bass and Treble adjustments. However, turning the Subwoofer adjustment from +6 to -6 produces absolutely no audible change in sound whatsoever, regardless of how the Bass or Treble are otherwise set (I've mixed and matched).
I'm wondering if these two problems are related and what's vibrating in back is a broken piece of subwoofer. Thoughts?
-FS :confuse:
I am searching for any information how to adjust the front headrests. Seriously they are the most uncomfortable headrests I have ever experienced, just look at them. If your neck doesn't break with a serious rear end collision you would be lucky. It almost looks like they should be pulled out and reversed to fit the curve of your neck. Any help here appreciated.
I would take a look at the jetta diesel or the VWsportwagon diesel.. will last forever and real fun to drive.
The dealership where I bought my Honda tried many times to make me pay for things I felt were not needed nor wanted. I took my car to a different dealership and they treated me with more respect, didn't try to add crap I didn't need, and appreciated my business.
I asked to see his manager, who came right over and said the same thing. I then asked both of them if their health insurance was fully paid. When they looked at me dumbfounded, I added "because I've been driving stickshift for almost 30 years - longer than EITHER of you have been alive - and the next one of you that tells me I don't know how to drive my car is going to need all the health coverage he can muster."
That got the head of the service department out PDQ.
He had them take the boot off the linkage where they found that, sure enough, they had failed to properly connect two of the linkage rods. A couple of turns of the wrench and I was good to go.
The dealership then told me to never bring my car there again.
As if....! (lol)
-FS
I once said at a dealership to a 12 year old salesman, i mean service writer that I was so pissed off at, If I only had a flamethrower ,( A quote from the movie scent of a woman).. The cops were called... They knew me and we had a joke about it.
Have a prosperous day.
If, in fact, your plugs are fouling from oil burning (which isn't necessarily a slam-dunk conclusion since they would foul much faster than 4K miles in my opinion). then the oil intrusion would be more likely to come from defective valve stem seals or worn valve guides.
A cylinder leakdown test would reveal all here--no need to be guessing. Compressed air is fed into each cylinder through a device that looks like a spark plug but is actually an entry valve for the compressed air. Then the technician measures the rate of leakage of the compressed air in the cylinder. if he's clever, he can also listen for escaping air through the air filter or engine intake (that would be valve guides) or the tailpipe (that would be cylinder rings) -- although the rate of escape might be too subtle for that perception.
If the cylinder leakdown shows no defect, then your plug fouling might be due to improper fuel mixture or the wrong spark plug installed or the fuel being used. You should double-check that all that is in order.
As for the consumption itself, one quart every 4,000 is quite normal and no cause for worry----but the plug fouling is a cause for worry and should be investigated.
for those suffering with engine and oil consumption issues, please take a look at the following two links for service bulletins 10-033 and 11-033.
I had the same problems with my 2010 V6 and the oil consumption seems to have abated with no noticeable consumption noted over the last 2000 miles.
http://mordor.rutgers.edu/accord/tsb/A10-033.PDF
http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/forumfiles/SB/A11-033.PDF
Insist the appropriate service bulletin(s) are installed in your vehicle. Print out the bulletins and take them with you. Hard to argue when you have the documentation in hand.
In my case, the car continued to enjoy oil for about 850 miles after the updates and then flat out stopped. The service adviser noted this was the second vehicle that took a few miles after the update to quiet down oil consumption.
In 11-033 note the "Vehicles Affected" and it's all 2008+ Accords. My humble opinion would be to get the update installed.
As with everything else......your mileage may vary.
And I do hope the complexity of VCM will vanish in the future. Not worth the headaches IMHO and it sure has the potential of tarnishing a great reputation (Honda).
In the aftermath, the car still seems to run ok, and it doesn't sound any louder (the pipe wasn't punctured in any way, just compressed), and what appears to be a normal stream of exhaust continues to come out of the muffler. I imagine though that this can't be good for the car - for one thing the pipe will likely be subject to swifter rusting, gas mileage may suffer, and I am worried about long term deleterious effects to the engine or whatever is upstream from the constriction due to increased back pressure of hot gases, so I think I should probably get it fixed and will probably make an appointment for later in the week at the dealer to do so.
Here are my questions: is my only realistic option to purchase a new muffler/exhaust pipe, or is there any way the dealer can somehow restore the pipe to its original size? I can't particularly imagine how that could be achieved expect maybe if the pipe were severed near the constriction and somehow the constricted piece was hammered outward before re-welding. If that is a possibility, would it be any cheaper/better of an option than simply replacing the whole thing?
Assuming that I need to replace the entire muffler/exhaust part, how much should this job cost me? The Honda e-store at the Official Honda Owner-Link site sells this part for $434 list price, and implies that it can be picked up at any dealer - if so, is that around what the dealer will charge me for the part itself if he installs it as well? What about the labor charge for replacement? The replacement doesn't seem like a big deal or a lengthy job to me (but then I'm not a mechanic) - everything seems to be visible once you put the car on a lift, and it would appear to be only a brief matter in swapping the old for the new. All of the hangers, fasteners and whatnots there now were not damaged and I assume can be re-used, so I believe I'm probably just looking at a charge for the one part and the labor to put it in.
I would welcome and appreciate any thoughts/opinions about this predicament. Thanks.
PS> Is there a better option than replacing this with an official Honda part ... such as with an all-stainless steel part? If that's a better option, what might it likely cost? Thanks.
Mrbill
If the damaged area is far enough from the muffler, I don't see why a good independent specialty shop wouldn't be able to just cut out and replace the damaged portion of pipe.
I guess that would require skill with a pipe bender, and either welding or clamping the replacement piece in place (if there is room for clamps at that location).
Most chain shops are into using their own replacement assy's and generic pieces to clamp together a system, versus a true custom exhaust shops work.
My mother did something similar to a dual section of pipe at the front of her 99 v6 accord by sliding forward over a parking stop in the snow. It flattened it some - and it's still on the car now seven or so years after it happened. This is in the section that would be stainless due to the catalytic converters downstream covered by the 80K emission warranty.
The assembly you talk about was replace on hers after six or seven years after developing a hole from corrosion - so unless the current car has a FULL Stainless Steel exhaust system, they aren't going to last forever anyways.
The specialty shop option sounds good - I just have to find one, as I'm living in a small town. Thanks for the comment.
Factory exhaust systems typically have more back pressure than custom performance ones, since most factory systems don't have mandrel type bends in them to start with - so they actually reduce the pipe diameter some at each bend.
From what I can find in other forums, some people looking for a performance cat back system for this 4 cylinder model have mostly gone for a local custom fabricated exhaust system using aftermarket muffler. Typically a garage in the 'speed' or 'performance' shop category.
I hope you can find an serious auto shop that does custom exhaust work, to do what really sounds like a fairly straightforward repair versus the usual remove and replace.
Best wishes.
Now getting increasingly annoying "body flex" sounds from the rear of the car every time I back out of the garage or take a turn that flexes the body at all. Can't tell if its the fenders, the trunk lid, or just a rear window needs to be re-sealed thing, but its drivin' me nuts. Brand new Honda shouldn't sound like a 10 year old bucket of bolts.
Anybody dealt with this, know of any TSB's, or got any info. that might help?
-FS :confuse:
Thx
Then a week later the heating and air conditions and the controls have failed completely. No heat and no AC. Do you think there are related?
Oh Lord. This is gonna cost big.
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But after buying the Buena Park honda really sucks. After buying new, probably after a week driver's rear tire was blown out at freeway. I don't know why but when I aked them their attidude was none of my business. This accord is my 5th honda and When my wife wanted to buy camry, I insisted my wife to buy accord. I was a little bit sorry for my wife, but anyway there could be a defect, andwe passes that problem.
Now is the problem. About 2 weeks ago when I had a chace to dirve I heard some strange noise( usually my wife drives accord). When my brother(he has accord cntour) drives he told me that this could be either wheel bearing or transmission so bring it to dealer.
I thought which deale I go. I live Brea, CA but buena park was closee to my work so I went to there. Big mistake!!! I left my car but I needed a car that day so I rented with my own money.( I know some dealers give courtesy rental car but they don't)
That evening dealer left me a message that the car is O.K. and I can pick up my car.
Next morning when picked up I can stil hear the noise and that time I asked one of my friend who is mechanic to check .
When he checked, it' because of wheel bearing and it will be covered warranty so go to dealer.
last thursday I went the dealer again and told to supervisor. we test drive together, he said sorry but he also told me that AI also had a mistake. What mistake!!!
he told me that i descrived metalic squeeking noise but this is whirling noise. what a bull [non-permissible content removed]...
If they are experienced mechanic no matter what description they have to find out the problem. Anyway i left again. that time it took 2 days. I kept calling and left message when I can fin my car, but no answer. Finally friday around 2 o'clock they called and said the car is ready. Thank you for quick reply!!!!
Now this time When I brake it sound like DA. DA DA-- sound like abs brake sound.
this morning bck to dealer again. My wife don't want to drive accord so we switched car.
also my wife told me never honda again...
This is my 5th honda nd I loved honda. Before there was no problem, and I was happy with my previous honda. This time maybe my bad luck.
But Buena Park Honda's attitude makes me really angry.Never go to B.P. honda for service..
There is a high-pitched whistle/squeak noise when I drive it especially at speed of 25 to 50. I could not hear similar noise when I drive another same car.
Anyone has any idea? Please check the link below. (maximize your volume, especially since 1:20)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxoPJnita2Y&context=C3e7323cADOEgsToPDskIqj24e2dM- BmcWiRMoaMSdc
Also, I opened hood and I heard high-pitched screech/squeaking noise . I don't know if it is related the noise heard inside of the car.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LacojXwiOFA&context=C3595032ADOEgsToPDskIULsBq4jB- h32WPae-RfFW4
So annoying.
As for the under hood video, it's hard to get a feel for how loud it would be standing up with the hood open for comparison. It sounds loud, especially the hot knocking sound from the engine (i assume the oil is full), and the rattly lawn mower noise from the accessory drive (makes me think of the ac compressor at the bottom, but you are showing the power steering pump). The top belt driven unit is the power steering pump, the one below is the alternator, and wayy down on the bottom (not seen in the video) is the AC compressor.
If the whine is from the engine or its accessory drives, it should be reproducible while parked by running the engine in the rpm range where it is when driving those road speeds.
I've had one car where there was an air induction noise in the engine at certain rpm, creating a whine.
Just be careful when using it near rotating parts.
Mrbill
I notice it is most obvious when it is at 1500rpm or a little bit above (1600rmp).
I checked the power steering fuid level and it is full. Does anyone have any idea what this whine is coming from. It almost sounds like power steering pump, alternator, or water pump.
Thanks,
Joe