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My 04 4cyl Accord has a faint whine as does my 4cyl Tacoma pickup. Both have timing chains, not belts. Although I can't prove that the chain is the source of the noise, that's what I'm suspecting is causing the whine.
Mrbill
WHen I checked some forums online- the prices paid ranged from $67 to $489- this is the reason I ask.
Mrbill
My 2011 Accord EX-L Coupe at 14,500 miles developed a body flex noise that was driving me crazy. I have to take 12 left turns and 12 right turns a day going in and out of a six story parking deck, so at least 24 times a day that noise was grinding on my last nerves.
I just got my Coupe back from the dealer today after they did the repairs listed under the TSB and the noise is finally GONE!
However, I continue to have headliner noises above the passenger seat (dealer has stuffed felt tape in 1/2 a dozen different places - better each time but not a total elimination). My brake pedal still squeaks - they had fixed that by replacing the pistion assembly where it meets the master cylinder but it came back about 6000 miles later. This time they lubed it and it came back about 60 miles later but seems to have lessened a little since then.
My last and latest problem is that I keep getting a "cush" sound from the rear of the car. Dealer is convinced it is related to rear package shelf assembly, but I stilll think its more suspension related. Whenever I go over a soft bump I hear a "cush" sound as the suspension travels and settles. Tends to happen most under 45 degrees outside - almost not at all above 50 degrees.
Now my son tells me my cyclops light is out. I'm so freakin' tired of going to the dealer and I don't want to call Honda of America b/c all they'll do is dump on the dealer. Despite their limited success in fixing these problems, I do believe they are trying hard and don't want to cause problems for them or anger them.
Any suggestions or ideas?
-FS
Follow the above link for a copy of TSB 10-080. Affects all Accords -- Sedans and Coupes. There are five pages of places listed where your creaking may be coming from.
PS: I spoke too soon. My creaking came back after being silent for two weeks, so my dealer agreed go over the car again.
I still don't creak when going straight or on bumpy roads now. My creaking seems to be confined to right turns at speed (a 90% turn from one road onto another).
It still seems to come from the same area a before, but before they did repairs I would also get the sound when making left turns, so I'm wondering if when they fixed one spot another is starting to flex.
If so, have you noticed any change in performance, driveability or gas mileage?
Living in Connecticut, I need traction for rain and snow. And I would prefer a quiet tire, the Honda is noisy enough. I would love to have a tire that gets about 50k of good service too. The current tires have come up short. I will take part of the blame for not getting the tires rotated more often.
Any brands, or models for this particular car that are proven performers? Keep in mind, I have to have the H rated tires since that is what is called out for. Why?? It isn't a Ferrari!!
It happens only when the car is in Drive Gear, with break pressed , and with the AC compressor running.
If i switch off the AC compressor , this vibration/noise goes of.
I can even reproduce the issue at home .
Start the Car .
Start the AC Fan,
Put the car in D .. The Engine RPM goes down.
Press the AC Button , the compressor starts .
And the CAR/engine vibrates so much , that i get vibration sounds from even back of the Vehicle.
Switch off the Compressor , and the vibration and sound stops.
This vibration/noise wont come , if i don't put the car in D (i.e start the car and leave it in park , and switch on the compressor).
Is it possible , that the engine is just so new (around 40 miles) ,and that's why engine is still not at its peak.
Pls suggest..
I think the switch may be the issue , because if the compressor is loose the noise/vibration should come also when the car is in parking gear , not just D gear.
Or my be the engine still needs some break in. I will go to the Dealer on the weekend.
I've noticed some rather unrefined moans and groans coming from beneath the hood, in addition to some low level vibration (kind of a thrummy sound or feel) when the A/C is running, or when I turn the steering wheel while pulling my car out of a parking space at engine idle speed. The engine also surges a bit upon start-up. I think this is just the way the Accord is, at least the 4-cyl models.
It's possible that a loose compressor might only vibrate in gear and not at idle in Park. In any event, such vibration is way out of the ordinary and must be checked.
Having these issues :
1. Constant Grinding Noise coming from the engine ( Most Probably the Serpe Belt), the noise increases in the compartment , when the AC Fan is on.
2. Single Knocking Sound ( as if something moves and hit some thing) when accelerate from stop.
3.A weird sensation(happens randomly, like a jerk/or the accelerator depresses itself) in the accelerator pedal , while driving.
4.AC Throwing out water off the Vent.
On the phone, the service advisor said he needs to hear it. I told him I thought it is the power steering pump noise. He said it could be the timing chain. I will be very disappointed at Honda if it is the timing chain. Honda has been building this generation 2.4L engines since 2003 and the 2009 model has the issue??
At 47K miles, the car also uses about half a quart of oil between the oil changes. The rest of the car is fine. The gas mileage was a very decent 34mpg on the last road trip.
The seat comfort is not the best and year after year Honda has no intention of benchmarking other brands' seat comfort. I will wait and see what the 2013 Accord feels like. I also will consider the new Altima next time around.
One thing about the Accord and Civic that no one can deny is their incredible resale value. Bought a new 2010 Civic LX-S manual for $16K, 18 months and 20K miles later, sold it for $15,500.
Joe
My 04 I4 also has a whine to it, it's very faint and other people I mentioned the noise to don't notice it, but I can hear it. I've also suspected it's the timing chain since it's a similar noise to my I4 Toyota truck which also has a timing chain.
I can live with the faint noise over the need to replace a costly timing belt.
Mrbill
Thank you,
Joe
Anyhow, my understanding was that there was some sort of brake service campaign (or recall?) for the 2008, 2009 and early 2010 Accords. I looked up my car's VIN and it isn't covered under the campaign. I'm hoping that the rear pads are in good shape, but I guess I'm not too surprised that the front rotors may have to be turned at close to 30K miles.
When my rears were replaced i was told that there were "clips" installed to help keep the pads away from the rotors. This was the fix according to my Honda mechanic who knows his business. OEM pads were used which i believe are ceramic. Rotors were not turned.
Good luck with the brakes. Other than this issue i still think you are driving one of the best cars for the money on the market.
Thanks
On one side the car is old (time wise), has no side airbags, and might need some repairs soon. On the other side it was unbelievably reliable (almost no repairs in 12 years), babied, dealer maintained, rustproofed, etc.
Am I looking for trouble ? My 2001 looks willing to go for longtime. Any advice ?
Keep your old one or go look at another brand. I've been a Honda loyalist since my first car in 1991 but this will be my last and I'm gonna get out of it as early as I can.
For instance, when switching from 5th to 6th, could you put it in R (by mistake, because you pushed too much to the right ) ? Or when switching from 4th to 5th, could you push too much to the right, and reach the R level ? I always loved my 5-speed setup (the double-H layout).
I really love my manual 4cyl 2001, and would like to keep it.
"car is geared way too short YET gets crappy mileage ".
Cars geared short, keep the engine at higher RPM at a certain car speed, so always get crappy mileage. To save gas, the idea is to have the engine at the lowest possible RPM. Probably they wanted it sporty. Which is childish. You can always downshift if you want to waste gas, and pollute the planet.
What is your RPM at 75 miles/hour ?
About your car, popping out of the 3rd gear, this looks like a major safety concern to me.
About my 2001 Accord, it requires no repairs of any kind right now. It actually drives like a dream. They offered me $1,000 for it (?!?!?!).
Thanks again
What I wish, was that 1st thru 4th were a little bit longer, with 5th at or a little longer than 1.0:1 for use above 50 mph and 6th a 60 mph and over gear. With so many American highway speed limits at 65 mph and above across the USA today, there's no reason I should be solidly in 5th gear already at 45 mph.
Then there's the rattles - I've had the package shelf issue (dealer largely fixed but still getting a pneumatic sounding "cushhhhh" sound from that area) and numerous internal rattles (headliner clips along the top of the passenger door headliner edge, glove-box, rear shelf cross-rods in trunk, cyclops light tabs, sunglasses case, and passenger side vanity mirror cover-door, to name most but not all).
Finally, there's the mileage. In this world, with gas prices skyrocketing, how Honda could put out a car that gets 4 mpg LESS than their previous generation version on the exact same commute, is just astonishing. And yes, I'm well aware of the change in the EPA test cyle and the need to break the car in, etc. Car has 35000 miles on it since May, 2011 and I'm struggling to average 23 mpg on a more than 90% highway commute. I am not a heavy throttle person, though I do tend to move with traffic on the highway. Simply unacceptable from a car that, even under the NEW cycle is rated 19/26 when the old car was averging 26.5-27 mpg real world on the same commute. Even on a long (500 mile) trip, I only averaged 24.5 mpg where I had averaged 30+mpg with the old car only a year earlier.
Wish I'd kept my old 2004 - I loved that car and got rid of it only b/c at 170,000 miles, it was starting to burn oil and I was still on the original clutch. Thought the $$$ would be better spent on a new car than repairs and boy was I wrong.
-FS
I bought a 2009 Accord EX-L 5 speed with 34K miles in Nov 2011 and I am happy with the car. I think I am OK with the seat comfort. They are not great and that push at your lower back is a crazy design and if it gets to me I know how to fix it by taking the back cover off and messing with plastic back plate and cables. It gets 34-35mpg on hwy driving.
It drives and handles better than Camry and Altima. I drove them both. At 50K, it has the original well worn tires and brakes. I have done oil changes, air and cabing filter change and tire rotations myself. I just changed the battery on my own before it has a chance to act up in freezing winter.
This car is very trouble free compared to let's say a 2008-2010 BMW 528i that I am been watching for a while. Those cars have battery draining and water pump issues. most carfax report on used ones show multiple trips to dealership for issue.
Hondas are STILL very reliable compared to so many cars out there and have umatched high resale value.
Joe
This is not a problem and, if that's the only reason you're avoiding a six-speed manual, you are worrying about a non-issue.
I still don't understand why they build a 6-speed gearbox though (given that the 6th speed of a 6-speed gearbox has the same ratio as the former 5th speed of the older 5-speed gearbox). You have to shift more often, without getting any extra ratio. It may be a stupid marketing thing. Showing off that ... wow ... I have a 6-speed now !!!
I might add that such systems usually don't do squat to improve mileage if you travel in traffic, even at hwy. speeds, b/c the minute you touch the throttle, all 6 cylinders reactivate. So, if your commute is made in traffic where you are constantly managing the throttle up/down 2-3 mph to avoid a collision with closely packed cars around you, you don't get the mileage advantage. It only works if your commute allows for long stretches of hwy. speed on cruise control - otherwise you are never in cylinder deactivation mode.
The reason I am driving a manual is because when I put the car in a certain gear, I feel the engine rigid coupled with the road. I get absolute constant power. I feel connected to the road. No computer driven power change of any kind. What they did was to add 2 layers of software between my engine and the road. One is the computer driven automatic transmission. The 2nd software layer is the cylinder deactivation software. Why in the world would I want 2 extra computers between me and the road ?!
If I want to buy computers, I go to a computer store. I definitely don't go to a car dealership. It's funny they keep adding computers in cars. I think they got it all wrong. They think we want computers, not cars.
In the new 2013 Accord they removed money from steering (hydraulic steering replaced by cheaper electric steering), they removed money from suspension (fancy double wishbone front suspension replaced by cheaper MacPherson struts), and they pumped money into electronic gadgets ! Why do they think we want to buy electronic gadgets from a car dealership ?! It beats me.
I can type this text, safely from home, on one of my 3 computers. Why would I need more computers in my garage ?!
I was coming home from work when I stopped to fill up the gas tank. I left the head lights on and the battery has reached its useful life. When I went to start the car, it cranked slower, of course the battery is shot, but it did start. As I pulled away from the pump, there was some jerkyness. Then the Check Engine Light came on. I figure the lower voltage of the battery was the cause and I stopped the car, and shut if off to see if the light would go out. It didn't. Then, as I traveled down the road just a bit, the VSA lights came on. A couple of more shut down and restarts didn't help. The car runs rough as though it is only running on a couple of cylinders.
My guess as of today is that the emission equip has taken a hit, and/or the computer.. I can't read the codes until I get a new reader. My 2003 Acton will not link up and read the codes. I charged the battery up last night and problems still exist.
I am going to try and borrow a reader to see what I can gather for additional information. I posted a similar note last night under Questions, but I can't find it and any possible replies.
Any thing that I should be testing first? Thanks. :-(( :sick:
Funny stuff: instead of saying: "put the car in gear", owners of the new 2013 Accord should say: "put the car in belt" ! Yeah ... but they have computers ...