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Whatever happened with your transmission did they give you a new transmission? are you having the same problems? I had an Acura 2001 3.2 TL for 7 years and they gave me a loaner car for 1 month while they replaced the transmission at 50,000 miles. I started driving the car to work one morning and the car would not shift out of second gear to third gear. Acura then extended the warranty to 10 years or 100,000 miles since they said they fixed the problem with this transmission at the time the horsepower was 225. I bought a 2008 accord coupe 6 speed manual transmission with navigation and have had the following problems. Since I have had the car for almost a year come 11/2/08 the shifting from second gear into 3rd was never the smooth est since it would sometimes kick out of 3rd gear or was hard to get into 3rd gear smoothly then last week the dealer replaced the gearbox and advised that this was a problem note in some of the manual shift accords. The day I picked up the car it worked better into 3rd gear but was at first hard to put into 1st gear and reverse but became easier overtime. By the end of the week on day number 6 when I shifted into 4th gear it would kick out of 4th gear into neutral on its own which was very unsettling along with making a whining sound from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th 5th but not 6th gear. I drove the car the next morning to the dealer and barely made it there. Wilde Honda in Waukesha had the car for two days the first time and gave me a PT Cruiser from Enterprise which I advised the dealer was a piece of junk not to mention is only 2 out of 5 on a side impact crash test (pretty unsafe) so this time I requested anything but a Chrysler and was given a Mazda 3 which is much better but now they advised they will have my car for 4 days since they have to completely take the transmission apart to find out the problem. Now each time I have had the complimentary rental car from enterprise I have had to pick up the $18 insurance to cover for loss of rental which means if someone hits me and wrecks the car and I do not have this coverage I could be charged by the rental place $2000 a month for loss of rental on the vehicle if it is in the shop for one month. So this experience of having my Honda in the shop is costing me $120 out of pocket expense which I am really not happy about. My car insurance company does not cover loss of rental on a rental vehicle and I did call to verify this. At this point this is my 3rd Honda. I had a Honda Prelude no problems 45,000 miles (5 speed manual), 3.2L Acura 75,000 miles replace transmission under warranty, and now this Accord that has been in the dealership mechanic garage for 6 days not happy about that at all. I really hope that HONDA wins my confidence back since I am beginning to lose faith in this product. Does the lemon law apply yet or does it take 4x to the dealer and 30 days without the car or will Honda eventually just give me a new Accord so I can have a better experience??? Please respond when you have a free minute. :confuse:
Although there was a "Lemon Law" I never had to use it. That said however I've had a few that they "bought back" before the Lemon Law kicked in. Still a very painful experience.
My advice to you is to let your dealer know how you feel. Let him know you are willing to work with him but there may come a time when it stops being a normal frustrating experience and turns into a nightmare. It's the nightmare you are trying to avoid.
Usually the dealer will work with you if he feels you are being realistic and not jumping off the cliff over a low tire or some such.
Ask him what's the procedure and let him know how you feel. You need him to want to help you. A week without your car won't do it. Also it depends greatly on just what the defect is.
Safety related defects get their attention much faster. I would think that a tranny jumping out of gear would be safety related.
A "TSB" is a "technical service bulletin." TSBs are posted to all Honda dealerships. They are NOT recalls, but generally identify common problems that a car company is seeing across an entire vehicle model. There are some places on the web where you can find a list of TSBs for certain models of cars - although they aren't generally released on any public database (that I know of).
If you come in with a complaint on a car, the dealership often first goes to the TSBs to see if it is a common problem to which the manufacturer has identified a solution. It could be anything from a rattling door panel to an engine tuning issue. I think it never hurts to ask your dealer about recent TSBs and specifically ask them to check your car. When I mentioned the TSB for slow acceleration to my dealer, he looked at me kind of annoyed and told me that all new Hondas had received the engine timing fix before being sold. Of course, later, he admitted that mine had "some how" not received that update. The squeeky wheel gets the greese!
Vehicle: 2008 Honda Accord
Summary:
DRIVER'S DOOR INTERMITTENTLY WON'T OPEN ON ACCORD 4 DOOR VEHICLES L4 AND V6. ( NHTSA ITEM NUMBER - 10025483 )
Vehicle: 2008 Honda Accord
Summary:
LOAD CARRYING CAPACITY REDUCED LABEL FOR ALL HONDA VEHICLES. ( NHTSA ITEM NUMBER - 10025523 )
If there was some class action lawsuit out there, you'd get a penny on the dollar and the lawyers would get the rest.
My 1996's roof has no such signs of paint peeling, etc, but many newer Accords from Gen VI sure do.
Mrbill
The newer WR formulas actually started long before 1998-2000. . . Also you will find that these newer coatings are superior by far to the ones they replaced.
The problems you are experiencing most likely were in the application process rather than the coating itself. Not knowing exactly what the problem is I couldn't even guess but I will say that it could be any number of things including a bad batch to problems with preperation, application, acid rain, equipment or just a hung over painter which is kinda unlikely since it was most likely a robot.
I work in a labratory for one of the biggest paint companies in the world. Part of my job is testing some of these coatings. I've worked in this business for about 40 years. I'm here to tell you that applied properly and on spec the coatings are as good or better than they have ever been.
Not to say that the "New Rules" haven't made it much tougher than it should be however.
The one negative comment I have is with the level of "orange peel" in the paint. Hondas used to have one of the smoothest, glossiest paint jobs of any manufacturer. Now what I see is equal to the rest, but not better. My old 88 Accord (with paint equal to my Dad's old 80 Accord) looked far better when parked next to my 04 Accord. Is this fault of Honda, or is it from the switch to water based paints?
Mrbill
I agree. . . The other day on TV no less was a comercial with a closeup of a new Corvette. I couldn't believe the level of OP. New Caddys, Mercs, on and on it's terrible I know.
My 08 Accord coupe (Red) has plenty as well but no where near as bad as I see every day.
From my point of view as a painter which I'm no expert even though I've worked in this field for 40 years there are kids out there that put me to shame. Anyway I have noticed how hard it is to let these newer coatings 'flow' without sagging or running. 'Color Sanding' is almost a necessity anymore for a 'perfect' paint job.
Sorry to drift OT . . . Now back to the topic at hand.
Can you explain to me when you had to deal with the lemon law why it was painful? Did you have to get an attorney to handle it or did the dealership work with you on this? How much out of pocket expense did this cost you? title? etc.....
Let me know when you have a free minute and again thanks for taking the time to respond to my current frustrating experience.
Signed
3rd and 4th Gear Popping
Accord Coupe v6EXLThanks for responding to my question on the TSB's and how to look for them.
My car is still in dealership and I was suppose to pick the car up yesterday but they advised that the part had not come in yet so the car would not be ready until Monday.
I spoke with the head of the service department at Wilde Honda in Waukesha,WI and he is willing to drive my car with me in the car along with another service manager when I pick the car up so I can point anything out to them that may not be right.
I feel like the dealership is trying to do everything they can to get this problem fixed.
I have advised them of my frustration of paying $32K for a car and having so many problems with the gearbox/transmission with gears popping out on 3rd and 4th gear.
I really hope the fix is for good this time on this accord 2008 v6exl 6 speed manual coupe. The fit and finish of the vehicle, comfort, styling, interior, exterior design have been excellent with no rattles so A+ to the engineers that worked on those areas of the car at Honda.
The interesting thing is that the both the 2001 Acura 3.2tl and the now the 2008 Accord Coupe EXLV6 w/navigation have both had transmission/gear problems and both were made in Marysville, Ohio.
The 1998 Prelude that I had was made in Japan and I had it for 45,000 miles and not one problem. Anyway that has been my experience; thus, Japan rocks they seem to be on top of it. :sick:
Thanks for time to write back and clarify.
I talked my friend into buying the 2008 4 cylinder Accord EXL coupe and he does not have any problems with it and averages 30-32 city/hwy driving and 33 on the highway and is very satisfied with the car with no problems at all. I really wish I could say the same.
Honda does an excellent job on four cylinder engines with the best in the industry, however I am not so sure about the v6's given my current and past experiences; thus, I am hoping Honda gearbox/transmission engineering department will win my confidence back.
Take care and have a great day.
Signed,
3rd and 4th Gear Popping Accord EXLV6 with navigation 6 speed manual :sick:
Has anyone had any problems with the paint on their 2008 Accord? Just bought a 2008 Accord LX-P (red) - there are little round spots on the roof paint that look sort of like the dealer left sap on the paint and it etched the clear coat. Others look like they are in the paint below. Dealer offered to color buff the roof, but I figure it's taking off paint. Should I just let it go and keep it well waxed, let him try to buff it out? The other alternative is to repaint - but it will probably not look the same??
David
Hard to say without looking at it. You might want to take it to a reputable detail shop to get their opinion.
If something is "in the paint", that would mean that it went through the clear coat. You might try using a very fine polish on one of the spots to see if any of it is removed.
Many car dealerships have been installing DE IONIZERS for their car wash to eliminate the spots. Hopefully that's all you have.
Mrbill
I also have a red Accord coupe (08). Build date was mid August and I bought it the last week in August. I looked real close at the finish and other than some orange peel it was fine. 3 days later I washed it by hand and noticed little white spots all over the paint. . . I know they weren't there when I brought her home and the car sat under cover those 3 days. I think it had about 40 miles on her at the time. . . I rubbed them out and then waxed it real well.
Let the dealer rub on it with instructions not to cut the paint. You might try a clay bar. . . They do very well at removing this stuff.
Now and then I still see those little white specs or dots. . . I have no idea. . . Could be anything from acid rain to tree sap. . .
They don't stay new long.
Not very neighborly. . . Might be one thing to sting the dealer but a private individual ?
I have already clay'ed the car - that's how I found the defects. I found a worse one when I clay'ed it again. This might be a painting defect. The problem I'm worried about is several years down the line - it will start peeling. I'm not happy about buffing them out since it thins the clear coat. If it is below the clear coat, then the buffing process removes the clear coat. I think the only real fix is repainting it, but I don't think it will be as good as the factory finish. I'm thinking of bring it back to the dealer and see what they can do after I try a little polishing compound. At least they will have a record that I did notice a problem.
It looks like tree sap, which eats the paint if it is not removed.
The white dots that other's mention I've seen on another person's older Honda. Those appear to be a paint defect. He only got rid of them after having to paint his car after it got in an accident.
May be I can post a picture of the problem - not sure if I can focus down that close.
I park under a tree every day and I get tree sap on it every day. I worry more about the hot sun than the tree sap. It washes off with plain water. . . I've done this for 40 years plus with no ill effects. Just keep her waxed.
You might color sand it then a new clear coat. . . Used to be that Reds, Blacks, Whites etc had no clear coat, only metallics. . . Not sure about todays coatings. . . I work in a labratory for one of the largest paint companies if not the largest but my expertise os wood and composite coatings not metal.
I thought I was out of the woods with oil consumption after the removal of breakin oil ----NOT so. I have 16500 miles on the car now and it consumes 1 quart every 3500 miles!!!
Using Castrol GTX 5-20 - dealer is escalating to Honda but have not really had any answer to the question of why. We have completed the Honda oil consumption test but Honda engineers dont respond with anything. Can you guys check your oil consumption or report back so I can get a clear picture that I am the only ONE out here with this issue.
Thanks so much
Roger
The system is electronically controlled, and uses special integrated spool valves that do double duty as rocker-shaft holders in the cylinder heads. Based on commands from the system's electronic control unit, the spool valves selectively direct oil pressure to the rocker arms for specific cylinders. This oil pressure in turn drives synchronizing pistons that connect and disconnect the rocker arms.
The above is an excerpt from a post I had made in the fuel economy forum. It seems as if Honda is using the engine lubrication oil also as a form of hydraulic oil.
I don't know if this could cause a consumption issue.
Let's keep in mind that before maintenance minders most of us changed our oil between 3,000-5,000 miles before any consumption would be noticed. Our manuals do state that we should check our oil level every time we fill up. I would venture a guess that their isn't a single owner that adheres to Honda's suggestion. Personally I check mine about every 1,000 miles and sometimes in the oddest places. I might be waiting for my wife to check out of a store and I'll check it in the parking lot and people look at you like you've got 3 heads, I mean c'mon a new vehicle and he's checking under the hood, whatever would he be doing that for? I'm just plain old school and fluid conditions and levels can tell you a lot about what's going on under the hood.
Roger
It's one thing not to check your oil once you know how your car acts between oil changes.
I check my oil weekly (typically before starting it in the morning when it is sitting in the same place each time) whenever I buy a new or new to me car. I check for leaks, under where the car sits at home and at work. I pay close attention to pressure gages if so equipped as well as odd smells, sounds etc.
Once I have a good idea of how the car operates over thousands of miles I might not open the hood between changes but I still look at where the car sat and do everything else but physically check the oil and all other fluid levels under the hood.
At oil change time I either check the oil before changing or visually check the amount drained from the crankcase.
In my mind there is nothing more important than at least knowing your car's habits when it comes to service items including brake linings, tread depth, coolant and other fluid levels.
I lost an engine one time in my youth from not paying attention to how low it was getting on oil. It only takes once.
btw. . . My new 4 cyl coupe just hit 3,000 miles today and the oil level is exactly where it was the day I brought it home. my fingers are crossed that she stays this way.
We have talked to the dealership about it and they say that they have never heard of the problem before.
When the weather starts to get colder, the tire pressure will be lower.
Undoubtedly you are a little low on one, (but pump up all) of your tires.
I've had that happen a couple of times in my 06. I think the radio only fades in and out but doesn't go out completely. I just turn the radio off and then back on and it is fine. As I said, very rare.
Other complaints- headrests are terrible. I have both of mine turned around which completely defeats their attempt to overengineer the things. AND, yes, the brakes have squeaked since week 2, but I got used to it.
Other than that, it's a great machine.
What we need to post is the email addresses for these factory people that decide when they will be responsible for their mistakes and when they won't. IMHO, disc brake pads should be engineered to last 36k miles. This 15k-20k miles is complete crap.
Have you suffered from any highway vibration or stuttering when cruising at certain speeds? Curious to know as there is an entire thread regarding that.
2008 Accord I4 Automatic Transmission LX
Problem, lights dim and blower for heater/defrost slows. It occurs every 20 to 25 seconds. The change in the blower for the heater/defrost is such that it sounds as if you turned the blower speed down significantly and then turned it back up. At the same time the lights dim significantly.
I have read many posts here of lights dimming with the A/C running and that Honda says this is normal.
This is not normal and is dangerous because of the eye strain caused by the lights dimming and then brightening over and over again.
Has anyone had Honda fix this problem?
If so, what was the fix so that I know what to say to my dealership when I take my vehicle in for repair?
Thank you.
http://www.safercar.gov/
My money is tight and my patience grows thin. I will replace it with something else and tell everyone I know what I think.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2201268&page=7
I kind of agree with Honda in that when the electrical load changes suddenly to that degree you will notice things like dimming lights etc. To me it is so brief and I know what is happening when it occurs. What I do when it does concern me is use a function that this does not occur.
Personally I don't care much for the auto function anyway. They certainly could change it so this happens less frequently but you might have a 4 or 5 degree temp change rather than the system trying to keep it so tight. . .
I understand how little things such as this can get on your nerves and as much as cars cost today you would think they would/should be perfect but the facts remain that they do have bugs related to functions they are asked to perform.
I appreciate your reply but I feel this is different. I too have noticed with most cars I have owned that the lights dim when the A/C compressor kicks in because that is a significant load on the system.