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Ford Ranger Stalling/Dying Problems

2

Comments

  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Member Posts: 15
    (www.carcomplaints.com)
  • freakrangerfreakranger Member Posts: 1
    i had the same problem out of my 94 ranger. i replaced the fuel filter, and the fuel pump, and know it works great, runs like a top.
  • rcmax64rcmax64 Member Posts: 1
    i own an 05 ranger edge 5 speed 165,000+ highway miles since new,had it cutout on inerstate at speed,reset fuel inertia, started up,on my way, randomly would do it again at idle usually, no sensors,relays,fuelpump or switches have been changed. i keep regular maintinance, oil, plugs, fuel filter.recently changed plug wires,cleaned iac with tooth brush&carb cleaner, i use a k&n air filter and DO NOT OVER OIL IT,after about 5-10 min of idling it get rough and start missing causing the enginelight to blink, if i would tap the throttle it would clean up and light would go out,seems new plugs&wires corrected that,however the stalling& cuttingout is getting worse,twice last week,and twice yesterday once was at a stoplight& secound just idling after a few mins,would not fire off till i reset inertia switch,sometimes it will be alittle hard to start takes an extra secound when temps are below 40. please help income is low and my payoff is in aug this yr. i luv the truck and want to keep it for a longtime.i owned an 85 for 12yrs put well over 300,000 on it with slight coil issues in hot fl weather but ran ford tough.

    thanks for any help , rcmax
  • jjsandovaljjsandoval Member Posts: 1
    I have a ranger with the 2.3L 8 plug, I have seen that many people with the same engine is having a stalling problem and so am I. I have change all the sensors except the pcm or the computer.
    It runs great on the fwy or once you get going. its when you take off it wants to stall and you have to give it gas so that it wont turn off, at the same time when this happens i can see a small amount of black smoke and i give it gas so that it wont turn off, any hints or any successful repair that will take care of this problem
  • jgandme2jgandme2 Member Posts: 6
    Been having some problems with rough idle and stalling while sitting still. Hasn't been running clean and smooth for quite a while and I couldn't find a problem.
    A couple weeks ago just by chance I checked The "Mass Air Flow Sensor". That was it !! Problem solved now it's running like new again.

    The mass Air Flow Sensor is located at the out end of your air filter cover. The thing is held in by two torques screws. Simply remove the two screws and remove it. It's a silver and black plastic box with a plug on the end of it. It's function is to sense the amount of air passing through it and send the information to the "Brain Box" which programs the fuel injection system with the right amount of air. Because it is on the clean air side of the air filter it can collect fibers from the filter itself, it also collects dust particles and pollen. When it is plugged up the brain box sends the wrong information to the fuel injectors resulting in a poor running truck. Here is a couple of hints to help you. Don't try to unplug the wire till you remove the unit. PUSH down on the plug release (don't pull) to remove the wires plugged into it. Here's the big one.....Use the right cleaner, buy a can of Mass Air Flow Injector cleaner and read the instructions on the can. It costs about $8 a can at O Reileys or Auto Zone. Let the sensor dry compleatly before you re-install it. After the first start the truck might throw a code (engine lite) If it does, no problem. Remove the negative wire from the battery, wait about 15 minuets then hook it back up. Re-set your clock start the truck and you're finished. Mass Air Flow Sensors should be cleaned everytime you change your air filter. It takes about 10 minuets total time and it's worth the effort. On the can of cleaner they claim 4-10 more horsepower at the wheels with a clean MAFsensor compared to a dirty one. Expect a smoother cleaner running engine also. 4-10 more horses also translates into fuel savings. This is a little job worth doing on any fuel injected vehicle not just the Rangers.

    PS: My Ranger is a 2004 Edge with the small V-6. Yours may be slightly different. The MAF Sensor will be the first sensor in line on the out flow of your air breather box.
  • jgandme2jgandme2 Member Posts: 6
    I should share a couple more things about the Mass Air Flow Sensor. First, On the metal side, the silver side, there are four small holes in the metal at different locations. Make sure you blow the cleaner thru the holes to make sure they are clean. Inspect the sensor an make sure you have cleaned all the inside vents and holes, there are inlets in front and both sides. Clean the inside of the plug also. Don't forget to clean the plug under the hood that plugs into the sensor. Put a rag under it while you spray to catch the overflow. That stuff will ignite on a hot engine.

    Lastly check your exhaust pipe. Mine had a lot of soot built up on the tip of the pipe both inside and out, an obvious indication of an engine that is running rich ( to much ) fuel and and air mixture. Clean it up with a old rag and watch it for awhile The inside of the pipe should not be full of black built up soot, It should be kind of clean with a grey color inside.
  • hrehahreha Member Posts: 1
    try starting it and wiggeling the harness next to the under hood fuse block mine had rubbed against the bracket for the fuse block and had cut the power wire for the relay in to. it fixed my prob and no more swapping relays.
  • jgandme2jgandme2 Member Posts: 6
    See my post re: mass air flow sensor. Sounds like what mine was doing. It never quit but It was running really rich making it run poor and die at stoplights and idled poor all the time. Eazy to fix, actually just clean it. Easy Easy Easy.
  • honeyman2honeyman2 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 87 ranger with v6 fuel injection .It runs grear for awhile then seems to overfuel on at least 2 clys.or miss really bad If i keep pushing the gas it will keep running but if not it may quit. It will start right back up but do the same thing again ,I have changed what i thought may be the ptoblem so need some more advice from you all Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Bad (leaking) injectors?
  • honeyman2honeyman2 Member Posts: 8
    After lots of trail and error I found the cause to be the fuel air motor ( really not a motor but called one )got one for 10 bucks at salavge yard and now runs great .
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Idle air valve?
  • honeyman2honeyman2 Member Posts: 8
    Back to the drawing board .Engine ran great for about 200 miles and now starting the same ole stuff.It seems to be overloading on fuel.You drive it 55 and when you level out and let up on pedal it seems to start missing .If you keep adding fuel it will still go good but if you idle it may just quit .Start right back up but who wants that when Im sure it can be fixed Thanks JIM
  • jgandme2jgandme2 Member Posts: 6
    Sounds like the problem I had. Difference is mine is a 3.0 V6. I'm thinking you have a vacume leak. Run out all the lines and find it if you can. Are you dripping oil and/or water (anti freeze)down the back of the engine? If so you may have a blown intake manifold gasket. Won't idle for crap but runs on the freeway but poor mileage. Will suck air when driving and may drip oil or water when parked.

    1. Clean the Mass Air flow sensor
    2. Replace throttle control sensor $30
    3. clean pvc valve
    4 find and fix vac leak
    5 find vac leak in the intake manifold gasket upper or lower

    Has to be one of these things. Try looking down the back of the engine with a mirror and flashlight for oil leak--listen for hissing vac leak
  • fordman2000fordman2000 Member Posts: 2
    edited April 2011
    i have a 1995 ford ranger super cab 4x4 , it keeps stalling,it idles a little funny, i put new plugs in same results, it seems to be like choke it self off.when i slow down or turn.but it has power when you drive. have now glue :(
  • fordman2000fordman2000 Member Posts: 2
  • rgladuergladue Member Posts: 2
    Meaning it wont turn over or just clicks?
  • rgladuergladue Member Posts: 2
    Do you have good spark? If you do its either fuel delivery or an electronic issue. Does your truck have a crank sensor?
  • jgandme2jgandme2 Member Posts: 6
    It sounds like you have a major vacume leak. PCV valve stuck?
  • twaldron07twaldron07 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '95 Ranger XLT Super Cab V6 4.0L. I just replaced the battery, and the positive cable because it was corroded. So the next morning I went out to start it and nothing. I turn the key, and nothing happens. It doesn't turn over, dash lights don't turn on, and power windows and locks don't work. There's absolutely no power. It baffles me. I REFUSE to take this to a mechanic. I just need a little help. Oh, and both starter and alternator were replace a few years ago.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, to do any electrical checking, you need multimeter and a little knowledge about how to use it.
  • ballenxballenx Member Posts: 1
    Sometimes when I start my ranger the rpms wont get up to where they should be and then my truck sputters and stalls out... i have to keep revving the engine to try to keep it going and i have no idea why...if anyone knows what could be wrong and could help that would be great....also when i drive there is some squealing noise that idk what that is either
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    First wild guesses on each:
    -Failing/weak fuel pump. It's inside the fuel tank. A gauge can be attached to the fuel line under the hood to check the pressure. Low pressure means a weak pump.
    -Belt slipping.

    There are multiple other things that could cause each problem.
  • kbean1kbean1 Member Posts: 1
    Hey I know how it is to have that problem. I was having the same thing and it was my spark plug and wires. If I was you I would do that first.
  • aries1950aries1950 Member Posts: 2
    under dash board is a censore or something similair push on top of it like you do a lawn mower before you start it and it will start.This is my fix for my ford ranger dying while driving..
  • sentra2002sentra2002 Member Posts: 5
    My security guards all use 05 ford rangers this problem typically happens when the gas tank gets below half a tank the fuel pump begins to weaken out and eventually over heat and fail. it might be pricey to always fill the tank before half but it beats cost repairs of mechanics. btw our trucks are well over 100k so i wouldnt doubt my mechanics cause that does make sense
  • tennvol865tennvol865 Member Posts: 2
    my 2001 ford ranger v6 3.0 liter idles just a little funny sometimes a little high sometimes a little low. when im in nuetral and rev the engine it sounds great but when i put it in gear it sputters and jumps some as i drive. Ive changed plug wires, fuel filter, cleaned the mass flow sensor and im fixing to replace the throttle position sensor. so far nothing has worked. oh yea ive also did away with the catalytic converters and that didnt help. please does anyone know what else i can do?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Maybe a vacumn leak?
  • tennvol865tennvol865 Member Posts: 2
    havent checked yet. thank you ill try to run down the vacuum lines tomorow. someone also suggested coil pack any thoughts?
  • derrel57derrel57 Member Posts: 2
    I'VE GOT A 92 RANGER WITH A 3.0, ITS 2 WHEEL DRIVE, AUTOMATIC, IT WILL RUN GOOD TILL THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON THE IT FLUIDS ITSELF OUT BAD. ANY IDEAS...........
  • derrel57derrel57 Member Posts: 2
    Ive got a 92 ranger that is loading up bad when the check engine lite comes on? the ecm tells the injectors to stay on. I've checked it over and over with a scaner. got nothing, any ideas
  • jon04rangerjon04ranger Member Posts: 1
    My 04' Ford Ranger suddenly sputtered then stalled on my way home from work and wouldn't start again, it was like it ran out of gas. So I replaced the fuel filter. It started right up and ran for about 15 minutes then died again and wouldn't start. The next morning it did the same thing started fine, ran for 10-15 minutes then died and wouldn't start. I pulled the fuel line and it had very low pressure so I replaced the fuel filter. Now it won't start at all and I'm not getting a spark from the spark plugs. I've changed the coil pack, reset and then bypassed the fuel pump shut-off switch, checked the ignition switch fuse, the fuel pump relay, starter fuse and relay, and every other applicable fuse/relay. I'm now stumped and do not know what the problem could be.
  • jgandme2jgandme2 Member Posts: 6
    Sounds like you need a new/rebuilt brain box. Take the box in and have it checked out. My guess is that it's dead and thats why you don't get any spark at the plugs.
  • sammie71121sammie71121 Member Posts: 4
    We got my 91 ford ranger about a year ago, and for a few months it has on and off had an issue with sputtering and stalling when we first start it. You will hear the engine working very hard and it will shake the truck and then boom, truck turns off. First time it happened it was right after we had the first full tank of gas in a looong time, had been running it until it died from no gas(we are broke), so we replaced the fuel pump hoping we had just clogged it. It didnt happen for awhile after that but then the last month it started happening again.

    Keep in mind, it will do it once, and then we will restart it, and its fine,like it never happened.

    Well, my fiance was driving it to work this morning on the freeway and it did the same thing twice. only difference, it was while he was already driving. It took him awhile, but he got it to start and got it back home.Had to call into work. This is his work truck so we are really worried about fixing this or he doesnt have a job any more.

    No money to get it diagnosed. Any ideas??
  • atomicthunkatomicthunk Member Posts: 4
    Engine will start and run for about 10 -20 minutes, then stalls. I will not re start but if I wait a couple of hours, it will re start without a problem. While engine is running, it runs good with no missing. Have changed the coil packs, plug wires and plugs, ICM, fuel filter, fuel pump(what a pain) fuel pump relay, ignition relay. . Is there a second fuel pump for this engine? Other than the ECU(computer) is there any other parts or sensors that have a history of failing after they heat up. My next step my be to buy a new computer but I hate to spend big bucks if others had this problem and found the fix.
  • rklinerkline Member Posts: 1
    It has been a while since youve posted this, but if you are still having the problem timming may be your issue.
  • bozo4fordbozo4ford Member Posts: 7
    86 Ranger 2.3 - Gas will not keep engine running.

    Hello fellow ford rangers out there.....
    Ok...here we go again. I'm still having issues, but it's intermittent. Last year I got the relays or something wet that prevented the car from starting, then I thought it all dried out, but had to replace a few things.
    1986 Ford Ranger / 2.3 EFI / 140 CID OHC /4-Cyl/5 speed

    So the last time I was here, I was having doggy issues which I thought were fuel related. I'm still having issues, although it appeared to cleared up a bit.

    When I start the engine, it cranks over, I'd give it some gas, it would rev up, then suddenly die, no matter if I pressed down on the gas pedal or not. After two or three times doing this, it would turn over and maintain a steady idle, then off I go.........

    The problem now?
    Well, late today I tried to get it going, and after about 15 times, I gave up. It would not stay idling, it would crank over then die. I did not want to ruin the starter. It seems the gas pedal is worthless after the engine decides to conk out, and no matter how many times I step on the gas pedal, nothing happens.

    It would be so pleasant if I could get close to pinpointing this cause, instead of playing the expensive process of elimination game. I DO realize what a long shot that would be, for someone to just tell me, "Hey, dude, check your ##$@&&, that's definitely your problem!", but life seems never to be easy.

    Has been replaced within the last few months:
    Fuel filter regulator,
    Inline fuel filter,
    Cap and rotor,
    Lucas fuel injector cleaner,
    ECC computer, and Fuel relay switches, (multi-function relay/connector switch)
    Idle Air Control Valve - Removed and Cleaned.
    Checked all vacuum hoses.

    Has not been replaced:
    Map Sensor,
    EGR Valve and sensor,
    Throttle Position Sensor,
    EVP sensor,
    Spark plugs, (two years ago)
    Plug wires, (two years ago)
    Ignition control module, (replaced about six years, or more)

    So, I can sure use some help from anyone who experienced these symptoms, and what did you do to correct the problem?

    With trying to keep the gas going to turn it over, it does not, so to me, it seems to be more of a fuel problem than electrical, but I'm no mechanic. Thank you for any help! :-)
    :confuse:
  • rerangerreranger Member Posts: 2
    Hello bozo4ford,

    One thing you can check is your fuel shutoff switch, usually located at the top of your carpeting on the passenger side floorboard. Check to see if the switch is bad or if you have a melted wire harness leading to the switch. I have had similar issues ( not exact) and i found a melted wire harness at the base of this switch. $75 at a local junkyard and the problem was fixed. Its worth a look, hope this helps.
  • tfejerantfejeran Member Posts: 1
  • bozo4fordbozo4ford Member Posts: 7
    Thanks!

    I did tap and clicked on the Inertia or Rollover swith on the passenger's floor. This could be anything.

    Well, after a week of painful neck and shoulder pain, (Doc said it was osteoarthritis, that and sleeping on pillow wrong) I'm finally back on computer. Did not have time to do anything with my truck. I'm still in a little pain, but I'm trying to pinpoint the cause of my truck not running. it cranks, but does not turn over.

    Some one told me over the weekend NEVER use fuel injection cleaner in this old 26 year old truck, because he sez, it can muster up all the contaminates and clog places where the fuel could not get to the injectors. it was LUCAS DEEP CLEAN Fuel System cleaner. I added this to a full tank of gas back in February, so this may or may not have anything to do with my problem.

    The mechanic told me he found metal shavings in the inline fuel filter, he told me that the pump might be breaking down after 26 years. So I think I'll have him replace the pump. I am not a mechanic, nor do I have any test gauges, etc., so I am at the ''honest'' mechanics mercy.
  • oldrangerdudeoldrangerdude Member Posts: 1
    My 1993 Ranger (4.0L V6) was stalling when hard breaking (60 Km to 0 Kms) restart no probs. Replaced Throttle Position Sensor and Air Bypass Valve Sensor and cleaned Throttle body with no correction to problem ... today replaced Fuel Filter (cheap comparably to other replaced parts) seems to have corrected problem, will still hesitate but does not stall. Perhaps if same issues try Fuel Filter first.
  • kopfhunterkopfhunter Member Posts: 7
    My 94 ranger just went over 200,000. Now, I only drive it about 300 miles a month.

    Had a problem a couple of weeks ago where it sputtered wouldn't accelerate or die. Mechanic replaced Ignition Module.

    Ran great for about 7 miles and then it died, while I was driving.

    Now, driving down the road at any speed the truck will just die out but it does not have any problem of starting up and driving on.

    It happens every 5 to 20 miles, as I've tracked it for about 150 miles and it's happened 10 times.

    Mechanic is at a loss. he did switch out the Ignition Module to make sure that wasn't the problem.

    He's suggesting the most reasonable problem is probably the Crank Sensor. The issue is that it's not easy to get to. So having already spent $400, I'm looking at at least another $400 to try something that might or might not be the problem.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks
  • kopfhunterkopfhunter Member Posts: 7
    I know this is three years old but I'm having the EXACT problem, which is unique to ALL the other problems posted here.

    "driving down the road at any speed the truck will just die out. restart with no problem and then continue for another 5 to 20 miles before it happens again"

    I'm curious from rick2343 if the Crank Sensor fixed his problem.

    Also curious what CAD NORTHSTAR is as that's what insanetang suggested.
  • atomicthunkatomicthunk Member Posts: 4
    I know this might sound strange, but my son's 94' had the same problem. We were getting a bunch of codes, most having to do with the EGR system, but once those were cleared, it was still having the same kind of problems you were having. We changed all the normal things, wires, fuel pump, fuel filter ,plugs but nothing seem to improve it. We found that it was the ignition module, but after installing a new one, it would die sort of like the problem you are having. After many hours( days ) of trial and error, I found that for some reason the ignition module did not like being mounted and bolted down in it's original position. It has to be grounded to work, so I just attached a ground wire using a nut and bolt in one of the mounting holes in the module and used cable ties to sort to position the module up and out of the way. For some reason this worked. The trucks been running great the last 6 months. The only thing I can figure is that one of the two cable assy. going to the ignition module has either a short or and open that is corrected by having the cables in a different position. Hope this info helps, cause I went through hell chasing this problem and nothing seemed to make sense. I'm pretty sure if you have a problem with the crank sensor that it would not start at all. Good Luck
  • bozo4fordbozo4ford Member Posts: 7
    edited December 2012
    Well, let me tell you about my 1986 Ranger. I had similar problems, but I ended up cleaning the AIC, replacing in-line fuel Filter, fuel pressure regulator, new Fuel and computer relays, and a new TFI Control module. Plugs and wires, cap, and rotor, etc. Another problem was my Ignition Starter switch broke inside the steering column and that made a lot of difference to me...anyway.

    I was the original owner of this truck...until someone clipped from my drivers side rear, threw into a Pit maneuver, and a 180 spin, just 'totaled' my truck about two weeks ago. I almost replaced my Pass side interior kick wall computer, but thankfully, did not before this happened, and saved 100.00. It was not the problem anyway.

    Now for a 86' ranger, the wreck yard offered me $350.00, and Loss of vehicle close to $2400.00, so for a 26 year old 'wrecked" truck, I should count my blessings! Now the task of trying to find a replacement truck, and hopefully, not inheriting other people problems. Good luck to you. I know it seems daunting having to play the process of elimination game, but sadly, that's what you might have to do. reading codes helps the process.
  • blackwiddow05blackwiddow05 Member Posts: 1
    Your over thinking this, do u have a vacuum gauge? Hook it up to egr and watch it, if you don't press the diagram in/up with your finger and see if it dies. Iac is a good guess but don't buy a new one just take yours off and clean it with carb cleaner. Does your truck have the egr that tuns through the throttle body....I would use carb cleaner and a toothbrush and clean the body plate. Last when it it dying spay some carb cleaner in a vacuum port at intake and other end blocked off and see if that helps, then u know its an air fuel problem. Also obd1 codes will disappear but if your quick u can catch them. Then write them down and disconnect batt for ten min to clear and see if they come back. Hope this helped
  • kopfhunterkopfhunter Member Posts: 7
    I hate when people don't come back on and say what fixes or doesn't fix a problem or ....

    I'm still having problems with my 94 Ranger. It still dies but it could be 2 miles or 100 miles. Can't replicate the problem.

    When it stalls, (as the truck is moving - it's a stick) I put in the clutch, put it in nuetral, turn it off, restart, put it in gear and let the clutch off. Takes about 10 seconds and I typically don't lose any speed.

    It's been 6 months and I still don't feel like I have a handle on it enough to have my mechanic do anything. (I've only driving 1,800 miles in that time)

    He wanted to replace the main sensor (?) would would have been $400+ I really don't think that's the issue.

    I still believe it's connected to the Ignition Module some how and it could be the grounding.

    It doesn't happen when it's idealing and can't be recreated by the mechanic.

    I don't want to jinx it but I've driven for a week and it hasn't stalled. Maybe it's fixed (probably not)

    Anyone with any more thoughts?
  • breakdown2breakdown2 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same issue. I'm driving a 95 tho. I was also told it might be the sensor. I am taking into a shop Monday to have it looked at. Thank goodness I know the dude, so if he can fix it, he allows me to make payments. So, I'll let you know if the sensor thing worked, or whatever worked if he can fix it.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The fuel pump relay might be causing this problem. The relay can be bad, and sometimes the relay connectors needs to be cleaned up where it plugs into the fuse box. Many times there are a couple of relays in there that are the same and you could just switch the relays. But clean up the connectors in any case. The relay are in the fuse box under the hood.

    There is also a fuel cutoff switch. This switch cuts off the fuel pump if the truck rolls over. This switch is under the carpet, just to the right of the 'tunnel', at the top of the carpet, in the passenger footwell. There is a button on the top to reset it. It probably does not need to be reset, because if it was tripped the truck would not start. But the connectors on this switch might also be loose. Check it.

    And, the fuel pump might be weak, and not putting out enough pressure to really power the injectors. Or the fuel filter might be somewhat clogged and needs to be replaced. It is on the frame, under the drivers door. If you pull the lines on this thing, fuel will leak out. Use a pencil to push into the fuel line to block it off. Do not work on fuel stuff inside a garage, gasoline loves to explode.
  • atomicthunkatomicthunk Member Posts: 4
    Worked on my son's 94 ranger that had the same problem. It took me forever to find the problem. Knew it was something to do with the ignition module, but all the modules we tried tested good out of the truck. What finally fixed the problem was not mounting the ignition module in it's original location. I used cable ties to mount it in a different location and ran a ground wire from the module to a good ground. The only thing I can figure is that somewhere in cables there is an open and by the cables being routed different, the open closed and the problem went away. It's been over a year now and it only stalled once, I just had to re-adjust ( tighten) the cable ties, still running good.
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