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Ford Ranger Stalling/Dying Problems
1999 Ranger XLT 3.0L Automatic 77,000 miles
It started tonight and at first cut off a couple of times then it started happening more frequent while driving. All of the lights and everything stay on. There has been no check engine light, etc.
See also: How to find a good mechanic
It started tonight and at first cut off a couple of times then it started happening more frequent while driving. All of the lights and everything stay on. There has been no check engine light, etc.
See also: How to find a good mechanic
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3 litre V6 5speed manual. Have changed fuel pump because CTC mechanic said fuel pressure was too low, nothing changed. Then they said there was a possible NO SPARK situation or maybe even the computer was faulty.So figuring these guys were going to try leading me around by the nose, i pulled truck out of shop.
At home i tried starting it myself by spraying Quick-start into intake. truck will run til i stop spraying. there is fuel at fuel rail (don't now name but looks like tire valve) .
also did change coil pak just to be sure , also new battery.
HAS ALWAYS TURNED OVER QUITE WELL BUT STILL WILL NOT RUN. EXCEPT WHILE SPRAYING QUICK-START INTO INTAKE.
THANX AGAIN FOR HELP
FOR THOSE WHO CARE CTC IS PROBABLY IN COMPARISON TO AUTOZONE BUT IS IN CANADA - NATION WIDE AND READY TO RIP YOU OFF!!
Any ideas will be helpful because I am at the end of my knowledge. Thank you.
Does anyone know anything about this? Sound familiar?
I'll be taking it back into the shop shortly but after reading the manual and the above threads I'm thinking that the problem is definitely fuel related. Mabey the inertia switch but I'm more inclined to believe the fuel filter or fuel pressure regulator or one of the two fuel pumps (there are two: a high pressure and a low pressure pump). Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment to check this stuff....... I'll keep you guys posted. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I'm giving up, donating it to a charitable org. and taking it off on my taxes for this year.
Better luck with yours.
Had it towed home to work on it myself because I cannot afford to fix it in a garage. So I took my electronic tester and checked the fuse panel and all the fuses are ok, checked the diode in the fuse panel and it is OK,then went on to the EEC relay and it is Ok, and even replaced it with new one, and checked the fuel injection relay and it is Ok.
So that must make the crankshaft positon sensor?And the coil pack?Is their an ignition control module?Where would it be located?
Any help appreciated.
THankyou
Better possibility is that messing with the filter left a connection open between the air filter and the MAS, letting air and dust in.
And, I did not know a bad MAS would suddenly totally kill a motor. I can see making it run badly, and giving bad milage, but kill a motor? Maybe a bad MAS where the little wire/s inside totally broke would shut a car down. This would be a defective MAS, not a filter problem coating the wire with dust.
The symptoms you describe sound more like a Crank Position Sensor failure. These will kill a car instantly. And if it is an intermident failure, the car will restart, until the failure becomes complete.
Overall, sounds like it could be a BS from a service writer. Look at your receipt, see if they charged for a MAS or Crank Sensor. I do hope that whatever they did keeps you up and running.
The Ranger acts like it isn't getting fuel and I have to keep the engine revved up to keep it from stalling. Once I get it rolling, it still bucks and jumps occasionally. I'm living on a very tight fixed income so I can't just drive it to a garage and have it diagnosed with the computer error codes.
Is changing the fuel filter or 02 sensor worth a try, or should I wait until I can have a computer put on it?
A fuel filter replacement might help.
At 7 years old, you might also need new plug wires and/or plugs.
At about this age, on my 94 I started to hear ignition noise over the radio, even the FM radio. It only had about 50,000 miles, but it was about 7 or so years old. The truck still ran fine, but when you hear ignition noise on the radio, you have to know the wires are breaking down. A new set of wires and plugs stopped the noise.
after a new set of plugs and wires she runs great again and gas mileage jumped from 15 mpg up to 19 mpg overnight.
only when is hot outside is when truck stalled and rough idle
any suggestions..
thanks
felix
felix
Mas Airflow Sensor.Runs great now,NO miss!
Fuel pump itself is going bad and dropping fuel pressure.
There is a 'rollover' fuel cutoff sensor which may be going bad. Its under the edge of the carpet on the right side (passenger) of the 'tunnel'. It's also got a reset button on top of it. Check connections here.
There is a crank position sensor. If it goes bad, the truck stops dead. This is a problem on certain years of Cadillacs - when it fails, it fails so fast the car will not set error code, but it will crank and run later.
Just a few wild guesses......
[ 1986 Ford Ranger/2.3L gas/5 speed OD/128,745 Miles/ California ]
Ok, This is my "unlucky every other year" SMOG TEST ONLY where I diligently replace my air filter,spark plugs, cap and rotor, (fuel cap, if needed).
The night before doing these changes, I drove to the auto wash stall where I waited for my engine to cool down before spraying Gunk Engine Brite, to clean, to make my work a little more enjoyable, and yes, I did cover the distributor coil, distributor cap, and any other components I did not want to get wet. I was very careful not to use extreme pressure around the aluminum, bendable manifold tubing, which could easily break and water would get down into the engine. I've done the same thing every other year since this SMOG TEST ONLY came into effect without any problems before. (California)
The day after, I took a drive to the store about a mile away and noticed an extreme stalling where I had to keep gas revved up so it wouldn't stall. I could come to a light signal, and without the gas to the pedal, it would just die. I was really afraid I’d get stuck there.
I don't remember doing anything out of the ordinary this time, except TWO THINGS, (1) the plugs I bought were Autolite Platinum (AP5145) and were supposed to be pre-gapped to .44, and I checked only one, which was fine. and (2) A few days earlier I bought a 12oz. can of OCTANE BOOST gas additive I added to half a gas tank. I know it's bad to use these additives ,but on occasion, I usually go with a fuel injector additive. I am the original owner of this truck, and have been told it's only worth $500.00, so what can I lose, but thinking about it now, these 4-banger trucks don't do good with the higher octane, that's why the REGULAR gas is better than the PREMIUM, Ummmmm....could this be one of the problems? Maybe I should filler up right away to "water down" that octane booster...don't know what the heck I was thinking????? :eyes:
A few years ago, I did replace my fuel relay switch, and maybe a fuel sensor, but believe me, this truck was running much better before I did all this replacement of the Cap, Rotor, and plugs. The (expensive) spark plug wires I bought two years ago and they looked fine inside each plug wire.
So for the life of me, I don't know where to look, because this could turn out to be a costly and timely process of elimination. Any ideas?
So I guess I should always check my spark gap, regardless of what I buy. How long should the Fuel sensor or relay last? I will go check my vacuum lines and firing order on the dist. cap.
Sorry about the winded reply, I'll post back after I do these tasks. Do you think I have to remove the plugs again and recheck the gaps? Thanks again!
I called the auto parts store and they told me those plugs and Cap/Rotor are the correct application..BUT he told me to pull the plugs and check to see if the tips are either real black or white, fouled out because of the concentrated octane booster in a half of tank of gas.
ALSO, Instead of autolite (AP5145) Platinum plugs, I should have gone with Motorcraft, not autolite.
Any would be much appreciated. Thank you! Have a great day! :thumb:
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bozo4ford
Post subject: Re: 1986 Ranger 2.3L Pre smog test R&R Plugs, now stalling out??
PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 1:48 pm
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Truck: 1986 Ford Ranger
Update Monday FEB. 8th, 1:00PM PST -
I pulled each of the autolite plugs and did not notice any white or black carbon, checked the gap,1,2,and 4th plug was gapped to .44, but the #3 plug was more than .44. A few years back I also replaced my distributor module with a FORD part.
I looked at the dist. coil plug wire and noticed some green oxidation on the coil tip, got some sandpaper, rolled it up, and stuck it inside the coil plug to clean the terminal inside, blew it out with air...that was a few days ago, and now it was more oxidation, could that mean I should try to replace just the Dist coil plug wire? I certainly don't want to buy all new plug wires.
There is a module that is on a metal slider between the air filter assembly and the truck body with a Black base with a white top connector w/4 wires ( 2 red,1 yellow,and one black) coming from a harness,and into that connector,(Part Number #E98b-2C013...I think) which the wires going into this piece looks pretty corrosive,and the locking connector with the (I think) fuel relay looks fine. is there anyway to get just the harness side, clip the 4 wires and replace this assembly piece" I took a picture,but no way to post the pic here.
In the same area, between the air filter assembly and the side of the truck next to a rectangular part # E7EF9F479-A2A, which I think is the Sensor Assembly for the manifold Absolute pressure module) is another one of these boxes with a Blue-ish green base and a black top with 1Black,3 yellow, and 1 red wire. There are no numbers on this.
So I'm tooling around looking for what might be a problem causing all this stalling and rough idling....I'll check in periodically. Thanks!
Sunday 2- 14-2010
The way I originally had the plugs to the distributor
towers is what I have now.
TOP LEFT (around 10 or 11 o'clock position) # 4
TOP RIGHT # 2 (around 1 o'clock)
BOTTOM RIGHT #1
BOTTOM LEFT (7 or 8 o'clock position) is # 3.
It’s getting spark, it’s turning over and runs and self idles for about 35 – 45 Seconds before it stalls out. I think maybe I’m over-thinking this.
I think the timing is ok, because I don’t think the engine would continue to run if timing was bad.
My next guess maybe would be the gas. At present, I’m about on empty. As I previously mentioned, I added some Octane booster to a half tank of gas, and never filled it up all the way, maybe the Octane stuff loosened some gunk up and is clogging the fuel line, or worse, messed up the injectors.
I’m going to get a gas can and go get some fresh gas to add.
I thought this truck had two fuel filters, one in-line and the other somewhere in the engine
Compartment. I called pep Boys and Kragen and both told me there is only one, in the Rail, but maybe I will need to go to a mechanic,because the Chilton book sounds involved for just the lay person.
1986 Ford Ranger 2.3L
EFI
4-Cyl. 5 Speed OD /
Mileage – 151,4672
I'm still getting the stalling after about 35-40 seconds after I start the truck. I started up the truck,ran over and disconnected the electrical solenoid of the iacv and sure enough the truck died instantly.
Hopefully, the EGR is fine since it passed Smog, meaning it would not have not passed smog if something was wrong with it, but does the EGR have anything to do with the stalling out after a short time?
Thankfully, it kept running yesterday long enough for the smog tech to do his job, but now I'm back to this stalling again.
That code reading machine to check codes, would I understand the codes,and will the codes still show up on this 24 year old truck?
For now, that $30.00 for that machine could go towards a new iacv if that would be the next suspect in this process of elimination. Still not sure,and really can't afford to take it to a mechanic if he's going to charge me $100.00 to test it,then the part and labor to put it in, which I can do myself.
IACV varies in costs, and not sure if I should stay with the FORD Part >
FORD DEALER - $103.04,
THE BOYS OF PEP - $109.00, (Can't believe they're a little bit higher than FORD)
& AUTOZONE - $60.00
So if it isn't the PCV, EGR, or TFI Module, this stalling has everything to do with my 24 year old iacv? (or idle air bypass)
I have been told it could be a PVC, EGR, or a vacuum hose. I did remove the IACV (air bypass) cleaned it with carb cleaner, replaced it and it did run better than before, but little better, so maybe that has to be replaced after 24 years, maybe not.
When I start the truck in the morning, it has a hard time keeping an idle unless I press down on the gas, then after about ten minutes, it seems to idle a little better, and when I run it on the freeway, it runs like nobody's "bidniz".
I've been to Autozone and Pep boys looked at their Haynes repair books on the location of that PVC valve, but no one knows where it is on my truck. is it on the drivers side, all the way back behind the throttle body, close to the engine wall/windshield, below the vacuum tree somewhere?
1986 Ranger / 140 CID/ 2.3 EFI gas/ 4 Cyl. 5-speed / 151,473 Miles