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I have found over the years, that the "only" time I have failed alternators is after I've used the vehicle to jump other vehicles. On vehicles that I've never used for jumping, they never had a problem.
I've stopped carrying jumper cables and being so outwardly helpful to others, and if I have a problem with one of my vehicles around the house here, I only use a battery charger instead of a jump. I've not had a failure since.
The other thing to check, is to make sure all of your electrical connections are free from corrosion, and tight. Look for corrosion up inside the main cables, peel back the insulation a little to check that you don't have corrosion up inside the cables.
Put your left foot on the floor, move it to the left...... and it will hit the kick panel on the side.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
You have to look very closely at the dual filament bulbs. What can happen is one of the filaments burns out and breaks, and then lays across the other filament, causing weird problems. Look closely at the intensity of the bulb brightness, to make sure the correct filament is being lit.
Thank you.
When you say 'tune up', do you mean oil change? You certainly shouldn't be doing engine tuneups on 15K mile intervals.
Did you get anybody to check out your brakes?
How frequent should the tuneup be?
Can send one softcopy, if need be.
It also has the maintenance to be done, at different mileage marks, (like 80K, 100K, etc)
I will send you the file to Debbie68@carspace.com
Go to Edmunds Home, then their is a link up at the top right to carspace. Click the link, and go to your mailbox.
What did you get?
plus of course, fixing anything that is a problem....like your brakes.
Tune up is only plug change but some plugs (platinum) last at least 50 thousand miles. No such thing as a tune up anymore. Some mechanic might know to clean the throttle plate with an approved cleaner or you will wipe off the protection coating on this part. That is about it for tune up. Buy an air filter every 30 thousand miles or as required by the manual.
Are you a V6 or four cylinder? Also do you drive in cold climates and dirty roads? This effects the maintenance on your car.
Purch. 97 Toyota Camry - water pump had seized, shredded belt. Replaced both as well as plugs & wires. Bottom end is fine. Checked upper end of engine, had lots of build up on tops of pistons, etc. - cleaned all. Resurfaced valves & seats, etc. Have it all back together - getting fuel, but only 1 or 2 sparks on first crank (with #1 plug out to test), then no fire at all on subsequent cranking. Can let it set for a day, then get same response. Tried replacing distributor, (was told it could be the problem) - get same results.
Have been told it could be crank sensor or the "module". Need test procedures/advice for testing crank sensor & module, and any other testing/troubleshooting anyone can suggest. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Dave
Checked the crank sensor w/OHM meter - it tested okay. Anything else I can/should check?
Do you have an AOL Instant messenger screenname? If so, please email it to 'kiawah@carspace.com'.
We could do a file transfer thru that, if you have an id.
Thanks again for the files last nite. I borrowed a scanner this morning to see what codes it comes up with. Hoping it will tell me which things to look at first. Will let you know what I find out on it.
The rear bank is harder but can be accessed. I get the wires off then place the extensions in the spark hole one at a time or else you cant get them on the spark plug. My long one first then the shorter extensions.
Thanks in advance.
I need to do 90k service for my camry, most of the dealers are suggesting that I should change the timing belt and water pump along with the service. The price they are quoting are in the range of 1000k - 1300k. Please advise.
Can I do the timing belt , 90k service at mechanic or dealer which one is better. Please note i dont know any mechanic.
Also if you know any good dealer/mechanic who does this for reasoable rates , please let me know. I am located in bellevue, wa.
Is this price quoted by dealer is reasable ?
I don't think a loose solenoid would cause slipping as you describe. It might cause erratic shifting, but I doubt slipping. Did you measure the fuild level before draining it? Condition of fluid and amount of metal attached to the magnets? Slipping like that is either worn bands or clutches, or low pressure caused by a failing pump or bad torque converter, which if driven in that state long enough will damage the trans sufficiently to require a rebuild. You can go by a pressure gauge for $50 or so and connect it up to the pressure port to check if the pressures are in spec.eg: trans pressure tester The only concern with a lot of pressure testers is that most of the fittings are for domestic vehicles, so you may need to source one for the A541E trans.
dmcd
dmcd
To get the CEL (check engine light) off remove the fuse marked STOP, or EFI (electronic fuel inj.) in the engine compartment fuse box for ten seconds with key off.
Look carefully at all of the tubing associated with the evaporation control system. You may find a tube has come off, or a plastic fitting has cracked. I had a mouse (or something) chew thru one of my tubes a couple years ago.
Any one else have that experience and what countermeasures were taken?
Thanks!
Then go out to your car start it, open the hood and spray it on the area where the belts are. On the left side of the engine compartment. Spray it so it hits the inner part of the belt that is going over the pulley. Or spray the pulley where it just get ready to make contact with the belt.