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Comments
You ought to consider however, that at 200K miles you certainly got your moneys worth out of it, and it may not be worth fixing, given at that many miles a number of other things would be expected to be near (or past) end of life. Any money being put into it at this point, may considered throw away money. A lot would depend on the overall condition of the car.
Given the market condition, some great deals can be had on new vehicles which would then give you years of troublefree service, also covered under some long warranties now a days.
The answer to your question is $3600.00 to $5000.00 + installation!
QUESTION: ----- Is your vehicle in good condition to justify this investment?
Best regards. --------- Dwyane :shades:
Mine is a V6 and I have good pics on how to do it. I have to put them on My Carspace page If the hose leaks going into the fan at the radiator, this hose is transmission fluid line.
The car runs fine I can actually see an improvement. But when I took it to a mechanic for some other work they told me I should get oem wires and get rid of the duralast. Something about the engine running high.
I paid 51.00 for the duralast and dealer wants 113.00 I am on a tight budget.
I don't understand the runs high comment. The car is a 4 cylinder and has aways had a jumpy rpm on acceleration. It itles at 500 rpm, and at 40 miles per hour I am at 1200 rpm.At higher speeds it gets as high as 3000 rpm before switching to a higher gear. Should I bother to change these wires?
Maybe in another 10 years. The wires transfer spark to the engine the better the spark the better it runs like you said.
I own a 1993 V6 205K miles, bought used at 185K. Changed a spark plug the other day, because the cylinder had a miss.Still runs like a sewing machine.
as the non oem. But the car now gets to running speed noticably faster. It was worth the extra $42.00 to get OEM wires. Being that this camry has a V4 it needs as much hp as it can get and the nonoem seemed to cut it back. I also noticed how much better the oem wires were physically. As I took the new generic out a boot got stuck in the cylinder. Also the OEM wires were marked with numbers that showed the cylinder they go into. The dust covers also sealed the cylinder much tighter. One last thing they connected to the coil much much easier then the non oem. With those I had to force them on with a screwdriver to get them to click on. But the OEM required no force.
Wires on Camrys are made to fit each cylinder individually I don't know if aftermarkets fit like OEM. You get what you pay for. Performance though, can not be too good when it comes to a part like this. The better the wires the better your engine will run. It seemed the mechanic was making your new wires out to be too good for your engine.
I like to match up the boots from OEM to replacement part, to be sure they fit like OEMs Sounds like you got a better part with dealer. Always do.
However, this past weekend while driving to from DC to West Virginia after 90 minutes of highway driving at speed the temperature gauge indicated the car was overheat once we started to get into the mountains. I am uncertain the car was in fact overheating since the gauge would oscillate between a normal or slightly higher temperature and redlined in the course of 30 seconds, sometimes remain redlined for a minute (still ossilating somewhat), then return to normal for a few minutes before restarting. There were no abnormal odors while this was going on. When I pulled over the water lines were warm, but not hot enough to burn my hand, the radiator fans were on, there was coolant in the reservoir and the car seemed normal but for the gauge.
At that point I turned around and drove home to change vehicles. The car mostly operated at normal temperature the entire ride home doing 70 mph.
Does anyone have thoughts on what might be the cause of this? The vehicle overheated a number of times over the past year, could this have caused damage that would show up with these symptoms?
Sounds like you head gasket got compromised when it initially overheated. This could cause water coolant to be sucked out of the engine and the coolant level to get too low. Low coolant makes the heater feel cold and then hot. The temperature gauge could be oscillating because the water is not there and it starts to measure cooler air trapped inside the engine. Always check the radiator and not the reservoir The reservoir will fill up with coolant from the overheat.
Anytime the gauge fluctuates past normal I immediately turn the heater on pop the hood, turn the key off when clear of the hwy, but leave in unlock, so I can still steer the car, coast to a stop. Then open the hood and hope your parked into a headwind to help cool the engine down.
If that RDI doesn't fix it write back, I'll have you meter out some relays.
Ed
I'm suspicious of the dlr telling you that they are 'false'. Don't you have to have it fixed before it will pass state inspection?
Ed
I believe the NE counties near Cleveland still suffer ECheck.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
now car is having intermittent starting problems,running roughly,with lots of white smoke----any ideas or suggestions?
am too old and broke to buy another car----need to nurse this thing along------open to all responses--celeste
i have a 97 camry and i live in the midwest. We were hit by a rain storm, and thereafter my problems arrose. I drove through a minor flooded area and after that my car seemed to be missfiring and check engine light came on I called up toyota and they recomend, i drive for a few days and it should just go away. I took it to autozone and they scanned it and said the same thing and maybe i would have to just change the spark plugs. 2 days later, the trac off light came on. Now both the check engine, trac off are on...are they both related to the same issue of a "wet engine" ? or totally diff problems. Any help is much appreciated.
With the engine cold, take off the serpentine belt. Now start the car as you would normally do and experience the noise. If the noise is still there, you have ruled out all of the other bolt-ons, and the noise is definitely from your engine (or the water pump).
If the noise disappears, then you could have a bad bearing in say the alternator or tensioner pulley.
Does anyone have any ideas?
How many miles on the vehicle, and what kind of preventive maintenance have you done on this vehicle?
I took the car for a long drive on the freeway, and I noticed the engine started to sound a bit different; the only way to explain this is that it sounded like it was making a higher pitched sound. I also noticed the check oil light started to light up, but only when I was at a red light or stopped.
I figured I better get the car home, but on the way home the engine started to sound worse. Eventually, the engine started making a repeating, very loud clicking sound. The car suddenly stopped running and we pushed it to a local gas station and got it towed home.
The next day, I went out and started the car. It does start, but that very loud clicking sound is still there. I also checked the oil, and noticed the level was about a fingers length past the full line.
Does anyone know what the problem could be? Does it sound like a head gasket issue, since it was recently replaced? I’m hoping for this, because the repair was guaranteed.
Thanks.
Also, twice when my son was driving the car on the expressway, it just stalled out. After waiting 10-15 minutes, the car starts right up and he has no problems. Any ideas on why this would happen? Could it be related to the transmission leak?
Before I sink more money into this car, I want to get some idea on if the "stalling" issue might cost me another +$1000 to get fixed.
It might be time to think about buying a new car and help stimulate the economy. I keep hearing about the great deals that are available.
We have to make a decision this weekend on whether to get the car fixed or buy a new car. Your help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Ryan
You said the transmission gasket is leaking. How much oil is on the driveway? Your leak could be so small it isn't noticeable on the driveway or cause a failure of the transmission. Draining the pan of trans oil, removing the pan, and replacing the gasket is a cure for typical leaks on Toyota's. Only tools required are a 10mm socket and small ratchet. Find a good way to get under the car and its pretty easy.
The stall at highway speed could be a loose wire connector going into the ignition system. On mine, I did a tune-up and put the connector on the ignition but did not click the wire connector into place. It would shut off intermittently.
Ill try and post my change on MyCarSpace Rearwheeldrive 1990 Q-45.
You said your engine started making sounds of oil starvation. Since the oil was full and you had recent engine work done, I think they got the Head-Gasket on upside down. This could block the oil flowing from the top of the engine to the bottom. It must pass through some oil holes made in the gasket. Some gaskets look like they can go on either way but there's always a hole or two that wont line up correctly.
Another test would be to start the engine and run it for a while, then shut the engine off and remove the valve cover. If there is a lot of oil on top of the cylinder head under the valve cover, this is not normal. Or you could shut it off and then check the oil level.
If this is the problem, take it to another shop and ask them to take pictures of the gasket before they removed it. This will document the incorrect repair, if it is wrong. Then I would let them finish the repair correctly, and sue the other shop for a new engine you will probably need later on down the road.
Are you handy with a spark plug socket and tools? I'd would pull the plugs and see which one is not golden brown.
A 99 Camry will have a four cylinder or V6. I hope you have the easier 4 cylinder.
Dual filament bulbs, are used in the front and back of vehicles, where the low wattage filament is a running light that comes on with the headlights, and a higher wattage filament that is turned on when either the brakes are applied (back lights), or a turn signal is turned on (front and back lights on one side).
If one of the filaments in the bulb breaks, and then lays across the other filament, the circuitry between the running lights gets crossed/shorted to the turn signal or brake circuit.
Pull the bulbs on all four corners, and look very closely at the filaments. Personally, bulbs are cheap, so if you go to the effort to pull the covers off and get to the bulbs, just replace them. You can sometimes narrow it down which one to look at by looking VERY carefully at the intensity of each bulb at night, when the running lights are on....and then also look at what happens when the brakes or turn signals are applied. Takes two people to do this.
When you replace the bulb, you have to look very carefully at the two prongs that are on the sides of the brass base. They are a different length from the base end, one closer to the base end than the other. If you look in the socket, you will see two corresponding grooves, one goes in deeper than the other. You need to get the bulb in correctly, or else the wrong filament lights up (for instance, the bright filament might turn on with the running lights, and the dim filament with the brake lights....obviously a wrong condition).
Rex
Thank you for your help
The symptoms you are experiencing are what? Car overheats (only in stop and go driving), and you notice that neither of the cooling fans turns on......even when the a/c is on? Is that correct?
What is the significance/purpose of this question:
"which relay is just the rad fan on the drivers side"
Is that to mean that the drivers side fan does not work, but the other one does?
So does this explain enough, or is it more confusing? I wish I just had enough money to go have it taken care of, but I don't. So, I press on to the answer, hopefully. Thanks :confuse:
In the meantime, did you check your fuses? I'd suspect a fuse first. If your owners manual doesn't tell you which one, I'll look it up and tell you later this week.
You have a 4 cylinder, correct?
First step....
There are three fuses feeding this circuitry. You need to check all three to verify that they are okay.
- 15A ECU-IG This is in the passenger compartment, drivers left knee
- 30A RDI FAN These next two, are in the engine compartment, on the passenger side wheel well, up towards the front by the headlight. These two fuses sit between the raidator relay and the engine main relay.
- 30A CDS Fan
Let me know whether you find any of them an open circuit.
Also, verify that your turn signals and wipers work.
Thank you for that info, the wipers and the turn signals work. I think the a/c fan motor may be burnt out. I did a direct power feed to it and nothing. The other one too. Maybe I did it wrong. So I will check the fuses as you say. Tomorrow I will let you know what if anything is good or bad.
Thank you,
Deborah
But yes, applying the power directly to the motor is a good way to test that the motors are okay. One of the wires to the motor goes to +positive 12volts, and the other to -engine ground.
The way this circuitry is built with the relays, the fan motors will either run at half speed or full speed. But ignore that for now. When you test the motors by applying the voltage directly to them the way described above, they should run at full speed.
If you have a relay not working you can pull it and apply a 9v battery to the in and out terminals, the diagram is usuallyon the side. However it should click if you turn the A/C on with the key in the run position I believe thats how it works. It energizes all relays when A/C is on. Since none of the positions are working it sounds like the fan motor on the radiator.
Also if you can get to a pull your own parts at a junk yard, you can swap out relay's, no troubleshooting involved, or just replace the motor on the Radiator. I think that's the problem. Use some jumper cables and connect it to the Radiator motor when you get it off your car, to verify working like in the post before.
- IF Ignition is ON 'and' AC Pressure is low 'and' coolant temperature is low, then relay 1 is energized (Norm Closed points), and the Radiator fan is OFF.
- IF Ignition is ON 'and' either the AC Pressure is high 'or' the coolant temperature is high, then relay 1 is not energized, and the Radiator fan is ON full speed, getting it's power from the RDI Radiator Fuse.
- IF Ignition is ON 'and' the AC is ON 'and' the AC pressure is low 'and' the coolant temperature is high, then relays 1/2/3 are all energized, and both fans will work at low speed (fans wired in series) getting their power from the CDS Fan fuse.
- IF Ignition is ON 'and' the AC is ON 'and' the AC pressure is high 'and' the coolant temperature is high, then relays 1/2 are not energized, and both fans run at full speed. The Radiator fan gets it's power from the RDI fan fuse, and the AC condenser fan motor gets it's power from the CDS fuse.